I wouldn't bother with EGRV_FLOV but I would put the Fuel Rail Pressure, VSS (speed) and any Turbo ones that are there. 

I don't know if the laptop version still allows you to record in Dashboard Mode (I use the Android version with a good (expensive) wireless adaptor all the time for monitoring), if it does then it is a bit easier on the eye when comparing different PID's to each other at the same time. Graph mode also is better for this. Whatever mode you record with I think you should be able to switch modes for a better view afterwards with the same information on them.

You should be able to post screenshots of immediately before, after and when the problem occurs on here, much better than a spreadsheet.

Incidentally the Throttle Valve will close to about 20% when doing a Regeneration and to about half way for 1 or 2 seconds when you tale your foot off the Gas, for example when changing gear. 

If you don't want to record the whole journey you could try to reproduce the fault conditions, preferably near home for convenience.

I don't know if disconnecting the Battery will work or not. 

Well made the journey today, only done snippets of journey though. Images below, the line on the graphs is roughly where the Engine Malfunction P0229 occured. I also have images from the scanned which I then plugged into the OBDII port to get the freeze data, the freeze data points to the MAP sensor but the map sensor never gets that low on the live data i've recorded. 

 

This spreadsheet I used to see the lowest value of all the recordings I have done for the MAP sensor.

 

Here are the free frames for 2 of the times it warned today. 

 

I also noticed two new errors since I unplugged the car battery for 5 mins. They are:

P0134 - HO2S-11 no activity detected
P2196 - HO2S11 not switching correctly, sensor indicates rich

So a lot of info from today 😞 the cars probably just fooked!!!

One thing I did notice it when the warning comes on for P0299 I don't lose any more power until after 10 seconds, then its limited to 3000RPM and slower.

That's as clear as mud now.

I would discount the MAP readings from the Ancel, they may have subtracted the atmospheric pressure or are in different units or just wrong. The ones that FORScan show look normal, but they may be a bit low.

The 819 DPF reading in the last graph should not be there, especially when you were not moving most of the time and has made the scaling for that part of the graph to be so small in the last graph that it looks like the Differential Pressure is a flat line instead of following the MAP and MAF to a certain extent.

Incidentally you are best taking the PID's from the PCM rather than OBD11, although they should be the same.

The MAP and MAF readings mirror each other and that is what should be expected, but they may be a bit low. You should be able to force the MAP to above 200 kPa if you give the car a bit of welly, if you can't or if the Fault Code occurs when you try then there is obviously something wrong.

Rather than spending any money if it was my car I would check the whole Air Intake system for blockages and leaks. Any blockages are likely to be pre Turbo and could be anywhere from the intake ductwork above the grill to the Turbo. Obviously if the Air Filter is completely blocked then it should be changed. Leaks could be anywhere on the High Pressure side including the Intercooler although the pipe from the Air Filter is famous for splitting where it attaches onto the Turbo.

I would not worry much about the HSO2 fault code. These cars do have a Heated Oxygen sensor and a failed one might increase the emissions but should not cause drivability problems. When I had the same car as you I once noticed the same code although there were no drivability problems and after clearing it never came back. 

  

Thanks again, I only took reading using the OBD11 because I thought the PCM  and OBD11 for the MAP might have been different as the ancel machine was showing 25kpa.

I'm going to have a good look either today or over the weekend. I'll post back with that I find and if I've sorted it.

Again, many thanks 👍🏻👍🏻

Changed the MAP sensor just to rule it out and it still comes up on the freeze data as being down to 25kpa. 

I've ordered a new DPF Pressure sensor that should come next week.

I also checked the air trunking/filter up until the turbo, all clear. 

My lock on the bonnet broke so ordered a new mechanism, the plastic inside decided to break. So not having a lot of luck with the car at the moment. 

Thinking of ordering one of these intake pipes:

As the breather part, both clips are broken!!!

Its still bugging me why the car doesn't have any power. It used to be quicker than my Insignia but now its much slower. 

Could the turbo be ***** without any warnings popping up? If i'm in 3rd or 4th gear just past 3000 revs it starts to get power but 1st and 2nd gears are poor. But when i'm ragging it in 3rd or 4th then the turbo underboost warning comes up and then limits the car to 3000 revs until I reset the warnings. 

I doubt if a new Intake pipe will solve the problem, the clips at the Crankcase Breather do break but it is of little consequence.

A new DPF sensor would be a good idea because the readings in your screenshots are not correct. The downside is that if the DPF is blocked and this is not being recognised because the sensor is faulty it may be the cause of the underboost, but the car will throw up a different fault for the blocked DPF and you will not be any better off. That is just speculation on my part and may be completely wrong.

The next most likely cause of the problem is an air leak on the high pressure side of the Turbo pipework or Intercooler that only fully opens up when the pressure gets high enough. The trouble with this is that it can be difficult to pinpoint.

It could also be the Turbo, It would be a good idea to wait for the DPF Sensor and the do some more Live Data recording which should include any Turbo PID's that you can find.

 

 

Hello again,

I've swapped the DPF differential sensor and I still got the reading of 819.2Kpa a few times. 

I reset the learned value for the sensor too. 

The image above is the drive i've just done, the car is so much more responsive and powerful when the regen is taking place. But when I put my ful down its a little jerky. So i'd put my foot down on the accelerator the car would accelerate then suddenly accelerates a little more after a jerk (all withing 1 second of putting my foot down). I ragged it this time and I didn't get the underboost up which is a little strange! You can see the vanes on the turbo open up a lot more when the regen is taking place. Could it be a fuel filter as i'm not sure when the filter was last changed? 

I've had the car for 2 years now and its not been changed since i've had it. 

I definitely have more power in 3/4 gear above 3,000 revs. I'll have to check the pipes on the HP side but I think that's for another day! But I will post back here with any updates I have as it does help other people with similar problems. 

Sorry this is the full drive I done, the above picture is just after the regen ended

The MAP reading looks now to be more like it should be, but I would still expect to be able to force it nearer 240 briefly.

Those 819 spikes for the DPF are still nonsense. I wonder if that is the default value that is given when the PCM does not get a reading from the sensor. If you connect up FORScan with the ignition on and remove the the Electrical connector and or give the cables a wiggle test and it shows 819 then that will confirm whether it is or not. It may throw a fault code but you can clear it.

The recommended interval for the Fuel Filter used to be 3 years, but I would not leave it more than 2 because the filtration is so good that the filters get clogged very quickly, but they usually throw a fault code for low Fuel Rail Pressure when that happens.

The filters on these cars are notoriously difficult to change because there is no priming pump and the bleed screw is a combined bleed/drain one and trying to start afterwards can drain a good battery. If you do decide to change the filter and can successfully draw the Diesel through the new filter then switch the Ignition on for a few seconds, then off for a few seconds and repeat that about 5 times. That puts the system under a little pressure then when the Ignition is off the Fuel Rail Pressure sensor opens to dump the pressure down the return line, taking some of the air with it. Sound daft but it worked for me every time, whereas the first time I did a filter on one of these cars I had big problems starting and keeping it running.   

If you monitor the Fuel Rail Pressure while driving it should go from around 300 kPa at idle to something over 1000 briefly under full load and should be steady under steady driving. The Fuel Pump is capable of very high pressures but it is regulated because too high a pressure for the load will stall the engine, not just too low a pressure.

Because the ever changing faults that are showing and some of the strange readings that you are getting I can't help thinking that there is either something wrong with the PCM or one of the feeds or Earths to it. 

 

20 hours ago, Tizer said:

The MAP reading looks now to be more like it should be, but I would still expect to be able to force it nearer 240 briefly.

Those 819 spikes for the DPF are still nonsense. I wonder if that is the default value that is given when the PCM does not get a reading from the sensor. If you connect up FORScan with the ignition on and remove the the Electrical connector and or give the cables a wiggle test and it shows 819 then that will confirm whether it is or not. It may throw a fault code but you can clear it.

The recommended interval for the Fuel Filter used to be 3 years, but I would not leave it more than 2 because the filtration is so good that the filters get clogged very quickly, but they usually throw a fault code for low Fuel Rail Pressure when that happens.

The filters on these cars are notoriously difficult to change because there is no priming pump and the bleed screw is a combined bleed/drain one and trying to start afterwards can drain a good battery. If you do decide to change the filter and can successfully draw the Diesel through the new filter then switch the Ignition on for a few seconds, then off for a few seconds and repeat that about 5 times. That puts the system under a little pressure then when the Ignition is off the Fuel Rail Pressure sensor opens to dump the pressure down the return line, taking some of the air with it. Sound daft but it worked for me every time, whereas the first time I did a filter on one of these cars I had big problems starting and keeping it running.   

If you monitor the Fuel Rail Pressure while driving it should go from around 300 kPa at idle to something over 1000 briefly under full load and should be steady under steady driving. The Fuel Pump is capable of very high pressures but it is regulated because too high a pressure for the load will stall the engine, not just too low a pressure.

Because the ever changing faults that are showing and some of the strange readings that you are getting I can't help thinking that there is either something wrong with the PCM or one of the feeds or Earths to it. 

 

 

The image below is when I removed the plug on the differential sensor for the DPF, went to 67.5, I plugged it back in and it slowly started to fall. 

I would have thought it would have come down a lot quicker than that too. 

I also filled the car up the other day, and it took the fuel gauge 1 min for it to recognise I filled it up, so I left the pertrol station with the fuel warning light on :lol I think its slowly dying. So i'm just going to drive it as it is. You never know if it is the ECU then it might just suddenly start working.

I checked the codes this morning and found these:

Is there any spray I can put onto pipes/hoses which bubble or change the engine noise? I've seen a video of a mechanic using  brake cleaner, spraying it on a hose which had a hole in it and the engine revs changed when he sprayed it. 

On the fuel, the pressures all look okay. The car gets serviced in October so i'll get the garage to do a full service with Fuel filter too. 

Thanks again for all your help and your time reading / replying to this thread.

I will update if anything changes. 

Cheers 👍

 

 

Not what I expected, nor the strange spike in the MAP. I do know that the PCM can send out a Bias Voltage to check for broken wires but this is now beyond my level of expertise.

The fuel gauge does seem like there is a power or earth problem somewhere, but it could be caused by anything. 

The video you saw would work with a petrol car where the induction system is under negative pressure because it is throttled but I doubt if it would work post Turbo on a Diesel engine which is under positive pressure, unless anyone knows different.

I'm not sure about the U codes, but sometimes they are set if the diagnostic equipment is connected before the modules have had a few seconds to go through a self test, especially the ABS.

Good luck and I hope you get it fixed one way or another.  

Well the cars had a service a month ago.

Oil changed, Oil Filter changed, fuel filter changed air intake filter changed and all the other usual stuff.

The turbo underboost went away for a few days even when I was ragging it. But its back to normal now, appearing as frequently as before.

I had a new warning today, the Soot one P2463-E0, also had P2196-26, P0299-60 and P242F-60 all pop up on the same journey from Middlesbrough to Faslane (just west of Glasgow).

You can do a Static DPF Regeneration with FORScan but if the DPF is too clogged up it will not be allowed to happen. From those codes alone It does look like your DPF is at the end of its life, but given all the other strange codes that you have had I would be reluctant to spend too much money on the DPF. I would have expected a Regeneration to have happened on your drive to Faslane but it looks like it didn't, so if it is not completely shot then maybe something else is preventing it from happening and it is now full of soot and ash.

There are companies that can cut open the DPF and clean it properly, but if it is too far gone they can't do it. You can also buy aftermarket ones but many people have had a great deal of difficulty getting with then, especially getting them to fit.

Trying to do a Static Regen will cost you nothing. The engine should be warm first and the codes should be erased as well. It can take up to about 25 minutes so make sure your Laptop is fully charged and there is nothing directly behind the exhaust because if it works there is a lot of heat produced.

Good luck.

  

10 hours ago, Tizer said:

You can do a Static DPF Regeneration with FORScan but if the DPF is too clogged up it will not be allowed to happen

Yeah I tried to do one but it said its either too high or too low to start it. 

I had forscan on and it didn't do a regen, I accidently closed the app so didn't save anything, but the pressure got up to 18kpa but then dropped right back down to around 1kpa without the regen taking place, the exhaust temp never got above 430*c when it does a regen i gets to over 600*c. 

10 hours ago, Tizer said:

There are companies that can cut open the DPF and clean it properly, but if it is too far gone they can't do it.

Yeah I was looking at this, it will cost £300 + VAT to get that done, might be worth a try.

I I just continue to drive it, will it just ***** the car / turbo up?

I'm going to try and reset everything today and try another DPF static regen. 

9 hours ago, mcyates said:

 

I I just continue to drive it, will it just ***** the car / turbo up? 

I don't know the answer to that.

If you have time then take a read at this very long post from the FORScan Forum. It also has a cheat for removing the P242F code if you can't clear it.  Cleaning clogged DPF on Ford Focus II 1.6 TDCI - FORScan forum 

Just now, Tizer said:

I don't know the answer to that.

If you have time then take a read at this very long post from the FORScan Forum. It also has a cheat for removing the P242F code if you can't clear it.  Cleaning clogged DPF on Ford Focus II 1.6 TDCI - FORScan forum 

Thank you i'll take a look now 👍

I'll try that tomorrow.

What is strange is my:

• VGTDC % dropped from 60% to 22% it rarely goes this low i'm lucking if it ever goes below 50% unless doing a regen, When i'm in regen, I get a lot more power!!
• EGR_PCT also drops closer to 0%
• Same with EGR_TV

I wonder if my EGR I replaced with a cheap one is, knackered. Because FL_EGRTV, FL_EGRV, LL_EGRTV and LL_EGRV are not learnt.

I'm going to book it into a garage this weekend, get my local garage to see if they can find anything wrong with it. 

Might even buy a EGR blanking cap to see if I get power.

Needs its MOT doing on 28th October haha, will no doubt fail it and get scrapped.

On 8/31/2021 at 6:29 PM, mcyates said:

I wonder if my EGR I replaced with a cheap one is, knackered.

I have no direct experience of EGR problems but from numerous posts on the subject it appears that many people have found after-market EGR's quickly give trouble and the only sure-fire cure is to replace with an OEM Valeo unit.

8 hours ago, mjt said:

I have no direct experience of EGR problems but from numerous posts on the subject it appears that many people have found after-market EGR's quickly give trouble and the only sure-fire cure is to replace with an OEM Valeo unit.

Many thanks for the reply, I'll give it a go. Might get one from a breaker. 👍🏻👍🏻

I've put a blank in between the engine and the EGR to see if it made a difference. I now have the same power at each revs, usually there would be more power above 3,000 revs, tried to do a Static regen but it kept failing, i'll hopefully see a regen tomorrow when I travel back to Scotland from Middlesbrough. Lots of motorway driving, at 70* the echaust temp is now just below 500* so its about a 100*c hotter. 

I was ragging the engine up a hill on a duel carraigeway and I couldn't re-create the turbocharger underboost warning. I'm hoping the DPF just needs a nice good few regens. 

Oh I also have a little leak on the blank as I didn't put a gasken in as i'm a *****! So will take that off and make a gasket when i'm back at work. 

Just finished my first long journey with the blank on the EGR. 

The car carried out 4 regens, each time it was doing a regen, when I accellerated, there was quiet a bit of black smoke coming out the exhaust. Is this normal as I've never noticed the black smoke when the EGR was not blanked. Its a cheap EGR this is what I boguht:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07HGWJRV7/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Still don't know if its the cause though. Car still has no power but a lot more during a regen. 

Going to check the differential pressure pipes tomorrow as sometimes the pressure can be 15.0kpa then suddenly drop to 0.5kpa and stay around their for a while, then slowly build and then drop off again. 

You might get some black smoke and soot during regeneration but there must have been a lot of it if you noticed it. I never noticed any smoke in my mirror during regeneration when I had the same car. Also It shouldn't have done 4 regenerations during that journey as well, they couldn't have been successful.

Regarding the EGR Valve, according to Valeo, the ones for the French HDI cars can't be fitted to Ford cars because the electronics inside them are different and are set up for a different voltage although they are identical in every other way. That applies to the Euro4 models, I'm not sure about Euro5 models.

This is a short extract from Valeo.

Valeo EGR Valve 700444 is only suitable for Ford, Mazda, Mini and Volvo vehicle applications whereas 700414 is only suitable for Citroen, Peugeot, Fiat and Suzuki applications.

 

8 minutes ago, Tizer said:

You might get some black smoke and soot during regeneration but there must have been a lot of it if you noticed it. I never noticed any smoke in my mirror during regeneration when I had the same car. Also It shouldn't have done 4 regenerations during that journey as well, they couldn't have been successful.

Regarding the EGR Valve, according to Valeo, the ones for the French HDI cars can't be fitted to Ford cars because the electronics inside them are different and are set up for a different voltage although they are identical in every other way. That applies to the Euro4 models, I'm not sure about Euro5 models.

This is a short extract from Valeo.

Valeo EGR Valve 700444 is only suitable for Ford, Mazda, Mini and Volvo vehicle applications whereas 700414 is only suitable for Citroen, Peugeot, Fiat and Suzuki applications.

 

Well the regens where started on on A66 on a single lane, both times! didn't do a regen on the Duel Carrageway. 

Then nothing for the whole of the M6/M74/M8, but then decided to do it on the single lanes. I think accellerating and decelerating is causing the differential pressure to build, just before I got to work it was at 26kpa and in a regen, so instead of going into the work turnoff, I turned the other way up a steep hill, a lot of smoke come out then, but I also got the underboost for the turbo. 

I'm going to fit a gasket to the EGR blank tomorrow, check the diferrential lines and then rag it somewhere, plenty of hills arounf Faslane!!

Is it worth getting the origan EGR then, as they're about £150 aren't they? Or just not bother and keep the blank on. 

2 minutes ago, mcyates said:

Is it worth getting the origan EGR then, as they're about £150 aren't they? Or just not bother and keep the blank on. 

There is no right or wrong answer to that. If the EGR was the only problem then the answer would probably be yes, but you seem to have some other spurious data readings that don't make sense as well.

Some people swear by blanking off their EGR and don't have problems but it is very much car dependant and I don't know if your model will run with it blanked off, with some cars it can throw up fault codes. Someone else on this forum with the same model may know the answer to that.

Okay, well I might just leave the cheap EGR valve on as its blanked now. Yeah the other random warnings are very strange, I forgot to mention yesterday I had two new ones. 

U0416-20
P193B-20
P1936-20

The P0299 is becoming harder to clear too. Try to clear it with Key On Engine Off but sometimes it keeps coming back and it still says the MAP pressure is 25Kpa. Something clearly isn't right with this lump of crap. 

I just have to get it through its MOT next months 🙂 

Well just checked the EGR blank was sealingproperly and it had fell of one of the bolts holding it on sowas only half covering the hole. 

Anywaysorted that, made a gasket for it and now I have a lot of power back. Dunno if its the same as before though. So to be this tells me its the EGR valve? Do you agree?

The cheap EGR must be knackered. I'm going to see how the car runs on my journey back to Middlesbrough which may be today. 

I can hear a whoosh of air as the car caccelerates fast. I lost the clamp from where the EGR meets the EGR cooler, will this be a problem? Will this be where the noise of air is?

Oh and I had this warning come up when I drove from the works carpark to my cabin (about 1/2 mile) P1103 -  MAF higher than expected but within range, but it cleared okay.

Oooo its all fun and games!

Thanks in advance.