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05/29/2017 - 05/29/2017
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Popular Content
Showing content with the highest reputation on 05/29/2017 in all areas
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Booked :D Now hopefully can get a few friends to come along2 points
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It was a C4 did absolutely loads to it, Cams, huge WRC spoiler, coilovers, there's a pic on "things I like" thread2 points
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It sounds to me more like the heater control valve. Something of an Achilles heel on those Fiestas. Pattern parts widely available on eBay for ~£10 however they can be a false economy given the dubious quality of many (most?) and so the genuine article at ~£40 might represent a better buy in the long run.2 points
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It would cost me about 2 and a half, 3 grand to jump to an st I would like or 400 quid for the remap2 points
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All black editions come with an ecoboost badge I think. That guy must've just bought a black edition badge that somebody has made and stuck it on in it's place2 points
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It will be good to put some faces to the new names that are attending. I reckon this years show will be a cracker. Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk2 points
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So get it done at Mr Tyre. The word "car" = rip off. Alternative meaning = we haven't a clue and neither do we care.2 points
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Here's the eBay number for Focus ST ones 122271660004 He also does fiesta ones but not ST ones unfortunately Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk www.tomholroydphotography.co.uk2 points
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They are from a Jag XKR I believe I've only ever seen them on a mk3.5 but then today I've seen 3 others on Instagram -.- but hey ho it's definitely a look not many have done and after we spent 3 hours getting them in the right place we know why, haha2 points
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2 points
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We have an awesome local scrapyard. Prices are very good and you pick/remove your own parts. Definitely worth looking into mate.1 point
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Absolutely fine without any additional hardware, although if you have additional hardware they can select/deselect it to tweak the map in their dealer software. Stage 2 requires more hardware1 point
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If it was the pack it would only blow on position4 and it would be hot or cold, the fact it's hot only means as per MJNewtons post.1 point
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Yh wanted these for a while, cannot wait to see them on, added extra they are light weight or lighter than standard as well Stoney - yh they are replica ones, which have a slight contour to match most ford bonnets, I've had to run a tiny amount of black sealant around 2 edges on each as it's not as contoured as my bonnet but unless you get right up into the side of them you can't notice it. TBH I didn't even look to find 'real' jaguar ones Got more happening tomorrow performance mods wise1 point
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Indeed, all the windows are open in the living room, but it's still 57% RH, which is somewhat high.1 point
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Coming back to my post more than one week ago the diagnose actually was a split hose between the turbo and the manifold inlet. The mechanic said that he needs to order a genuine part from Ford which comes as a pack of two pipes and costs £137 +VAT. Another mechanic I asked about said that it's difficult to find a non-genuine one from Euro Car parts or other website as they don't break often so they wouldn't sell too much. Does anyone know if I can search for a pipe online and where? On the other hand if I buy the two pipes pack from Ford I will keep the second one in case another pipe splits in future. Thanks.1 point
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No you never do, my previous car I'd fine quite a bit to and I thought I'd get much more than what I actually did 😢1 point
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Ahhhh it's a good hobby tho people tell Me you will never get that money back probley they are right but worth it in my eyes1 point
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Double overhead cam. The 95 PS is SOHC, single overhead cam, while also gaining a DPF.1 point
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I'd go for 15's every time if you like your teeth/heart bypass pipes to stay on, and dislike tramping across the road on high speed corners.1 point
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1 point
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Worth going, I've been 3 times, good chance to see (most of) the circuit if you've never been too.1 point
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Be nice if I can to meet some new friends with similar interests1 point
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Yes, my old WD Matchless ran a Burman box, but that's not really relevant. As stef123 requests I'm not going to play with someone who seems determined to argue. It's not fair on the other forum users that you're having a public pop at me and polluting a thread that they have to read. You got a problem with me then pm me direct and I'll be happy to delete it.1 point
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Depends how bright you want them. I find that I prefer the mood lighting rather than the glaring brightness. The 5 led ones are plenty good enough for the not so young like us. Also these LEDs just plug in, don't need any fixing or messing around. Don't forget that LEDs are polarity sensative,1 point
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I made the same promise to myself until I thought oh maybe I will just tidy her up a bit next thing I know I'm buying zetec s grills looking at St spoilers zetec s diffusers splitters alloys lowing springs eyebrows android radios expensive floor mats gear knobs daytime running lights hahhaha1 point
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I drive mine around with eml light on had a similar problem was getting choked up and make in the car jerk ever since I unplugged it car has been running completely smoothly so hopefully it works for you1 point
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The aircon is pretty crap in Fiestas. That's sort of what you get with such a fuel efficient car. There may be further sync upgrades, but they don't bring much new, and isn't worth upgrading from what you have. Sync 1 doesn't offer much other than call, text readout and music playing.1 point
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Having been driving for over 60 years and having rebuilt engines, gearboxes, back axles on both cars and motorbikes I doubt that. Ever heard of a Burman gearbox? You must have 'cause you know everything don't you.1 point
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Hi mate unplug the sensor and the valve will stay shut and the car will run smooth just means you will have eml light on but car should work fine or you could just blank it egrs are useless1 point
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from the turbo you will see a section of plastic running parallel to the injectors, its a little further along that plastic pipe that you see the rubber bend which joins the metal intercooler pipe, at that join before the rubber bend you will see it also connects to a plastic housing that has the silicone pipe from the intercooler joining in from the underside. that is the bypass valve, basically when its cold it dumps the air straight in to the engine without going passed the IC, when it warm it routes the air via the IC instead to cool it down, I'm guessing it only bypasses it when starting the car, once the engine heats up it will be getting pretty toasty from the pressure and the turbo1 point
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I did exactly like you said and it actually worked. Saved at least 50$ and time to take car to the dealer. Was a really an easy fix for someone not familiar with car parts. Thank you1 point
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the 10W wont make much of a difference unless you live someplace very cold, it certainly wont be a problem this side of winter but the 40, on this specific engine might be problem, the 40 relates to a viscosity at 100c which as it happens is about the operating temperature of this engine. the problem is this car has some nasty side effects around the oil feed pipes for the turbo, a thicker oil will mean its going to be that little bit harder pumping oil around it, it also has a tendency to build up carbon deposits which will make the thicker oil even thicker. Personally, id be changing that as soon as possible but I wouldn't be too worried about it if you look after the car, change the oil before 12k etc. the next thing id do if I were you is get a couple of jack stands and a few tools and learn to do it yourself.1 point
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well passed my test yesterday so just got onto fordpartsuk and ordered some, thanks for advice everyone1 point
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And meanwhile, the map has been activated and it feels good! No problems, whatsoever, so far. Drive it already for 2200 miles1 point
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Update time :) Start with a snowfoam pic best bit about a wash :) On to the upgrades! So before I dropped a hint that I had obtained a newish Airtec Stage 2 Intercooler. The original writing was red, and obviously this didn't fit in with the theming of my car. I took it upon myself to re spray the cooler in satin black and then add lime green Airtec symbol to match everything up.. I used a stencil and the same paint I used for my callipers. The Focus ST struggles on the standard intercooler and it's pretty much an essential upgrade to increase power significantly. Should help keep my intake temps down, and helps produce better power. As you can imagine it's quite a bit larger than the standard item from factory... Wasn't too bad of a job to get fitted, did take a little time but not as bad as people made out. Didn't even need to remove the front bumper, just dropped undertrays and worked next to the radiator. Fitted! One of my favourite shots from the front to show the cooler; I also felt that I should try and stick with just a more dominant colour so instead of having the white writing badges I got a new set ordered on gloss black background with lime green writing. If anyone wants these made to your specification, I can send you the right way (£28 for full set incl front, back, steering wheel, and 4 wheel centre cap overlays). I also wanted to support the Focus ST OC as I am now a member and use the forums on there quite a lot, learning new things and conversing with others That's it for now, the car is running the best it ever has with the intercooler on! I think it's starting to come together look wise, I do have another modification coming for the visual side of things (more so atleast) however am having to chase the company up sadly. Will update when I can as per usual, thanks guys1 point
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We had alot of heavy rain here last night and this morning so I removed the grommet under the car and the cavity and insulation are bone dry, result! The damp smell has gone too as the insulation was holding water causing an old damp dishcloth smell, not nice in a 12 plate car!1 point
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Right, here we go again! Went out this morning and the boot was dry but when i pulled the grommet out underneath the car it was full of water again!!! This called for some more investigation so off came the back bumper. Turns out the vents fitted behind the bumper were a poor fit so they were not sealed properly. You could see where water had tracked down from the roof past the lights etc and then onto the top edge of the vent. Once the vent was removed it was obvious that was where the water was getting into the cavity as it was full of dirty rain water residue between the clips highlighting that the seal had failed. I cleaned all the surrounding area and dried the cavity and insulation out with a hair drier, this took some time as the insulation was saturated. You can see through the body cut out in the pic above where the underside grommet is removed to let the water out. This was replaced when everything was reassembled. Once that was all clean and dry I siliconed around the open edge of the body and also the back of the vents for good measure before clipping it back into place and smoothing the silicone around the edges. I did this to both side vents and both rear vents to be on the safe side. Basically what was happening was the water was tracking down behind the light cluster and getting into the body of the car via the poor seal on the vent. This caused the cavity to fill with water and then when driving the car and going around corners the water was spilling over into the boot floor area through a hole about 20mm up from the bottom of the cavity. I hope this helps somebody as I couldnt find any information regarding boot leaks on mk3's anywhere and Ford were useless as seals are only guaranteed for 12 months! I will remove the grommet again next weekend to make sure it is finally 100% sorted but all the signs were there to suggest it is. Im just hoping there is no secondary leak point!1 point
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Enter your registration or VIN here and it will tell you the colour- http://www.etis.ford.com/vehicleRegSelector.do1 point
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Thanks for the advice, I've covered over 50 miles since checking the seat plug, I'm pleased to say I have had no more airbag warning lamps since, so very pleased. Cheers Steve1 point
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Hi thanks for replies, mine is a 4 door model, today I split the connectors under both front seats, I drove it for approx 5 miles and so far it has not come back on, previously it was getting worse comming on virtually straight away, so hopefully sorted, I'll post again on Monday when I have covered some more miles. Cheers Steve1 point
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