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Things i dont like...... Environmentalists

If someone overtakes you in a coal powerd focus rs complete with its own coal shovelling team then our dreams have colided

Lithium batteries explode when overheated. Just ask Richard Hammond. [emoji848] Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

wheres the electric coming from? every winter theres always a concern we are only just producing enough now. without lots of electric cars.

No new petrol or diesel cars to be sold in uk by 2040 talking about plugging your cars into lampposts and everyone should drive ecl cars has the world gone mad! Or (government) if they Evan do this impossible stupid idea I wonder how many faulty charging ports electicute people or how many cars will brake down and how many people will get stuck on route it's the worst idea I have ever my gooooooood just stick to the eco light bulbs and be done with it no one wants your electric country not now and not in 2040 I will continue to rev my diesel out before changing gear thanks but no thanks no smoke no poke hahahaha

Make sure you put the original fuse you have removed into the correct slot. Put the original fuse into the bottom slot, closest to the pins. The new fuse goes into the top slot to create the new circuit. If you are using an empty socket in the fuse panel then it is good practice to put a fuse in the bottom slot for safety, most taps will not work if the bottom socket is empty. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Cleaning off the old, sticky grease and replacing with new is never going to cause any harm. Dirt and dust likes to stick to grease.

Have got a 3.5 Focus with half leather seats. Can anyone recommend cleaning/maintenance products? Thanks in advance.

Yeah Won't be on boost no more just power surge after 2500revs and bov will cost you an extra mile a blow

Wounder if they can be remapped lol

Al bet you can still do a decent burnout in a full eco car tho hahha

Yeah that would be a shame also electric theft on an all time high haha be gypsy camps on every charging station

no tree huggers on this forum . lol

The best bit was when they asked a bloke on his thoughts on it problem was he didn't own and car and road a bycical everywhere hmmmm funny that.

3 out of 4 came out , the last one just snapped off in the socket. luckily i had some extractors and an old socket at home. gas torch and extractor time. been years since ive had to do this on the ka and fiesta endura engine.

What a bell end! Tailgaters get either of two responses from me, one is to simply lift off the accelerator and gradually slow down (which I did this evening to the wonderful person in the VW Golf following me home) or the other is to lower the driver window and wave or 'signal' them to back off. I occasionally 'signal' out of the rear window but keep forgetting that I've got factory tinted rear windows and that they probably can't see anything

Halfords paint is not bad but for a perfect colour match ide obv say ford

Like this? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LED-Running-Light-TFL-Chrome-Ford-Focus-MK2-C307-also-Xenon-08-10-/192241858171?fits=Car+Make%3AFord|Model%3AFocus&hash=item2cc281f67b:g:0CYAAOSwqYBWohnV

nice

Good quality film of 'Driver of the Week'. What's the cam?

Hey Give it a good polish will come up okay not as goos as matalic blue tho haha;)

red calipers are such a commonly used colour its become a cliche lol. go silver for that factory fresh look........... ;-)

i was under the impression you had to have all 4 electric windows for this feature to work ..only the drivers side is 1 touch down on mine ..passenger side is hold button in both directions

yep its possible remove the headlight switch , tap into the wire that powers the rear fog light with a scotchlock connector and connect a wire from there and run it into the engine bay. in the engine bay mount a 12v relay in an accessible location and connect the wire from the light switch to the coil / switching terminal of the relay then take a supply from the battery with a 30A inline fuse and connect that to the power / supply terminal of the relay next take an earth from any part of the chassis and connect that to the negative terminal of the relay finally take a feed and a negative earth to each of the front fog light positions and connect the feeds to the output / load terminal of the relay. cover all cables and wires with either pvc spiral wrap or cloth auto tape for protection and crimp on waterproof connectors to plug into fog lights. simples :-)

*cringe*. You've lost performance by doing that. You might have slightly more air going in, but probably more dirt too. The air will also be hotter as you've ditched the airbox/cold intake, which is not as good for combustion.

Total car check handy little app mate can get full info on car but need pay

Mine is one touch both ways, I reckon the guys who's cars are only 1 touch down need to do the window reset procedure as mentioned by Schmill.

Bite point on MK2 Focus is basically always 'high', it's self adjusting as the clutch wear and it's just how Ford set them up.

Haven't noticed tbh but have changed battery while back n you got me wanting to do it now lol, will check when next in it later

I did this with my induction filter and oil catch. It produces a "whoosh" sound when hitting the high revs. Non turbo MKII Focus.

the shocks is not just down to mileage. different road conditions etc cause the shocks to go up and down more times in a journey than others. Also the seal on the chrome rod (where the oil gets out and causes the misting) can be affected by more dirt / dust and also by corrosion on the chrome rod causing damage to the seal as the rod goes in and out (so if the car was left outside all of the time in a salty environment near the sea that part would suffer more). Personally I would not replace them unless it failed the MOT or the damping effect of the shock absorber seemed to have disappeared. I would want to look at the damaged brake pipe to understand what has happened. I assume not bad otherwise it would fail MOT, but how bad is the damage and how was it caused (eg. debris in road hit it, or some other way eg. handbrake cable rubs on it etc etc)

infact me mate has one on a 03 plate, paid £100 for it years mot broke down last week in the pouring rain, he stopped to eat fish and chips and it wouldnt start after, had EAC on the dash, battery flat, put a jump pack on it and it burst in to life, been fine since

Thank you

Placed an order yesterday due to be delivered next Monday/Wednesday.

Hi all, I'm pretty new to this so any heads up? I have a wonderful original gold MK2 escort ghia automatic which I recently got to cherish and after some research on howmanyleft it says only 27 if the exact variation are left, could this be true and my dad has a pinto mk3 Capri,

I usually clean it the day before. If the forecast doesn't change and it rains all weekend I doubt I'll go. Weather has always been nice the years I've been.

Yes thanks,the only place i can see water could get it is the lens that pops out and always gets wet,the plastic cover whats color coded to the car has a hole on the bottom so i blocked that and for now tried the Waterproof gaffa tape just round the body and looking into the lens to see how i can cover it or only when i wash the car. Cheers Jon.

I hope you sort it Jace, it's really unlucky to have 2 fail in 3 years. If drying it out works then you could try sealing it with silicone rather than tape, silicone is much more water tight. You can get the stuff in pressurised cans or the good old fashioned tube with a ratchet gun. You won't need a great deal but you can fill the gaps in the plastic cover with it too. You can get clear, white and I think you can get black now too. If using that then I would put some on a gloved finger and rub it onto the housing of the camera paying attention to any seams and also where the wires enter. You can apply a couple of layers if you want to. You can never use too much, just let it dry properly. No worries on sharing my thoughts I'm really glad it has been of some help. That's what forums are all about, just remember to pass it forward [emoji846] good luck and keep us posted. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

That's the way it is. Base petrol engine cars are typically geared in 5th such that they can only maintain speed up a 5% incline. There is no solution other than to shift down if you want to pick up speed. The other thing that you might take into consideration is that when you are behind someone you get the benefit of their slipstream. This can give you the feel of having enough headway to overtake and change lane. You happen to be on a barely perceptible incline and there is a headwind (even a 5mph wind is enough to make a difference depending on whether it is head or tail); you get to the point where you pull level with the car you're overtaking and find you can't get any further because you've lost the slipstream and the other car is picking up on yours. Now a Range Rover is sitting two inches from your bumper. You're stuck. It's a matter of learning to anticipate and to shift down before the need arises. I have a spreadsheet with a simple mathematical model to predict 50-70 times. I consider this increment to be much more useful than 0-60 times. For your car the times are 9.6, 13.4 and 17.6 seconds in 3rd, 4th, 5th. By comparison the 100 Ecoboost works out as 7.3, 10, 13.2. So whereas the Ecoboost has enough in top to pick up on a motorway incline in a headwind, you can see how you need to be a gear lower. You did ask about fuel consumption. Yes, it will use more juice when you shift down. But it's only for a few seconds. If the gearing was set to make the car more responsive it would be less economical the whole time.

I don't know if anyone still takes starter motors apart. In the old days most starter problems were fixed by a) replacing the carbon brushes in the motor or b) recutting the armature inbetween the copper segments of the commutator. I had a few I fixed by recutting the armature. This meant there was no cost involved at all, not even 1 penny (if you had a broken junior hacksaw blade handy). ( I have no tips on how to remove it though)

Stick with black for the drums and the colour of your choice for the callipers. Just remember to clean them well, let them dry and use a heat resistant paint.

I have painted the calipers gloss red and the drums gloss black with Hammerite. Looks fine to me on a red car.

Only do this if you know exactly what you are doing as often the water jacket is close to the surface .You can't just remove material with out at least some sort of template for your type of head. Just polishing the ports on their own does very little looks nice about it really. You will have to strip the head right down ie valves out etc I have done many ford Pinto 2ltr head in my time to rally spec. different head I know but the principal is the same Be careful don't just use a dremmel and hope for the best.When is off matching the inlet manifold openings to the head and making sure the gasket is exactly fitting the aperture would be a good thing

Your having a go then? I would! £5 for tin of filler,£1 Poundland primer,£10 to have the right paint mix put in an aerosol and a tin of acrylic lacquer for about £6ish. If your in the boot behind it already you will be able to knock a great deal of it out using mallets,rubber hammers and pieces of wood. Use the other side of the car as a guide. You can even make up cardboard templates from the other side and flip them over to use. YouTube is invaluable here. For just over £20 you will pick up a skill for life. wet and dry,I don't go mad here I use 240 for roughing and 600 for finishing,or wire-wool. I have no body shop experience but I can spray a motorcycle so it looks like new. Good enough to fool a dealer anyway.

if just trying to remove paintwork swirls theres no need for rubbing down with any grit paper , just use a liquid polishing compound , especially if only working by hand. obviously no help to the OP after the fact but may be of use to any readers that follow

Until cyclists pay tax and insurance they can get the hell off my roads as far as I'm concerned.

All sorted...managed to get the old one off in about 45 minutes and took it to local Pirtek branch who replaced the corroded end with a section of flexi hydraulic pipe and a new connector. Total cost including a brass olive £44

You should be proud to show the Ford badge IMO. I can understand why many Vaux####s remove theirs. How about an overlay if you want it to look a little different or blend in more?