Hi all,

Just hoping for some advice....

 

All started with a notification on the app about a charging system fault which cleared itself but since then plagued with the "remote features disabled" message and system off to save power. 

My start stop has always worked but more often than not have no lights when getting in the car and often the Keyless entry doesn't work on the passenger side. 

Went into ford a few weeks ago, they apparently charged the battery and said no issues.... 5 days later same issues again and then after 1 day of no use car went into deep sleep mode. 

Went in to Ford again this week and they said battery is fine... Just needs a charge... So they charged it for around 3 hours. 

I drove home which is about 3 miles... Get in the car the next day and drive 20 mins. Get out and same usual ford pass message, remote features disabled. 

After reading on here I got a smart charger and have tonight connected it. 

When I connected it showed 12.1v and the second battery indicator level was flashing. 

It has now been on charge for 1 hour 45 mins and is now flicking between 13v to 13.1 and is showing as fully charged... 

Surely this can't be right to have charged so quickly? 

If anyone can advise it would be greatly appreciated 😊

 

Using a standard 'Smart' battery charger like a Maypole then you need to fully charge the battery for a minimum of 12 hours. Disregard all voltage readings while the battery is on charge.

Are you charging the battery while it is still fitted and connected to the vehicle, which is the correct and preferred option ?

Do you have the negative lead of the battery charger connected to the vehicle chassis earth point which is correct,  and not the battery terminal.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Maypole-7423A-Battery-Charger-Electronic/dp/B009A83P1E/ref=sr_1_2?crid=3II5ZMSLJB9TU&keywords=maypole+battery+charger&qid=1697313217&quartzVehicle=29-10519&replacementKeywords=maypole+battery&sprefix=maypole+battery%2Caps%2C114&sr=8-2

Thanks for the reply @unofix much appreciated.

I am using the Maypole charger you've posted - seen it recommended on here lots so had ordered that one 😉

And yes battery is still fitted in vehicle and have connected the eyelets so I can leave in permanently... Negative connected to chassis earth point. 

I turned it off after a few hours last night as worried about leaving it overnight whilst it was flickering  between 13.0.. 13.1...13.4 - pic attached. 

It's definitely not fully charged because the parking sensors have reverted back to that annoying high pitched tone that always happens when the battery starts to drop and that was just after 2 x 15 min journeys this morning. 

I will leave it on all day when I'm working from home next and ignore the voltage reading as you say. 

Edited October 15, 20232 yr by magic14
Add pic

Mine is often on charge overnight, the battery charger can not over charge the battery.

The voltage will constantly change during the charging cycle. It will ramp up, hold for awhile and then fall back to about 13.0V and then repeat the cycle, that's how it operates.

The maximum current the the charger can supply is only 4 Amps so if the battery has a low state of charge it will take a full 12 hours, possibly longer to recharge the battery. Remember while it is charging the car is still drawing current from the battery and so the demand on the battery charger is not a constant load.

On a big plus @StephenFord will be chuffed to bits that you have a Maypole charger 🤣

Haha during my research I had seen @StephenFord name appear many a time! 😂 And also you  too @unofix so thank you both very much for your helpful advice on these posts, it really is appreciated 👍

And thanks for the info here... I had read it can't overcharge but I'm always a little scared when it comes to electricity, cars & batteries! 😱🙄 

I had also been reading about altering the SOC using forscan but scares the hell out of me too.... Despite the fact I'm actually a techy 🙄

 

32 minutes ago, magic14 said:

I had also been reading about altering the SOC using forscan but scares the hell out of me too.... 

Just give it a charge from time to time if you're nervous of messing. I started getting the "systems off to save battery message" on my previous Mk 8 Fiesta and just gave it a full cycle on a smart charger as and when. No problems in 5 years.

The message came up on my current one after only a few months from new as posted elsewhere, so out with the charger again. Seems to be just the way things are with modern cars.

NB your profile could do with an update if you now have a Mk 4.5 Focus😀

What capacity is the MHEV battery on Mk4.5?

In theory, they can get away with a smaller battery than full ICE as the hybrid battery is used for stop start.  It may not have much 'spare' capacity before dropping into a low SOC state.

2 hours ago, TomsFocus said:

What capacity is the MHEV battery on Mk4.5?

Not a lot. I think @iantt mentioned on another thread it was 8 Ah on a Puma, assume Focus would be similar?

4 hours ago, Eric Bloodaxe said:

NB your profile could do with an update if you now have a Mk 4.5 Focus😀

Thanks will see how I get on with the charging once I've done a full charge. 

Profile updated... Rather depressing having to change my age range! 🙄😂

On 10/15/2023 at 12:46 PM, TomsFocus said:

What capacity is the MHEV battery on Mk4.5?

In theory, they can get away with a smaller battery than full ICE as the hybrid battery is used for stop start.  It may not have much 'spare' capacity before dropping into a low SOC state.

Same capacity main battery

Something odd going on with the OP's car then. 🤔

On 10/15/2023 at 10:45 AM, magic14 said:

Thanks for the reply @unofix much appreciated.

I am using the Maypole charger you've posted - seen it recommended on here lots so had ordered that one 😉

And yes battery is still fitted in vehicle and have connected the eyelets so I can leave in permanently... Negative connected to chassis earth point. 

I turned it off after a few hours last night as worried about leaving it overnight whilst it was flickering  between 13.0.. 13.1...13.4 - pic attached. 

It's definitely not fully charged because the parking sensors have reverted back to that annoying high pitched tone that always happens when the battery starts to drop and that was just after 2 x 15 min journeys this morning. 

I will leave it on all day when I'm working from home next and ignore the voltage reading as you say. 

My Harley is almost permanently connected, i.e. when in my garage, to that make/model of charger and after 5 years from new the original bike battery is still good. They are designed not just to be chargers, but also to maintain a vehicle's battery. 

On 10/17/2023 at 4:05 PM, TomsFocus said:

Something odd going on with the OP's car then. 🤔

Something definitely very odd going on.... Battery was left on charge from Tuesday 11.30am until 6am Wednesday morning. 

Today... So 4 days later... 110 miles driven... Remote features disabled to preserve battery life, annoying high pitch parking sensor noise so I'm guessing the battery has already dropped and will not be long before the stupid thing is in deep sleep 🙄

No idea what to do next apart from keep the thing on charge every 3 days as Ford keep claiming the remote features disabled is correct behaviour and ignoring the battery doesn't hold charge and saying there is nothing wrong with the battery 😞

 

Eta. 

Not sure if it has anything to do with it or just coincidence.. But this morning the display had a meltdown... No time, no temperature and icons missing. All OK after I got to my destination and then when leaving turned the car back on. 

Take it back to your dealer. Explain that you are giving them one last chance to rectify to fault and if they fail or refuse to investigate then you are going to reject the vehicle which you are legally allowed to do.

This normally is the kick up the backside that a Ford dealer seems to need these days. Probably also worth contacting Ford customer relations and telling them the same. You normally find things will happen very quickly as it costs both Ford and the dealer 'MONEY' and that's when they become very interested.

39 minutes ago, unofix said:

Take it back to your dealer. Explain that you are giving them one last chance to rectify to fault and if they fail or refuse to investigate then you are going to reject the vehicle which are legally allowed to do.

This normally is the kick up the backside that a Ford dealer seems to need these days. Probably also worth contacting Ford customer relations and telling them the same. You normally find things will happen very quickly as it costs both Ford and the dealer 'MONEY' and that's when they become very interested.

Thanks Unofix. 

Funnily enough the last Fiesta I had I actually did reject due to numerous electrical faults 🙄 it actually went through the Ombudsman. 

I'll get on to customer relations tomorrow and then speak to the dealer again 🤞🤞

Well just a little update.... 

Registered with Ford customer relations, they followed up with the dealer today in preparation for when my car goes back Friday. 

I've just spoken again with the  dealer and they've  just told me there is no issue with the battery and that they have informed customer relations that the remote features disabled message is a feature and doesn't mean there is an issue 🙄

So we shall see what Friday holds! 🤔

3 hours ago, magic14 said:

I've just spoken again with the  dealer and they've  just told me there is no issue with the battery and that they have informed customer relations that the remote features disabled message is a feature and doesn't mean there is an issue

You have to admire the ..... is it stupidity or the pure gall of the dealership ?

23 minutes ago, unofix said:

You have to admire the ..... is it stupidity or the pure gall of the dealership ?

By that logic, the answer to the many threads on here regarding warning lights/messages etc, is "no, it's not a problem, it's just a feature"😀

Trouble is they are technically correct.  The deep sleep function is a feature, not a fault.

The fault is the frequency at which it's happening despite suitable drive cycles...but that can't be proven easily. 

I'm pretty sure Friday's result will be 'no fault found'.

It reminds me very much of when you ring a tech support helpline and they won't veer from the script! 🙄

I have said multiple times I get it is a feature but it shouldn't be happening after 4 days of a charge of 17 odd hours! Still the same answer, beyond frustrating!

I have still been reading around in the hope I find someone with the exact same issue 😂 and interestingly came across a post regarding similar issues and one bit where they were saying that the glove box light remains on. 

So today I've done a test and sure enough it remains on... Even 15 mins after the vehicle has been locked. And yes when closing it the catch clearly doesn't connect enough to depress the switch. 

But would that cause such a drain? Obviously I don't know how long it stays on for mind you, I was too impatient after 15 mins to see if it was still on and shortly off to abandon my car at Ford's 😂

Well just a quick update.... 

Squealing noise when moving off after being parked up... Corrosion on discs and being replaced by dealership. 

Battery drain test showed no issues apparently and everything was shutting down as expected. 

Question for those of you far more knowledgeable than me if you don't mind... Does it matter if the battery is practically dead when a drain test is performed? 

New glove box ordered as not shutting properly and light not going off. 

Car booked back in for a few weeks to have all the work done and then apparently they are keeping it indefinitely until they find the issue with the battery so will have a rental car until it's resolved.. 

Quite suprised and pleased by the complete change in attitude after the  stand offish attitude previously 

2 hours ago, magic14 said:

Does it matter if the battery is practically dead when a drain test is performed?

Yes. If the battery voltage (SOC) is low then it is quite possible that the cause of the drain may have already turned itself off to 'conserve power'

A test for parasitic draws should always be preformed with a fully charged healthy battery. This maximizes the possibility of what ever the cause of the current draw is to become apparent.  

9 hours ago, unofix said:

Yes. If the battery voltage (SOC) is low then it is quite possible that the cause of the drain may have already turned itself off to 'conserve power'

A test for parasitic draws should always be preformed with a fully charged healthy battery. This maximizes the possibility of what ever the cause of the current draw is to become apparent.  

Thanks Unofix... Much appreciated. 

I'm glad you answered and said that as that is pretty much what I asked... I said surely things will have turned off to conserve power due to the car being in deep sleep mode and the guy assured me this wasn't the case as the modules would still be active. 

I'll raise this again when the car goes back in a few weeks. 

Well just a little update... 

After getting back the car the other week it wouldn't get out of deep sleep mode no matter where i drove, making sure everything was off like heated seats etc... Driving like miss daisy to try and boost the charge and watching the monitor like a hawk 😂...

So charged it up for 14 hrs... Lasted 2 days before remote features disabled 🙄

Then this Wednesday morning took it off charge after charging for 23 hours... 

This morning... Deep sleep mode so didn't even last 48 hours 

Only just over a week before it is booked into go back... Typically it's coincided with the drop in temperature so I have to freeze to death every morning as limited heating 😫

Safe to say the glove box light staying on isn't the main cause of the issue like Ford was hoping as it's been disconnected yet the problem has gotten worse. 

2 hours ago, magic14 said:

Driving like miss daisy to try and boost the charge...

Out of interest, why are you driving more carefully?  I'd expect the alternator to produce more power at higher RPM's when it's physically spinning more quickly.

I know there's been debate about this before.  But the alternator on my 'other' car doesn't charge at idle, battery light comes on if I try to use any electrical consumers at a standstill.  But once cruising on the road at higher RPM it charges fine.