Ah, could this be the reason Forscan won't run the static regeneration service?
If so, it may have been bust for some time 😦

BTW, will this type of thing do with a couple of jubilee clips ? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/6mm-1-4-RUBBER-PETROL-DIESEL-FUEL-OIL-PIPE-HOSE-/120375098102?hash=item1c06ea3af6#vi-ilComp

34 minutes ago, Lewie said:

Ah, could this be the reason Forscan won't run the static regeneration service?
If so, it may have been bust for some time 😦

BTW, will this type of thing do with a couple of jubilee clips ? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/6mm-1-4-RUBBER-PETROL-DIESEL-FUEL-OIL-PIPE-HOSE-/120375098102?hash=item1c06ea3af6#vi-ilComp

Yep, it won't risk a regen because it thinks the DPF is empty currently. 

Yeah that pipe should work fine.  It doesn't really need to be fuel rated though, vacuum piping should be good enough but if that's cheaper I'd have no problem using it for this.

Had a closer inspection.
Not sure if we are on the same model engine but I can't see how to get to the broken end without some dismantling.

I have rubber hoses running past the sensor on the battery then the two braided hoses attach to them, see picture. 
The pipe with the white band is the one broken the larger of the two, must be the 8mm one.
The braided hoses then run down pretty mush central behind the radiator and under the metal pipe in the second picture.
No room to get hands in.   

Started the job.
No chance of getting to the pipes without removing that thick steel pipe.
My air box was held on with four bolts.
I removed the whole air filter box to give me greater access. Air filter was a bit of a sate, purchased new one.
Phoned a car spares, they told me to be careful what tubing I use as they are under high pressure?
Doesn't make sense as the 6mm didn't even have a clip on it DPF end and the 8mm only had a squeeze together clip so if they were under high pressure they would have popped off.
Next place I phoned had never heard of a car having a Eolys oil tank.
Whatever is the matter with these places? When I was youngster the car spares guys new their trade.
Any way, I went to the shop and bought a 6mm 1m and a 8mm 1m, just over a fiver each, well thick braided pipe which came with clips.
I took the old heat covers off the old pipes and pushed them over the new pipes to give added protection.
Used my bear hands to squeeze them over the thicker new pipes. Wish I hadn't as now it feels like I have a thousand needles in my hands!!
I have finally attached the new pipes to the DPF end and by then I'd had enough.
Round two tomorrow.

 

Crikey, you got on with that quickly!

The top end up the the sensor is the easy bit.

 

Ha! Easy? Only if I put it all back together methodically. 
So many times I've 'finished' a job only to realise I've left something out/threaded the pipe wrong etc. Start again.
Thus I've learnt to down tools when the concentration lacks.
I have removed the sensor.
One bolt, makes access so much easier.
If this all works out it will be down to teamwork.
You and Peter between you have helped immensely.

35 minutes ago, Lewie said:

Easy? Only if I put it all back together methodically. 
So many times I've 'finished' a job only to realise I've left something out/threaded the pipe wrong etc.

You are not the only one there! Putting stuff back in in the right order can make so much difference. When I repaired my cluster, which was very difficult to remove intact, I put it all back together very carefully, and just popped it back in to its location, when I saw a bit left over. The stalk to reset the trip counter! It all had to be prised very carefully out again to put the stalk back in.

But I have seen this thread go from "what is this graph stuff" on Friday, to a graph of the car running clearly showing a duff DP reading, to where is the DPF & Sensor, to almost re-piping the DP system, by Tuesday. Good going.

That Dis_Ashfull PID can go both up and down, using some internal "logic" that defies any rational explanation. So it may improve if the DP sensor enables some regens to take place.

 

Well well.
Reconnecting that pipe has really put the cat amongst the pigeons.
Went for a drive to do a new graph. All was going well until engine malfunction warning.
This time it lost power, never had that before. 
Also, the warning comes on when the ignition is turned on, before it didn't come on until the engine was running.
I can only assume that now the pipe is reconnected the sensors can actually read the whole story.
Below is the latest array of 'faults' and my latest graph.
One positive, the DP DDF has sign of life, oh the joy!!
Oh yes, and the DPF regen tool wont even start now, it's not a happy bunny.
 

===PCM DTC P2002-21===
Code: P2002 - Particle Filter Efficiency Below Threshold

Additional Fault Symptom:
 - Signal is Above Maximum Threshold

Status: 
 - Previously Set DTC - Not Present at Time of Request
 - Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC

Module: Powertrain Control Module

Diagnostic Trouble Code details

Particulate Trap Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1)

This DTC may be caused by :

Absense Of Particle Filter

Delta Pressure Sensor Hoses Incorrectly Fitted Or Damaged

Restriction/blockage in air intake system.

Check the following:

Check that the differential pressure sensor and hoses are intact and not blocked.

Check The Filter Is Fitted

===END PCM DTC P2002-21===

===PCM DTC P0113-21===
Code: P0113 - IAT Sensor Circuit High Input

Additional Fault Symptom:
 - Signal is Above Maximum Threshold

Status: 
 - Previously Set DTC - Not Present at Time of Request
 - Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC

Module: Powertrain Control Module

Diagnostic Trouble Code details

IAT Sensor Circuit High Input

This DTC may be caused by :

Damaged or contaminated connector

IAT sensor / wiring

Short circuit in wiring or component.

Signal circuit shorted to VBATT.

Short to VREF.

Incorrect VREF.

Sensor Previously disconnected.

Check for MAF related DTCs.

For further diagnostic information refer to the appropriate section of eTIS.

===END PCM DTC P0113-21===

===PCM DTC P2458-21===
Code: P2458 - Diesel Particulate Filter Regeneration Duration

Additional Fault Symptom:
 - Signal is Above Maximum Threshold

Status: 
 - Previously Set DTC - Not Present at Time of Request
 - Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC

Module: Powertrain Control Module

Diagnostic Trouble Code details

Diesel Particulate Filter Regeneration Duration

This DTC may be caused by :

Over Charged Filter

Check the following:

Check that the differential pressure sensor and hoses are intact and not blocked.

Check that the pre and post-catalyst temperature sensors are operating correctly.

Check the air intake system for leaks, blockages and correct operation.

If any of the DPF or related components are renewed, perform the DPF service functions.

Check the PCM for the latest calibration.

Perform a manual regeneration of the DPF system.

Re-run the test again to ensure the fault has been fixed.

===END PCM DTC P2458-21===

===PCM DTC P242F-61===
Code: P242F - Diesel Particulate Filter Restriction - Ash Accumulation

Additional Fault Symptom:
 - Signal is Above Maximum Threshold

Status: 
 - DTC Present at Time of Request
 - Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC

Module: Powertrain Control Module

Diagnostic Trouble Code details

Diesel Particulate Filter Restriction - Ash Accumulation

This DTC may be caused by :

Early life blocked filters are caused by a failure to regenerate.

If any other DTCs are present address these first.

EGR valve stuck in the open position.

Restriction/blockage in air intake system.

There is a blocked DPF.

The vehicle will be in LOS.

Check the following:

Check that the differential pressure sensor and hoses are intact and not blocked.

Check that the pre and post-catalyst temperature sensors are operating correctly.

Check the air intake system for leaks, blockages and correct operation.

If any of the DPF or related components are renewed, perform the DPF service functions.

Check the PCM for the latest calibration.

Perform a manual regeneration of the DPF system.

Re-run the test again to ensure the fault has been fixed.

===END PCM DTC P242F-61===

===FACM DTC None===
Successful DTC reading, no error codes found

Module: Fuel Additive Control Module

===END FACM DTC None===

===ABS DTC None===
Successful DTC reading, no error codes found

Module: Antilock braking system

===END ABS DTC None===

===EPS DTC U1900-20===
Code: U1900 - Missing Message for Engine Speed

Status: 
 - Previously Set DTC - Not Present at Time of Request
 - Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC

Module: Electronic-Controlled Power Steering

Diagnostic Trouble Code details

CAN Communication Bus Fault (missing messages)

Possible causes are:

Missing Message for Engine Speed

Engine RPM Data Invalid

Vehicle Speed Data Invalid

Check CAN Wiring/CAN Network is functioning.

Note:

DTCs that start with 'U' are faults which occur during module-to-module communication.

Modules should never be replaced based only on a 'U' code. These codes do not always indicate a problem, and can be caused by normal diagnostic functions, carried out on the vehicle.

===END EPS DTC U1900-20===

===IC DTC U1900-20===
Code: U1900 - CAN communication bus fault

Status: 
 - Previously Set DTC - Not Present at Time of Request
 - Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC

Module: Instrument Cluster

Diagnostic Trouble Code details

CAN Communication Bus Fault - Receive Error

Note:

DTCs that start with 'U' are faults which occur during module-to-module communication.

Modules should never be replaced based only on a 'U' code. These codes do not always indicate a problem, and can be caused by normal diagnostic functions, carried out on the vehicle.

===END IC DTC U1900-20===

===RCM DTC None===
Successful DTC reading, no error codes found

Module: Restraint Control Module

===END RCM DTC None===

===ACM DTC None===
Successful DTC reading, no error codes found

Module: Audio Control Module

===END ACM DTC None===

===GEM DTC None===
Successful DTC reading, no error codes found

Module: Generic Electronic Module

===END GEM DTC None===

I have tried resetting all codes.
The only one that will not clear is the ash accumulation PCM P242F-61 code which I assume is the one causing the limp mode and engine malfunction alarm?
Edit: Inow also have a strange squealing/screeching noise when I turn the engine off.
It's in the region of the DPF along with a regular loud clicking somewhere near the EGR (but can't pinpoint it) 
Then all the noises stop after a sort of phfff noise.
Confused? Me too.
I've also tried removing the 8mm pipe from the sensor by the battery to try and put it back as it was when the pipe was broken and clear the code but no joy.

1 hour ago, Lewie said:

Also, the warning comes on when the ignition is turned on, before it didn't come on until the engine was running.
I can only assume that now the pipe is reconnected the sensors can actually read the whole story.
Below is the latest array of 'faults' and my latest graph.

Most of the errors may be down to the work done, the IAT is part of the MAF, if the ignition is turned on without the MAF connected (airbox off), it will appear.

But P242F is not what I hoped for. . There is a trick to clearing 242F, that works on some cars. Disconnect the MAF, start the engine, then stop it. Re-read the codes with MAF & IAT errors,  re-connect the MAF, clear the codes, and this time 242F may clear.

See:

http://forscan.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=247
This is a bit of a long post, but the reset trick is about 1/4 of the way down.

But it is like a bad penny, it usually comes back. Like you say, it seems to think the DP is too high. Looking at the graph, it seems to peak at 5kPa, for a peak RPM of 1905. This sounds a little high to me, but not huge. Tom would know more, he had a 1.6 for a few years. The idle DP seems to be 0.6, though it is hard to see. Again, maybe a little high. But there is a lag in the signal, it takes some 8 seconds to drop down after the revs drop. That suggests to me that one of the pipes may be almost blocked. It should be possible to easily blow through both pipes from the sensor end, they just go straight into the exhaust, one each side of the DPF element.

So before condemning the DPF, or the car, or resorting to drastic measures like washing the DPF, a bit more testing of the sensor and its connecting pipes may be worth while.

It is possible that the loading in the DPF is soot rather than ash, as it may have been a long time since the last regen. If the soot load is too high, I think it may refuse to do a regen, as it can overheat the DPF element. Also it can not tell the difference between soot and ash. (soot can be burnt, ash can not.) Some cleaning operations can remove soot. Or several partial forced regens with the DP sensor disconnected once more, maybe.

 

That's a very interesting post Peter.
Sounds spot on my grief.
I'm beginning to to think removal and clean is the only way unless the error can appear for another reason but as it's happened as soon as the DPF is connected properly it would be a bit of a coincidence if it was a stuck EGR or some other problem.
Looking at the old pipe it has been disconnected for some time. It was so brittle it just crumbled in my fingers.
I could certainly attempt the removal (two bolts seem to be the sticking point for most) but I'm concerned about the strange noises I mentioned in my previous post.
If there is yet another problem after cleaning then it may be time to get a different car.
I don't like being defeated but there must come a time.........................................

Edit: I tried the MAF clearing codes trick,it worked, cheers.
Tried a static regeneration, it completed it successfully but the engine malfunction came on juts befor it finished and showed the error code again.
I've cleared the codes again and may try a good old blast but I've read some have tried this but the error kicks in at about 60mph.

Right.
Been out and did some 60mph in third.
Was a tad lumpy
Drove for around 25 mins along dual carriageways keeping just about below the 60mph.
For the last few miles I gave it a damn good thrashing in proper gears.
The code didn't return.
So now I'm even more confused. I guess it's a waiting game? New graph below, any new clues?

At least one issue is fixed, nice one!

Sadly the DPF may have been unable to regen for so long that it's beyond simple regenerating now.  Peak of 22kPa is way higher than mine ever got to.

It will just be a bit of waiting now, to see if it does manage to clear itself or whether it'll need to be removed and either cleaned or replaced.

Also the clicks after shut-off are nothing to worry about, that's the EGR self test, they all do it.

 

8 hours ago, Lewie said:

Inow also have a strange squealing/screeching noise when I turn the engine off.
It's in the region of the DPF along with a regular loud clicking somewhere near the EGR (but can't pinpoint it) 
Then all the noises stop after a sort of phfff noise.

As Tom says, it is normal for the ECU to test or exercise some bits of kit like EGR just after engine off. My 1.8 tests the EGR too, for about 4 sec then it all shuts down with a clunk. It seems to do something to the turbo actuator too.

It could be it is now doing this to some other bit of kit also, maybe one of the throttle valves, that it was not before. It should not really squeal, but if it has not been used for a while? There is an inlet throttle valve at the front of the engine where the air hose comes up from the intercooler, and on some 1.6s there is an intercooler by-pass valve next to it. 

I have tried to compare your DP signals with another one, here is a plot from another car:

At first glance the DP signal looked much sharper than yours, but then I saw it was on 1:10 zoom, and the slopes on the DP curve could be about 5 to 10 seconds long. That trace is from here:

Paul had problems with one of the throttle valves, then got P2458, then removed the DPF & washed it with water (I did not recommend this!), and it did seem to improve. But I have a feeling that in most cases where the DPF is washed like this, the improvement is short term. Though none of the posts I have read about it give any long term feedback to confirm or deny this!

So I would suggest trying to wait for a few normal active regens, or doing more forced regens, to try to see if the problem is just burnable soot. If it really is unburnable soot (formed with no Eolys additive), or ash, then more drastic action would be needed.

 

10 hours ago, Tdci-Peter said:

It could be it is now doing this to some other bit of kit also, maybe one of the throttle valves, that it was not before. It should not really squeal, but if it has not been used for a while? There is an inlet throttle valve at the front of the engine where the air hose comes up from the intercooler, and on some 1.6s there is an intercooler by-pass valve next to it. 

 

The squeal is normal on the 1.6 as well, though I'd describe it as an electrical whine rather than a squeal.  I think it's one of the solenoids.

Ha. Tom, 'squeal' is probably me getting a bit paranoid as I've never had my head under the bonnet so long. 
Never heard such a cafuffle for a engine to go to sleep.
When I was a youngster I used to take the cylinder head off my car (Humber Sceptre 1725 twin carb with overdrive) just to have a look.
These things are way too complicated.
How often do these beasts do active regens and does it harm to force regens?
So is the DPF kpa reading the pressure it is taking to force through the DPF?
Lower the better?

2 minutes ago, Lewie said:

So is the DPF kpa reading the pressure it is taking to force through the DPF?
Lower the better?

Yes, DP means differential pressure, or difference in pressure between inlet and outlet of the filter. Low is better, as long as it is within what the ECU expects, ie not zero or negative! I imagine the ECU expects to see it rise when airflow rises too. If it is way out of bounds (low or high), then it may trigger an error.

I have seen a lot of posts about how often they regen, there is a whole thread on it:

But I have not seen any real explanation of it. It does depend on blockage, but not in any simple, obvious way. I work with pressure & flow, and manufacture industrial DP transducers. I have been looking at threads on the DPF systems for a couple of years, out of professional and personal interest, but the fine details of the algorithms used remain a mystery.

Forced regens are noisy, waste fuel, and may contribute eventually to engine wear, but I know of no more serious downsides.

 

2 hours ago, Lewie said:

Ha. Tom, 'squeal' is probably me getting a bit paranoid as I've never had my head under the bonnet so long. 
Never heard such a cafuffle for a engine to go to sleep.
When I was a youngster I used to take the cylinder head off my car (Humber Sceptre 1725 twin carb with overdrive) just to have a look.
These things are way too complicated.
How often do these beasts do active regens and does it harm to force regens?
So is the DPF kpa reading the pressure it is taking to force through the DPF?
Lower the better?

Lol, most modern cars do various tests after switch off creating lots of random noises. My Golf has an interesting one, sounds like someone slurping the dregs of a drink after switch off!   

As Peter says, there is no hard proof for the triggers of regens on these cars, I spent ages looking into it back when I was killing DPFs (2014/15!) but never could find any hard proof.  They seem to start at the most ridiculous times as well, short town journeys usually!  They should regen every 500 miles as a failsafe (ECU was updated to do this after many clogged DPFs on the earliest ones) but with a lot of short cold journeys they could be happening at half that mileage.

Forced regens create a lot of heat under the bonnet which is the main concern...it's potentially one of the things that contributes to carbon blockages in the turbo oil feed pipe...which is run right next the 600c DPF so it cooks the oil in the pipe during regen...amazing idea that is!  

Well Peter, let me help you with those algorithms, BLAHHHHHH!!!!!🤡
That said, I am learning quite a bit as we go along.
That high reading from my previous graph of 22 kPa was taken when I was in third gear, 3,500 revs, 60mph so I'm assuming this would have an effect>
This was my attempt to blow any blowable cobwebs away, no idea if it did any good.
I've been out again for a good 25-30 mile trip.
I did the third gear thing again and the highest reading I got throughout the journey was 14.3 kPa.
I'm guessing this may be a good sign?
It doesn't look as though I can do much else but drive it as is and see what happens. 

Tom, this attempt by the powers that be to reduce emissions is causing untold grief.

Nowt but a scam that's creating more waste and scrap than ever.

The differential pressure is directly related to how much air the engine is getting through, so the highest DP will occur when at maximum torque under load, 3rd gear uphill at about 3k rpm is a good test.  The more soot that's burnt off, the less pressure differential there will be.  So if that 14kpa is under roughly the same conditions as the 22kPa then that's definitely an improvement.  

It's not really a scam as such, particulates are dangerous and cause cancer among other things...a good working DPF massively reduces them.  However, the system is far from ideal currently and it ends up being the second hand customers paying for it.

 

The two third gear tests were both done on a pretty much flat dual carriageway so very similar circumstances.
Hopefully it was just soot.
We have only done mainly short journeys but on the other hand very few miles overall so perhaps not enough to clog the DPF.
We shall see.
As for the 'scam', I agree, a DPF may well reduce the particulates but in the grand scheme of things it's a nothing.
The amount of waste and scrap that has been produced from the 'petrol is best, that's why you have to pay more for diesel' then 'diesel is cleaner than petrol so that's why petrol is dearer' then back we go to 'diesel is filthy so you have to pay a premium'.
Just think how many folk changed vehicles on the say so of 'experts'.
They could halve air pollution within 6 months if they really wanted to but money talks.
Rant over. 🤐

I'm back.
I wanted to do a good run before updating.
I've been to Wales doing around 350 miles round trip.
Came back and rescanned.
I expected errors and got 6.
 

===PCM DTC U0073-21===
Code: U0073 - CAN communication bus fault

Additional Fault Symptom:
 - Signal is Above Maximum Threshold

Status: 
 - Previously Set DTC - Not Present at Time of Request
 - Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC

Module: Powertrain Control Module

Diagnostic Trouble Code details

CAN communication bus fault

Possible causes :

CAN Communication Bus Fault (missing messages)

CAN Bus Off - Transmit Error

CAN Controller Circuit (Bus off)

CAN message(s) could not be transmitted.

===END PCM DTC U0073-21===

===PCM DTC U0416-28===
Code: U0416 - Invalid Data Received from the ABS Control Module

Additional Fault Symptom:
 - Invalid Signal

Status: 
 - Previously Set DTC - Not Present at Time of Request
 - Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC

Module: Powertrain Control Module

Diagnostic Trouble Code details

Invalid Data Received from the ABS Control Module

===END PCM DTC U0416-28===

===PCM DTC P2458-21===
Code: P2458 - Diesel Particulate Filter Regeneration Duration

Additional Fault Symptom:
 - Signal is Above Maximum Threshold

Status: 
 - Previously Set DTC - Not Present at Time of Request
 - Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC

Module: Powertrain Control Module

Diagnostic Trouble Code details

Diesel Particulate Filter Regeneration Duration

This DTC may be caused by :

Over Charged Filter

Check the following:

Check that the differential pressure sensor and hoses are intact and not blocked.

Check that the pre and post-catalyst temperature sensors are operating correctly.

Check the air intake system for leaks, blockages and correct operation.

If any of the DPF or related components are renewed, perform the DPF service functions.

Check the PCM for the latest calibration.

Perform a manual regeneration of the DPF system.

Re-run the test again to ensure the fault has been fixed.

===END PCM DTC P2458-21===

===PCM DTC P1622-21===
Code: P1622 - Immobilizer ID Does Not Match

Additional Fault Symptom:
 - Signal is Above Maximum Threshold

Status: 
 - Previously Set DTC - Not Present at Time of Request
 - Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC

Module: Powertrain Control Module

Diagnostic Trouble Code details

Immobilizer ID Does Not Match

===END PCM DTC P1622-21===

===FACM DTC U1900-20===
Code: U1900 - CAN Communication Bus Fault - Receive Error

Status: 
 - Previously Set DTC - Not Present at Time of Request
 - Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC

Module: Fuel Additive Control Module

Diagnostic Trouble Code details

CAN Communication Bus Fault - Receive Error

This DTC illuminates the MIL.

This code is set when a fault has been detected on the CAN bus.

This DTC may be caused by :

Open circuit

Short circuit

Damaged or contaminated connector

DTCs that start with 'U' are faults which occur during module-to-module communication.

Modules should never be replaced based only on a 'U' code. These codes do not always indicate a problem, and can be caused by normal diagnostic functions, carried out on the vehicle.

Make sure that DTCs are cleared from both FACM and PCM after repairs are completed.

===END FACM DTC U1900-20===

===ABS DTC None===
Successful DTC reading, no error codes found

Module: Antilock braking system

===END ABS DTC None===

===EPS DTC U1900-20===
Code: U1900 - Missing Message for Engine Speed

Status: 
 - Previously Set DTC - Not Present at Time of Request
 - Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC

Module: Electronic-Controlled Power Steering

Diagnostic Trouble Code details

CAN Communication Bus Fault (missing messages)

Possible causes are:

Missing Message for Engine Speed

Engine RPM Data Invalid

Vehicle Speed Data Invalid

Check CAN Wiring/CAN Network is functioning.

Note:

DTCs that start with 'U' are faults which occur during module-to-module communication.

Modules should never be replaced based only on a 'U' code. These codes do not always indicate a problem, and can be caused by normal diagnostic functions, carried out on the vehicle.

===END EPS DTC U1900-20===

===IC DTC None===
Successful DTC reading, no error codes found

Module: Instrument Cluster

===END IC DTC None===

===RCM DTC None===
Successful DTC reading, no error codes found

Module: Restraint Control Module

===END RCM DTC None===

===ACM DTC None===
Successful DTC reading, no error codes found

Module: Audio Control Module

===END ACM DTC None===

===GEM DTC None===
Successful DTC reading, no error codes found

Module: Generic Electronic Module

===END GEM DTC None===

I'm assuming the DPF error means it hasn't cleared the blockage though I haven't had any engine malfunction problems since.

7 hours ago, Lewie said:

I expected errors and got 6.

Code: U0073 - CAN communication bus fault

Code: U0416 - Invalid Data Received from the ABS Control Module

Code: P2458 - Diesel Particulate Filter Regeneration Duration

Code: P1622 - Immobilizer ID Does Not Match

===FACM DTC U1900-20===
Code: U1900 - CAN Communication Bus Fault - Receive Error

===EPS DTC U1900-20===
Code: U1900 - Missing Message for Engine Speed

It looks like the MIL was off, no indication of the errors, so they were either old, or pending, that is happened only once but needing two for an indication.

Apart from P2458, they are all communication errors. The DPF regen system is rather sensitive to a lot of things, so there could easily be some communication problem there too. There were communication related errors in the first post in this thread. We have concentrated on the DPF issues, and found dodgy hoses, and a possibly rather blocked DPF. But it looks like there is some other problem, like a bad connector, that is causing all the comms errors.

It looks like a very intermittent problem, the comms errors did not return straight away. I would start by measuring the CAN bus resistance: Ign off, wait at least 30 sec for everything to shut down, then use a meter on pins 6 & 14 of the diagnostic connector. It should be close to 60 ohms, and dead stable. Even bashing the fascia, the trims under the passenger side front door, and the engine bay fusebox, should not alter it. I would repeat this often, as it is so intermittent.

I would reset the codes, and monitor often to see how soon any came back. And if they did, I would look at the connectors in the HS-CAN bus. There are two low down just in front of the passenger door (there are actually three there, but the bus only goes through two, although I am not sure physically which is which!), and the big connector in the engine bay fusebox. The connectors to the IC and the PCM will also affect this resistance measurement. The PCM one is hard to get at as it is protected by a security bolt.

Intermittent connection problems are a real pig. It can take a lot of persistence and time to locate them. But it does not sound like it is affecting the car too much at the moment. As long as it is doing some regens, it will be ok.

 

Thanks for all that info  Peter, much appreciated.

I've noticed a bit of a dead spot as I accelerate from low revs at times as though the LOS mode is going to rear it's ugly head, but that may have always been there and I'm looking for faults.
I also can hear the wiper relay clicking which I've never heard before, again, maybe I'm listening more intently.
Is there any indication that the DPF has done a regen? 

The CAN comms errors are usually just glitches and nothing to worry about, I used to get the missing speed signal for the PAS regularly without ever having any steering issues.  I wouldn't be worried about chasing any of those codes myself.  The DPF duration one is common on partly blocked DPFs though, once it starts, it seems only replacing the filter cures it, however I would wait until there are more noticeable DPF issues before spending out on a new one.  If you start getting a lot of failed regens - fans running on after engine shut off and heavily diluted oil well over the max mark on the dipstick for example.  The dead spot can show a regen is needed, it's the backpressure from the soot loading, but that should clear once a regen has taken place.  If it's happening all the time it might just be in your mind as you say.