How did you get on in the end? Did you manage to remove the cup lid type bit on the filter gauze?

39 minutes ago, Apples24 said:

Did you manage to remove the cup lid type bit on the filter gauze

It's not a removable item, unless you fancy taking an angle grinder to it.

Am at a grinding halt at the moment.

Have ordered an oil pressure test kit  and will confirm the cleaned pump is operating at the right pressure.

In the meantime I've done loads of work on the net identifying all the oilways and potential reasons for the turbo oil feed blockage.

One curious thing I've come across today is that there is a filter in the engine block near the turbo oil feed outlet. Unfortunately the plug to remove it is behind the timing cover. I can't find any information or even an actual photo of the filter so if it's blocked it must be extremely rare.

Hi Ray, thanks for keeping us updated. I would like to know if you find the cause of the problem just from a curiosity point of view.

keep going, you must be nearly there !

I assume this is fitted to protect the 3 off oil spray jets (piston lubrication)

The pressure test kit I expected yesterday has not yet arrived so I decided to probe a little more. By moving the alternator I was able to get a camera down to the turbo oil feed boss location and take a couple of pics. Bear in mind the diameter of the hole is only 10mm.

Previously I had found that there is an obscure internal engine block filter (pt. no. 1764808) adjacent to the the area I'm interested in but didn't know if if it was covering the turbo feed, or just protecting the 3 oil sprayers further along. Sods law, it looks like the filter is behind the hole and blocked (see photo's).

After spraying the gauze part of the filter with brake cleaner it can be seen in the oilway with very little debris outside it.

Last chance saloon will be to see if there is sufficient access to remove the screwed plug and filter with the sump off. There will be very limited access between the block and timing cover but will give it a go.

 

Ray..... 'I take my hat off to you'

I thought when I pulled the haldex unit to bits on my daughters AWD Kuga, that I'd gone beyond the call of duty, but you sir are in a league of your own 👍

You know that you've got to finish the job ?

All I can say is Santa should be good to you this year 😀

 

Update on this issue. I figured out a way of removing the turbo oil feed filter and, after a lot of planning and prep., I've got it out.

The filter gauze was blocked with hard black debris and some very fine fibrous material (see photos). How it gets through the main oil filter I don't know but somehow it has and has accumulated. To get some of it off to show in the photo I used a tiny scraper - it doesn't just wipe off.

Still waiting for the replacement filter from Ford in the UK as they had to order it from the main facility in Germany. Should have it in the next couple of days. Have added a photo of the old filter (cleaned up) just to show how small it is and how fine the steel gauze is (finer than the oil pump gauze).

Contrary to my previous thought that this filter was protecting the piston oil sprayers, it's actually the other way round. Filter is only covering the oil feed to the turbo, the filter bore goes straight through to the sprayers and was not blocked.

Onward and forward.

Hope it’s all fine in the end. It’s good that people like you go the extra mile on finding what’s wrong and putting it on here for us all to potentially benefit from in future. 

11 minutes ago, isetta said:

Hope it’s all fine in the end. It’s good that people like you go the extra mile on finding what’s wrong and putting it on here for us all to potentially benefit from in future. 

I agree. Looking forward to the final chapter in the story and hoping for a happy ending!

Probably the final update.

Replaced the engine block oil filter and sure enough an excellent flow of oil was restored to the turbocharger oil feed pipe. Checked oil pressure, steady at 25 psi.

Fitted the new turbo charger, re-assembled all the associated oil, water, vacuum and air pipes. No problems.

After confirming all running ok on tickover, I took the car for a 30 mile test drive, mainly motorway, where the engine ran perfectly - powerful, quiet and smooth. 

However, on leaving the motorway I suddenly began to hear noise from the engine. My daughters home is only half a mile from the exit so we stopped there to check.

On tickover the top end is noisy/tappetty, and increasing the revs makes it worse/louder

Checked for any oil leaks, re-checked oil level and oil pressure light, and all seems fine.

Looks like all has been in vain unless I'm missing something less obvious? - Gutted.

Hi Ray thank you for a very informative explanation of the trials and tribulations of trying to save yet another 1.0 ecoboost from the ever growing mountain of scrap.

I'm sorry to hear that your efforts look to have been in vain after what has been a tremendous amount of hard work. While it may not have a happy ending for your engine I'm sure we have all learnt a lot of useful information which may well be of help to others.

Best wishes for Christmas and the coming new year.

Got myself a mechanics stethoscope - should have bought one years ago.  The mechanical noise does not appear to be coming from the top end i.e. Camshaft/valve gear or HP Fuel Pump.

I suspect a failed big-end bearing or three but am a loss as to why they may have failed 30 miles into a test drive with good oil pressure. Maybe they were already close to failing due to the two previous episodes of blocked oil pump strainer.

As a last gasp effort, I'll drop the sump again and replace both the big-end and main bearing shells (FAI BB2018-STD and BM1012-STD) and remove/clean the three oil sprayers (CM5G-GB 12-18). If I spot any other issues (could be worn little-end bearings/cylinder bore damage) the car will go for auction/spares/repairs.

Admire your perseverance . Whilst getting the sump off will allow access to big ends I suspect the main bearing work would require more dismantling. Not even sure you could do it without separating gearbox from engine .  I think I read on this forum that torque settings for big ends and mains are not published as Ford regard it as a disposable engine not to be rebuilt. But keep us updated. I’m sure there’s a few of us wishing you the best of luck with it and waiting to hear the next instalment. 

Hello Ray as the old saying goes "God loves a trier"

I have to concur with Isetta, Ford do not expect  anyone to rebuild the bottom end of the 1.0 ecoboost. Are the parts even available ?

As you suggest, none of the parts are spareable from Ford (I've asked them), except for complete assemblies. I'll be using readily available aftermarket bearings but using the original bolts (as I can find no supplier). Not ideal but there are plenty of 'refurbishers' doing this.

For bolt torque I'll be referring to standardised maximum values published in engineering guidelines.

The connecting rod bolts of the 1.0 ECOboost are considered to be regular fully threaded high tensile steel bolts. These can be re-used without problems as long as the correct installation procedure is used.

Despite the fact that Ford considers the bottom end of the 1.0 ECOboost to be unserviceable (the same applies to most other Ford engines so this is not strange at all) there is still quite some information available from 3rd party sources.

Below some tightening torques I managed to obtain:

Connecting rod cap bolts

Stage 1: 8 Nm
Stage 2: 12 Nm
Stage 3: 18 Nm
Stage 4: 35°

Main bearing cap bolts

Stage 1: 10 Nm
Stage 2: 24 Nm
Stage 3: 30 Nm
Stage 4: 15°

Sump off today. Diagnosis confirmed as knocking big end bearing (No.2 cylinder location). Large amount of play (can't upload a video to show it).

Doesn't look good as the crankshaft journal has some scoring I can feel with my fingernail. 

I'll proceed and fit new the bearing shells but I'm not confident it will last. Looks like the car will go for spares/repairs after all.

Nb. It would of course be possible to remove and strip the engine, have the crankshaft ground, fit oversize bearings
etc. , however I don't have the equipment needed and to have it done at a garage would be too costly.

You could always pray for divine intervention and ask for it to be struck by a huge lighting bolt !!!

............but then again would the insurance pay out on an act of God ?

4 hours ago, unofix said:

You could always pray for divine intervention and ask for it to be struck by a huge lighting bolt !!!

............but then again would the insurance pay out on an act of God ?

If there's a god he/she/it certainly wasn't on my side with this car 😕

Hindsight is a curious and often frustrating thing, but if I were doing the job again, I should have checked the big end bearings when I had the sump,  oil pump and baffle off the first time.

If anyone is sorting (the relatively common) blocked oil pump issue I strongly suggest you/the garage check the bearings while exposed.

An update.

Worked on the engine out of interest and as a project. Took a while but pleased to say the car is now back on the road as of today.

Replacement crankshaft and con-rod/piston. All new main and big-end bearings, all bearing journals - crank, big ends, valve clearances checked dimensionally ok, new timing and oil pump belts. All debris from belts and bearings flushed throughout engine block, cylinder head and sump. Oil pump gauze strainer  scrupulously cleared again (3rd time).

15 mile test drive, all seems ok 🤞

Thanks to those who helped with tech. details and moral support.

Well done 👍 

Now quick, sell it before something goes wrong 

Ray.

I just got my own similar engine repaired.

There is also strainer in vacuum pump oil feed line.

It is inside vacuum pump and can be seen and easily cleaned if you remove vacuum pump , mine was completely blocked.

Just want to let you know since these engines has also suffered failed vacuum pumps and it is because of that oil starvation.

Also there was strainers inside vvt cam gears , those are inside that cam gear bolt and can be cleaned when you take out that circlip and disassemble those valves.

But i recommend that you clean that vacuum pump strainer , unless already done so.

Hello
Dude, you have provided very important and valuable information.
Thank you very much.
Do you have any pictures you could post to help us take this vacuum pump apart and check this strainer.
  I think this is a good way to diagnose the condition of the timing belt.
When the strainer is clean, the condition of the belt shows that it is not peeling.
greetings

Hi.

Here is a picture where you find that strainer :

https://aijaa.com/lqaucR

And this video shows you how to take your vacuum pump out:

 

 

Remember to buy new gasket.