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Well this happened today 😌👌 Also Jonro sercuirty wise I do have some bits installed to stop anyone taking it, I'd happy pm you the details but I won't be posting it on my thread, as I'm sure if someone wanted to they could get past anything if really needed. Next update and big play will be Tuesday but have a couple of bits to whip on tomorrow if I get time

Another delivery from China arrived this morning. And fitted Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk www.tomholroydphotography.co.uk

Hi all , I'm new here , don't know much about cars so thought I'd join and see what I can learn and maybe not get ripped off when I need some work doing to my car in the next few weeks

Welcome to the forum

Can we just mind where this is going lads, pretty sure we don't need to get nasty about it.

BTW nice colour car you have there

liking them fella and have you got a link for the seller you bought from please?

Hi mate how's it going

2003 and 2004 is the same car I believe. The facelift came in at end of 2005 I believe. "On April 1, 2002, the all new fifth generation car was unveiled". "In November 2005, a revised version of the fifth generation Fiesta was launched for the 2006 model year, also known as the Mk 6 facelift (Mk6.5). " From wikipedia. The fifth generation fiesta is what is know as the Mk6 in the UK

Hello again, Here is an update to my 'Immobiliser Active' issue. I have checked the diagnostic socket pins 6 & 14 and get a continuity beep and for resistance get a reading of 61.5 ohms, so the high speed Can Bus circuit test all seems ok there. I have obtained a Haynes workshop manual for the MK4 Ford Mondeo (2007-2012) and although there are some wiring diagrams, there isn't one for the ABS system. However looking at the diagrams that are present, they are showing the H/S Can Bus twisted pair to be White/White & Blue, (every dia. showed same colours). I have peeled back the insulation on the wiring to ABS plug and also managed to unclip back of plug to establish which pins the wires go into. I put a couple of dressmaker pins in the relevant connectors and again checked the resistance measurement, which gave a reading of 61.7ohms. Again, from what you have previously advised, I understand this reading suggests the H/S Can Bus wiring is all in order from the ECU/PCM via the ABS to the instrument cluster. I have been checking the wiring loom for damaged wires by removing the insulating tape and plastic sheath and where the loom passes by the bottom corner of the engine block I found a small damaged section where the loom must have been rubbing against the block as the engine vibrated during operation. Three of the wires had insulation partly rubbed through exposing the wires and it looked like corrosion had 'fused' the three wires together. This was looking quite hopeful as the culprit to my issue. I have separated the wires and cleaned off the corrosion as much as possible. The engine diagnostics was then re-run, (using the Delphi system) but the DTC's are exactly as before and the same three will not reset and the other two show as reset but return immediately ignition is turned back on. I have pushed a pin into the three wires either side of the area of damage and can confirm all of them have continuity and I could get a resistance reading to show on the DMM but it kept fluctuating for all three wires. I really thought I had found the problem when I located the corroded wires but after separating them the issue persists. Any further advice as always will be gratefully received.

Where did you find them Phil 😍😱 did they do ST's as well

You can fit a K&N panel filter to replace your existing one a lot do just this . It will flow better than the OEM one and can be washed when mucky so it saves you buying a new one at service. or you could ,take out your old air box housing and fit a cone one as the others have said this usually comes with all the bits you need to fit but yo will need a heat shield and a possible cold air feed to keep thing nice this sometimes comes with the filter but is often a separate item. It depends what you want the panel on its own will be quiet like your OEM and probably won't sound any different the cone will sound a bit different if open and not enclosed (depends on kit) and yes I have done both over the years. To get a good grumble perhaps a good quality cat back exhaust will do that for you maybe that's what you are looking for

You need new or nearly new tyres, or its not worth bothering. To do it properly the tyres need to be set to an exact cold pressure. Ride height needs to be checked against the book , because if springs have sagged with age/mileage it'll be off (a skilled engineer can compensate the figures for it) because the suspension moves in an arc, which alters the angle at which the wheel is sitting - every single person I have watched, bar one, never bothers with those two steps, so fails straight away. You man at Fred in A Shed Tyres, or Bombsite Exhuasts, is almost guaranteed absolutely to not do this. If you're really anal, or if you have a race or track day car, you'll have it done with the drivers weight simulate in the seat so the suspension is at the height at which the car is driven when the FWA is set. You will never, ever get a tip top FWA anywhere outside of a good quality accident repair specialist, or a Motorsport/race car engineers. I know I'm very anal because I studied Automotive Science and Engineering at Uni like my Dad before me, but most Fred in a Sheds are absolute butchers.

What exact dimensions do you need? I took the whole lock barrel, cable and white plastic piece off a couple of weeks as part of getting the bonnet to open and haven't put it back so can go out and measure it up if you want.

I do like having a weekend off work!!! Just need to figure out what I'm going to do with it...

I'm so sorry to hear this Clive. Losing a pet really is like losing a family member, if not worse.

There's loads on the Peugeot forum about this engine. If you drive it properly, like once a week for an hour at full temperature at motorway speeds you shouldn't get any bother as long as the oil is clean, my mum's old 1.8 duratec engine did most of its 260000 miles on mineral truck oil 15w 40 and funny how it didn't suffer from piston ring or big end failure like hundreds of them did just out of warranty.

I must agree. I once took my corsa for new tyres to a local place. The guy in the garage said that I needed my tracking done and it would cost fifteen pounds. I stood and watched him wind the track rod two revolutions anticlockwise then two revolutions clockwise! Following a huge argument the guy removed my new tyres, put the old ones back on and told me where to go. They didn't even put any alignment gear on the car to check it! You get what you pay for.

beet me to it :) Course if your looking for a different noise then go for it, otherwise id not bother.

The small filter in the corner of the box is for the crank case breather. The MAF is attached to the large pipe from the filter housing. You can fit an aftetmarket cone filter kit but will need a seperate breather filter and heatshield to avoid heatsoak from the engine. The kits should come with a modified intake hose with a location for fitting the MAF sensor. Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

peugeot specs on the same engine is also 5w30, but also options depending on ambient temp of 0w30, and 5w40,10w40(without dpf) but ford only specify 5w30.

Is the cross piece connected as it should be? That'll take another 5-10mm off i bet. China stuff tends to be fairly good I find, unless you buy the cheapest of the cheap. A lot of stuff may be deemed as a "copy" but is actually made in the same factory as the original stuff, just out of normal hours to make a living on the side.

Condolences mate, like losing a close family member.

Look else where

Echo the above RIP Jake

Make a build thread and save making new threads every little detail.

Sad news mate

It is with deep sadness that I report that my loving and loyal Border Collie Jake has made the final trip and has gone to the farm in the sky and will be sadly missed by myself, my wife, Willow and Jedi. RIP Jake 23/09/2003 - 25/05/2017.

I've had my 1.8 TDCI blanked for about 3 years and she's still going strong at 132K miles (Orginal clutch, DMF, fuel pump, injectors and turbo)

it might need an italian tune? (thrashing it for a bit to clear out any gunk) might be worthwhile getting it tuned up - this will make a massive difference. i purchased a tuning box and this had 30 modes from mild to max and i put it on 10 and the pick up was so much better. if i put it on a 20 setting then the fuel pump light would come on so played it safe with the 10 setting - there was no way i was going to go mad max on the 30 setting!

As silly as this might sound, try and tighten it up (To try and prevent both the bar/slider shaking). I.E Get the base of the seatbelt which is attached directly to car (which doesn't pull out). Keep it tight and tie it around somewhere for the time being (I.E Around passenger headrest). Make sure its pulling the sliding bar etc as tight as possible - see if it still rattles. It'll look ridiculous but drive it around the block - no rattling means your in the right area and can look at it in more detail. Or wedge a load of towels down there/pack in the black bar to stop it from rattling. (On your Fiesta, I can't remember, but is there a black sliding bar or is it connected directly to the floor - i know on my 3 door I have a thin black bar as the seatbelts are further back in a 3 door). It could be the plastic covering on the seat, or the seat mechanism (the twist knob that makes seat angle change). Just ideas haha, it drove me mad and was loud in my old car

i cut the bars on my old mk6 then sanded them down :) put in a double din JVC unit