I'm in the middle of trying to sort out my break lines, as I have various section that are very corroded. I've got 3/16 copper brake line to replace the damaged section, flare kit to create the lines and M/F metric unions.

I've been practising flaring the pipe, which I can do really well, especially on a double flare.

But the union doesn't seem right to me, can someone advise from the images that I am connecting the union correctly and will hold if it's done this way for the breaks.

Cheers.

Your not trying to join 2 double flares are you? I'm struggling to see the pictures

I am Stef yes, is this wrong?

Also been trying to find some vids on how to do it and they are all about flaring.

I will be home shortly, I will make up a few flares for you to see mate

Nice one, cheers Stef.

Here are a couple of pics of the flares you should have on the male end.

A 'DIN' type flare.

What type of tool are you using? The pictures I have just uploaded are of flares done in cunifer pipe, more resistant and stronger than copper but slightly harder to work with.

Are you installing your pipe at the master cylinder? Otherwise flaring steel pipe is very hard and requires expensive tools.

I'm using a Silverline Pipe Flaring Kit.

No, I'm replacing a section on driver side rear.

Is there already a joint in it at that point?

No, I've not yet removed that section of the pipe yet.

Wanted to make sure I was ok doing flare for M Union.

It's needs cutting out and then flared on the sections of brake line on car.

Just becareful that the copper isn't too badly marked as it can crack.

Try your male and female section together, you should see the flares fit together nicely. Once tightened they will seal together.

Is it the front or rear pipes your doing? Rear ones are a PITA. But as I said, a normal flaring tool won't touch the steel pipes if your looking to just replace a section

It's driver side rear that I'm doing, I'm replacing about 15cm of pipe where it's rusted that much it's cracked.

What do you mean by PITA?

It's driver side rear that I'm doing, I'm replacing about 15cm of pipe where it's rusted that much it's cracked.

What do you mean by PITA?

Pain in the rear

Slightly better pics of a din flare

Ah so a DIN is effectively a bubble flare?

I love the PITA acronym.

Yes it's sometimes known as that.

It should be flat on the back side of the flare, using my tool it still slightly rounded but the shape/angle at the front is correct

Cheers for your help Stef, will let you know if I get it fixed.

The next thing, is to figure out how to remove the suspension from rear with welded in place suspension pins lol

What are you trying to remove?

It's the middle pin that holds arm in place, because I can't get it open I can't drop suspension to fix coils.

Can you get a picture at some point? I can't remember having to remove any pins. By coils you mean springs right?

Though not a Mondeo rear

Number 14 is what I'm struggling with, so I can't drop rod down to take it out.

It's the Nut and Bolt on Knuckle.

Oh the pinch bolt.

Btw you need to remove the complete assembly on the rear of the mondeo so don't worry trying to remove that

Garage job then lol

No no it's very very easy mate.

As I say leave the pinch bolt in, the strut doesn't need removed from that hub.

At the bottom of the hub you will see there are a few thin arms that hold it in place to the subframe. Remove these from the hub (3 of them?) and then drop the top mount. Very easy to do, you will see what I mean. I had to do both of mine working alone and it was still easy

That's the problem, the arms are like the pinch bolt, the bolts are welded in place. Tried to do it that way previously, but nearly ended up breaking the arms so had to stop. That's the reason I was going for drop down of strut instead.