alternator packed up

[ayup]

looks like the alternator may have packed up , for a couple of days now when i started it it seemed to turn over a bit slower but still started until this morning when it started but then died and wouldnt even spin a little bit but 5 minutes before the power steering went with the dash light coming on also the abs light is this a normal focus thing when the battery is drained or low on juice , i have yet to put my multi meter on it while it's running to check to see if the alternator is actually chucking out any charge but i tested the battery and it was pretty low 11 volt , hopefully it's just a case of a new battery because as i gather changing the alternator on a focus is a bit of a pain in the back side so if anyone else has had the same symptoms as i've described i'd be intrested to know , thanks.

forgot to mention i plugged my code reader in but didnt come up with any codes

Edited November 4, 2016 by ayup
forgot to add something

[ayup]

am i right in saying the power steering runs off the alternator belt because what i'm thinking is all thats happened is there is a bit of slack in the belt hence why the power steering kept coming and going so hopefully it'll just be a tenner orso for a new belt , but i'm just putting a bit of charge in the battery at the minute as it's as dead as a dodo

[m1tch]

2 hours ago, ayup said:

looks like the alternator may have packed up , for a couple of days now when i started it it seemed to turn over a bit slower but still started until this morning when it started but then died and wouldnt even spin a little bit but 5 minutes before the power steering went with the dash light coming on also the abs light is this a normal focus thing when the battery is drained or low on juice , i have yet to put my multi meter on it while it's running to check to see if the alternator is actually chucking out any charge but i tested the battery and it was pretty low 11 volt , hopefully it's just a case of a new battery because as i gather changing the alternator on a focus is a bit of a pain in the back side so if anyone else has had the same symptoms as i've described i'd be intrested to know , thanks.

forgot to mention i plugged my code reader in but didnt come up with any codes

WIth the engine running and the voltages being supplied to the battery less than around 13v then the alternator has gone, replacing the battery won't help. If there is 13v being supplied to the battery when the engine is running but without the engine running the battery is below 12v then the battery isn't holding the charge.

[ayup]

i'll be checking the voltages in a little while mate , i want to put a bit of life in the battery so it'll at least start it

[leesheffield1]

I recently had a dead battery and thought it could be alternator.  Thankfully mine was just the battery... Or I'm hoping so. Wouldn't start each morning so had to bump start down hill to get it going. Occasionally battery would keep enough charge so thought of alternator.  Each time it would throw up loads of error codes in reader and have been told this is normal when battery is flat cos instrument panel and ecu doesn't know what's going on so throws up codes. Touch wood since changing battery i haven't had any issues at all. Hope for your sake too it's just battery or slipping belt as above 

[m1tch]

18 minutes ago, ayup said:

i'll be checking the voltages in a little while mate , i want to put a bit of life in the battery so it'll at least start it

Cool - main indicator will be the voltage when the engine is running.

[isetta]

as the weather gets colder more batteries will die. when it is warmer weather batteries that are on their way out sometimes hang on by a thread and keep going but the colder weather shows up the failing battery. The battery works by chemical reaction (or something like that) inside it. That reaction slows down with colder weather. Add to that the need for more power to start engines in cold weather because the engine and gearbox oil is thicker and causing more drag. (putting your foot on the clutch helps as it reduces drag by the thick gearbox oil).

Anyway, for those without a voltmeter, you can usually tell if your alternator is doing something by - with engine running on tickover, turn loads of electric stuff on - headlights, heated rear window, heater fan, quickclear windscreen. If you then raise the engine speed slightly you should see the headlights go brighter.  I know it's not scientific but if the lights go brighter then it does prove the alternator is not 100% dead

[ayup]

just checked the voltages and the battery appears to be holding charge at 12.9v and with the engine running the alternator output measured at the battery terminals is 14.39v and with all the lights , air con , radio etc on it's a pretty constant reading do these figures seem about right , from what i gather they are pretty healthy

[Tdci-Peter]

6 hours ago, ayup said:

the battery appears to be holding charge at 12.9v and with the engine running the alternator output measured at the battery terminals is 14.39v and with all the lights

Those figures sound just right. 14.4v engine idling with headlights on is good, 12.9v engine off, after standing for a few hours, is also good. (The 11v you mentioned at the start seems a bit out, could there be some intermittent problem)

If you are still getting sluggish or no starts, check the thick wiring from battery (-ve to the engine and +ve to starter motor). Look for loose or corroded connections, and feel the wire as it goes into the crimp terminals, if it feels loose or weak, there could be a bad joint.

Then check the battery voltage while cranking, it should not dip below about 9v on a warm start, or 7.5v on a cold start. (It is possible for a battery to look ok in normal use, but not deliver starting current).

Then it is starter solenoid or starter motor.