7 minutes ago, Renegade- said:

Ok yes that's correct as you said by default it's open but the garage said they unplugged it and then used a screwdriver to keep it open at which this point when they said it started on the easy start and ran fine 

That is what I find strange, maybe the Gear mechanism is physically broken and when Cranking it is being pulled closed, or maybe it is erroneously being commanded to close by the PCM, it is difficult to diagnose from a distance.

27 minutes ago, Tizer said:

That is what I find strange, maybe the Gear mechanism is physically broken and when Cranking it is being pulled closed, or maybe it is erroneously being commanded to close by the PCM, it is difficult to diagnose from a distance.

I have a lot of things to check but I will note it all down take pics etc and reply once the garage allow me to do these. Appreciate the help 🙏 

Ok managed to get to the garage. Crank position sensor replaced made no difference did the tests that I could. I did also notice the stop start button is flashing green not sure if that's supposed to do that or if it's meant to be solid but thought to mention that observation 

The Stop Start Button should not flash, Try starting in Sport Mode which should disable the Stop Start.

Did you bring up the PID's for the Throttle Valve position Commanded and Actual that were in one of your Screenshots?

39 minutes ago, Tizer said:

The Stop Start Button should not flash, Try starting in Sport Mode which should disable the Stop Start.

Did you bring up the PID's for the Throttle Valve position Commanded and Actual that were in one of your Screenshots?

Hi it's a manual so not sure I can start in sports mode? I don't think I captured the throttle valve position details. The light flashes fast which is how I noticed it 

Hi just to clarify I am assuming the uploaded picture about fuel pressure show there is enough at the rail ? So not likely to be a high pressure pump issue?

28 minutes ago, Renegade- said:

Hi just to clarify I am assuming the uploaded picture about fuel pressure show there is enough at the rail ? So not likely to be a high pressure pump issue?

The Actual is only about a third of the Desired. I can't remember at the moment the amount that would be needed to start the car.

7 hours ago, Tizer said:

The Actual is only about a third of the Desired. I can't remember at the moment the amount that would be needed to start the car.

Ok so according to what I can see my desired fuel pressure should be 33160 but I am getting between 10050 and 11050 which would be desired 330 bar and I am getting 110 bar so does this mean one of the fuel pressure pumps is not working correctly? And if so how do I know which as I understand these have 2 low and high. Thanks for your help thus far really appreciated 

On 10/2/2024 at 10:15 PM, Tizer said:

That is what I find strange, maybe the Gear mechanism is physically broken and when Cranking it is being pulled closed, or maybe it is erroneously being commanded to close by the PCM, it is difficult to diagnose from a distance.

Just to clear this one up after speaking to the garage they said it is open but closes shortly after once the cars ecu realises there is no fuel and this is a preventative measure to stop the car running away according to the garage. So it seems like it's possibly fine but by default it is open

46 minutes ago, Renegade- said:

Ok so according to what I can see my desired fuel pressure should be 33160 but I am getting between 10050 and 11050 which would be desired 330 bar and I am getting 110 bar so does this mean one of the fuel pressure pumps is not working correctly? And if so how do I know which as I understand these have 2 low and high. Thanks for your help thus far really appreciated 

I wouldn't necessarily condemn the Fuel Pump on the basis of the FORScan Screenshots alone, I'm not sure what Pressure is required to start.

Thinking about things 300 Bar is a lot and is near what a running Engine would need but I don't have any exact expected figures, someone else may know.

1 minute ago, Tizer said:

I wouldn't necessarily condemn the Fuel Pump on the basis of the FORScan Screenshots alone, I'm not sure what Pressure is required to start.

Thinking about things 300 Bar is a lot and is near what a running Engine would need but I don't have any exact expected figures, someone else may know.

Ok that's cool I will see if I can find out anything further on the Internet. Appreciate the input

5 minutes ago, Renegade- said:

Just to clear this one up after speaking to the garage they said it is open but closes shortly after once the cars ecu realises there is no fuel and this is a preventative measure to stop the car running away according to the garage. So it seems like it's possibly fine but by default it is open

The garage may well be correct when there is another fault, being open when trying to start is correct.

I can't help thinking that the flashing Start Stop Button is the ECU trying to tell you something and I'm surprised that FORScan is not picking it up.

2 minutes ago, Tizer said:

The garage may well be correct when there is another fault, being open when trying to start is correct.

I can't help thinking that the flashing Start Stop Button is the ECU trying to tell you something and I'm surprised that FORScan is not picking it up.

I have tried looking this up about flashing green light on the start stop but don't find much only something about the steering lock not working but mine is unlocking and I am not even sure if that's related to the ford focus. As I say not much on that even looked through manual last night but did not see anything relating to flashing green light 

Saw this information on a previous thread going by this I do require more pressure to start the engine 

Don't believe everything you read online!  

Fuel pressures have got higher as the years have gone on.  Higher fuel pressure means smaller fuel droplets which ignite more easily and reduce the amount of soot from each combustion stroke.  My previous 200 bar was based on earlier engines and was a minimum figure.  I would trust Forscan's desired rail pressure if it's saying 300+ bar for this engine.

IIRC the OP in that thread had a faulty low pressure (in-tank) pump.  That's why he was not getting any fuel pressure change in the rail at all.  If you're getting 100bar, there must be a decent amount of diesel getting up to the HP pump, which rules out the tank pump for me.

Have you tried a fuel filter change yet?  I'd probably then try changing the rail pressure sensor and the regulator before replacing the HP pump.  HP pump requires a cambelt change so best to rule out other things before doing that.

Thinking again about this I think about 350  Bar is a normal idling pressure. 

FORScan has Key On Engine Off test under Tests. It's a long shot but worth a try. 

You could also try disconnecting the Battery for half an hour as well if it has not been done, another long shot. 

This was just a test off my Mazda cx3 and they almost match

3 hours ago, Renegade- said:

I have tried looking this up about flashing green light on the start stop but don't find much only something about the steering lock not working but mine is unlocking and I am not even sure if that's related to the ford focus. As I say not much on that even looked through manual last night but did not see anything relating to flashing green light 

With regards to this flashing green light might be a false alarm as it only starts to flash after it fails to start looked at it closer today when had a chance noticed it late last time 

There is an outside chance that the Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor is reading too low.

On 10/4/2024 at 9:21 AM, TomsFocus said:

Don't believe everything you read online!  

Fuel pressures have got higher as the years have gone on.  Higher fuel pressure means smaller fuel droplets which ignite more easily and reduce the amount of soot from each combustion stroke.  My previous 200 bar was based on earlier engines and was a minimum figure.  I would trust Forscan's desired rail pressure if it's saying 300+ bar for this engine.

IIRC the OP in that thread had a faulty low pressure (in-tank) pump.  That's why he was not getting any fuel pressure change in the rail at all.  If you're getting 100bar, there must be a decent amount of diesel getting up to the HP pump, which rules out the tank pump for me.

Have you tried a fuel filter change yet?  I'd probably then try changing the rail pressure sensor and the regulator before replacing the HP pump.  HP pump requires a cambelt change so best to rule out other things before doing that.

Hi thanks for thr input garage have done a few checks you mentioned they are now going to change the high pressure pump along with timing kit and water pump. Hopefully this sorts the issue out will keep you updated once the work is completed 

Ok high pressure pump has been changed and there is more pressure the old pump was not working correctly but it still fails to start. 

Ok high pressure pump has been replaced and there is definitely more pressure being produced as old high pressure fuel pump was making a noise when checked all timing chain water pump etc has been changed at the same time however it still fails to start!

Do you have any fault codes now?

Has the battery been charged?  If not it will be low from all the failed starts and weeks off road.

Just now, TomsFocus said:

Do you have any fault codes now?

Has the battery been charged?  If not it will be low from all the failed starts and weeks off road.

Still no fault codes that would stop the car from starting just some from when you try starting past 5 times the car shuts down the starter. Battery was fully charged but is now dying and will be put back on charge tomorrow 

Just now, Renegade- said:

Still no fault codes that would stop the car from starting just some from when you try starting past 5 times the car shuts down the starter. Battery was fully charged but is now dying and will be put back on charge tomorrow 

Actually there was this one code but the garage seems to believe its not relevant and part of when it attempts to start too many times