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It is also worth noting that the gas is a mixture of refrigerant and lubricant. The loss of the latter will eventually lead to seals drying out and, as perhaps might be the case here, failure of the compressor. Furthermore, lack of pressure can lead to air being drawn in which, given its moisture content, can then lead to corrosion if the dryer is unable to absorb it.

Actually the garage could get done for what they did. Refrigerant is highly damaging to the environment if released (toxic), so anyone with a licence to gas air con units is supposed to check for leaks before gassing. The fact there was little gas in the system tells me there is a leak, refrigerant doesn't just disappear from a closed system. If the pump hasn't been used for a while then just starting the AC compressor might have just disturbed something and caused it to fail. Overgassing, or gassing incorrectly can cause too much liquid to be in the compressor (or pump, whatever you want to call it)(everything feeding the compressor should be a vapour), and could have hydraulically locked meaning the piston couldn't go anywhere and "exploded". As for wrong refrigerant, I very much doubt it. R134-a is the most common used in any fridge (or air con, same principle) for a good while now, and nothing different is ever really used on cars as most are banned. R22 has been outlawed by the EU for years. As you said, it could have also been caused by running dry, but make sure the garage checks for leaks before re-gassing it after you get the compressor changed, they should know that anyway though. Source: I'm learning for city and guilds in refrigeration.

my phone has this problem i found it to be the phone its self the volume on the phone has to be turned up max while on bluetooth to get the same volume. hope this helps

I reckon it's your drive belt/ pulleys, spray some WD-40 around the drive belt tensioner area and see if that cures that bird singing. It won't hurt the bird so the RSPB need not know. 😋

Guys / Gals, It has been reported by some members and noticed by the Moderating team that the sizes of members post signatures are getting a tad too big again. While we appreciate that many members have a lot to be proud of with regards to their cars & projects, oversized signatures can detract from the layout and readability of lengthy posts and threads. It would be appreciated if any 'offending' Members could review their signatures andf reduce/edit as necessary. The official size is deemed as 500 x 200 but we are not expecting precise dimensions, close enough is good enough. Your assistance in this matter is greatly appreciated.

Hoping to have some questions answered about my 08 FOrd Focus TItanium. I'm clueless when it comes to cars

Hey Guys After driving 3 door cars(VW, Audi,Honda) I have purchased a family car..got 3 kids now.. I have just ordered a S-Max Vignale 2.0 Diesel fully spec with Pan roof,park assist,Sony DAB. They also giving me free Diamond Brite free of charge. Is there I need to be aware of with S-Max? Any help would be appreciated Thanks

Hi all I recently bought an 04 Focus Ghia and found some great info & tips on the forum when I searched so wanted to say hello & thanks as I will probably be asking more questions than I can answer! The car will be used daily after a few things to get it MOT'd (a couple of plates on the sills, CV boot, brake pipe) then onto tidying up the bodywork, it's really good mechanically and a great interior, 80000 & FSH(!) for £150. Cheers John

Well one way or another they are all communications problems or seem to be. 2 are lost communication 3 are are invalid data communicated. In this circumstance and particularly bearing in mind your history of non-use I would try: - try removing the connectors from the modules give a spray of contact cleaner and wiggle around and re-try - while you are there loo at the earths at the modules and if they appear corroded clean up and use contact cleaner Faults after storage are often down to corrosion particularly if the car has been a little damp. Beyond that you might be well advised to try an auto electrician. I'm not sure that there is much argument for messing around with relays (the fault doesn't seem to be one of the relays) or the ABS module itself (it seems to be likely to be something to do with the CAN bus and inter-module communication rather than the ABS module unless it is the comms part of the ABS module with rather peculiar faults).

I think if this happened to me I would just do without the aircon. Is it worth spending the amount of money needed to fix it. I know it's nice to have aircon, but many years ago 99% of cars did not have it and we all survived.

Yeah. Just check it doesn't feed anything else. 15a seems alot for a couple bulbs, then again I'm not familiar with the mk6.

Nevermind, very rookie mistake from me, didnt realise there is two fuse sections for the cigarette lighter.

Araldite rapid works a treat, pull the trim off (it'll leave the clips in the bodywork) clean the old glue from the trim and the clips, mix up the epoxy (araldite rapid) and put it on the clips then offer the trim up and either clamp it in place or tape it tight with masking tape. (Lower the window and wrap the tape around the pillar). Did mine on my fiesta mk6 about 7 years ago and it's still on!

I wouldn't bother with 'specs' for mpg as they're complete nonsense and this is why -> http://www.dft.gov.uk/vca/fcb/the-fuel-consumption-testing-scheme.asp

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk www.tomholroydphotography.co.uk

Check out SJ Conversions on facebook if you have it, The guy does top quality work and will be able to help you change the color of your instrument cluster, windows switches ect.

Mate i see where you are coming from,i care 24/7 for my elderly dad and i did think 2017 would be a bit better but its like everything has been turned upside down as its got worse,when people who are very close to you im 100% with you as it has a massive effect on yourself as it does make you feel in a very bad way and place,hope all turns out a bit better mate.

I don't like finding out that Edd China is leaving Wheeler Dealers due to the new production company wanting to cut costs by reducing the workshop segments of the show. The show is all about working on cars, cutting this back will ruin the whole thing. Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

Why not change them for a set of ST/RS led rear lights like the these

Couldn't agree more lol. Looks cheaply made and very plasticy

Wow. The US one is uugly. Haha

Personally I always change springs in pairs.

question should be - is it worth it? never use mine and battery has to have full charge to work properly. - even when it does work / switched on I haven't really benefitted enough from it to justify having it in the first place. just another one of those gadgets waiting to go wrong.

To be fair, it might have gapping wide loop holes in it but it does keep most of the really dangerous stuff off the road. in Oz they don't have an MOT and some of the things on the road are death traps. Personally, I think your right, we shouldn't have a situation where an under shield can hide things and they cant take it off, but equally, I think the MOT should concentrate on the important things, get back to basics, the danger is that more and more gets added to the test which adds more work to the garage which potentially means stuff gets over looked. I see cars and lorries driving about that look like a strong gust of wind will send panels flying off it yet a perfectly good car can fail because a child seat is in the back. IMHO, they have been bolting on additions to the test for decades, its time to scrap it and start anew.

Cant help with the wheel size, though I'd have thought 19's would generate more noise, however the standard noise dampening is excellent... As for SYNC 3, I have been amazed at how responsive it is, the only time I ever see any sort of lag is when it sin CarPlay mode and awaiting the phone response, even then its a miniscule delay. My friend has a high end Merc with loads of bells and whistles, his infotainment system was noticeably more laggy than SYNC 3. Pretty amazing for a humble Mondeo

Are you sure it's not bypassing an injector seal?

Regarding sync 3, are you sure you weren't reading about sync 2 ? That was very slow, sync 3 is MUCH faster. I've not noticed any slowness in mine. Response to the touchscreen is pretty much instant, and even voice recognition seems to work

Well, based on no knowledge whatsoever of the actual vehicle, I would imagine that while the tyre noise would be a bit worse it is the kind of thing that is very variable by tyre brand/type and rating, so my impression is that you'd probably be able to find a relatively quiet type of tyre that would minimise the problem. That said, be aware that going 19" already increases the cost and limits the choice of tyre, so you might find that limiting the choice yet further is not what you'd call a good thing.

I'm doing some work just now for someone on a BMW 420d, front pads first of all but it's done 30k miles in its first year and that's a set of pads done and close to the backing plate! Fair enough when cars are serviced at correct intervals, these things will be picked up and under normal driving and mileage (12k miles annually?) suspension, brake components and basically everything else should be expected to last is guess until its first mot.

Well, that's a prime example of why the MOT (even the first one) is necessary!!

The German test is considerably more thorough than ours, unlike out testers: their German counterparts can strip the cars the to inspect the components.. A German test takes a few hours. As far as I can recall, my former Astra, from it's service history, had it's first MOT on 119K miles, and gathered 21 fails and 27 advisories!

What was the fault code which led them to believe it was the coil or plug? Its a cylinder head off job now, at the very least a burnt valve.

Don't these turn it white when it dries,the main parts are the gear surround and sill plastic,tried a few stuff but when it dries it still has the marks,its like it dries the plastic out or something putting it in a weird way.

mot not a revenue maker for the gov as such as the mot fee mostly goes to garage, around £2 the gov get for admin.

No crazier than the pointless MOT to be fair. An MOT means diddly squat and has always been a revenue maker for the Government. It would be far better probably if the system was scrapped and a proper system was introduced to make sure cars are roadworthy. Whether a car is tested after 1 year from new or 10 years it still doesn't mean that vehicle is safe to be on the road after driving out the MOT test centre. The MOT test is a farce and always has been. Even more so with newer cars everything is covered by some piece of plastic so testers can't even check a lot of critical stuff these days of them can't see it. Get rid of the MOT and replace it with something more robust and fit for purpose. Simples. Sent from my HTC One M9 using Tapatalk

went to a car meet yesterday at cosford RAF base was with a group im with called Defined rides my first meet with them, cuffed with the turn out, another group were there and so were jaguar owners club, got alot of attention and i enjoyed it, got some good ideas of what i can do next.

i do hope you meant 58mpg and not 58mph round town!! lol

strange it was the right size but this site enlarged it

That's actually 1000 x 401

Just to add, that's about 10 lines of "un-resized" normal text. If you want more lines, use a smaller font. Also it's not a 500x200 image plus 10 lines, it's either/or, or a combination of both. e.g. 5 lines plus a 500x100 image, etc. If you want to links on the forum, I suggest you hit the button to "display as a link instead", when it converts your URL to a massive quote box.

i was in the local multi story parking to do some shopping when i decided to go up to the top floor unfortunately roof level was closed so i snapped a few pics. the next day (Saturday) i had a spare 4 hours while the missus was at work so i gave her a good bath with full cover of paint restorer and polish topped off with extra gloss protection, the first proper was iv been able to do, now its looking like it should gleaming and looking white, then it rained an hour later so i got to see the beading, i now hoping the dirt will fall off now iv put the paint protection on.

I have similar problems with a 2014 Ecoboost. Normally this occurs as when others say, the weather is cold (probably also some dampness) or of the car has been sitting for a while and has not been used. For me I travel for work a lot so normally this is around after 1 week. As it is being used almost everyday right now the problem has largely gone.

The 1.0 ECOboost is a great engine. It is a much nicer engine than the old 4-cilinder 1.6 Duratec and 1.8 Duratec HE engines it replaces. I would recommend to go for the 125 HP version of the 1.0 ECOboost. The 125 HP version has the 6-speed B6 gearbox combined with a dual mass flywheel. The 100 HP version has the old 5-speed IB5 gearbox combined with a single mass flywheel (this is currently the only Focus MK3/MK3.5 engine that still has a single mass flywheel). Due to the dual mass flywheel the 125 HP version runs a bit more quiet and has less vibrations than the 100 HP version. There are a few technical differences between the 100 HP versin and the 125 HP version. The 125 Version has a different cilinder head and a differet turbo than the 100 HP version. The 125 HP version can be remapped to higher output values tan the 100 HP version. Next to this the 5-speed gearbox has a torque limititation of 170 Nm. A stock 100 HP 1.0 ECOboost still has a maximum torque output of 170 Nm so remapping this engine can result in gearbox damage. The 6-speed gearbox has a torque limitation of 250 Nm torque. The torque limitations of the 5-speed gearbox is also the reason that the 100 HP version doe not have the overboost function like the 125 HP version. In my opinion the cooling system is the only point of concern of the 1.0 ECOboost (and also the 1.6 ECOboost) engine. The coolant temperature of the 1.0 and 1.6 direct injected ECOboost engines is a bit higher than the coolant temperature of a conventional natural aspirated engine. The higher coolant temperature results in premature ageing and deteriorating of plastic/rubber parts of the coolant system. The coolant return hose is a known example of this problem. The original coolant return hose was made of material that as a result of the high coolant temperature becomes hardened and eventually breaks. This cause the coolant to leak away very quick. The 1.0 and 1.6 ECOboost engines have a coolant temperature sensor which directly measures the coolant temperature. When the coolant leaks away the sensor will measure air instead of coolant and does not detect overheating. Because of the problems of the coolant return hose Ford recalled all vehicles with the 1.0 ECOboost engine that have the affected type of hose (the 1.6 ECOboost is officially not affected but also suffers from this problem). My eperience is that not only the coolant return hose suffers from premature ageing and deteriorating of plastic/rubber parts. The coolant reservoir is also a point of concern.On my 125 HP 1.0 ECOboost the coolant reservoir did suffer from microcracks and discolouration at a mileage of just under 20.000 KM. I did not want to take any risk and decided to change the coolant reservoir and cap as a precaution. These pars are pretty cheap to replace. Both the reservoir and the cap costed me less than €25,-. All versions of the 1.0 ECOboost that are produced before 05-05-2014 did onl;y have the additional electric coolant pump if a towing hook was factory fitted. When retrofitting a towing hook Ford prescribes to retrofit the additional electric coolant pump. All versions of the 1.0 ECOboost that are produced after 05-05-2014 do have the additional electric coolant pump as standard. The additional electric coolant pump is activated when the engine is switched off and the engine temperature is still above a certain value. The electric pump circulates the coolant and this way actively cools the engine block and the turbo after the engine has been switched off. Ford must have had a very good reason to decide to install the additional electric coolant pump as standard after 05-05-2014. Despite I do not have a towing hook I still decided to install the additional electric coolant pump. My experience is that even at average ambient temperatures the electric pump is activated for several minutes after the engine has been switched off.

Hi. I also have the exact same condition on my 2014 MY 1.0 Zetec EcoBoost. I was concerned that the brake pads had worn through on the one side and the noise was the sound of metal on metal. After reading some comments on here I feel it has armed me with some info should I phone the dealership and have no joy. I am due to change the car for a 015 plate in March and don't want any unexpected costs from the dealer's service dpt.

no wonder Ford are giving it away free, it looks like the public are doing the testing :) when it starts going funny does that annoying paperclip pop up and ask if it can help ? :) If Sync is pants, then has anyone changed the HU for a half decent double din unit ?

Mine freezes when it is 'Auto Indexing' and that &#33;Removed&#33; women with her so unnatural voice <_< grrrrrrrrr its like they have installed a system that is running from a processor taken from an Atari, Commodore or Spectrum computer!!

Microsoft are the brains behind this Ford Sync crap, why why why did Ford team up with them, we now have systems installed in the Fiesta that are capable of recording data and can be downloaded and read by experts in the event of an accident You can guarantee every service the car goes in for there will be a Ford Sync update to be installed to iron out continuous niggles.

Thanks for the responses. It's definitely not the ABS, as it makes the noise even when approaching a junction under very light braking at slow speeds - nowhere fast enough to activate the ABS. As suggested by Jonny87, I thought it may have been the disks with corrosion, but the noise continues even after long journeys - after I've given the brakes a good thrashing. I don't think its affecting the braking performance yet, its just a nagging problem, and I know there's something not quite right with them. Will let you know what the dealer says. Cheers.