Hi, I have posted before but still having issues..

Briefly car was butchered I months ago..DPF was gutted and supposedly mapped out but cocked up .I have since been elsewhere and had a replacement ECU DPFand EGR mapped out .Recently I had what was initially thought to be a faulty turbo  because intermittent excessive smoke so it was changed...been good for a few days but today it done it again it was like a fog machine,  grey smoke everywhere 1/2 her latter nothing review it not a puff..thinking now poss injector, it could it be something else ie a sensor as the fan came on but temps where normal..if injector is there a easy to test, or can I just get one and change them out till I hit the right one...

Sorry if long post but scratching my head lol

 

Unburnt diesel smoke and rad fan running sounds like it's still trying the regen the DPF.

Fuel is injected 'post combustion' so that it doesn't burn in the cylinder but flows into the exhaust and ignites when it hits the hot cat.

That was funny because when I turned of the engine smoke still wafting out of the exhaust... if it is still trying to do a regen how do I cure it, the garage that done it has got a good rep, plus he done the work about 3 months ago and been fine till now

 

1 hour ago, ukmartian said:

That was funny because when I turned of the engine smoke still wafting out of the exhaust... if it is still trying to do a regen how do I cure it, the garage that done it has got a good rep, plus he done the work about 3 months ago and been fine till now

The only cure would be to have the mapping adjusted.

There are different ways of mapping them out.  There's a 'failsafe' regen every 500 miles or so on these.  If they've just switched off the pressure sensor input, that failsafe regen may still be active.

I know you don't want to do any service procedures with Forscan but it would be worth doing a PCM scan for any fault codes that may have been triggered today.  

I have a code reader, if anygood  but could research how to check...but would that cause probs with revs...come of accelerator rpm drops to 500 bounces to about 1200 then settled at about 850 that's what happens a couple of times when it started smoking

 

Just checked with my OBD reader " no codes are stored in the module" ...started up from cold hard rev 4000rpm  no smoke..

Generic code readers only read generic codes.  Needs to be something Ford specific such as Forscan to see the hidden codes.

I wouldn't expect the rev bounce from a regen.  Not ruling out an injector fault, but wouldn't start replacing those without codes.

You can send them away for testing but that's very expensive nowadays and not really possible to DIY.

Was thinking of getting one off EBay then changing them one at a time till it stops doing it, I was told you wouldn't gave to code it that way, could you point me in the direction of how to check with forscan, my son may be able to work it out  thanks

Can injectors have intermittent faults ?

13 hours ago, ukmartian said:

Can injectors have intermittent faults ?

Yes.  When dirt builds up inside them, it can move about and jam the injector open for a short while, then it'll move again and the injector can close again. Though as it seems to be several weeks between your faults, it does seem less likely.

The alternative is that you've got a wiring fault, which is more likely to be intermittent, and that could be the cause of the rev bounce and the rad fan coming on as a default failsafe if the PCM suddenly loses some of the sensor inputs at that point.  If that is happening, Forscan will almost certainly show some codes for that.

 

13 hours ago, ukmartian said:

Was thinking of getting one off EBay then changing them one at a time till it stops doing it, I was told you wouldn't gave to code it that way, could you point me in the direction of how to check with forscan, my son may be able to work it out  thanks

The injectors should be coded on these.  The PCM will try to adapt but if you're moving one injector about it's going to get horribly confused by that.  Injector coding is really very simple with Forscan though.  It's just typing a number into a box.  Even if you get it wrong by a digit or two, it'll still run, just not at optimal efficiency.

Forscan can be used on a Windows laptop or Smartphone.  I used a switchable cable and laptop for years on Mk2's so you should be fine with this cable - Modified ELM327 USB (fwscart.com)  Though there is also the V Linker cable for around £35 which works on newer models as well if you have any of those in the family.

There are probably YouTube videos about Forscan that can show the process more effectively than I can write it.  Module scanning is very simple and intuitive, so as long as your son uses a phone or laptop regularly, I'm sure he'll be able to manage it.

Live data graphs and service procedures are a little more involved, but for now I'd just start with a global scan of all modules.

This was this morning intermittent smoke gone now smoking black  when on load suspecting injectors can't afford new car any idea on cheapest way to isolate suspect injector / injectors please this was after just over  mile, I wondered why cars were holding back .

Smoking black under load isn't likely to be injectors.  That's usually a boost leak.  Not enough air to completely burn the fuel.

There is no cheap way to isolate a faulty injector unless it shows up on diagnostics. 

You can try a leak-off test if you like, but they aren't a definitive test.

15 minutes ago, TomsFocus said:

Smoking black under load isn't likely to be injectors.  That's usually a boost leak.  Not enough air to completely burn the fuel.

Well said I spoke to a diesel mech this morning and he said the same as your plus the fact there is no excessive noise and that has been intermittent  and getting worse. I was told the the turbo boost was down and combined with smoke we assumed turbo so changed it...now all that has been done I wonder if all the moving things about has made it worse, so next job will check intercooler and pipes...thanks for the input we are learning...lol

Today we removed intercooler and boost pipes the pipe from the  I/C to the throttle body was oiled up along with the sensors  the boost pipe to the I/Chad a small tear under the jubilee clip, we have washed out the I/C with petrol no signs off visible damage .the boost pipe from new turbo was clear going to order new pipes and clips I don't know if anything between throttle body and inlet could cause any probs, any ideas..

The short rubber pipe above the TB is worth checking while you're there.  That can crack around the concertina section.

Apart from that, the metal pipe on the other side of the IC can crack around the welds.  Not sure if you checked that one earlier.

We will check the metal pipe tomorrow but not sure which short rubber pipe you mean there are no concertinas it is moulded  see photo

Everything has now been checked or replaced, all boost pipes new throttle body removed but no evidence of oil or gunk, but cleaned anyhow, deposits just inside manifold around EGR valve pipe so cleaned  everything put back together, started first time a bit lumpy and smokey for a few mins, idled to temperature reved 4000 rpm small amount of smoke. Turn off tidied up and went for a short drive 100yards later smoking heavy revs bouncing when take foot off black smoke and fan on....left for 5 mins tried again checked for any codes, no smoke, fan off no codes stored...what should I check next   .ps I am not a mech, just following instructions and learning   lol

Has there been a compression test done on the cylinders ?

No nothing like that...just doing what I can do, is it something I can do myself,

4 minutes ago, ukmartian said:

is it something I can do myself,

Yes if you have the kit. Prices range from around £15 to over £80 but all you need is something basic. See Amazon for an example of the kits available. Just make sure you get one for a diesel engine.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/diesel-compression-tester/s?k=diesel+compression+tester&s=price-asc-rank&qid=1692377925&ref=sr_st_price-asc-rank&ds=v1%3AwCZj3evHtl1gd6f8rrIeFEdXSyDQ2VGzBy0cEjVIj0U

I may invest in a cheap kit but , if compression issues  why does the fault disappear when turned of and restarted a few mins later and then ok for a while  plus the fan is running when hardly up to temp only went out for 5 mins round the block . Lol

Ps I am not a mechanic...yet

Did you ever get Forscan?

The fact that the fan runs at the same time is still suggesting that this is either a remap issue or a wiring fault to me.

Generic OBD scanner isn't likely to be any use if the engine light doesn't come on.

 

Next on the list..now...what sort off wiring fault   .one thing I am fair with is wiring was a service engineer for 30 years, but car electrics are a bit different, but like you I thought it strange  the fan comes on....hardly ever known it till I got this problem. ..but was fine for several months after remap unless something has gone wrong on that score, is it ***** the the regen has somehow reactivated??

 

Same as domestic electrical faults really - broken wires, loose connections or corroded plugs. 

PCM plugs would be the best ones to start with.  The PCM is in a tamper proof casing but if yours was removed then I doubt they'll have refitted tamper proof screws.

As for regen, Forscan may be able to tell you when the last regen was attempted.  Not sure if it can on this engine or not.