Just now, Laminator93 said:

I’m putting the key in. Back and forth four times. Chimes. Press button on fob. Chimes again. But then no matter what I do next it simply won’t recognise me pressing. Any keys on the fob 

LOL, why are you continuing to try and program the fob?? All it needs is the battery to work 🤣

Just now, StephenFord said:

Now, unless it's an optical illusion, those bottom contacts look as if they are bent downwards, where they should be bent up to contact the battery...

Bent upwards

Just now, StephenFord said:

LOL, why are you continuing to try and program the fob?? All it needs is the battery to work 🤣

I was not sure if me taking the battery out will disconnect it from the car, hence reprogramming required 

I've had problems with this type of battery in the past. I once had a battery that gave a good reading on the volt meter, but when I replaced it with a different brand which gave a similar reading, the key worked. I personally recommend Energiser batteries.

8 minutes ago, Janner7859 said:

... I personally recommend Energiser batteries.

Or:

• Citizen
• Duracell
• Maxell
• Panasonic
• Rayovac
• Renata
• Sony/MuRata
• Seiko

If they push out 3.3v, they'll all work...

21 minutes ago, StephenFord said:

Or:

• Citizen
• Duracell
• Maxell
• Panasonic
• Rayovac
• Renata
• Sony/MuRata
• Seiko

If they push out 3.3v, they'll all work...

I have literally just went out and purchased 2 new energiser batteries. Still nothing.

Just now, Laminator93 said:

I have literally just went out and purchased 2 new energiser batteries. Still nothing.

 

Houston we have a problem !!

Look very closely at the photos below. You will see in your photo the contact in the circle is actually making contact with the edge of the battery, that is wrong. The edge of the battery and the top we can see in the photo is the 'positive'. That contact is the connection to the underside of the battery negative and should not be touching the side. What has happened is the contact has been bent and is now making contact with the positive (wrong) and at the same time the negative of the battery and has shorted it out. The battery will now be flat and will need replaced. The contact needs to be adjusted so that it is clear of the side (and top) of the battery. The fingers underneath need to be given a gentle bend up to touch the underside and make contach with the negative.

Look at the photo of @StephenFord keyfob and you will see the contact in the circle does not make contact with the side of the battery.

2 minutes ago, unofix said:

Houston we have a problem !!

Look very closely at the photos below. You will see in your photo the contact in the circle is actually making contact with the edge of the battery, that is wrong. The edge of the battery and the top we can see in the photo is the 'positive'. That contact is the connection to the underside of the battery negative and should not be touching the side. What has happened is the contact has been bent and is now making contact with the positive (wrong) and at the same time the negative of the battery and has shorted it out. The battery will now be flat and will need replaced. The contact needs to be adjusted so that it is clear of the side (and top) of the battery. The fingers underneath need to be given a gentle bend up to touch the underside and make contach with the negative.

Look at the photo of @StephenFord keyfob and you will see the contact in the circle does not make contact with the side of the battery.

This is how the pins are now. Is this correct? 

1 minute ago, Laminator93 said:

This is how the pins are now. Is this correct? 

From above

That looks correct now. However if that battery has been shorted out it will be flat (or nearly). 👍

1 minute ago, unofix said:

That looks correct now. However if that battery has been shorted out it will be flat (or nearly). 👍

If this works out, get the cigars out 😂

2 minutes ago, unofix said:

That looks correct now. However if that battery has been shorted out it will be flat (or nearly). 👍

Completely new battery fitted and still doesn’t work. 

Time to put the kettle on and regroup 🤔

OK on to plan 'B'  sorry plan 'C' wrong again probably plan 'D' 🤣

Do you have a multimeter ? If so you need to check the voltage on the battery clips of the keyfob (see photo). Something just doesn't seem right. I suspect either a clip is not making contact or that we still have a clip touching both sides of the battery. It's difficult to tell from the photos but it does look like the positive clip might not be making contact, or it could just be the angle of the picture.

2 minutes ago, unofix said:

OK on to plan 'B'  sorry plan 'C' wrong again probably plan 'D' 🤣

Do you have a multimeter ? If so you need to check the voltage on the battery clips of the keyfob (see photo). Something just doesn't seem right. I suspect either a clip is not making contact or that we still have a clip touching both sides of the battery. It's difficult to tell from the photos but it does look like the positive clip might not be making contact, or it could just be the angle of the picture.

Sorry I don’t have a multimeter. The car still picks up that the key exists as tried to do the reprogram to be sure it hadn’t Broken, and it still picks the key up when I press a button on it.

Have you cleaned the points where the battery contacts touch the circuit board. Clean with switch cleaner or methylated spirit. If you have switch cleaner, spray around the miniature push buttons on the PCB. The buttons are probably sealed but it can't do any harm. 

Hi all. So I have replaced the battery with several new ones. Clean everything. Checked the connections with a multimeter. Reprogrammed the key. Still nothing. Could this be a fuse on the car perhaps? The key doesn’t seem to have a problem 

On 8/1/2023 at 11:06 PM, unofix said:

At this point I'd just use FORScan, and delete all keys and reprogramme in the keys you have. It could well be after so many attempts the car has reached it's limit on adding keys.

Without carrying out diagnostics with FORScan, deleting all keys and re-adding those that you have with FORScan I doubt you will make any progress.

 

22 hours ago, unofix said:

Without carrying out diagnostics with FORScan, deleting all keys and re-adding those that you have with FORScan I doubt you will make any progress.

 

I will be honest I have tried everything I can and I’m not going to start buying extra equipment and everything as the car is only cheap anyway. I will just keep messing around with it and hope it eventually works 

39 minutes ago, Laminator93 said:

buying extra equipment

I would have thought £19.95 would have been worth it just to get things working again. If you do get it working it would be great if you call back and let us know what the fix was, it could help other members in the future.

I have a problem after replacing my key fob battery,  2011 (61) Zetec 1.4 

I don't have a spare key, so whilst I had the key fob separated into two parts I tried  using the mechanical blade section of the key on it's own. It opened the car and switched on the ignition, but I did not try to start the engine.

Having replaced the battery I put the two parts of the fob together again and it all worked properly, except for the fact that if I open the car and don't switch on the ignition, when I close the door the footwell lights go out but the dashboard and radio lights stay on. They only go off if I lock the car.

I don't have a spare key and can't remember having one when I bought it 6 years ago. If I bought a spare, would a manual blade be sufficient to operate everything, or would I need to get the whole electronics fob again and what is the cost likely to be.

Would the car have originally had a spare key when new?

3 minutes ago, Fiesta 35 said:

If I bought a spare, would a manual blade be sufficient to operate everything,..

Read this thread again. The key blade on it's own will not start the car. The fob, with buttons or without, will have a built in transponder which will deactivate the PATS immobiliser system just being in proximity to the ignition barrel, it's passive (does not need a battery to work).

If you want a working spare, go to an independent local locksmith who'll be able to cut the blade, and program the fob to start the car. (do not use Timpsons!)

Thanks, I will do that.

Any ideas about why the dashboard lights now stay on after the footwell lights go out when you get out of the car and close the door, and will only go out when you lock the car?

59 minutes ago, Fiesta 35 said:

Any ideas about why the dashboard lights now stay on after the footwell lights go out when you get out of the car and close the door, and will only go out when you lock the car?

The Ford range of cars fitted with the Red centre display in the instrument cluster (2008 - 2012) all leave the dashboard lights on until the doors are locked. Some like the Kuga and Mondeo leave the lights on for around 10 minutes after the door are locked.