Hi everyone,

Looking for some help. I’ve purchased a 2015 Mk3.5 Focus Titanium X 1.5 TDCI - mileage around 58k

and these are my current issues.

Headlamp malfunction - service required

Park pilot malfunction- service required

Boot open (when it’s not) 

now each one has come up at different times in the last 72 hours and they go away once I restart the car. The only one to make a reappearance is the park pilot one. This just seems odd for all this to be happening at once. Could this be a dying battery? 
 

The car was serviced prior to purchase but the dealer did say it’s been sitting for a couple months. 
 

The car also has rear and front parking sensors with rear camera. I can’t hear any audible noises when parking either. 
 

any help much appreciated!

Try fully charging or replacing the battery, see if that solves it

Sounds like a low battery State Of Charge.

As Dave has said charge the battery for at least 12 hours (no matter if the charger says its done after a couple of hours).

If the battery is more than 3 years old then it probably needs replaced.

2 hours ago, unofix said:

Sounds like a low battery State Of Charge.

As Dave has said charge the battery for at least 12 hours (no matter if the charger says its done after a couple of hours).

If the battery is more than 3 years old then it probably needs replaced.

Thanks to both of you guys. I will take it to my local garage to check, I’ve also noticed that the coloured ambient lighting is also pretty dim and still not that bright even when it’s night time. 

5 minutes ago, Nick McCartney said:

I’ve also noticed that the coloured ambient lighting is also pretty dim

Check in the settings that the brightness hasn't been turned down by accident. I have mine set to maximum all of the time in my Ranger.

Hi all,

 

I took the car to my mechanic, who checked the battery. The health of the battery appeared okay, and the voltage was within a normal range, though it could benefit from a charge. He mentioned it was odd, as I drove a 3-hour journey home from the dealership last week, which should have been enough to charge it sufficiently.

 

It also seems the car still has its original 2015 battery. When he connected his diagnostic reader, a large number of fault codes came up — many of which point to electrical issues. He’s advised me to take the car to an auto electrician for a full diagnosis.

 

Below is the list of fault codes:

B108E-01

B1215-00

U0415-81

B1409-87

B1C99-13

B1B42-14

B1B38-14

B1B40-14

B1B36-14

B129C-14

B129D-14

B1B57-11

U0073-88

 

To be honest, I’m feeling quite put off by the car at this stage. Under the Consumer Rights Act 2015, I understand I’m entitled to a full refund within 30 days if the car is deemed faulty.

 

Could you let me know your thoughts? To me, this all seems quite risky, and I’d like to understand my options and if anyone else has had to request refund very soon after purchase.

 

Thank you.

Your mechanic may possibly be very good with mechanical things but he lacks the understanding of a modern cars electrical charging system.

You could drive to the Moon and back and the best your battery will be charged to is 80%

If you still have the original battery on a 2015 car then it is little surprise that you have so many fault codes.

Get a new battery. Charge it for at least 12 hours before fitting it. Then reset the BMS and use FORScan to clear the DTCs.

 

11 hours ago, Nick McCartney said:

It also seems the car still has its original 2015 battery.

😬

Change the battery, clear the DTCs, see what comes back

If anything major is there once you've cleared the DTCs then worry, but you'll find it'll be OK

Okay, I’ll speak to my mechanic. He has mentioned that his experience is limited when it comes to modern car battery’s and electrics like you mentioned unofix.

hopefully if he changes the battery it all will be fixed. He did mention that the voltage seemed fine on the battery but the battery overall charge was only at 65ish%

23 minutes ago, Nick McCartney said:

He did mention that the voltage seemed fine on the battery but the battery overall charge was only at 65ish%

That's no good.

If you don't change the battery soon, the car will just die with no warning

2 hours ago, NickFocus64 said:

the battery overall charge was only at 65ish%

Oh dear !! 🙁

15 hours ago, unofix said:

If you still have the original battery on a 2015 car then it is little surprise that you have so many fault codes.

Get a new battery. Charge it for at least 12 hours before fitting it. Then reset the BMS and use FORScan to clear the DTCs.

Simply a 10 year old battery is not going to do the job. It is well past it's "use by date"

Got a new battery fitted, sadly park pilot error and stop start error still remain. 
dealer has agreed to send to auto electrician next week 

2 hours ago, NickFocus64 said:

Got a new battery fitted, sadly park pilot error and stop start error still remain. 
dealer has agreed to send to auto electrician next week 

Was the new battery fully charged before fitting?

Was the BMS reset after the battery was fitted?

3 hours ago, Alan G H said:

Was the new battery fully charged before fitting?

That has to be a 'No' since there's not been enough time elapsed.

3 hours ago, Alan G H said:

Was the BMS reset after the battery was fitted?

50/50 on that. Although I'm edging towards it's not been reset.

Lastly have all DTC's been cleared/reset using FORScan, or was it just attempted with a generic code reader?

So I mentioned to my mechanic about charging the battery for 12 hours prior to installation but he said that wasn’t required for a new battery. I couldn’t say as to the BMS being reset. I mentioned the FORscan system but he only has a snap on reader which he uses to clear all the codes 

Would you call a plumber to fix a faulty socket in your house? 🤔

Wait, plumbers can’t fix everything??

38 minutes ago, unofix said:

Would you call a plumber to fix a faulty socket in your house? 🤔

I certainly wouldn't call a plumber to fix any pipework again.  

All jokes aside, I’m taking it to Auto electrician next week and the dealership is paying for it. I’ll ask about FORscan, also this BMS reset, can I do that, seems to be some videos online, can this be done now that my battery is fitted, will it causes any problems me doing it myself?

1 hour ago, NickFocus64 said:

I mentioned to my mechanic about charging the battery for 12 hours prior to installation but he said that wasn’t required for a new battery

Most of us would disagree with that. New batteries do not come fully charged, especially if they've been sitting on a shelf for months if not years. Before resetting the BMS it's important that the state of charge (SOC) of the battery is as near as possible 100%. Resetting the BMS also resets the battery age count which probably has an effect on the charging profile.

Realistically, I can't imagine many garages are going to charge batteries before fitting them.  So in that case, it's not strictly a 'requirement'.  But is certainly good practice and would always be recommended on here.

So the fact that this battery hasn’t been charged prior to installation could potentially still be the park assist error and not actually the error in that module itself? 

9 minutes ago, NickFocus64 said:

So the fact that this battery hasn’t been charged prior to installation could potentially still be the park assist error and not actually the error in that module itself? 

Not resetting the BMS is the more likely cause.  The car still thinks it's got the same old SOC.  But ideally the BMS shouldn't be reset now until the battery is fully charged again.

31 minutes ago, NickFocus64 said:

So the fact that this battery hasn’t been charged prior to installation could potentially still be the park assist error and not actually the error in that module itself? 

I think that @mjt and @TomsFocus and @Alan G H have asked an answered most if not all the questions regarding the battery issue.

I repeat what I originally said, which is:

On 7/10/2025 at 10:23 PM, unofix said:

Your mechanic may possibly be very good with mechanical things but he lacks the understanding of a modern cars electrical charging system.

So the situation you now find yourself in is that:

1. The actual State Of Charge of your new battery is unknown because it was not charged before fitting it.
2. The BMS might or might not have been reset
3. The DTC's if they were cleared were done so using a generic (SnapOn) code reader. This might or might not have cleared all the Ford specific DTC's.

There is a clear path available to recover from this but it does not involve your mechanic.

1. Use a Smart battery charger, for example 'Maypole' and connect it to the car battery (while it is still connected). Ensure the positive lead is connected to the battery positive terminal, and the negative lead is connected to the vehicle chassis earth point, NOT the battery negative.
2. Charge the battery on the car for a minimum of 12 hours, regardless of what indications you see on the battery charger.
3. Next you need to reset the BMS using one of the two methods shown in the videos below.
4. Finally, either get a Ford main dealer to reset the diagnostic trouble codes. OR, use FORScan and reset them yourself.

 

On 3/29/2023 at 8:13 PM, unofix said:

How to reset the BMS method 1                                                                         Search Tag: BMS1