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You've made a classic mistake in your method I'm sorry to say. By all means use touch up coloured paint But to below the cars top layer. Once dried then use a lacquer to just above the cars colour layer. Either use a fine wet n dry then a polish or go to an abrasive paste then a polish.

I went to the Easter meeting recently and thought I would post a couple of videos that I have put together showing some of the cars that were there. This event tales place twice a year, they sell breakfast baps and drinks in aid of the Yorkshire Air Ambulance it is organised by Specialist Cars of Malton who stock some fantastic motors, mainly Porsche and Ferrari but also others including the Citreon DS that is pictured in the second video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tfF2V5vxrCc https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=44h8gzZB-LI&t=4s Hope you enjoy.

It would help if you posted what model, year and engine type and size you have, Otherwise it's just looking into the dark.

I've got 25mm springs and a splitter and im thinking of getting coil overs so I can raise the car a little it's to low hits everything on the splitter

Looks good to me. Any more is ridiculous imo. Also, you need a bit more height on the back, or when you load it up or have passengers, it will sit too low.

Car looks spot on to me. Surely it won't lower anymore, without hitting the wheel arches ? See what other comments you get, but for me save your money it's looks very smart as it is. 👍

Alright i'll be blunt, That black stripe is horrible, The two either side of the badge don't match, the right side comes in more than the left.

Hi am new to the group previous had 2 mk1 focus and now recently got a 2007 fiesta 1.6 zetec s :)

Hi Everyone, My friends dad owns a ford garage and has been tempting me for a while to get a new car, so I took a trip down to his showroom and he had this beauty in stock! I could resist. Has some nice touches like wind deflectors and privacy glass which I think is an essential! :) Let me know what you think! Jack

Hi, Back to a Mondeo after a 5 year aberration with a BMW 525D touring. When people say BMW stands for Big Money Worries they aren't joking!! Looking forward to receiving and giving help and advice on the forum. New car is a 2013 Mondeo Titanium X Business Edition 2.0l diesel estate. Cheers John.

Yes you did. Lol what's your name there. Sent from my HTC 10 using Tapatalk

just meant to show others

great setup why not just head rest monitors? unless its to control what the kids are watching...

do you have a youtube channel of all these installs?

Haha, yeah as tempting as that is I don't fancy having to find a replacement front bumper, bonnet and windscreen for a Peugeot 405!!

I don't like the idiot cyclist I encountered this evening whilst out in the 405! He was cycling along a straight road, looking ahead with both hands on the handlebars, so I checked the road ahead was clear and began to overtake him, only for him to suddenly (without ANY indication) swerve to the right to turn down a side road, putting himself directly in front of my car and forcing me to slam on the brakes and swerve to the left to avoid hitting him at 30MPH. Absolute flipping MORON!!! If I hadn't had my Mother with me in the car I would have followed him and given him a piece of my mind, but alas I did so I carried on and tried to ignore his stupidity. Why are cyclists not made to pass a test prior to being able to cycle on public roads? It's ridiculous! If I had hit him then I would have been at fault and prosecuted for it, despite the fact he was to blame.

thats a biggun lenny... mines only the 7inch oval versoin but with the octacore jazz inside

Keep it as it is, car looks awesome!! From experience coilovers can make the ride really bumpy. I'd never get them again.

I'd expect the Audi A3 to be more refined than the Fiesta (especially in terms of road noise), though I could be wrong, this is only my best guess! I drive a heavy Focus with a 99PS engine, and even in that it's adequate, so it must do great in the Fiesta. That said, life is short, so if getting an ST makes you happy, then go for it ;) At the end of the day, cars are not investments, so go for something that makes you happy, so long as you won't break the bank in doing so. My advice is to test-drive at least a few different petrol vehicles you're interested in, and see how they feel. Often one has a perception of a car being super-amazing in their head, but sometimes the moment you have the test-drive, you realize that it's actually mediocre lol.

There should be a plate on one of the door pillars with your tyre size on it.

If you use 45 profiles the speedo will not show a true reading. They will make your rolling distance shorter. If you want 45 profiles you will need 17 inch rims.

The Focus MK2 and very early MK2.5 versions(produced before approximately May 2008) did have the (optional) 1st generation Bluetooth/Voicecontrol system. This system only supports Bluetooth phone functionality and has mono sound. Later Focus MK2.5 versions did have the (optional) 2nd generation Bluetooth/Voicecontrol systems. The 2nd generation Bluetooth/Voicecontrol system has stereo sound and did have 2 different types of module. The standard Bluetooth/Voicecontrol module only supports Bluetooth phone functionality. The Sound & Connect module supports Bluetooth phone functionality and USB, Bluetooth Audio (A2DP) and Ipod control functionality. Many parts of the 2nd generation Bluetooth/Voicecontrol system are different from the 1st generation Bluetooth/Voicecontrol system. The radio's, Bluetooth/Voicecontrol modules and wiring are different. The GEN 2 and GEN 3 Sony radio's look identical but are technically different. The exact type of radio can only be determined correctly by the part number of the radio. GEN 2 Sony radio's are based on the 1st generation Bluetooth/Voicecontrol system. GEN 3 Sony radio's are based on the 2nd generation Bluetooth/Voicecontrol system. Next to this there are also differences between the Sony radio's for different Ford models. A Sony radio from a Mondeo MK4 or S-max/Galaxy for example is technically different from a Focus radio. A Sony radio from a Mondeo MK4 or S-max/Galaxy uses a different communication protocol which is not completely compatible with a Focus MK2/MK2.5. During diagnostics there is no communication possible with an incorrect type of radio and it is not possible to configure the radio. You should also be aware that the Bluetooth/Voicecontrol module needs to be configured correctly. Most Ford models uses the same types of Bluetooth/Voicecontrol module but have different configurations. A Bluetooth/Voicecontrol module from a Focus, C-max or Kuga should be plig and play. A Bluetooth/Voicecontrol module from a different Ford model needs to be configured correctly. If not configured correctly the module will not work correctly. Configuration can easily be done with a (modified) ELM327 interface and the free ELMconfig software.

Just bought this one

I am not sure mate, I am only learning the hole thing at the moment.. Maybe try and find out if the radio is a stock 6000CD or a Gen 3g as Wilco wrote before. I can try an find the number of my radio if that helps..( how did you get it? if possible without removing it as I don't have the tools for this :) ) To be confirmed as well, but I am pretty sure that I saw somewhere that the wiring is slightly different on the MK2 and MK2.5.. but I might be talking rubbish, especially if you already have a BT module installed.

Make sure its set to USB output and not Bluetooth. Check the output by swiping up to contol centre, and checking its not on SYNC and instead through 'Dock Connector'. I reccommend using Bluetooth and charging your phone using the cigarette lighter. Works much better

TSB 10-8-5 CLICK/POP NOISE FROM FRONT END WHILE TURNING OR GOING OVER BUMPS Publication Date: April 27, 2010 FORD: 2008-2010 Focus This article supersedes TSB 09-18-2 to update the Service Procedure, Service Labor Time Standards and Part List. ISSUE: Some 2008-2010 Focus vehicles may exhibit a click/pop type noise from the front end while turning and/or driving over bumps, or a creak/squeak noise from front when driving over bumps. The noise may be isolated to front stabilizer bar end links, front upper strut bearing area, and/or lower control arm. ACTION: Follow the service procedure to correct the condition. SERVICE PROCEDURE Install Chassis Ear JSP97202 in the Rotunda Technician Tool Program or equivalent to identify and isolate the source of the noise. Drive the vehicle over moderate bumps and perform left and right turns. If a click/pop noise is coming from front stabilizer bar end link(s), proceed to Step 3. If a click/pop noise is from upper strut bearing area, go to Step 4. If a creak/squeak type noise is coming from a lower control arm, go to Step 5. Front stabilizer bar end link click/pop noise. Is vehicle built on or before 1/11/2010? Yes - remove and install four (4) revised stabilizer bar end link nuts per Workshop Manual (WSM), Section 204-01; torque to 46 lb-ft (63 N-m). No - replace affected stabilizer bar end link(s) per WSM, Section 204-01; torque nuts to 46 lb-ft (63 N-m). Upper strut bearing click/pop noise. Is vehicle built on or between 10/01/2007 and 10/31/2007? Yes - replace upper strut bearing per WSM, Section 204-01; torque nuts to 30 lb-ft (40 N-m). No - proceed to Step 3b. Is vehicle built on or before 11/30/2008? Yes - inspect the three (3) upper strut mount nuts for signs of looseness. Torque nuts to 30 lb-ft (40 N-m). No - replace suspect strut per WSM, Section 204-01; torque upper nuts to 30 lb-ft (40 N-m). Lower control arm creak/squeak noise. Replace the affected lower control arm per WSM, Section 204-01. PART NUMBER PART NAME 9S4Z-3078-A Lower Control Arm - Right Hand 9S4Z-3079-A Lower Control Arm - Left Hand 9S4Z-18124-C Front Strut - Right Hand, w/ Rear Stabilizer Bar 9S4Z-18124-E Front Strut - Right Hand, w/o Rear Stabilizer Bar 9S4Z-18124-D Front Strut - Left Hand, w/ Rear Stabilizer Bar 9S4Z-18124-F Front Strut - Left Hand, w/o Rear Stabilizer Bar 8S4Z-18198-A Strut Bearing AS4Z-5K484-AA Front Stabilizer Bar End Link W-713760-S440 Nut - Stabilizer Bar Link WARRANTY STATUS: Eligible Under Provisions Of New Vehicle Limited Warranty Coverage IMPORTANT: Warranty coverage limits/policies are not altered by a TSB. Warranty coverage limits are determined by the identified causal part. OPERATION DESCRIPTION TIME 100805A 2008-2010 Focus: Includes Diagnosing With Chassis Ears And Road Test, Labor Operation Should Be Claimed With B, C, D, E, F Or G (Do Not Use With Any Labor Operations Outside Of This Article) 0.8 Hr. 100805B 2008-2010 Focus: Replace Four (4) Stabilizer Bar End Link Nuts Or Stabilizer Bar End Links, Labor Operation Can Be Claimed With A, C, D, E, F And G (Do Not Use With Any Labor Operations Outside Of This Article) 0.2 Hr. 100805C 2008-2010 Focus: Replace One (1) Upper Strut Bearing Or Strut Assembly, Labor Operation Can Be Claimed With A, B, E, F, And G (Do Not Use With Any Labor Operations Outside Of This Article) 0.5 Hr. 100805D 2008-2010 Focus: Replace Both (2) Sides Upper Strut Bearings Or Strut Assemblies, Labor Operation Can Be Claimed With A, B, F And G (Do Not Use With Any Labor Operations Outside Of This Article) 0.8 Hr. 100805E 2008-2010 Focus: Tighten Both (2) Sides Upper Strut Bearing Retainers, Labor Operation Can Be Claimed With A, B, F And G (Do Not Use With Any Labor Operations Outside Of This Article) 0.1 Hr. 100805F 2008-2010 Focus: Replace One (1) Lower Control Arm, Labor Operation Can Be Claimed With A, B, C, D And E (Do Not Use With Any Labor Operations Outside Of This Article) 0.3 Hr. 100805G 2008-2010 Focus: Replace Both (2) Sides Lower Control Arms, Labor Operation Can Be Claimed With A, B, C, D, E And F (Do Not Use With Any Labor Operations Outside Of This Article) 0.4 Hr. DEALER CODING BASIC PART NO. CONDITION CODE 3B438 24

Not particularly clued up on tyres to be honest. Here's a link with a tyre size guide for all fiestas - https://www.wheel-size.com/size/ford/fiesta/

I had to shorten the bar by around 4mm with a Stanley Knife. A proper job!

How many rotations does it take for full left lock? If it is more than 1.5 the rack needs recentering. I wouldn't look for other issues before that is done as they could all go away as a result and the process of doing it will give plenty of opportunity for finding if anything is bent/broken.

Car looks good fitting coilovers can be a real pain to set up correctly as to do it properly you need to sit the car on scales to get the corner weight over each wheel. Plus going any lower and you may have trouble getting over speed bumps etc especially if you are thinking of fitting a front splitter

I have now found friendly car restorer #(escorts RS somethings he has done a few complete rebuilds powder coating etc) who will lend me his battery impact gun (friend of a close friend van man) 'this will undo everything'. So a bit of luck there already. Ian if you could get hold of one of these it would make life easier. These are espensive bits of kit £250 second hand so out of my reach.# this is what he paid. as MJ Newton said with the impact tool the crank will barely move and therefore no damage will occur. Easy then to get to TDC the rest is easy. Common High pressure rail for my tdci so no pump to time. About 1 month away for me I look forward to hearing how you go on Ian/ HenryV.

is the grinding the tyre or wheel rubbing on something?. all sounds a bit odd. If for example someone screwed one track rod end on 1 cm more than it ought to be, and screwed the other track rod end on 1cm less than it should be then I think you could create what you have here. Sounds to me like it needs jacking up at the front so that both wheels are off the ground and you can turn the steering freely from one end to the other and have a look at what is going on. sounds like someone has cocked it all up, or bent something by driving into something.

the black on bonnet looks good (love a good stripe) but the badge bit could be done all bit of patents could do it justice but end of the day its your car and you can do what you like.

Hi Welcome

Yup, the 1.25/1.4/1.6 Zetec engines are all the same to do and seem to be a favourite considering the amount of them i have done! I can email you some pics if interested if you pm me your email. I have a Milwaukee m18 fuel impact gun that rips the crank bolts out for fun but if you only have a breaker bar is suggest putting some heat on the bolt first to break the bond - I used to have to do this with my old impact gun. i used to use the flywheel locking tool, for the extra 5 mins to unbolt the starter it was a good insurance that nothing is going to move or bed managed by putting the force on the timing pin.

frund, as yours is tdci 1.6 , then any timing procedures for the 1.25 or 1.4/1.6 petrol is not relevant to your diesel. actualy your diesel is one of the easiest to do

I got one from AliExpress that fits very well with the screw holes well hidden. Colour is a bit off but not really noticeable.

Thanks stef123, I'm inclined to agree and was considering researching the availability of such a tool. I think I read a post by you on these forums where you had posted a successful belt change on a 1.25 Zetec engine? May I ask how you went about removing the crankshaft pulley bolt? Did you use a flywheel locking tool?

The common element here seems to be the MS CAN bus. This bus links the BCM (aka GEM or passenger fuse box), the Door modules (including locking motors and the repeater lights on the wing mirrors), and the Instrument Cluster (IC). It also goes to the Park aid, seat belt controller (ARS), and radio. The handbrake switch goes into the BCM, and its status goes via the MS-CAN bus to the IC. The ambient temperature sensor is wired to the BCM, again over the bus to the IC. The remote control signals are handled in the BCM, and again go via this bus to the Doors. Same with mirror lights. Forscan, with a "modified" ELM237 can read the MS-CAN bus, and all the modules on it. It may show some errors. The MS-CAN bus goes to pins 3 & 11 on the diagnostic connector. With the ignition off (for enough time to power down the bus), a multimeter should read 60 ohms between these two pins. Also, while testing this, I would tap the fascia around the IC, to see if it made any changes. (Connector pin-out widely out on the net, or I can give more details if wanted.) On a 2007 Focus, the IC is a suspect. 2006 was the prime year for faulty ICs, My car, along with loads of other 2006 cars have had this (on the HS-CAN bus), but it could creep into 2007. There are some big connectors just in front of the passenger door (if the CC3 is like a normal Focus there), I am sure the MS-CAN bus goes through some of these. It does sound like an intermittent electrical fault on this bus.

Hi Bannko, please may you provide me with guidance on how to unlock the sat nav functionality also? Great to see all the support in this forum! Cheers, Rickardo

I don't know about the lights on this car, but I know on some cars if the handbrake light stays on when the handbrake light is released it is telling you that the brake fluid is too low in the brake fluid reservoir.

You can remove the starter and fit a locking tool if you wish, probably a better option for anyone who has little experience of timing belts to be fair.

I can see what your saying MJ Newton. This makes sense. Its a shame you're so far away Ian. We could have helped each other. Your car first in case we make a cockup of course

Hi Lenny, once again many thanks for your help and for coming back to me quick. I will give that a go and keep you posted as to how it goes. Cheers.

What type of engine does your car have? The front ST brakes can be retrofitted to every Focus MK3/MK3.5. To do this you need the following parts: * Left front brake caliper. * Right front brake caliper. * 2x splash shield. * 2x brake caliper bracket. * 2x 320 mm brake disc.

Some more progress today:

Hi David welcome to the forum when you pick her up - get some pics up

Hi Welcome

Halfrauds caused £400 worth of damage to my car last year, stay well clear of these butchers..

in that case its probably not the problem :)