I have been having major car problems and I am trying to troubleshoot loads of things, I think it might be bad fuel but I am having a hard time getting a sample. 

 

Tried to stick a pipe down there and its having none of it, But I do not understand this as you can see here on the Haynes Manuel it says that it is the way to get it out

 

Much easier to take it from the engine bay.  Just disconnect the fuel rail pipe, put it in a bottle, and switch the ignition on to run the lift pump.

32 minutes ago, TomsFocus said:

Much easier to take it from the engine bay.  Just disconnect the fuel rail pipe, put it in a bottle, and switch the ignition on to run the lift pump.

Hi TomsFocus 

Thank you for replying to me, I thought it was not too good an idea to do this with petrol? Can I just confirm are you talking about the red line? And do I need to start the engine or just turn to phase one? 

 

@TomsFocus maybe you can help me with the problems I am having, And what might/could be the problem 

 

You see I went to Asda and filled up early in the morning it took ages as the pump was really slow. I drove home left the car and all was fine.

Next Morning drive about a mile and the car just loses it, Limp mode (Tho been told the MK 5 do not have a limp mode as such) Car would not go above 30 MPH, Manage to get it home and after looking it over found that the engine breather pipe had a split in it. This was causing loads of fuel to pull though could smell it out the back end. Fixed this and yet the car still is in this limp mode, But now the fuel trim is Neg 20% long term. New spark plugs new coil pack and leads. Only things I can think of ATM is air leak..... But then the fuel trim would be positive? Exhaust leak? Poor fuel? (Reason for sample) 

 

I ran the OBD and it came up as a P0341 sensor code. My partner has the same car so I changed over the sensor and it still comes up now and then, But not come up on her car since I installed my one on it. 

 

 

14 hours ago, jajk18 said:

Hi TomsFocus 

Thank you for replying to me, I thought it was not too good an idea to do this with petrol? Can I just confirm are you talking about the red line? And do I need to start the engine or just turn to phase one? 

 

It's not a good idea to have open petrol anywhere but I wouldn't say this is anymore dangerous than trying to suck it out of the tank.

Many Ford petrol's of this age don't use a return line, but as the 1.3 does on that picture, I'm not sure whether it's the red end or the white end on this particular engine.

The engine won't start with that pipe disconnected and don't try it.  Just switch the ignition on and you should hear the pump start to prime and see fuel come out.  It should stop as soon as you switch the ignition off again.

12 hours ago, jajk18 said:

@TomsFocus maybe you can help me with the problems I am having, And what might/could be the problem 

 

You see I went to Asda and filled up early in the morning it took ages as the pump was really slow. I drove home left the car and all was fine.

Next Morning drive about a mile and the car just loses it, Limp mode (Tho been told the MK 5 do not have a limp mode as such) Car would not go above 30 MPH, Manage to get it home and after looking it over found that the engine breather pipe had a split in it. This was causing loads of fuel to pull though could smell it out the back end. Fixed this and yet the car still is in this limp mode, But now the fuel trim is Neg 20% long term. New spark plugs new coil pack and leads. Only things I can think of ATM is air leak..... But then the fuel trim would be positive? Exhaust leak? Poor fuel? (Reason for sample) 

 

I ran the OBD and it came up as a P0341 sensor code. My partner has the same car so I changed over the sensor and it still comes up now and then, But not come up on her car since I installed my one on it. 

 

 

That is an odd situation.  Usually when the breather splits it causes a lean mix by sucking in a load of extra air.  Having all that excess petrol going through would usually point to a MAP sensor fault instead.  It may be a leaking injector though they don't often fail on this engine.

@TomsFocus

 

Managed to get some fuel out to test, did not know that I would have to keep putting the battery term on and off one squirt at a time lol, Guess next time I need a paperclip to overcome the fuel pump relay? 

 

Just waiting now for it to separate however I do not think it is going to be the fuel. 

 

Just to add I have taken the MAP off and cleaned it with electrical cleaner. Going to do another smoke test and see if anything from under the car shows up. 

Am getting to the point tho that I am getting out of my depth, If I knew what was broken then I am not bad at fixing, Its finding what is broken that is the problem. 

 

Just to add the Cam belt was done  2 years ago. It is a right head scratcher I know there is a whole in the back box but this should not cause any problems. 

 

I have video of OSB readings but will not let me upload it? 

 

The 1.3 doesn't have a cambelt.  It's chain driven.  Is this one actually a 1.25 instead?  I thought the cam cover looked wrong for a 1.3 earlier lol.

The fuel pump should be giving a continuous squirt for a few seconds at a time.  Ignition off & back on a few times is all that should be required to fill a bottle.  At least that's done now anyway.

I wouldn't bother cleaning the MAP, replace it with the known good one from your other car.

Videos can't be uploaded here directly.  You can upload to YouTube and then link across though.

33 minutes ago, TomsFocus said:

The 1.3 doesn't have a cambelt.  It's chain driven.  Is this one actually a 1.25 instead?  I thought the cam cover looked wrong for a 1.3 earlier lol.

The fuel pump should be giving a continuous squirt for a few seconds at a time.  Ignition off & back on a few times is all that should be required to fill a bottle.  At least that's done now anyway.

I wouldn't bother cleaning the MAP, replace it with the known good one from your other car.

Videos can't be uploaded here directly.  You can upload to YouTube and then link across though.

@TomsFocus

Yeah at the time of signing up I did not know there was a half lol 

So here is a video from day one,

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JZ3Diqyklsw

You can hear the air leak which I have fixed, However the rough idle is still there. Tried resetting the EMC to try get the fuel trim back up. Ill upload the data when it was plugged in.  

@TomsFocus

 

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/6pY8LTXNhRA

 

And here is the readings, However this is after the breather hose being replaced, So the fuel trim is now around -15% better than the -25% but the car still can not go above 30 and as soon as gas is given the car dies. 

 

Open to any suggestions 

Those videos links are correct but the videos are set to 'private' in YouTube so we can't see them.  

Are you using Forscan to check for fault codes or just generic OBD?

@TomsFocus

 

Sorry it seemed that I had only uploaded as a draft, This is now fixed and these links should work.....

 

 

 

As for code reader I have this one https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B098PYB8XG?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title works both ways but for the love of me nothing is coming up code wise..... 

 

Yet something is holding it back and once power is given it stalls, This can only be overcome by restarting and holding the revs slowly easing off the pedal till running by itself. 

Forgot to add that awhile ago the car had a problem staying running, And had to hold the revs until the car was warmed up then would be fine. This problem stopped about a week before all this happened.  

13 hours ago, jajk18 said:

As for code reader I have this one https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B098PYB8XG?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title works both ways but for the love of me nothing is coming up code wise.....   

That won't show Ford specific fault codes, you need Forscan for that.

It is showing one generic OBD code in the video though, was that the one for the cam sensor?

Wow that's an expensive OBD code reader !!!!

Still won't read Ford specific DTC's as Tom has already said.

On 4/7/2024 at 8:59 PM, unofix said:

FORScan (for use with Windows Laptop) : https://forscan.org/download.html

It's what many Ford owners use including some Ford technicians.

vLinker FS, cable for laptop: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Vgate-vLinker-Adapter-FORScan-MS-CAN/dp/B0952P4MLP

vLinker FD, for android phone: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Vgate-Bluetooth-vLinker-Scanner-Diagnostic/dp/B08H82WC8L

vLinker FD+, for iPhone: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Vgate-Bluetooth-vLinker-Scanner-Diagnostic/dp/B08H8JHWP2

 

Search Tag:   FORScan123

 

I don't think its code related its something engine related that is holding it back, it wont go past 3000 Revs it sounds like a tractor and the only codes I got out of it was P0341 which I changed for a diff one and still get the code pop up. Even tho the other car the old one is on never pops up with that code. 

 

Which one should I buy? 

 

https://www.amazon.co.uk/HTTYHT-FORScan-Adapter-Diagnostic-Vehicles/dp/B0DGPF7M3S/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?crid=I0M8FBOB1KQ3&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.o7HTRbg12RIjGmAyNGg0cYx2VaytSwaWNwnrbIZlXjUQRUR6xl4Pvdw_mNCztOVu3wuD6YbvyNu_FOYqhFM2EB0Kxtfb0EpKRx0TBOQk_65SdOpxynq2rG8QWSYJ1voE4cPwDKWOzWV7a3tW-0PHMLb-1sB1Cwhjx2jDHaPKMrUjRu5KKsqKEVQ54vfEKkntObK7FaZTMWe_woYeRBL9TtAOWxqqX7LxicRBNJeFee41JtZOX3gy8RQiNmVzXWeBB398Os_lj5h9UnaCsIWeWssrfvKxwmj6MXqFaIWw9_w.s_TGZcGkc-hBPLrpqxb8GHpTzc8_1v0Bd0LqBqEum58&dib_tag=se&keywords=forscan+obd2+adapter+ford&nsdOptOutParam=true&qid=1734265830&sprefix=forscam%2Caps%2C219&sr=8-2-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&psc=1

 

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Forscan-Scanner-ELMconfig-FoCCCus-Diagnostic/dp/B07MQ8GHG3/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=I0M8FBOB1KQ3&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.o7HTRbg12RIjGmAyNGg0cYx2VaytSwaWNwnrbIZlXjUQRUR6xl4Pvdw_mNCztOVu3wuD6YbvyNu_FOYqhFM2EB0Kxtfb0EpKRx0TBOQk_65SdOpxynq2rG8QWSYJ1voE4cPwDKWOzWV7a3tW-0PHMLb-1sB1Cwhjx2jDHaPKMrUjRu5KKsqKEVQ54vfEKkntObK7FaZTMWe_woYeRBL9TtAOWxqqX7LxicRBNJeFee41JtZOX3gy8RQiNmVzXWeBB398Os_lj5h9UnaCsIWeWssrfvKxwmj6MXqFaIWw9_w.s_TGZcGkc-hBPLrpqxb8GHpTzc8_1v0Bd0LqBqEum58&dib_tag=se&keywords=forscan+obd2+adapter+ford&nsdOptOutParam=true&qid=1734265830&sprefix=forscam%2Caps%2C219&sr=8-1-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&psc=1

 

 

Fault codes don't just mean a sensor is faulty.  If the fault still comes up with a new sensor then it could be a wiring fault, or an ECU fault, or in some cases means the timing belt has slipped or slackened.

The cam sensor is used for fuel injection timing, so I do believe the running fault is related to the code in this case.

Forscan no longer recommend ELM cables, they recommend the V-Linker cable as in Unofix's link, though on a Mk6 Fiesta the cheaper ELMs should still work in most cases.

6 minutes ago, TomsFocus said:

Fault codes don't just mean a sensor is faulty.  If the fault still comes up with a new sensor then it could be a wiring fault, or an ECU fault, or in some cases means the timing belt has slipped or slackened.

The cam sensor is used for fuel injection timing, so I do believe the running fault is related to the code in this case.

Forscan no longer recommend ELM cables, they recommend the V-Linker cable as in Unofix's link, though on a Mk6 Fiesta the cheaper ELMs should still work in most cases.

Its a MK5 

11 minutes ago, TomsFocus said:

Fault codes don't just mean a sensor is faulty.  If the fault still comes up with a new sensor then it could be a wiring fault, or an ECU fault, or in some cases means the timing belt has slipped or slackened.

The cam sensor is used for fuel injection timing, so I do believe the running fault is related to the code in this case.

Forscan no longer recommend ELM cables, they recommend the V-Linker cable as in Unofix's link, though on a Mk6 Fiesta the cheaper ELMs should still work in most cases.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B094Z7PBLS/ref=sspa_dk_detail_4?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B094Z7PBLS&pd_rd_w=J4Tvm&content-id=amzn1.sym.6089d1b6-f184-42cf-9d58-0015ab58734a&pf_rd_p=6089d1b6-f184-42cf-9d58-0015ab58734a&pf_rd_r=MKAN3A1DK6YH9JBZ16EA&pd_rd_wg=o8JMq&pd_rd_r=ed715f51-da60-4e40-af9a-6c8987a0df26&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9kZXRhaWxfdGhlbWF0aWM

Would this one be OK? 

9 minutes ago, jajk18 said:

Its a MK5 

In 2003?  Are you sure?  In Europe, they call our Mk6 a Mk5.  The Mk5 is bubble shaped, the Mk6 is cube shaped.

This is a Mk6:

 

This is a Mk5:

 

1 hour ago, unofix said:

Wow that's an expensive OBD code reader !!!!

Still won't read Ford specific DTC's as Tom has already said.

 

Sorry @TomsFocus I missed @unofix quote, I found the Vgate one as quoted. 

 

Just need to learn how to use the software hoping its easier that im dreading lol 

4 minutes ago, TomsFocus said:

In 2003?  Are you sure?  In Europe, they call our Mk6 a Mk5.  The Mk5 is bubble shaped, the Mk6 is cube shaped.

This is a Mk6:

 

This is a Mk5:

 

My bad then its a MK 6 gets confusing when one place calls its one thing and another place calls it something else, I was going on a car parts place but low and behold its in Europe which would explain why its listed on their site as a MK 5 

Just need to add the pipe that has a split in it was the "Crankcase Vent Oil Separator" 

 

Reading this I am wondering if it could be this 

 

 

 

Is the THROTTLE BODY in standby mode thus causing the lack of power, Although would not explain the -25% fuel trim. 

As it shows there, the dash display should show EAC FAIL if there's an issue with the TB.

It is definitely worth relearning the TB after replacing the crank breather though.  Does it give the relearn procedure in the manual?

@TomsFocus no does not give the relearn. The car in the past has had the EAC fail come up before however turning off and restarting everything was fine. 
 

well I have that Ford scan reader coming, so we will see if that brings anything up. 
 

Also reading that page the EAC fail only comes up if it is app sensor. 
 

The other stuff seems to be based on the stop screw not working…. 

Looking at your Live Data, your MAP Pressure is a bit higher than I would expect although I don't have figures for your Engine.

I don't know if the  quoted Throttle position is above the normal "Closed" Resting Point, which is slightly open, if it is then that would explain the higher than expected MAP.

It may be that the Throttle is opening a bit more because the car is trying to keep running because of whatever the fault is.