2 hours ago, TomsFocus said:

Disasters are the best way of learning...you only make major disasters once!!

We're all still learning though, I'm always interested in new/different cars and engines, and how the technology moves on etc.  Makes me wonder how people ever fixed anything before the internet...

 

aye but back in the day the most complicated part of a car was a distributor! Most problems could be fixed with a hammer and some WD40 😄

 

1 hour ago, Albert27 said:

Ok so I've found the hole!  However the 12mm bolt i bought I cannot get in the hole to lock but a 10mm drill bit i can get to lock.  I'm waiting on my Dad to see if he has a 12mm drill bit.  Quick question though.  Could i just use a 10mm or 11mm drill bit if I don't have the 12?  Does a bit of play matter?

Be aware that the hole and timing pin are only used to check the allignment of the crankshaft during the timing belt change. Never apply any force to the timing pin. This can cause the pin to bend or break pr even worse.

After the crankshaft is in the correct position and the timing pin is inserted the crankshaft must be locked with a suitible flywheel locking tool. After the starter motor is removed the flywheel locking tool can be installed.

1 hour ago, JW1982 said:

Be aware that the hole and timing pin are only used to check the allignment of the crankshaft during the timing belt change. Never apply any force to the timing pin. This can cause the pin to bend or break pr even worse.

I'm working on the mk2.5 with this one.  You have to lock the flywheel to undo the crank pulley bolt, so it must be able to withstand some force?  I'm just wondering if i can use a marginally smaller drill bit/timing pin without causing an issue.

the 2.5 has the flywheel locking PIN that slots in to the hole as per the picture. dont attempt t unlock the crank bolt off the crank locking pin. 

That flywheel locking pin is a monster, it wont snap, just make sure its fully engaged.

10 hours ago, Albert27 said:

I'm working on the mk2.5 with this one.  You have to lock the flywheel to undo the crank pulley bolt, so it must be able to withstand some force?  I'm just wondering if i can use a marginally smaller drill bit/timing pin without causing an issue.

For once, Wilco is incorrect here! 😮 

As this 12mm lock is purely to hold the engine for crank bolt removal and nothing at all to do with timing, you can use a slightly smaller bolt as long as it fits fairly well.  Don't go too small or it could bend and drop inside the gearbox lol.

 

Ford specifically prescribes to lock the crankshaft with the flywheel locking tool and NOT with the 12 mm pin.

The flywheel locking tool is also included in the list of special tools that are needed to change the timing belt on the 8 -valve 1.6 TDCI that is used in the Focus MK3.
 

If interested I can make a screenshot of this information shown in Etis.

Removal      Crankshaft pulley retaining bolt

1. NOTE: Do not discard the old crankshaft pulley bolt.

   Using a suitable power tool remove the crankshaft pulley bolt.                                      

   Crankshaft pulley refit

1. NOTICE: Make sure the special tool engages correctly.

   NOTE: Only rotate the crankshaft in the normal direction of rotation.

   Using the special tool, lock the flywheel.

   • Rotate the crankshaft until the special tool aligns with one of the slots in the flywheel.

1.  

   

    

2. NOTE: Install a new crankshaft pulley retaining bolt.

   Install the crankshaft pulley.

   • Tighten the crankshaft pulley bolt in two stages.
   • Stage 1: 30 Nm.
   • Stage 2: 180 degrees.

1.  

   

    

3. Remove the special tool.

1.  

   
1. This is applicable on MK2/2.5
1. Mk3 as Wilko and me said a flywheel locking tool as per the photo required Wilko posted up 

Arh !!! The images didn't load up.

My phone playing up now. 

 

Tbh, I'm a bit confused.......!

1 hour ago, Albert27 said:

Tbh, I'm a bit confused.......!

And your point is? Lol 

If I wasn't up to my neck in copper pipe, plasterboard, tiles redoing my unsuite , I would offer to help you at the weekend(well, supervise! Ha ha) 

53 minutes ago, iantt said:

And your point is? Lol 

If I wasn't up to my neck in copper pipe, plasterboard, tiles redoing my unsuite , I would offer to help you at the weekend(well, supervise! Ha ha) 

I'm usually confused when it comes to new tasks on the car lol ....

Right, crank pulley bolt is off, used 10mm drill bit and breaker bar.  

I take it the fuel lines that are in the way of the upper timing case can be popped off and left off?  Do i need to worry about letting  air in?

Also, why can i turn the crank when the car is in gear?  Made no difference when it was in or out of gear.

Fuel lines don't need to be opened.  Just risks getting dirt in the lines if you do and air will enter the system so you'd need to prime it afterwards.  They just need to popped out of the securing clips iirc.  

The crank will still turn if you're in gear, but it should take more effort as you're turning the gearbox and a wheel as well.  You might not have been fully in gear, or in a high gear (4th/5th) if there was no difference felt.

12 hours ago, TomsFocus said:

Fuel lines don't need to be opened.  Just risks getting dirt in the lines if you do and air will enter the system so you'd need to prime it afterwards.  They just need to popped out of the securing clips iirc.  

The crank will still turn if you're in gear, but it should take more effort as you're turning the gearbox and a wheel as well.  You might not have been fully in gear, or in a high gear (4th/5th) if there was no difference felt.

Spot on Tom.  Just unclipped  them down nearer the crank and popped them off the top clips so gave me enough room.

Thanks for all the help everyone.  I'll keep you posted; I drained the coolant and removed the upper timing cover today. Got my first view of the timing belt!  Lower timing belt cover tomorrow & crank sensor and guide then belt replacement over the weekend in one go (I hope), then finish off early next week.  That's the plan oh and in between a bit of World Cup football!

I did the job on a fiesta 1.6tdci. I found a bolt laying around in my garage which was just slightly too big to go in the hole so I ground it down just enough on my bench grinder. I also had to cut a small amount off one side of the the head of the bolt with a hacksaw. 

It might sound scary to people doing the timing belt but on these engines (1.6tdci) it is a hell of a lot easier than on the 1.6 petrol twincam because on the 1.6tdci it has the pulley keyed to the crankshaft wheras on the petrol it is not keyed so you could go disasterously wrong quite easily.

Also on the 1.6tdci twin cam (they were twin cam before ford changed it to single cam), the belt only goes round one of the cams (the 2nd cam is driven by a chain off the first cam and you don't need to touch that or even see it when doing the belt).

For a modern car these 1.6tdci are relatively easy to do the belt on.  The most difficult bit for me was tensioning the belt.  Not a lot of space there on the fiesta and you really needed a mirror to see the pointer on the tensioner and then the adjustment keeps moving when doing the bolt up tight. 

Also (some people will think I am mad) I sawed the timing belt cover in half so that if I needed to gain access to inspect water pump etc I could get to it without taking the crankshaft pulley off. 

 

Update: when I typed the above I did not realise there were two pages of posts, I had only read the first page.

Ok guys I've hit a bit of a snag.  The fuel pump will not line up with it's timing hole.  I''ve roatated the engine 10 - 12 times and checked each time and I am certain it's out. Cam and crank line up perfect every other rotation.  What's happened here?  And how do i deal with this?  Has whoever did the last belt change not bothered pinning the fuel pump perhaps.  That's all i can think of.  @iantt   @TomsFocus  your help is much needed!

I can't remember how many revolutions the fuel pump does compared to the crank, I'd turn it another few times just in case you've mis-counted.  If the pump was lined up when you started and the cam and crank are still in sync, there isn't really any way the fuel pump could be wrong.

31 minutes ago, TomsFocus said:

I can't remember how many revolutions the fuel pump does compared to the crank, I'd turn it another few times just in case you've mis-counted.  If the pump was lined up when you started and the cam and crank are still in sync, there isn't really any way the fuel pump could be wrong.

The old belt is still on and everything is in place. When I originally mentioned I'd got it all lined up I'd made a mistake.  Before undoing anything for today's session i double checked the cam and crank pins and was happy they were in and snug.  It was when i came to the Fuel pump that i realised it was not in the timing hole and from then no matter how many revolutions i did, still wouldn't line up.  I will triple check tomorrow...... but if it was wrong in the first place, the car's been fine....how would i then go about doing the job?  Would just using tippex suffice?

is the fuel pump required to be locked? not all that sure it is...

5 minutes ago, Dee_82 said:

is the fuel pump required to be locked? not all that sure it is...

From speaking with Tom, it seems no one is sure why the fuel pump is part of the timing locking.....but i need to be 100% sure before i chance it...

well, here is what you do know, despite yours not matching up to the cam and crank holes with the belt in place. Ours did. Which suggests that its more likely your fuel pump sprocket hasn't been properly aligned.... you had any problems? 

15 minutes ago, Dee_82 said:

well, here is what you do know, despite yours not matching up to the cam and crank holes with the belt in place. Ours did. Which suggests that its more likely your fuel pump sprocket hasn't been properly aligned.... you had any problems? 

It's either that or the last belt change was done with someone not locking the Fuel pump hence why it's out.  What would be the symptoms of a bad alignment on the fuel pump sprocket?  But if as you say it doesn't need to be locked would there even be any symptoms?

Trust me to have this issue....! 😁 It was all going so well......

its no issue, you can potentialy can have the pump any where you like and it will run ok. just line the crank and cam up and insert pins. belt off, then turn fuel pump so the pump alignment pin can be inserted. belt and tensioner on. 

the mk3 1.6tdci doesnt have a fuel pump alignment pin, so can be anywhere. 

9 hours ago, iantt said:

its no issue, you can potentialy can have the pump any where you like and it will run ok. just line the crank and cam up and insert pins. belt off, then turn fuel pump so the pump alignment pin can be inserted. belt and tensioner on. 

the mk3 1.6tdci doesnt have a fuel pump alignment pin, so can be anywhere. 

Thanks Ian.  Back on it later so will do as you've said.  Any idea why they bothered with a timing hole on the Fuel pump?