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Showing content with the highest reputation on 01/23/2017 in all areas
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I was looking at this again and whilst I still like it there was something that, in my eyes at least,wasn't quite right. Couldn't figure it out until now. The lower left picture is too short, the height the same as the bigger one next to it would be better. And the upper of the two bigger pictures is too big, if it were the same height as the smaller pics either side it wouldn't jut up. Maybe just me being a bit 'anal' though2 points
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A Diesel engine does not have an Idle Control Valve. A Diesel engine does not have a throttle body either. The amount of air is not regulated on a Diesel engine. A diesel engine always sucks in as much air as possible. The engine speed is regulated by controlling the amount of fuel that is injected and the fuel injection timing. Some modern Diesel engines have a throttle plate but this is not designed to regulate the amount of air that is sucked into the engine. This throttle plate creates a vacuum which for example is needed for the EGR valve to work correctly. Another function of the plate is to prevent the engine from juddering when the engine stops. The plate cuts of the air supply and makes the engine stop a bit quicker without juddering. Older Diesel engines did have a mechanical fuel injection pump. On these engines the engine speed at idle can be adjusted by adjustment screws on the pump. These adjustment screws adjust the amount of fuel that is injected and the fuel injected timing so this should only be doene by a specialist. Newer Diesel engines like your 2.0 TDCI have an electronic common rail fuel injection system. This system is fully controlled by the engine management system (PCM) and can not be adjusted manally. Bad idling on a Diesel engine can have many causes but personally I would start checking/diagnosing the fuel system.2 points
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I do like spending 3½ hours in the delightful company of Pipper the springer spaniel. http://www.margaretgreenanimalrescue.org.uk/41870 We bonded instantly (as I did with Brandy 16 years ago), we then had a 2 hour walk around the dog walking paddocks, followed by an hour of play and cuddling. Like a cat, she likes to be cuddled: with her sitting on your lap and nuzzling, And we then had another hours walk, before I had to hand her back, for the visiting time period was closing, for the day. I told the rescue centre I would like to offer her a forever home and for them, to begin the rehoming process. I couldn't have found a better new companion I going to see her tomorrow for another session, and hopefully daily, until the rehoming process concludes and she finally comes to stay2 points
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You'd also need to soundproof the hell out of your doors with amped speakers in, else you'll just get vibrations :)2 points
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If you could link me to where you read that ld be interested to see it myself. the speakers are one thing but you will also need a separate amplifier or amplifiers to enhance the audio levels from the headunit beyond the standard 50Wx 4 output. fitting 500w speakers sounds like a plan but you also need an amplifier to get 500w out of the speakers; if not then you won't get more than 50watts out of them. you won't have any issues with the altinator and those figures; unless the altinator is at the end of its lifespan in which case you would just replace it. a capacitor would help regulate draw from the battery but perhaps not required neither; depending on the class of amplifier or amplifiers purchased Class D wouldn't require a capacitor where Class A, B would and that's because there less efficent not better than a class D tthen there are two types of amplifiers; mono and stereo stereo also known as "full range" amplifier boosts all signals from the headunit sending them to the speaker, you cant send full range audio to a sub as it will potentially separate from the cone because it doesnt have a tweeter to process anything over 50hz a mono amplifier is designed for bass only. only a mono amplifier can take in full range audio but it only passes on anything 50hz or below to the sub. The only option for fitting a single amplifier to do sub and full range speakers is by fitting a five channel amp which can in some cases cost 100gbp more than purchasing two separate units.2 points
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Do you find forum responses from FOC members helpful? We would imagine you did, so please show your appreciation to our members and click "Like" in their post. It's members that go out of their way to help each other that make FOC such a great place, so liking their post is a visual way to say thanks!1 point
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I am looking into changing the factory fog lights on my focus cc2 for DRL Foglights, has anyone done this themselves? And would ypu have any suggestions,1 point
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Hi Peter Thank you for your replay and thoughts. The problem is like someone is flicking a switch when in a corner and the car misfires, along with the misfire I sometimes a get a millisecond burst of power with the throttle in the same position, but again only when in a corner. I did take it to a so-called expert who apparently has the latest and up to date equipment but he couldn’t find the problem. Maybe I try someone who has the Forscan system. Thanks again for your input.1 point
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My 2014 Mondeo TityX doesn't do front and rear automatically - at least the lights don't come on. I'll leave the switch alone next time and see what happens, forecast is -2 tonight so I'll have a go in the morning. My 07 Mondeo ST used to put both on at 3 degrees or so, for about 10 minutes. Like everyone else has said, battery life has nowt to do with the load (not the load we're talking about anyway), it's all about mechanical /chemical degradation within the cells.1 point
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Hi guys all new to this right where to start had loads cars over the years few rs turbo,s live just bought another one that need full resto (in the process of it at the mo) when i bought the car about year ago it come with no history it's been of the road for while as dvla picks no mots up from it I've performed vehicle check its all come back fine . what I'm after is any info service history and old mots any bills or maybe somebody knows of the car and any old owners I could contact .... I have contacted few old owners of the the logbook but had no joy in finding any thing out . Would be great to get some info on the old car or some old pictures etc reg H68YGD cheers 😜1 point
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I like the magnetic Grey and think the deep impact blue looks good in ST-Line guise1 point
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From my experience in a smaller ford dealership for 13 yrs, we only did 1 engine on a focus and that was due to the known coolant pipe breakage. Maybe our customers were lucky?? So out of the 1000's of ecoboosts we saw each year , 1 in 4 years.1 point
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Hi, Sorry for the delay in replying, I did try and reset all of the DTCs but they came straight back. I will have another attempt this evening and tap the IC at the same time to see if it makes a difference. TDCI-Peter, thank you for your in depth response. PDF is great! I've got my paperclips at the ready and will test the diagnostic connector this evening. I'm not bad at soldering so think I can do this in house. I'll be in touch with the results. Thanks again.1 point
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its most likely been like that since it came off the production line, different models of the same car tend to have the same wiring but have different gadgets or extras but all have the same wiring to save money and time on fords end, i cant tell you what its for unfortunately maybe someone can shed some light on this.1 point
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Hello everybody, I'm a new member here, my name is Martin and here are the details of the Ford I just bought yesterday. Its a 1996 Ford Fiesta 1.25 Ghia in purple. It's only had one owner from new and has only done 27,000 miles!!! It has been serviced every single year by the same Ford main dealer so has 21 stamps in the book along with bills/receipts. Full MOT with no advisories. The car has no rust anywhere and is in mint like new condition. I'm so pleased with it, I'll take some pics in daylight and be sure to post them. The only slight problem I have it has is that it has a bit of a shaky idle (not bad but would like to put it right) would I be right in thinking it may need a new MAF sensor? If someone could point me in the right direction on this site about this problem I'd appreciate it!!! In the mean time thanks for accepting me as a member and look forward to getting involved on here.1 point
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Thanks guys. I tried a few things and it seems unless I'm constantly upping the temp as the journey continues, there's no way to stop it blowing out cold air. On Auto, it does as you say @GaryPL, and does seem to eventually start blowing air through the floor vents, sometimes even stopping altogether. This would be fine, but it still starts sending out cold air though the windscreen and side window vents quite a bit of the time. It's pretty irritating having a frigid breeze blowing on your forehead and right hand when the car is supposed to be heating the cabin. So auto is not the answer for me, it seems. Setting the temp to HI makes it too hot! :) No worries, as I said, I'll go back to slowly increasing the temp as I drive and try not to let it bug me too much! Thanks again folks. Very much appreciate the feedback.1 point
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Mine works fine, but then I just realised that My DAB/FM antennae is separated into the rear side windows... ..on my Estate [emoji3] Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk1 point
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i have fitted a few rails to the mondeo estate of the age your refering to. there isnt a kit as such. only way is to buy the original ones as fitted at factory with all the plastic covers and nuts. then guess where to drill large holes on roof. i wouldnt reccomend doing it unless your very confident with drilling and hole enlarging i hated doing them and was time consuming.1 point
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😯Jaysus rigamortis probably hasn't yet set in and your out speed dateing with other biatches 🐾1 point
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