Hi

I am about to purchase a new car and have chosen a Ford Focus (Mk2?) 1.8l FFV / Flexi Fuel Q7DA Engine code. 
 

I shall attach the VIN plate if it helps identify the car better in terms of specification.

Is this engine any good or should I run away from it at all cost!

Car has done approx 120k miles. 

A few things to note on inspection:

 

Front N/S Wheel vibration (told wheel needs balancing) over 50/60mph

Rear subframe surface corrosion

Missing locking wheel nut key

Oil around coil packs

Rear clunk noise / unsure what suspension component this could be (or maybe an exhaust hanger?) - again told this was the rear dampers but who knows…

 

 

Hi Will and welcome to the forum. 

I'd personally steer clear of this car for 2 reasons. No locking wheel nut. Oil around coil packs. 

Unless the car is going for a stupid low price then it'd still be worth getting it after spending upto a couple hundred quid to sort the 2 items I've mentioned out.

I’ve got it down to £800 is that worth it?

Locking wheel nut replacement I can get for about £35 off eBay when I provide a picture of the flower design to them. 
 

Can you advise about the oil around the coil packs? Is this a failed rocker seal or something more sinister?

Appreciate your help. 
 

Thanks

2 hours ago, willdudeuk said:

I shall attach the VIN plate if it helps identify the car better in terms of specification.

 

Thanks @unofix appreciate you sending that over. Where do you go for that?

Any advice on the above?

Just realised I missed the last few lines off the VIN report (see below). Generally a reliable engine, @TomsFocus can probably tell you more about the model.

Thank you @unofix for sending the rest of it over. 
 

Is there any advice on a decent OBD / diagnostic tool too? I am a VW man before having a Ford and had an excellent system called VCDS. Unsure if there is a Ford equivalent. 

Other than been able to buy Fords own diagnostic equipment (costs many thousands of £'s) the very best diagnostics available is the software FORScan. It is almost as good as the dealer software and is used by many here on the forum. It's free for use on a Windows laptop, but worth buying the licence £12 which allows more programming features. There is also a version for an android phone and one for an iPhone. Only the laptop version can make programming changes. All versions read the codes and can do service resets and clear fault DTC's.

FORScan: https://forscan.org/download.html

vLinker FS cable (laptop): https://www.amazon.co.uk/Vgate-vLinker-Adapter-FORScan-MS-CAN/dp/B0952P4MLP

vLinker FD android phone: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Vgate-Bluetooth-vLinker-Scanner-Diagnostic/dp/B08H82WC8L

vLinker FD+ iPhone: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Vgate-Bluetooth-vLinker-Scanner-Diagnostic/dp/B08H8JHWP2

Thank you for the advice. 
 

Is it also free to use on an iPhone?

Sounds like it’s more advantageous to get the USB / computer dongle instead?

2 hours ago, willdudeuk said:

@tazzman600 can you advise on the above when you get chance? Thank you. 

FORScan, windows laptop version is free, but you can buy a licence for £12 which gives more programming features.

Both FORScan phone versions cost £7 each

 

The locking wheel nut can be ordered directly from McGard in Germany.

I wouldn't be too bothered about the oil around the coil packs.  Looks like there's more around the cap so probably poor aim when topping up.  Just clean it up and wait to see if it reappears.

Rear clunk is potentially expensive.  Could be the rear wishbone bushes which are a pain to replace due to rusty bolts, and the geometry needs to be re-aligned with a 4-wheel alighner afterwards.  Could just be knackered shocks or shock mounts.  Or could even be a missing ARB droplink.  The rears break quite often and people don't notice until they're picked up by MOT.  Needs further diagnosis.

Front wheel vibration could be cured with balancing.  Though it could also be a bent hub or a failing driveshaft.  Again, needs further diagnosis.

 

The flex fuel engine wasn't common in the UK, in fact, this may be the first one I've come across.  So I'm not sure if they're built more robustly than the standard 1.8 Duratec HE.  As I've just commented on another thread, the piston rings were weak on the standard engine, which eventually leads to oil burning in the cylinders.

Thank you @TomsFocus great help and insight. 
 

Bit concerning it’s the only one you’ve come across regarding the engine. Should I be worried?

Well I doubt I’ll be able to get it up on ramps. I know the rear subframe is corroded and the bolts for toe and camber adjustment look crusty and untouched.
 

Is £800 a good price or not? 

53 minutes ago, willdudeuk said:

Thank you @TomsFocus great help and insight. 
 

Bit concerning it’s the only one you’ve come across regarding the engine. Should I be worried?

Well I doubt I’ll be able to get it up on ramps. I know the rear subframe is corroded and the bolts for toe and camber adjustment look crusty and untouched.
 

Is £800 a good price or not? 

I don't think you should be particularly worried about the engine.  It is more common in the rest of Europe.  Just a bit pointless in the UK as there were very few stations selling E85 over here.

These use a cam chain so there is no cambelt interval to worry about.  Does it come with much MOT?

Overall, I doubt you'll get anything better for £800 if it's running & driving.

Hi Will. You've got All your answers above. Be prepared however to spend a a couple or so hundred quid on it. You'll still be on a winner.

Got MOT until 9th January 2025

Looks like I should go for it then thanks for all the help. 

Go for it Will and don't forget to let us know and post some photos. 

Thanks chaps. Got myself a Forscan now just need to figure how to use it. 

Is it worth saving the first scan then clearing codes then rescan to see what codes remain?

Also I don’t think the vehicle has the Julian / locking key code so how would I purchase one? Would McGard in Germany still be able to help? Or would I need to go elsewhere?