31 minutes ago, ssm2200 said:

No need to apologisze, most companies would be delighted to have technical support like yours!

 

1. Yes - a cheap one, electronics not my forte

2. I thought about trying this but when I looked at the battery under the seat one of the terminals wasn't exposed. I thought I could possibly do from the engine bay as one terminal available there but I wasnt sure what to use as a ground for the other. I can look to remove that surround over the battery under the drivers.

3. Top spoiler mounted brake light works, the two side mounted ones within the taillight/indicator clusters do not

4. Yes High beam both sides work. High beam on the nearside headlight the only thing working there, the right side is headlight is fully operational. 

I found the jump start point and used that. 

Engine idle is about 14.6v, when revs to about 2000 rpm jumps up to 14.8v

It's dark, raining and this involved assistance from my wife so a team effort. I can repeat in better conditions tomorrow!

Thank you for the answers.

On your vehicle there are "Jump Start" points under the bonnet because of the problem of reaching the battery.

There will be the main positive terminal mounted near the bulk head protected by a red cover. The negative ground point will be near or part of the top of the front suspension studs. The actual ground point used is not that important so long as its a good solid earth (no paint or rust).

With the engine running at a fast idle expect to measure a voltage of 14.2V to 14.8V

The brake lights may be the key to the problems.

Remove both of the brake light bulbs that are not working. Buy two new ones even if they look perfect and you are sure they are OK. Replace both brake light bulbs with new ones and retest the brake lights.

Let me know the result of the battery voltage test and please let me know what happens when you fit two new brake light bulbs.

49 minutes ago, unofix said:

Back to basics !!  Sorry but I need to ask quite a few questions 🙄

1. Have you got a digital multimeter ?
2. Can you measure the battery voltage with the engine running at a fast idle ?
3. What is the situation with the brake lights ?
4. Please confirm both High Beam headlights work as normal ?

 

So 14.6V at idle at about 2000 rpm it goes to 14.8V. I read about jump starting and used that point.

It's dark, raining and I needed to get my wife invovled.  I can repeat again tomorrow in better conditions. 

39 minutes ago, unofix said:

Thank you for the answers.

On your vehicle there are "Jump Start" points under the bonnet because of the problem of reaching the battery.

There will be the main positive terminal mounted near the bulk head protected by a red cover. The negative ground point will be near or part of the top of the front suspension studs. The actual ground point used is not that important so long as its a good solid earth (no paint or rust).

With the engine running at a fast idle expect to measure a voltage of 14.2V to 14.8V

The brake lights may be the key to the problems.

Remove both of the brake light bulbs that are not working. Buy two new ones even if they look perfect and you are sure they are OK. Replace both brake light bulbs with new ones and retest the brake lights.

Let me know the result of the battery voltage test and please let me know what happens when you fit two new brake light bulbs.

Absolutely will do, I checked back CCTV from the house, brake lights had gone only just before I noticed the other issues so certainly all happened about the same time. Fingers crossed its as easy as bulb replacement. 

I'll keep you posted. Thanks again

 

The trailer module error is possibly caused by one or both of the ground wires to the module not been connected when it was installed. We can deal with issue once the main problems are sorted. 👍

12 hours ago, unofix said:

The trailer module error is possibly caused by one or both of the ground wires to the module not been connected when it was installed. We can deal with issue once the main problems are sorted. 👍

So unfortunately no success. 

 

I changed both brake bulbs they are the dual filament ones tail light and brake 

On restart, the offside brake light stays on permanately with the dipped beam. The nearside operates normally in terms of rear light. Netiher respond to the brake pedal. 

I have run another scan. Still not throwing up any other error codes beyond the trailer module. 

 

To be clear on the change, now when the vehicle lights are on the rear offside brake light is illuminated all the time. Pressing the brake makes no odds. THe nearside doesnt come on at all. Centre high brake still works as normal.

 

 

Might sound daft but have you tried swapping the headlight units over. See if the lighting faults follow the unit or not. It's the same type connector. Easy enough to remove headlights in minutes. Won't sort your rear lights yet. But I would concentrate on either sorting rear or front lights first. Swapping lights will determine bulb failures or wiring / bcm issue 

13 hours ago, unofix said:

The trailer module error is possibly caused by one or both of the ground wires to the module not been connected when it was installed. We can deal with issue once the main problems are sorted. 👍

So I had one of the brake ligjy bulbs in the wong way 🙄 now its in the right way same operation as before.. 

No change from changing brake lights. 

I have a bit of pressure to. Get thus on the road again so called a local auto electrician. He wasn't for getting involved in much but tested the connector to the headlight that doesnt work and said its definitely not being sent anything form the BCM. He just walked away after that said BCM either needs upgrade or replaced. 

19 minutes ago, iantt said:

Might sound daft but have you tried swapping the headlight units over. See if the lighting faults follow the unit or not. It's the same type connector. Easy enough to remove headlights in minutes. Won't sort your rear lights yet. But I would concentrate on either sorting rear or front lights first. Swapping lights will determine bulb failures or wiring / bcm issue 

Thanks for your comment, I see what you mean but possibly less relevant now the connector tested and nothing going to it? 

For thse still patient enough to be reading, I disconnected the battery today for a couple of hours. Having reset all codes last night the only one to immediately return was the TRM fault.

Having reconnected the battery and started the engine the headlight and other issues continue to be out. Reading DTC's 

Code: B1539 - Right Rear Position Lamp Output

Additional Fault Symptom (:15):
 - Circuit Short To Battery Or Open

Status (-08):
 - Previously Set DTC - Not Present at Time of Request
 - Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC

Module: Body Control Module
 

is the new and only fault in addition to the TRM. The right rear position lamp is illuminated properly and not out as this may suggest. Any assitance as always appreciated. 

 

Not sure where to go now with this other than to reset the BCM. I'm new to this though and don't want to risk creating a bigger problem than I have now by completely wiping a BCM.

Many thanks

Simon

1 hour ago, ssm2200 said:

For thse still patient enough to be reading,

I'm still here 😀. Been out all day and only just reading through the posts. I'll have a look through the full Ford wiring schematics to see if I can come up with some idea as to what to do next.

I like @iantt idea of swapping over the two headlight units to just confirm the issue. I know it has been said that there seems to be no power to the nearside headlight connector but it is controlled by the BCM which monitors the lights for open-circuits or short-circuits and can isolate the light if a fault is detected.

As regards the brake lights, the non-operation of the two main lights while the centre brake light works normally seems very strange, since as far as I know all 3 are on the same circuit (just going to check that now).

1 minute ago, unofix said:

I'm still here 😀. Been out all day and only just reading through the posts. I'll have a look through the full Ford wiring schematics to see if I can come up with some idea as to what to do next.

I like @iantt idea of swapping over the tow headlight units to just confirm the issue. I know it has been said that there seems to be no power to the nearside headlight connector but it is controlled by the BCM which monitors the lights for open-circuits or short-circuits and can isolate the light if a fault is detected.

As regards the brake lights, the non-operation of the two main lights while the centre brake light works normally seems very strange, since as far as I know all 3 are on the same circuit (just going to check that now).

I'll go try swapping the headlights see what happens. 

Swapped the headlights as suggested. Seems to have confirmed what was already suspected. Nearside headlight doesn't work on correct postion buy does if plugged on on the offside. Likewise offside headlight that does work where it should be doesnt work on nearside. 

Picture just to confirm Im actually carrying out these suggestions 😂

The rear brake lights and the centre brake light are on different circuits. 

Hi Simon, never doubted that you have been trying things 👍

So I've had a good look at the schematics and checked out a couple of things.

Firstly, much to my surprise (you learn something new everyday) the centre brake light is on its own circuit from the BCM, it's on connector C2280C pin 55 which explains why it can still be working while the other two are not.

Secondly, and this might have something to do with the problems is that the Trailer Module draws power from the nearside brake light circuit, connector C2280C pin 68

I have to say that sadly it's looking more and more as if you have a defective BCM as per my original thoughts 🙄

For one last roll of the dice before condemning the BCM, do you know where in the vehicle the trailer module is located ? If you can find it, then just unplug the connector from it, and see if there is any change to the lights. The indicator warning lights on your instrument cluster will go in to hyper-flash when the indicators are on, it's just a way of warning you that the trailer module is not working.

If all else fails then you may as well reset the BCM as there is nothing left to loose.

2 minutes ago, iantt said:

The rear brake lights and the centre brake light are on different circuits. 

I just said that 🤣🤣

we were both typing it at the same time 😀

Good call on the trailer module disconnect. Trailer module is behind the n/s/f plastic step cover. Need to remove the b pillar trim and the step trim. Says to remove the seat too but I've never bothered removing the seat. 

Might be water ingress in the trailer socket causing all sorts of issues, or water ingress into the bcm. The windscreens on some customs did leak past the windscreen sealant but can't remember what years they were. Is the custom 2.2 or 2.0 as the wiring diagrams are different. 

Ideally the bcm needs disconnecting, then removed for close inspection. 

2 hours ago, unofix said:

Hi Simon, never doubted that you have been trying things 👍

So I've had a good look at the schematics and checked out a couple of things.

Firstly, much to my surprise (you learn something new everyday) the centre brake light is on its own circuit from the BCM, it's on connector C2280C pin 55 which explains why it can still be working while the other two are not.

Secondly, and this might have something to do with the problems is that the Trailer Module draws power from the nearside brake light circuit, connector C2280C pin 68

I have to say that sadly it's looking more and more as if you have a defective BCM as per my original thoughts 🙄

For one last roll of the dice before condemning the BCM, do you know where in the vehicle the trailer module is located ? If you can find it, then just unplug the connector from it, and see if there is any change to the lights. The indicator warning lights on your instrument cluster will go in to hyper-flash when the indicators are on, it's just a way of warning you that the trailer module is not working.

If all else fails then you may as well reset the BCM as there is nothing left to loose.

Its pouring here I'll need to look at this tomorrow and try disconnecting the trailer module. 

What does resetting the BCM actual mean, does it do anything different to disconnecting the battery? I have read about cloning the BCM, should I try and save something just in case it does go wrong. If you had a link for resetting the BCM in Forscan that would be much appreciated? 

1 hour ago, iantt said:

Might be water ingress in the trailer socket causing all sorts of issues, or water ingress into the bcm. The windscreens on some customs did leak past the windscreen sealant but can't remember what years they were. Is the custom 2.2 or 2.0 as the wiring diagrams are different. 

Ideally the bcm needs disconnecting, then removed for close inspection. 

I'm a 2.0. BCM doesnt seem any easy one to access. Ive not worked out how to get to the trailer module you identified yet, the BCM seems harder still. Thank you

6 minutes ago, ssm2200 said:

I'm a 2.0. BCM doesnt seem any easy one to access. Ive not worked out how to get to the trailer module you identified yet, the BCM seems harder still. Thank you

 

I just wanted to say thanks very much for the advice and assistance. This is with the dealer now and confirmed BCM fault. They state there are slight sligns of water corrosion. Mechanic told me it's a common fault and they have a fix to prevent it happening again.

Very disappointing from Ford as its a design flaw in now way attributed to the user. I jave raised this issue with them. 

Hopefully I'll get the van back soon. Eye watering cost on a 4 year old vehicle and I'll certain fight this isnt a reasonable expense. 

Many thanks 

Thanks for coming back and updating us with the problem.

I did fear it was going to be the BCM and the costs involved. Even using a second hand part and programing it yourself it would still typically cost £450 because of the rarity of a Transit 2018 BCM.

Good luck, I hope you at least get it repaired quickly.

 

On 3/20/2023 at 5:44 PM, unofix said:

Hi Simon, never doubted that you have been trying things 👍

So I've had a good look at the schematics and checked out a couple of things.

Firstly, much to my surprise (you learn something new everyday) the centre brake light is on its own circuit from the BCM, it's on connector C2280C pin 55 which explains why it can still be working while the other two are not.

Secondly, and this might have something to do with the problems is that the Trailer Module draws power from the nearside brake light circuit, connector C2280C pin 68

I have to say that sadly it's looking more and more as if you have a defective BCM as per my original thoughts 🙄

For one last roll of the dice before condemning the BCM, do you know where in the vehicle the trailer module is located ? If you can find it, then just unplug the connector from it, and see if there is any change to the lights. The indicator warning lights on your instrument cluster will go in to hyper-flash when the indicators are on, it's just a way of warning you that the trailer module is not working.

If all else fails then you may as well reset the BCM as there is nothing left to loose.

Excuse me for hijacking a post, but this exact problem has happened to my 2019 tourneo custom, all lights are working properly, but when I flick the indicator switch the dashboard indicators go at x2 speed.

when I plugged in our trailer, the trailer brake lights, and indicators do not work.

the trailer lights also stay on even after turning off the ignition and removing the key.

the trailer has only been used twice, back in early and mid december, with this issue arising a few days after the last tow.

I want to try to unplug the trailer control module but i do not know how to access, all the instructions say to unscrew the passenger side door step, but my tourneo doesn't have any screws? attached a photo, excuse the mud.

I am a complete novice, who is trying to fix the problem due to lack of personal funds!

any help would be much appreciated!

It is held in with only 2 fixings. The bolt is hidden by the side of the seat trim.

This is the parts location catalogue:-

https://catalogs.ssg.asia/ford/?lang=en#bWFya2V0PT1ldXJvfHxjYXRfaWQ9PTEyOTE2fHxjYWJicj09R0NUR3x8dGhrPT0zfHxzdD09NjB8fHN0cz09eyIyMCI6IkV1cm9wZSIsIjMwIjoiVHJhbnNpdCBUVEcgMjAxNC0iLCI0MCI6IjUgQm9keSBBbmQgUGFpbnQiLCI1MCI6IjUwMTA1IEJvZHkgQW5kIFBhaW50LkludGVyaW9yIFRyaW0gQW5kIEluc3RhbGxhdGlvbiIsIjYwIjoiNTAxMDUwNUEgRmxvb3IgVHJpbSJ9fHxDQT09Q0FLQTB8fERSPT1EUjBDMHx8YWxwaGE9PTV8fGdyb3VwPT01MDEwNXx8c2VjdD09NTAwNEFHUXx8c2V0PT1URzUwMTA1fHxpbWc9PUswMjg2NjU4MDZ8fGYxMj09LTk3MzAzNDI0MCsxMzc%3D