On 8/5/2023 at 5:19 PM, unofix said:

I would have thought £19.95 would have been worth it just to get things working again. If you do get it working it would be great if you call back and let us know what the fix was, it could help other members in the future.

Is it only £19.95 I would need to pay then? I guess I am just apprehensive buying more stuff, as already spent nearly £15 on batteries because I was told the first set wasn’t the right type, just to find out the second set doesn’t work either. Hence why I have said about the fuse etc 

9 hours ago, Laminator93 said:

... as already spent nearly £15 on batteries because I was told the first set wasn’t the right type...

You said you don't have a multimeter, BUY ONE!! If all you ever use it for is to test the voltage of a battery, it'll be worth it as around £7, every man should have it in his, 'bits drawer'! You needlessly spent twice that unnecessarily on batteries you didn't need just because you couldn't test that the 1st one was pumping out 3.3v!

1 hour ago, StephenFord said:

You said you don't have a multimeter, BUY ONE!! If all you ever use it for is to test the voltage of a battery, it'll be worth it as around £7, every man should have it in his, 'bits drawer'! You needlessly spent twice that unnecessarily on batteries you didn't need just because you couldn't test that the 1st one was pumping out 3.3v!

It’s not so much that. I purchased Duracell batteries and was advised that due to coating on them that I should try a different brand of batteries. I then used my brothers multimeter to test the batteries. 

How do you spend £15 on 2032 batteries?  I bought a few Panasonic for £1.50 a pair posted earlier in the year.  

Anyway, if I'm reading right, the locking function stopped working on your keyfob - and you made the assumption that was caused by a low battery?  Was the original battery tested?  If not, the locking failure may have been caused by a faulty PCB or a faulty signal pickup in the car.  It may be nothing to do with the battery at all.

55 minutes ago, TomsFocus said:

...  Was the original battery tested?  ...

Great point! For decades, the first thing I do when replacing any battery (and I do many 'watch' changes for friends/family) is test the battery I take out. If it's good, immediately you know the fault is with something else...

1 hour ago, StephenFord said:

Great point! For decades, the first thing I do when replacing any battery (and I do many 'watch' changes for friends/family) is test the battery I take out. If it's good, immediately you know the fault is with something else...

Well all I know is when putting a new battery in it let me resync it with the car, so I think it isn’t the fob. How would I check the pcb? Literally no idea so any help Would be great.

1 minute ago, Laminator93 said:

Well all I know is when putting a new battery in it let me resync it with the car..

Sorry, I genuinely have no idea what you mean by that...

1 minute ago, StephenFord said:

Sorry, I genuinely have no idea what you mean by that...

Apologies. TomsFocus said about a faulty PCB.

6 minutes ago, Laminator93 said:

Apologies. TomsFocus said about a faulty PCB.

Tom is correct, however you said the key allowed you to 'resync', I have no idea what that means...

Just now, StephenFord said:

Tom is correct, however you said the key allowed you to 'resync', I have no idea what that means...

Sorry I meant it let me put it in, turn it 4 times and then press a key to resync it to the car again. 

14 minutes ago, Laminator93 said:

Well all I know is when putting a new battery in it let me resync it with the car, so I think it isn’t the fob. How would I check the pcb? Literally no idea so any help Would be great.

When you put the key in the ignition, the car reads a proximity chip in the casing.  That's totally separate from the buttons and locking function.  Are you sure it was beeping when you pressed a button?

You can check the PCB by eye, looking any cracked solder joints or burnt/damaged components.  Though ultimately it can still be damaged even if you can't see anything.  If you take it into a key cutters, they should have a radio frequency tester, that will test whether your key is giving out a signal when buttons are pressed or not. 

2 minutes ago, Laminator93 said:

Sorry I meant it let me put it in, turn it 4 times and then press a key to resync it to the car again. 

We've been here before, to enter programming mode, it is the built in transponder that allows that which is built into your key, totally passive, does not need a battery, just that the key is in proximity to the ignition barrel. As they say in Dragons Den... I'm out...

3 hours ago, StephenFord said:

We've been here before, to enter programming mode, it is the built in transponder that allows that which is built into your key, totally passive, does not need a battery, just that the key is in proximity to the ignition barrel. As they say in Dragons Den... I'm out...

I don’t get how this makes any sense though, as took the battery out and tried it, and it did not respond. It only responded to the programming when a battery was in. I’m not trying to say you are wrong, I’m just saying that’s not how it worked for me

3 hours ago, TomsFocus said:

When you put the key in the ignition, the car reads a proximity chip in the casing.  That's totally separate from the buttons and locking function.  Are you sure it was beeping when you pressed a button?

You can check the PCB by eye, looking any cracked solder joints or burnt/damaged components.  Though ultimately it can still be damaged even if you can't see anything.  If you take it into a key cutters, they should have a radio frequency tester, that will test whether your key is giving out a signal when buttons are pressed or not. 

Yes 100%. I even had my brother check it with me. It 10% picks up that the key and fob attached are intact, as would beep if inserted without the fob attached.