MS CAN - this is easy to find since it goes to the front doors on both sides. GraY-OranGe/VioleT-OranGe twisted par. Find the loom going to the doors and somewhere there is this pair.

Alternatively, MS-CAN is here (LHD 😞 )

 

 

7 hours ago, piotrmod said:

 

 

Thanks Piotr, is this connector you have in your LHD image in the drivers side footwell?

I was hoping there might be a CAN High/Low closer tap in at the rear of the car to save trailing wires all the way to the front. Since Ground will be attached at a rear chassis earth point I thought I might be able to run Power from the a rear + feed too 🤷🏼‍♂️ 

What circuit is best for Power + feed for the sensors?

11 hours ago, Walkie1973 said:

I was hoping there might be a CAN High/Low closer tap in at the rear of the car to save trailing wires all the way to the front

Yes, if you have trailer module or power tailgate. 

11 hours ago, Walkie1973 said:

What circuit is best for Power + feed for the sensors?

IMO - park assist (PDC), power is in the back.

 

The connector is C211. I think in both RHD & LHD it is on the right side of the car.

 

Are there CAN wires in the back for the B&O DSP or Adaptive Damper (CCD) modules?

2 hours ago, alexp999 said:

Are there CAN wires in the back for the B&O DSP or Adaptive Damper (CCD) modules?

In this car, we have like 4 main CAN buses and, maybe 2, "private" buses. We need MS-CAN (middle speed), which exists in the back of the car only if there is the trailer module or the power tailgate option.

Correct me if I'm wrong: CCD is a unicorn, some heard about it. It was canceled from the production very quickly.

B&O DSP is using HS3-CAN, same as APIM, IPC, HUD. Not MS-CAN.

6 minutes ago, piotrmod said:

In this car, we have like 4 main CAN buses and, maybe 2, "private" buses. We need MS-CAN (middle speed), which exists in the back of the car only if there is the trailer module or the power tailgate option.

Correct me if I'm wrong: CCD is a unicorn, some heard about it. It was canceled from the production very quickly.

B&O DSP is using HS3-CAN, same as APIM, IPC, HUD. Not MS-CAN.

CCD was standard on the ST for a few years, then still an option for a few more.

Only very recently did it become completely unavailable on the ST.

24 minutes ago, alexp999 said:

CCD was standard on the ST for a few years, then still an option for a few more.

Thanks, non ST focuses have no CCD option then. 

Still, useless for BLIS:

1 minute ago, piotrmod said:

Thanks, non ST focuses have no CCD option then. 

Still, useless for BLIS:

It was available on Vignale too at the start, but thanks for looking.

6 hours ago, piotrmod said:

Yes, if you have trailer module or power tailgate. 

IMO - park assist (PDC), power is in the back.

 

No trailer or power tailgate - I think these are only options in the Focus Estate/Wagon.

I do have rear reverse camera and x4 Parking Distance sensors (Not x6 which includes Adaptive Park Assist). Also have B&O Amplifier and Subwoofer in the boot spare wheel compartment.

 

So will use front CAN connector as you said, but will need to know what fuse to add mini tap to.

 

Another quick question what size bolt is required for the sensor fastening, I thought it was M6 X 22mm but seems not.

9 minutes ago, Walkie1973 said:

what fuse t

F3

but,

by factory it shares power with the rear camera. You can easily find camera power at the back, right side.

2 hours ago, piotrmod said:

F3

but,

by factory it shares power with the rear camera. You can easily find camera power at the back, right side.

Ok that makes the loom to the CAN middle speed +/- easier if it only contains the twisted pair cable. 

So Power & Ground will branch off at the rear. Do you have the wiring diagram for rear camera circuit Piotr by any chance?

PARTS REQUIRED
This is for a Focus ST Mk4 install that had no ACTIVE PARK ASSIST (Auto Parking) and wiring into the DDM/PDM was already present for plug n play BLiS mirrors. Yours might not be so check your wiring.

 

PRICE I PAID
V
FORD NEW PRICE

• 10 Pin mirrors x2 - JX7B-17E714-**
£180 pair.
New Mirror Assm. £350+, Mirror Cover £107, BLiS heated glass £120+ each.
NOTE: You can choose to upgrade your existing ST 8 Pin mirrors by adding the two extra wires required to power/ground the mirror warning LED from the door module through the door harness up into the mirror, but you will also need to change the mirror glass to one with it already included.
I found it easier & cheaper to buy the 10 pin mirrors from the bay auction site which were plug and play as the door plug is pinned ready on the ST IF YOUR MIRRORS HAVE LESS THAN 8 PINNED WIRES YOU WILL NEED ADDITIONAL WIRING!!!!.

• SODR Blind Spot Radar Modules x2 JX7T-14C689-CE
£200.
New £450+ each.
NOTE: Both radars have to be the same part number to speak to the Body Control Module (BCM) there are other part number variations ending CA/CC & CD for my install I chose 2 X CE but you can use 2 X CA or 2 X CC , Left from Right is distinguished by one having an additional ground wire in the Radar Loom. 

 

Also note the Mk2 Ford Puma or Mk8 Fiesta Radars will also fit in the Mk4/4.5 Focus mounts that already exist behind the rear bumper under the light clusters but because the wires connect in from the top on the Puma/Fiesta Modules it’s advised to stick to the Mk4/4.5 Focus ones as the wires come in from the back.

 

 

L1TT-14A411-ABB
£25.
NOTE: This loom is from a Ford Puma Mk2 2019-2024 as the Ford Focus one is Factory order fit only. The Mk8 Ford Fiesta loom is also useful but will need modifications like the Puma loom to enable it to slide onto the radar connector this is done by shaving down one connector side casing with a Stanley knife blade. The connector still locks into position on the radar connector so no fear of it working loose, it also needs extending ever so slightly (1/2 metre should be ample) between the two radar connections using similar colour wires. Just so it feeds around the internal boot edge correctly, otherwise you will have to feed it externally (just fits).

 

 

BESPOKE CABIN LOOM/ HARNESS PARTS

• 5.5m 22AWG 0.35mm CAN Twisted Pair striped wire (Ideally Violet/Orange & Grey/Orange, single colour will do - I used Orange & Grey so I could identify which was CAN pos + & CAN neg - further down the line).
£16.50

• 5m 2:1 Heat Shrink tubing 4.8mm Black (for CAN twisted pair wire protection only).
£4.50

• 1/2m x 0.5mm Thin-wall 11amp GROUND - striped wire (Black/Yellow).
£3.75

• 1/2m x 0.5 Thin-wall 11amp POWER + striped wire (Orange/White).
£3.75

• 2m BLACK flexi non-split 10mm plastic conduit with 8mm diameter hole (to house all wires chased through from the radar loom to rear boot space).
£3.99

• 1 x Molex 150 Female 6 pin connector (complete with terminal pins for connection to Radar loom male Molex connector).
Note: I had to buy a full connector with both Male & Female ends, only using the Female side.
£8.00

• 4 x M4 22mm Torx Black Oxide radar mounting bolts.
Ford supplied are around £8 each, other about 50p each.

• 1 x 10amp Power fuse tap (If no Active Park Assist Module/ Rear Parking Sensor Module is present at the rear quarter). 
£3.
• 1 x 8mm ring ground terminal

• 19mm Black loom/harness tape (for binding all wires together once CAN wire has been shrouded in heat shrink protection. Making feeding into conduit protection easier.

 

CRAFTING THE BESPOKE LOOM

• 1. Take the 5.5 meters of CAN +/- Orange/Grey striped twisted pair wire and feed into the Black heat shrink tubing, you may want to do this in meter steps for ease. Leaving a few inches bare at either end free from heat shrink. Once done gently heat with a hot setting heat gun or hair drier until it shrinks no more, its roughly 2:1 shrinkage being mindful of moving gently but at a speed not to overheat the wires or tubing.

NOTE: The Radar Loom with the Female Molex Connector has 6 wires going into it (1xPower 1xGround and 2xCAN+/- twisted pair = x4 CAN+/- wires). The same has to be pinned into the connecting Male Molex Connector 1/2m of the CAN wire is enough as we will be joining 2x orange & 2x grey to form a Y 2 into 1 so that we only have to run 2 wires to the front of the car.

• 2 To do this cut the additional 1/2 metre from the CAN then lay it next to the 5m you just cut from and splice connect so you have two Orange & two Grey going into one Orange & one Grey length and insulate and wrap in loom tape. Basically now you should have a loom that has four CAN wires on one end that connect to the Male Molex and one CAN Orange & one CAN grey wire that connects at the front of the car.

• 3. Now line up the fresh rubber shrouded four CAN +/- wires end alongside your Orange/White Power+ & Black/Yellow Ground- wires and using your loom tape wrap diagonally around all six wires reasonably tight maintaining even thickness. Leaving the Power/ Ground wire free towards the latter end  - wrap those two wires separately as the Ground wire will have the 8mm Brass ring terminal attached and bolted to an earthing point and the Power wire will tap in the Parking Module at the boot quarter so don't need to run to the front like the two CAN wires do.

• 4. You can now cover the Male Molex connection end with six wires also with some of your plastic flexi conduit just enough length so it isn't snagged in the boot/ quarter panel space, once in the cabin it doesn’t require the conduit protection and the loom tape will suffice.

• 5. Now to wiring the Male Molex Connector. Take the Power+ Orange/White wire and using a crimp tool, crimp it into a male molex pin and push into the Male Molex Connector on the relevant side to the same coloured Power+ wire in the Female Molex Connector until it clicks into position repeating this for the Ground- Black/Yellow wire pin. And the same for the x2 twisted pair 4 colour matching wires.
NOTE: One Radar Module will have 4 wires the other Radar Module will have 5 wires which includes x2 Ground- wires this is how the system recognises which is the Right Module and which is the Left Module so long as the CAN+ wires connect and the CAN- wires connect correctly everything should work.

Once the Male Molex Connector is pinned and wired it’s ready to connect to the Female Connector.


REAR BUMPER REMOVAL

Tools/ miscellaneous fixings required:

• Torx screwdriver/bits.
• Prise tool.
• Sharp knife/ blade.
• Blanket or protection cover.
• Frog/ masking tape.
• Fir tree & Cable ties.

I felt there was no need to remove any rear wheels or the wheel arch liners, doing so would make access easier.
The following were the locations of the bumper fastenings that need removing :-

• Rear arch liner/s there is x1 Torx screw (O/S & N/S) visible at the lower rear inside arch edge.

• Just behind the same rear arch liner/s about half way up from the previously removed screw you’ll see x1 Torx screw that secures the bumper at the (O/S & N/S).

• x4 Torx screws on the rear central underside of the bumper that screw into the exhaust heat-shield.

• x2 Fir tree push-in clips (x4 in total) that connect the underside wheel arch liners to the rear bumper lower side and are clipped in at either side of the rear bumper underside torx screws you unscrewed previously.

Open the boot lid and lift out the outer light rain plastic guards to reveal x2 Hex bolts.

Just be careful at the bumper sides when you need to pull it gently outwards to unclip the bumper from the body (the prise tool & frog/ masking tape may be useful here, so as not to damage the paintwork), also remembering to place your blanket/ protective cover on the ground for when the bumper releases & drops, avoiding any unnecessary damage.
Also be careful of any existing sensor wiring loom that’s still attached behind the bumper reaching in to unclip the electrical molex connector to the reverse sensors.

Once the bumper is removed take out the O/S wiring rubber grommet in the rear body and slice an X into the centre with a sharp knife/ blade wide enough to feed the radar loom Molex connector through.
Attach both radars to the wiring locking into place and fasten both to the radar brackets that are already in place on the car- use x4 M4 22mm Black Oxide Torx bolts (from the bespoke loom parts list).
Attach the loom to the car using Fir tree cable ties. Feeding the bespoke +/- & CAN cable source loom end female molex connector from inside the car boot and connect to the male molex connector with the newly threaded grommet feed and fix in place pulling the loom gently from inside the boot.
The Ground - cable can be fastened to the quarter inner panel earthing point here now.


So back on goes the bumper in the reverse order to the removal steps above.

 

NEXT STEPS

Connecting wires.

First job disconnect the battery, negative terminal first then the positive terminal.
Remove the O/S rear 1/4 parcel shelf support (with a sharp tug it just unclips), you will also have to remove the boot latch cover (unclips) and the spare wheel foam insert before removing the O/S boot liner (no fastenings).
This will reveal the area you left the WH/OG + & - BL/YL (earth/ground/negative connected to the 1/4 panel body) from the radar Molex connectors we installed previously.
At the rear in the O/S boot corner you will find an Active Park Assist module that has two wiring connectors plugged into it, we want the largest connector (see image) that has a Solid Grey thin wall wire this is the rear parking sensors Positive + feed wire and where we will connect our +Pos WH/OG Radar bespoke loom wire to. Using your usual method of tap in be that splice & solder, wire butt connectors or other. Just make sure its well insulated.

Check the male/female Molex and existing connections are all in order before replacing the removed trim.

We can now go to the front of the car to tap in the OG/GY & VL/OG medium speed CAN wires at the OBDII port or other Network Module that carries the MS CAN connection (check via your wiring diagram), different models may have different set ups but for my Focus ST the OG/GY & VL/OG wires here at the OBDII port are the easiest to access for splicing into ** Just be extra careful if you’re cutting into wires, they’re only thin *** Make sure they are properly insulated!!!

We’re now ready to go to the Forscan programming step to follow>>>>

1 hour ago, Walkie1973 said:

Also note the Mk2 Ford Puma or Mk8 Fiesta Radars will also fit in the Mk4/4.5 Focus mounts that already exist behind the rear bumper under the light clusters but because the wires connect in from the top on the Puma/Fiesta Modules it’s advised to stick to the Mk4/4.5 Focus ones as the wires come in from the back.

 

 

 

Just to avoid confusing. "Puma" style modules are also Focus modules! Just for estate (i.e. wagon)!

FORSCAN PROGRAMMING

Connect to the car using a recommended scan USB device (Forscan have a list they recommend, and due to different software etc that your laptop uses will depend on which you will need. So I can't advise on that).

Once your connected to the car and Forscan, let the program scan your vehicle and all it's necessary modules. You might want to save your current AsBuild here just in case you need to revert any changes later. You will also get the option to add your current car as a Profile save.

 

Select the Programming & Configuration  Icon (Looks like a computer chip) from the left hand side this will search and list all your vehicles modules. And if everything is wired correctly SODR & SODL Configuration will be listed ( Do NOT select the SODR or SODL AS Build Configuration, unless you have the details to do so )!!

1/ We can make the relevant changes in the SODR Configuration first, highlight the line then press the PLAY icon at the bottom, on the next screen you will see BLiS & CTA Configuration highlight the line select EDIT CHANGE and adjust from DISABLED to ENABLED then lower down the list you will see the Lines with VIN 1-6, 7-12 & 13-17 here you will input your own cars VIN details select EDIT CHANGE for each of the three lines with the characters from your VIN number and WRITE the changes by accepting the prompt to tick YES and cycle the ignition OFF and back ON again. Press STOP to go back to the module list.

2/ Repeat the above no 1/ steps for SODL Configuration.

 

 

3/  Back in the module menu list now select the Drivers Door Module Configuration (DDM)  Here we will activate the Blind Spot Mirror Warning Indicator (Amber LED) - SELECT>PLAY> EDIT> ENABLE>WRITE to save YES to accept the change >OFF/ON ignition cycle to send the change to the module. Press STOP to go back to the module list.

4/ Repeat step 3/ but this time select the Passenger Door Module Configuration (PDM) to activate the Blind Spot Mirror Warning Indicator. SELECT>PLAY> EDIT>ENABLE>WRITE> to save YES to accept the change >OFF/ON ignition cycle to send the change to the module. Press STOP to go back to the module list.

 

5/ The Instrument Cluster Module Configuration (IPC) is next so the BLiS & CTA show up as a menu selection option in the drivers menu - highlight the IPC Configuration> PLAY> now to narrow the list down in the filter search type BLI this just makes the selection easier as it filters it down. Select Blind Spot Monitoring System>EDIT>ENABLE>WRITE to save YES to accept the change>OFF/ON ignition cycle to send the change to the module. Press STOP to go back to the module list.

 

6/ This time in the IPC Configuration filter search for CROSS or CTA two option will appear Cross Traffic Alert & Cross Traffic Message make the change to enable both these. EDIT> ENABLE> WRITE> YES to accept the change > OFF/ON ignition cycle to send the change to the module. Press STOP to go back to the module list.

7/ The last change is in the Application Programming Interface Module Configuration (APIM) here it allows for the rear view camera in the CTA to change to a wide camera angle when reversing out of a parking space. Highlight APIM Configuration> PLAY> filter search Cross or CTA and only one option will show for you to ENABLE using the same method PLAY> EDIT> ENABLE> WRITE> YES to accept the change >OFF/ON ignition cycle to send the change to the module. Press STOP to go back to the module list.

 

Thats the Forscan programming done! Though whilst still connected to the car this might be a good time to check the DTC's from the icon on the left to see what shows currently if anything and deleting any that show. Do a safe disconnect from the car by selecting the car icon and the disconnect icon at the bottom, then re-connect to see if any new DTC's have arisen hopefully not and you're ready to road test your NEW BLiS SYSTEM.

 

I've tried to be as accurate as I can but please note any changes you make to your car using a third party program like Forscan is done at your own risk. The steps above are what I did to achieve a working BLiS system for MY CAR ONLY. Certain parameters may differ as every car differs from one aspect to another.

 

I hope it helps someone and Good Luck with your modification.

Very good work @Walkie1973, I'm sure it will be of great help to others in the future 👍

47 minutes ago, unofix said:

Very good work @Walkie1973, I'm sure it will be of great help to others in the future 👍

Cheers, it seems a big job with the write up but once the parts are gathered, bespoke loom is made everything else is just pretty straight forward. Though it wasn’t without its hiccups. Trial n error.

Fantastic walk thru mate, appreciate it, on the hunt for parts now......

Good job. Thanks for the great instructions.

All that's left is to activate Blis-Cross in the ABS module so that the car brakes itself.