Hi all good evening,

I've had a issue with my Ford focus 1.5 Ecoblue not starting.

It drove fine for 5miles then suddenly juddered to a halt. After limping it home. I had it on the drive plugged a OBD2 scanner in which said Nox sensor. 

I cleared this (and have also cleared a DPF engine related lights in the past). I restarted it revved to 4k RPM at which point it cut straight.

It now cranks but won't fire into life. There are no faults on the dash and non when this initially started happening and No faults on the OBD scanner.

Battery is gtg and have also trickel charged and tried jumping it.

I called out AA they reckon it's the timing chain.

Any help is much appreciated.

Best regards Dave.

I'd agree with timing chain, initially slipped, now totally snapped.  Becoming a very common failure on this engine now.  The cam to crank timing is done by a conventional dry belt, but there is a small chain between the two camshafts which is the one that breaks.  There is a thicker upgrade chain available which you could choose for the repair.

@TomsFocus thanks for the reply, any idea on the cost of this and car only has 46k on the clock!

Still turns over but you think it will have destroyed the engine?

6 minutes ago, Monkey777 said:

@TomsFocus thanks for the reply, any idea on the cost of this and car only has 46k on the clock!

Still turns over but you think it will have destroyed the engine?

There will most likely be some top end damage at least.  Usually the rocker arms get smashed as some valves will be stuck open and get hit by pistons when it's cranked over on the starter.

Bottom end should still be ok.  Hopefully the valves won't have bent.  If that's the case, you can get away with just new rocker arms and tappets, plus a new chain, chain tensioner, and cambelt kit (which needs to be removed for access).

If you're unlucky and valves have bent then the cylinder head needs to be removed, new valves fitted, possibly head skimmed, new headgasket, etc.  

I take it you haven't got an extended warranty?  It's a couple of years out of manufacturer warranty unfortunately.

I'm not keen on giving quotes for this type of job due to so many variables.  As a very rough ballpark it should be under £1000 if it's just new arms, chain and belt kit.  Or over £1000 if it needs the head removed due to bent valves.

@TomsFocus appreciate your help hopefully its not too bad. Will keep this updated for future reference.

Just an update... 

Car has finally had the head removed, chain cambelt and tensioners all good. 

Mechanic now thinks possibly the press fit cams may have slipped a degree or so.

Next course of action he's going to compression test the pistons etc. But atm fully admits he wasn't expecting the chain / guide to be intact.

Any thoughts on this from the forum? 

Again thanks in advance.

On 4/11/2025 at 7:26 PM, Monkey777 said:

Mechanic now thinks possibly the press fit cams may have slipped a degree or so.

Update... poor explanation on my part, he means a cam lobe my have slipped degree or 2.

So update number 3, 4 or 5 I've lost track tbf. Feels like I'll never get the car back or at least fixed!

Anyway, lower cam chain guide was broken, though chain hadn't slipped or done damage to cams. To be sure though replaced both cam shafts and upgraded to 8mm chain... engine rebuilt... and nothing still wouldn't start.

Same issue turns over etc but just wont combust into life...  Next thought now from the mechanic was the headgasket is done. 

Please give me some advice / thoughts to help my sanity 🙏 

 

Edit... @TomsFocus I have just re-read your comment on the headgasket part, apologies as you can tell its slightly getting to me now... hence the 0430 forum reading.

If the head has been removed and refitted, they must have fitted a new headgasket, and checked both head & block were perfectly flat, so I can't see that being the fault now.  Easy to rule out with a compression test.  Though I'd assume that's already been done by now as well?  

It's difficult to offer advice without knowing exactly what has and hasn't been checked.  I would hope the mechanic working on it can offer better advice than we can over the internet.  I can appreciate how frustrating this must be though.  The costs are obviously mounting up as well.

If the head hasn't been removed and they only removed the cam carrier then we still don't know whether any valves are damaged.  Again, that is easy to rule out with a compression test.

So I believe after speaking a compression test was done, but sounds like this may have been missed or skipped... getting worried now that potentially person going about this isn't as competent as I'd so been told.

Again thanks for the advice and I will go about posing these questions. Thanks for the help and advice.

Update on behalf, this is what’s been carried out so far. Are they on the right track with head gasket? Another mechanic has mentioned that it could be the timing is wrong. 

Any help would be appreciated.

 

A diagnostic scan was carried out, no fault codes present.

 

Battery test and confirmed the battery was flat - recharged

 

The vehicle doesn't fully turn 

removed the camshafts and checked the chain and guides. - guide broken so replaced guide and chain.

 

Pressure checked individual  cyclinders.

 

Re fitted the camshafts and  carrier unit, 

 

The vehicle started a couple of times but wasn't 100% sounded little low on compression.

 

Camshafts checked again.

pressurised smoke machine test with all injectors out and camshafts out,

-cylinder 1/4 held smoke and pressure. 

-cylinder 2 loosing some pressure as passing into cylinder 3.

 

Result from mechanic is :

 

So 99% pointing toward the head gasket, but without removing the cyclinder head to visually inspect the gasket/head/block surfaces, i can not be 100%.

If cylinder 2 is leaking into cylinder 3 then that can only be through the headgasket, or a crack in the head.

Timing makes no difference with the camshafts out because all the valves should be fully closed.

However...I'm sceptical that it is leaking between the cylinders.  My expectation would be to see a slightly bent valve on cylinder 2 preventing that sealing properly when closed.

They are right that there's no sure fire way to know without removing the cylinder head.  You will have to pay another couple of hours labour to confirm.

Thanks 

I think that’s what he is going with. Full head gasket replacement as after taking cylinder head of it will need to be replaced? 

11 hours ago, Moo777 said:

Thanks 

I think that’s what he is going with. Full head gasket replacement as after taking cylinder head of it will need to be replaced? 

Yes, the headgasket will need to be replaced after the head is removed.

Evening @TomsFocus I'm looking for some help. This issue is yet to be resolved. The garage now thinks the engine needs changing (bare).

Do you have any recommendations for someone trustworthy to complete something like this at reasonable price, in timely manner?

Best regards, 

Dave.

1 hour ago, Monkey777 said:

Evening @TomsFocus I'm looking for some help. This issue is yet to be resolved. The garage now thinks the engine needs changing (bare).

Do you have any recommendations for someone trustworthy to complete something like this at reasonable price, in timely manner?

Best regards, 

Dave.

Sorry to hear this is still ongoing.

Pumaspeed aren't far from you and they would be the recommendation for most Ford engines, however they don't seem to offer 1.5 EcoBlue engines unfortunately.  You could contact them to double check.

Only other one I can recommend is Approved Engines but they are in Essex.  Refurbished 1.5 EcoBlue costs £2000, plus £100 if you want it delivered to a local garage.  Might be worth checking prices to have the car transported to their garage.  You could travel down on public transport to drive it back once fixed.  I know that wouldn't be cheap either but there are no cheap options with engine failure unfortunately.

@TomsFocus yeah surprised I have any left!nnate all I can is thankyou for all your help. 

If only garages locally to me would be this good.

Many thanks again.

 

1 hour ago, Monkey777 said:

If only garages locally to me would be this good.

Just as a possible alternative, try NorthWest Engines they get good reviews and a number of members here have used them.

https://northwestengines.co.uk/contact-us

@TomsFocus used approved engines, so far so good brand new engine for 2800. Highly recommend there delivery time was next day for a long, few minor inconveniences like the engine temp sensor not have a pilot hole to screw into etc.

The eventual outcome of the old engine was, chain had slipped and then seemed, to have a knock on effect in the block, no compression at all. (So when the engine was out she would freely spin using racket on crank)

@unofix also thankyou don't, apologies for not seeing you post sooner. 

Today is the day she's MOT'd and returns from the brink. Problem is have now is trusting the car from letting me down again haha 😄

 

MOT went well, no advisores. Getting back in after the first 1000 to do oil change, etc.

Any other advice for bedding in new engine other than keeping revs low. Are there any specific guidelines I should be following. As in the back of my mind, I'm petrified it's gonna go bang again!

2 hours ago, Monkey777 said:

Any other advice for bedding in new engine

Oh! Have you bought a 1950's engine?

Engine's have not needed run in, since the 1970's.

Just drive it normally.

Keeping revs low isn't recommended any more.  In fact, labouring a new engine causes as much damage as redlining it.  Speed and RPM should be varied as much as possible during the running in period so just drive normally as above.

So last question updating the DVLA?

 

I've emailed approved engines asking for headed paper with engine number on. For various reasons the engine was installed by competent person qualified but we and him can't produce specific docs.

 

Approved engines quotes below the following... is this correct?

there is nothing to update as the number stays the same the only time an engine would have a new number as such is if it had been allocated to another vehicle which this has not as its direct from factory.

gine would have a 

kind regardsr

Sort of correct.  The engine number won't match your original any more if it has one.  But the new engine may not even have a number if it's brand new.  No one will ever check with a like for like replacement, and there's nothing to change regarding tax or insurance, so it doesn't matter and doesn't need to be reported to DVLA.

If you've got the V5 logbook to hand, see what number it shows for the old engine.  On some Fords it's just the end of the VIN number.

@TomsFocuswI'll have a look thanks. 

On another note had engine light come on again tonight any idea?

Using cheap Bluetooth reader.