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i respectfully disagree , all those filters are paper based and will degrade with age even if the car isnt used heavily.

You will be very aware of the principle and benefits of KISS hence my surprise at you trying to seek such a tightly integrated solution, not least for an event you should expect (or at least hope!) never to actually see occurring. Fully agree on that point. Moreover, however, I would say you want something that doesn't 'look' at all e.g. the use of a buzzer secreted behind the dash that is completely independent of anything but the monitoring circuit itself. This ought to maximise reliability, maximise attention seeking (an audible alarm could attract your attention sooner than a visible indicator and in the case of coolant loss every second will count), minimise cost and minimise effort. As an electronics engineer myself I'm all for smart and clever solutions - even for no other reason than 'because you can' - but selecting them over other, more basic, options that might offer greater benefits is usually done at your peril. On a completely different note did you consider a non-contact fluid sensor so as to avoid hacking the reservoir? The last thing you will want is your detection method actually being the cause of the thing you are trying to detect! ;-)

Hi All, total newbie to the whole car scene. I recently purchased a 2009 mk2 (facelift) Focus Titanium 1.8 petrol. Probably a stupid question as most newbies ask.... Is there a way to incease the power? I searched high and low for turbo kits etc but cant seem to find anything for my particular model. Ive found tonnes for 1.6 zetec or 1.8 zetec or 2.0 rs/st but theyre all diesel apart from the rs/st Any suggestions? (stop looking?) lol . I dont know much about cars but im competent enough to do an internet search and it just looks like this isnt possible specifically for my 1.8 petrol engine? Any advice would be greately appriciated. Thanks all

New to the forum, just thought id show of my Ford streetka winter edition 😀 What do you think?

Got a call about a 'wheel bearing' job for the weekend. guy was joining dual carriageway at around 50-60mph and all of a sudden with no prior warning felt the back end of the car going. its completely worn through the tyre too. looks to me like the hub nut has split and fell away as there is no witness marks on the thread other than where it once sat. No work has been carried out on that corner in years either so it hasn't been disturbed. New discs/pads with bearings and tyre required. Hopefully the stub axle is ok but I won't know until I strip it down.

hi, just got a mk6 fiesta. trying to decide between carbon vinyl or gloss black overlays for the badges - opinions?

Hopefully picking up a ford fiesta metal on thursday, i used to own a puma a year or so back, however i tuen defected to the dark side and bought a mazda biy ibwas wrong to do that rather unreliable so ive opted for a ford again, is theor any advice on what to look out for on a fiesta metal edition?

New member here from South Wales. I was looking to get rid of my 2009 Fiesta Zetec S for a more practical vehicle in order to transport my mountain bike. After months of searching for the right *cough* Caddy *cough* I’ve come to the conclusion that I am now going to keep the Fiesta, give a bit of TLC and buy a new mountain bike. Excellent plan – just don’t tell the Mrs. It is my first car and I have had it for 4 years; passed in July 2013 and it has served me pretty damn well. Time to return the favour! My current plans are as follows: · Fix the damage on the paintwork; driver side, passenger side, front bumper, rear bumper and boot (where my cheap bike rack has been gnawing at the paint work). · Fit a Thule roof rack · Alloy refurb · Maybe a new head unit? · Personalised number plate – 30th birthday soon… Open to ideas regarding the head unit but I’ll create a new thread for that in the Fiesta section. Apart from that, the forums look vast and detailed at quick glance. Can’t wait to get nosing around when I’m home. I’ll post up some pictures when I’m home too! Thanks for reading. Ske

Very simple. Squirt the fasteners with Rost Off an hour or so beforehand, sorted.

I don't like discovering this morning my oven display dead. Upon rudimentary investigation, there is power reaching it, but it looks like the controller board has failed Reading all the Trust Pilot reviews of the model, state this is particularly common fault and most people find theirs packing up at considerably younger than mine. Mine is 12 years old, everyone else's seems to fail at around 3 years old So at least it's lasted longer than it's peers I also noted from the reviews , it's a "contractor's special", it's not built to last and everyone agrees it has quality issues Unfortunately, the solenoid that opens the gas valve is permanently shut, so I can't even light the gas manually: like you used to be able to do with older ovens.

Thats good then atleast it didnt come out your pocket, it sounds more like something is loose and swinging around in there to be honest, i dont know much about cars so just wanted to get abit of a incline before i take it to my mechanic

DONT CRANK UNTIL START.... i tried this this and failed had flat battery and massive trapped air.use advice above and make sure your new filter is soaked with plenty fuel and plenty fuel in the filter insert.

This is quite bizzare but I did what Stoney said and undid the gunky tape around the connections, it was like glue and sticking to my fingers. I started by cleaning all the wires with just a dry cloth, plugged in the new head unit and bingo all was working. I jiggled the wires a fair bit to make sure that there quad no lose connections, all seems good at the moment. Can't understand why gunky ekectrical tape would affect the connections but at the moment that seems the case. Photo attached is of the tape removed and the wires cleaned.

Perhaps better getting the Haynes manual and chopping the block

very nice motor

Expensive. The others I linked to above are cheaper and claim to give more light, though are also predominantly DRLs. Not sure about the CANBUS issue though. We need a wealthy guinea pig to buy, try and report back 😃

Everytime you post an update it makes me go onto Auto Trader and search for a mk2!! Please stop Looking good tho mate!

You need full license forscan and will need to access the main apm module and select engineering 2 then you can change the values to yes or I in rear camera

Seeing as my connector wiring seems to have been altered (See photo) at some stage does anybody know how it should look when it left the factory. What coloured wires should go into which terminal points. If I can put it back how it should be perhaps it might cure the problem. If I were to just discontent the phone or the aux terminal block would it do anything or do they both need to be inserted without question?

With those cylinders being so close together and small wall thickness its something i cant see why ford never did from new, btw love the build and love the sound of a 5 pot if only i could have a 5 pot noise in my mk3 st :( was the CP340 ST a mk3?

I would recommend the Team heko ones they look much nicer

Here's a diagram of the plug All speakers are wired independently; the only location where they all come in line with each other is at the rear of the headunit. A common problem is for the rear speakers to stop working; I've narrowed this down to be a problen in the wiring between the chassis and the rear doors possibly inside the rubber goose neck. The reason I know this; is because I've completely stripped out the stock system and installed a full JL Audio C3 650 kit with amplifiers and aftermarket wiring, the only part of the factory wiring I kept was the connection between the chassis and the rear doors which I now regret because I'm now experiencing the common problem of the rear speakers not working which is wrecking my head as I've invested 280GBP in a set of speakers which are in the back doing nothing.

What ELM cable do you use? And what error do you get if you are trying to read data using Forscan? You can also activate the directions in cluster using Forscan. But if you are already unable to do it with Focccus not sure if you will be able to do it via Forscan. Hit me a PM with your e-mail and i will send you the instructions how to activate it there via Forscan.

Petrol, no engine lights are on. last serviced in November 2016 and leads and coil changed on the weekend

Nah not going to buy it. As I use the Waze app on my phone anyway. Always upto date maps, shows traffic, etc. etc.

Hi Welcome

Someone has chopped the wiring ar some point. I'd un-tape all the bodge then solder & insulate the wires properly to avoid crossed feeds.

So a little bit of an update but all of the modifications I've got for the car now aren't cheap so progress will be slow and steady. As you all know, I had it lowered and as a result I had to get the tracking done. Attached is a picture but was only a point of a degree out so hardly worth doing to be honest. Following on from the tracking episode I took it on a 500mile English Holiday to Poole. It performed so well but loved them V-Power Stop Offs!!! I didn't take any pictures whilst on my adventures unfortunately. When I got back I treated the car to a quick lick over and then it was off again to Fiesta in The Park! I attended with The Ford Bible this year and had some pictures done by Ben who works with them. Whilst there, there was cheeky purchase of a glossed rear wiper! Had one of my Mk2 and really thought they set the back off! So here's the real update I will get these bad boys fitted!! Most will have identified these already but I am having the RS BREMBO Brakes fitted to ensure when I start to put the power through I can stop! To ensure the brakes fit with my existing wheels I had to buy some 5mm spacers. I ordered these from DEMON TWEEKS and will have to say I'm a little disappointed because they sent me 10mm. I wanted 5mm because I wanted to try and get away with not spacing the back. These are the ones I went for in the end for the record :) Over the coming weeks there will be another deep clean because it is filthy plus there are a couple of swirls making a return already! I thought Black was a good move because of how anal I am but this is testing me! C&C Welcome

@Madzook2514, you will need to purchase the camera module from some clever russians! cost me about $100 with shipping. Link is http://pro-ford.com/focus/ford-focus-3/sistemy-bezopasnosti-ohrany-i-pomoschi/kamery-zadnego-vida-i-ekrany/neoriginalnyy-modul-kamery-ekrana-mfd5/?currency=USD once it arrives you will need to wire it into the canbus system near the passenger side of the console, i can help with the details. you will also need a special cable to activate the camera in the cars configuration. cheaply obtained from ebay and software focccus is free. anything else you need feel free to ask.

Hi I clip mine here in the picture this mount is under the battery box which I took out there is a plate over the top of this but you should be able to fit it between the two plates good luck

When they say LED is usually just the brake lights which are with the rest normal bulbs from mondeo manual. The following are LED Brake/Rear High Mounted Brake Rear Indicators Side Indicators

Couple of updates! First off, just a quick few examples of how the car is looking currently :) added a Ford Mania decal to the rear - this is one of my most favourite groups on social media Got some mad shine after giving the car a good clean and taking it down to the shops. Caught the sun and BAM Had originally decided to paint my battery cover black so I could add some detailing decals on. And had the chrome fuse box cover too. Also changed one of the coolant hoses to the green one, but it is quite a tight fit so have ordered some different ones to get a better fit and hopefully have both done.. These didn't last long.. I managed to find some carbon parts to replace them! I'm a simple person...I see carbon.. I like. Battery cover & Fuse box cover replaced with the carbon ones. Hopefully in the coming month I will be looking to replace the orange silicone hoses with lime green ones and give these ones to my friend as his theme is orange based. Completely off topic but my favourite car from the AMG fleet at work is now not going to be used for experiences as it's getting on a bit for the track.. RIP C63 Black Series (6.2 ltr NA beast) OK back to things.. So the last few months (although I have been still modifying) I have been trying to save for something called the Block Mod. This procedure in essence is strengthening the engine in order to run more power through it. It's prep work before I am able to get the car remapped and bring in some of those horses we are all looking to attain! The block mod is a really long job as it involves taking the head off. It's basically a super major service including changing cam belt, tensioners, water pump, head gasket, cleaning all of the cylinder heads and piston components. Whilst this is all done, metal shims are implanted inbetween the cylinder wall liners in order to strengthen the engine. I now have no worries about getting the 'cracked liners' or overheating the car by adding more power. I have a tonne of photos but I'll just put in a few to show some of the work.. Arrived at BD Performance in Dover around 8.30 AM Came down with my friend who was also having the same work done. This is the first time BD performance in Kent have attempted to do 2 in a day. Cheeky foreign RS also in for some work. They had about 5 or 6 Focus STs and Focus RS outside the unit.. Which was to come in handy later on when I explain.. We knew the job was going to be all day so thankfully Andy Cashmore from BD performance let us borrow his Red Focus ST (one of a few). The car was stage 1 remaopped to around 280 bhp which was interesting! Place to go was obviously Dover White Cliffs The cliffs were a good viewing point that's for sure! And down to some of the actual work.. When we headed back to the unit half way through the day our engines were in bits being reworked.. painful to see but also a pleasure.. Camshafts reworked into engine, after everything was being cleaned up and ready to go back on. New head gasket on down below And that's the metal shim being inputted between the cylinder walls to prevent cracking through temperature! All done and dusted.. So around £600 later (with discounts and free parts put in) the work was all finished. We left the unit at around 8 so all in all a good 12 hours work to get both cars completed with their new reconditioned & protected engines. That's a big milestone in the race to get the car running more power! The guys at BD were amazing to us, constant updates throughout the day, these pictures were taken by Andy as he was working on mine and sent through, lent us an ST to go and have some fun in. They also rang us up at Lunch time for some passenger rides.. They had a Collins Performance CP340 Focus ST in (which is what me & my friend are aiming to get) so they were kind enough to take us out for a spin in that car and my goddddd.... It was just nuts boosting the way it did, still ctaching plenty of traction and it honestly felt like there was no lag for the turbo to spool up again after changing gear it was right on hard boost the whole way. Very impressed with that.. way better than I thought it would be. But to top it all off, Andy also took us out in a 500 bhp Focus RST which ran boost at 26 PSI...Absolutely nuts! What a good asset to use..They were good to us, I'd recommend talking to Andy Cashmore from BD performance Kent if you do want any work doing and live down South. Highly recommend Thannks for reading, I know there was quite a lot of words/story there!

I will be making a tutorial on how to do this is if everything goes successful! And the 2 users who have helped me so far will be given credit for all there help! I am currently using this thread to upload images whilst on the way to completing the mod.

hi. you can programme it with forscan just change the FCDIM options to 5 inch screen and ICP to either branded (sony) or non branded (ford) navigation.

It is possible, you need to do all these things: - Replace the FCDIM (screen) for a version with sat nav function (with the sd holder above the screen) - Install a GPS antenna - Program the BCM (in some cases you don't have to). This can be done with a IDS adapter, ELM327 with Forscan and an extended license or the Russian UCDS adapter - Install an antenne wire from the screen to the radio (otherwise you don't have TMC) - Install two audio wires from the screen to the radio (otherwise you won't hear the spoken direction's) - Replace the Facia with sat nav buttons And that should be all.

Great timing this post.I got given the funnel with the car docs but wasnt explained to me what it was and just thought it was a handy wee thing but i have funnels at home so ditched it. Few weeks ago car ran a bit rough on idle so someone recommended trying a bit of Wynns Injector cleaner.Paid £8 at Halfords and went into the car park.Had not long filled up so thought i shall empty it in.Bottle had a long neck so thought all would be well...........within seconds of pouring there was none in the tank and everyhing on my trainers!Had no idea why until the good folk on here enlightened me. Bought a funnel and it arrived today.Off to try another bottle of Wynns tomorrow,and have bags wrapped around my trainers ready to go ;-)