Hi 

Last year I had an issue with the turbo position sensor, I determined it was the turbo vanes, added some Wynn's turbo cleaner and that fixed the issue.  Then last week I had my rear engine mount come loose, so removed battery and air box, re-torqued the bolts and refitted, just after this I started getting the same issue again, so I added some more Wynn's, but this didn't clear it, no I have P2263 and no turbo at all.  I've re-checked everything around where I removed the battery tray and cannot see any issues, so may be an annoying coincidence that it happened at the same time.  Since then, I've check at the pipes/hoses and cannot see any leaks.  The turbo actuator moves when the accelerator is pressed and all the live data appears to be in range.  I also replaced the MAP sensor as I had a spare one in the garage, and the MAF sensor appears to be ok and working fine.  Before I start ripping it apart and looking for a new turbo (which looks to be a pain in the behind job), is there anything else I can check or may have missed?  Is it worth checking the vacuum pump?  Currently I've only got a vacuum pump, waiting for an inline vacuum gauge to arrive. 

If you've had previous problems with turbo vanes then I'd disconnect the actuator and ensure that the vanes are moving freely.
As it appears to be an UNDER boost condition, it's looking for air leaks, turbo & fuel parameters matching the demand etc.
Your vacuum gauge should be able to test the pump efficiency (which will affect loads of things if it is faulty or there's a leaking vacuum pipe somewhere (need to isolate different systems and pressure/vacuum test them looking for splits?)
I'd avoid the turbo job until absolutely everything including the turbo has been tested and diagnosed on the car.

With Forscan you can look at a lot of live data PIDs to try to get a handle on what is going on.
May need to consider resetting turbo parameters if there's evidence that it may be wrong?

Please don't fire the parts cannon - test don't guess?

Thanks, definitely trying to avoid buying any parts unless absolutely necessary, can't really afford to at the moment, so hoping it's a cheap and easy fix.

The parts I've replace so far, I brought last year and never used, which was the MAP sensor and the boost solenoid.  After I changed the solenoid last week, it was fine for 1 day, no issues.  Then the following morning I got the P2263 error, which was different to the error I'd had before, which was P003A - Turbocharger/Supercharger Boost Control A Position Exceeded Learning Limit.  I went back to the original solenoid, but still persists, clearly throwing parts at it made it worse.

I'll check the vanes and vacuum system tomorrow and see if I can get any closer to the root cause.

I've checked the vacuum system and all of it is maintaining pressure whilst the engine is running.  When I place the gauge directly to the boost solenoid, pressure was maintain after the engine was switched off.  If I put it inline to the actuator as soon as the engine goes off the pressure drops, I also noticed that whilst inline after revving the engine a bit the pressure dropped and the fault re-appeared, this didn't happen when I bypassed the actuator.  Next job is to remove the actuator and check the vanes, if the vanes are free could it be a faulty actuator?

When I connector my pressure pump to the actuator line and put pressure on it, it would not maintain the pressure, as soon as I stopped pumping, it just dropped back to 0.

On 7/4/2025 at 5:26 PM, videodj said:

When I connector my pressure pump to the actuator line and put pressure on it, it would not maintain the pressure, as soon as I stopped pumping, it just dropped back to 0.

I believe it normally needs a vacuum to work but if it can't hold pressure, the diaphragm must be split requiring replacement?
I'm a bit confused about the rest but if that actuator won't hold vacuum or pressure it is faulty although you say the plunger moves it may well be requiring more flow than the solenoid valve can cope with leading to reduced positioning and turbo boost not matching that demanded?

I attached the pressure pump to the actuator end today, bypassing the pipe from the solenoid and experienced the same problem, actuator moved (slowly), but would not hold the pressure.  Eventually today the fault cleared and I managed to drive with full power for about 2 miles before it went back into limp mode. 

I'm assume if it's the diaphragm, it will require a whole new actuator, I guess I'm fully removing it now, which will be a fun job as I found out one of the torx bolts is rounded!  The other possible issues is that I've read you shouldn't just replace the actuator as it's calibrated to the turbo, not sure how true this is.

So, I stripped out bits this evening.  I checked the vanes, I couldn't feel any play, and the seem to move freely, but definitely some soot build up.  The vanes don't look great and the actuator feels a bit stiff, so looks like a new turbo is required.

I certainly wouldn't replace the entire turbo unless there was significant lateral or end play in the spindle which runs (as you know) at incredible speeds. Unless there's something else going on - what do others think?
A bit of Carbon doesn't mean it has failed?
If the variable vanes are moving correctly and the turbo is spinning (can you see it moving when engine is running) I'd consider leaving well alone. Assume it has had regular engine oil and filter changes of course.
The actuator will, if diaphragm split, need to be changed and on our Forscan, there is a "Reset Variable vane turbocharger position sensor adaptation" - that is only for the sensor.
Does the actuator simply move until the demanded position matches the actual meaning that the actuator doesn't need to be reset, is there any adjustment on the shaft? (if so, set it to the same length from support to spindle?)

Or whatever other advice you get...?

Yes, oil and filter changed regularly.  As far as I can tell there is no significant play.  The problem has also been intermittent over the last couple of days, such that it currently works ok for a couple of miles before going back to limp mode.

Reference the actuator, I assume it should be fairly easy to move, which this is not, either by hand or with a vacuum pump.  Although when I got someone to rev the engine, could see the arm move, just didn't seem as fast or free as it should be, along with it not maintaining pressure.

Not sure on the last point, I'll need to recheck.  I don't see any adjustment on the shaft.

 

As said, I (others may differ) wouldn't change the turbo until all else has been tried 

The actuator is a rubber diaphragm (may be split) with a spring behind it, connected to the actuating rod which may, or not have a threaded portion with a locknut for adjusting the length (photo?) The rod may be partially seized? 

Needs to be taken of, thoroughly inspected and tested but likely changed (more photos and info)?

After that (as it is the obvious fault area?) codes need to be cleared and see what comes back.

Then live data: focus on things like fuel rail pressure, turbo vane position and anything else thought relevant based initially on the fault codes.

For some parameters, there is a demanded (from PCM) and actual (from sensor) these should match.

Any obvious differences then need investigating 

Are you using Forscan, if not you may not get the Ford specific codes or be able to access all the live data PIDs? 

 

Yes, using Forscan, I ran the recalibrate variable vanes position sensor on Thursday, cleared the codes and driven about 50 miles, so the fault hasn't returned, suggesting the issue is related to vaccum, but maybe a sticking actuator.

So likely the actuator is the issue, however it appears that these tend to only come with the turbo.  Not sure if they can be opened up and repaired.  But will give it a few more days and see if the issue returns.

@videodj how did you get on?

.... going to be awhile before you get an answer

Again, unfortunately, a thread I was following in the vane (get it?) hope that suggestions would be followed, information on a solution were given in case it happens to me, Boo Hoo!

 

Maybe @Sprouty (Welcome!) will follow the ideas given in both threads and tell us what he finds!

😀 well all I saw was June 30! Wishfully presuming it was this year!….

Hope you are all well! Unfortunately @Shearers my fault is different, but I’ll deffo let you know what I do !

I’ll revive if that’s ok, being as it’s the same fault code.

I replaced the cylinder head on a 2011 Ford Kuga 2.0 TDCI (UFDA Engine). It now has a P2263 fault after engine start. FORSCAN image below.

I’d like to rule out it being a vaccum problem as I’ve had all the vacuum lines off at some point.

Please could somebody confirm, if my lines are correct. I’ve tried to colour code the photos to better help the description.

-I have the yellow solenoid ‘OUT’ line going to the turbo actuator.

-the white solenoid ‘VAC’ goes to a T connection, one branch goes to the solenoid valve P/N 7.04006.00 , the other branch goes to a nipple on the aft right corner of the head.

- the red line goes from the solenoid valve P/N 7.04006.00 to a component for the EGR ( I think)

- the green line goes from the vaccum pump to a nipple on the aft side of the head (the piece of hose that connects is in orange braiding)

- I have the purple line connected to a nipple on the rear of the rocker cover , near the arrow marking , I’ve included a couple of photos with a mirror. This appears to be loose around the air box / battery box / above gearbox area. Is it a breather or should it be connected to something? 
P/N 9M5Q-9K272

 

other points to note;

- the turbo actuator seems to hold vaccum when I test it using a hose and syringe.

- the map sensor has been replaced.

Thanks in advance for anyone who can check or confirm.

I'm out of my depth and your photos can't be enlarged but checking that the actuator can hold vacuum is a good start but then checking the vacuum pipes section by section would be my next check - are you saying that some of the pipes MAY have been put back incorrectly? (I can't help with that as it looks like a lot of pipework to check.
There may well be a gearbox breather pipe but that would have to be traced back and should, I think be a unique pipe with no other connections to it.

Does Forscan give matching turbo vane demanded and actual positions and consistent and  sane manifold pressures from atmospheric to inlet manifold at different rev ranges (best suggestion) i.e atmospheric pressure is OK, boost pressures increase as revs rise, consistent with vane position, no turbo pipework leaks (smoke test?) etc?
Google gives the usual suggestions which I'd look at circumspectly) but as usual, few definitive things that guarantee a fix?

Good afternoon all,

To follow up on this (it’s been a while, kids dog work and all else etc)!

The turbo actuator tested ok when I used a brake bleeder tool to actuate it.

I tested all vac lines for leaks - all ok.

The correct routing for the vacuum lines on a 2.0 UDFA TDCI:

(Yellow) Vac Solenoid OUT port to turbo actuator.

(Red) EGR 9M5Q-9D475-DC to Solenoid P/N 7.04006.00

(Purple) P/N 9M5Q-9K272 goes from the aft right hand side of the engine (white arrow in the picture above) - Previously I had incorrectly fitted this to the rear of the engine intake manifold.

(Green) VAC PUMP Supply to rear of the engine intake manifold. Be careful there are 2 nipples. The correct nipple for this line marked with an arrow on the top of the engine. The correct hose has orange braiding for this connection and a female connector for the vac pump side.

(White) this hose goes to the other nipple on rear of the engine intake manifold further to the right of the hose with the orange braiding.

Other: Thicker dedicated vac line from VAC PUMP to Brake system on rear left bulkhead.

My issue was I had the mixed up the lines during rebuild

So in summary, I had a turbo P2263 fault after engine start after replacing a cylinder head, fuel pump, vac pump, intake manifold.

FORSCAN gave this as Possible causes :

An electrical fault in the Turbocharger control circuit.

MAP sensor electrical failure.

Inspect connectors for signs of damage, water ingress, corrosion, etc.

If the code is set at idle renew the turbocharger. If the code is not set at idle investigate faults with the MAP.

For less than £20 and easy to replace, I changed the MAP sensor but it was the same result.

I’ll post some pics to help anyone else avoid this

Good picture attached to show rear of engine and nipple locations. Hard to see in situ