Leaderboard

Bad drivers in general Stupid people in general Brussel Sprouts Marmite Adults that still use Txt Spk and the word LoL

light cluster wires with arrow.pdf Hello, I have a rear view camera (https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01DTTZQ0C/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) I want to wire into the reversing lights of my Mondeo Mk3. I currently have a front facing camera installed (clipped over the rear view mirror) and I want the rear view camera to automatically pop up when I select reverse gear. The pictures I have added are (starting from the top); 1- The two rear camera connectors, the phono jack goes directly into the front camera/screen unit and the black and red bi-wire is what is to be wired into the reversing lights. 2- The near side, rear, light cluster connector, wire termination points . As you face the car's rear it is on the left (passenger side) and located under a plastic panel. The left of the image is the top and each port is numbered 1-7 (I can't see how to rotate the image on this). 3- The rear camera 4-Manufacturer's installation instructions (generic, Chinese) 5-Link to pdf image, where I have added an arrow using a photo editor to indicate wire(s) I think I need to use. 6-The near side, rear, light cluster connector, wire termination points (Front of ports). As you face the car's rear it is on the left. 7-The near side, rear, light cluster connector, wire termination points (Back of ports). As you face the car's rear it is on the left. 8-The connections I tried ; Red from the camera into 5 port and Black from the camera into 6 port. Ideally, I have just missed a thread/wiki/tutorial where someone has done this and someone can point me in the right direction. Failing that, has anybody already done this and can you tell me how you connected the wires? So looking at other threads discussing the wire locations the red wire from the camera needs to be connected to the green and black wire (reverse left) in port 5 and the black wire needs to be connected to the black wire in port 6 (Earth). I have tried jamming the exposed camera wire ends into the correct ports and then tested the camera. The rear camera showed up as PIP( picture in picture) being the smaller of the two images as a constant feed. When I put the car into reverse gear I expected the image feeds to invert showing me the rear camera feed as the main image and the forward facing image the smaller PIP, but there was no change and the image stayed as it was. Does anybody have any ideas as to how I can configure this set-up so that when I go into reverse the smaller rear camera image turns into a full-screen image on the mirror with the front facing image taking up the smaller PIP? ***In the end, this method did work exactly as shown and described, maybe ram the exposed cable ends in instead of jamming them in. Held them in with sparky tape. Ran rear camera wire through door sills trunking down near side and up through pillar and across to top of mirror. I have mounted camera on inside of rear windscreen at the top in the centre of the brake light. Because of the angle of the glass on the boot I would say if your primary reason for install is as a reversing cam then you need to install camera outside the car, probably around the number plate somewhere as I can't really see any more than if I just look out the back window. Might change position later if I get time, not too fussed at the mo.*** Will leave this up in case anyone else wants the info.

Hi, I have a Ford Fiesta 1.0L ecoboost 100ps Zetec since April 2015. I have done a few mods which include: Sony Stereo upgrade Wind Deflectors LED ambient lighting LED Illuminated Door Sills LED Fog units ST 17" Alloy wheels ST Centre console with armrest ST Molten Orange Recarro Seats Full Dress Up Kit Zetec S front grills Mountune Induction kit I have a few more things that I am going to do such as: Cat Back Exhaust System (July) Bluefin Chip (July) Rear Parking Sensors ( fitting this weekend). Any suggestions please let me know. :)

I decided the other day to put some Vinyl on the interior of my car for protection, he person who had it last must of let a wild animal loose on the inside because it was covered in scratches and gashes. Ordered some of Ebay and gave it a go after stripping the centre console out. First couple of attempts were utter crap....then I realised that it has to be heated to get around the funky corners. Luckily the guy on Ebay sent me the wrong one and lots of it....about 3 times the amount, 5 stars for him. I originally ordered some silver to go with the original interior but i think this looks kick *****. I also did it on the door handles which looks smart too. Ignore the state of the inside of my car, she's in need of some TLC in the next few days. If you've done the same I'd like a comparison and some other Ideas you might have for interior alterations. anything you think might look good.

Thanks Peter. Yes, I've been thinking about those three wires I found, I did check for continuity by placing a pin an inch or so either side of the damage and got a continuity buzzer for each wire. I guess even though each wire isn't completely broken maybe it's enough to restrict the required current. I was reluctant to start cutting wires because the car parking for the houses is remote to my house and I can't get power to the cars location, so soldering is an issue. I think I will 'splice' a piece of wire to bypass the damage, without actually cutting through the existing cable, using the dreaded blue Scotch-lock connectors, at least they should be good enough to test. Yes, a decent wiring diagram would be a godsend, but I've so far exhausted the ways I've thought of searching for one. At least it looks like it is narrowed down to the ABS module, the GEM/BCM module or maybe a power supply/earth fault to one or the other as from what I've managed to test, the two busses look to be intact. I have previously tried to start car with the ABS module unplugged but didn't help. If I was to bridge the HS-CAN bus wires in the ABS plug would that make a difference or is it a no, no to do that sort of thing. Thanks again for all of your input and also to the other contributors, it has been much appreciated. If nothing else, I've learnt quite a lot about things I hadn't much of a clue about beforehand.

Hi members I have a 1990 mk4 cabriolet I've had a new fuel pump 2yrs ago so don't think it was that. I was travelling down a road when the car suddenly slowed down then stopped,when I tried to start it just turned no spark.i noticed that there wasn't a noise to say the pump was working I've had the relay tested and there is no life in the relay so I think it is this. I'm not a mechanic as you can see but i want to no the best place to get one and is dealerships the only way to get one

Hey guys back with a ford focus titanium 2010

Thank you Peter. Does it mean that there is a fault with the unit or a connection issue including a bad earth to unit or any of those? I have had the unit completely disconnected looking for the MS-CAN twisted pair and reconnected the plugs, so they are definitely properly seated and look clean. I've also checked all the fuses as the passenger fuse box is part of the same unit as the GEM/BCM. (I put it this way just to clarify to myself I'm not talking about the Brake system Control Module, (which I don't know it's location unless it's part of the ABS unit). So, to clarify in my mind, even though both the CAN busses seem to check out as intact, the information stream is failing at the GEM/BCM and that is why the ABS module doesn't seem to exist, even though it maybe is being communicated with but the information isn't making it's way back to the IPC on the MS-CAN due to a failure at the GEM/BCM to transfer the info from the HS-CAN to the MS-CAN? Shouldn't the ABS module at least show up on the HS-CAN test though, with a DTC code or two?

Hi, As a bit of an update; With the plug removed the corresponding MS-CAN bus pins on the GEM/BCM unit gave a reading of 124 ohms, so that seems to check out ok. I've had another session with the Forscan and took some screenshots as follows; DTC scan result in HS-CAN mode: DTC scan result after switching to MS-CAN mode: List of Modules: Self test screen: No ABS listed. PCM test just advised P0113 Temperature sensor due air cleaner removed: IPC test came back clear: The BCMii test would not complete and I keep getting the following message: The OBD II mode 6 test detected a malfunction but didn't give further info:

I do like a cool beer on a warm-ish evening after a hard day at work!

These window seals are available as a spare part from Ford. Installation is quite easy. After removing the original one you have to clean and degrease the surface of the window with a suitible solvent. The new rubber has a self adhesive backing which makes the installation pretty straightforward. Another option is to clean and degrease the surface of the window and seal with a suitible solvent and glueing it back in place with a suitible contact adhesive.

Lol Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk www.tomholroydphotography.co.uk

If the garage knows what it could be before they sort your car out they may give you a quote for the job(s) do you can decide then.Its hard to decide until you know what the job entails

Hi everyone new to the forum had quite a few fords currently got an st170

Finish at 02.15 tonight, can't go to sleep straight away once I'm home and meeting friends for lunch at 13.00 which is an hours drive away. Think my wife can do that part. Catch up on the settee later in the afternoon full of roast & beer! lol

I do like getting in to bed at 9am on a wet Saturday morning after completing five nights in work😪

Hello, are you able to PM me also please as I've just purchased a Kuga 2016 with sync 2 but without sat Nav? Many thanks @Bannko

Me neither, I prefer to get out of bed and go to work then enjoy time off rather than waiting around to go in to work later in the day.

I don't like working lates on a Saturday :(

Know it well- I commute from RAF Benson to RAF Odiham every day.

Blimey Lenny. Makes one wonder if it's worth helping sometimes.

I got a very good deal in the end ... the sales guy totally understood my reason for waiting for sync 3 and so honoured the deal he'd aready given me. The price had since increased by £750 for the Sport (suspect the sync 3 cost is part of that), which he didn't charge me and to cap it all, my original spec was a Manual ... in his error, he allocated me an Auto on the production schedule which, when I pointed his mistake out, he said they would cover the £2,500 difference! Gave me a grand more than anyone else trade-in on my Kuga and, oh yes, and just caught the last week production run of Nautilus Blue ... Couldn't have been more chuffed

hi Bannko how can i activate my sat nav on my sync 2 ?

Remove the screws, lift up the top at the back an inch or so and push it towards the front. Could take a fair bit of persuasion

yeah, your talking some serious mods to get a NA petrol remapped with any meaningful results. as it is, you may be able to get about 10 extra ponies, given that you have probably lost some of those ponies over the years you might make 130, or there abouts. If you want to get some serious performance then look in to new cams, throttle bodies and perhaps there is a turbo mod out there for it. however, the first two alone plus a remap to get the benefit of them, will probably be in the region of £1000. Cams alone are around £500. in short, unless its a classic, your always better off buying the car you want rather than mod the crap out of it. :) Edit, I think ive seen mods taking this engine up to 210HP gonna cost you ££££

@Jethro_Tull hit the nail on the head. Ford have already done the easy stuff (like air filters, remap, exhaust etc.) There's no point changing any of that unless you're going rebuilt motor/better pistons, camshaft etc. Then you're getting into the dangerous area of potentially blowing up the engine or having never ending cylinder head gasket issues. I've always said for every 100cc there should be a max of 10hp. So a 1.6 should be 160hp. Obviously high performace cars are different, but for a daily that's under 2.0L that's what I aim for.

Thanks Mate... yea i got free home start breakdown service from Nationwide Bank..I wll call them today to check the fault code... thanks again

If your petrol then you won't have a DPF filter and i'm not sure if it's that old and was diesel it would have one anyway....If you have home start on your breakdown package yes you can call breakdown service and i'm pretty sure they'll be able to get a fault code for you which would help in finding out the cause of the issue. If you haven't got home start you could always drive the car somewhere safe at least a quarter of a mile from home and call them then as that's the minimum distance usually to call them out without home start. I have done this before

That. Is. Awesome. Sent from my HTC 10 using Tapatalk

the latest one, 0.8.6

take a peek at this one eBay item number:112087897195

Totally agree. One of the greatest riffs ever. Also love Thunderstruck by AC/DC, used to play it prior to doing a freefall parachute jump for the extra adrenaline rush.

All Butterflies? Smell of freshly cut grass Playing football in August Smell of freshly baked bread Finding £20 in a winter coat

Replacing the cabin/pollen filter in both of our Fiestas improved the air-conditioning no end. My car in particular went from virtually none existent to like being in a fridge. They cost about a tenner and easy to change.

Speaking of Dire Straights. Anytime 'Money For Nothing' comes on, that always gets turned up to near full volume. The intro to that is unreal!! Just like when that film 'Kingsman' started, you know it's going to be a good movie when is starts with 'Money For Nothing's. Sent from my HTC 10 using Tapatalk

If it's a normally aspirated petrol, the answer is not very easi. Takes a lot of money to get meaningful increases out of one. Put it this way, to even match your ex husband in his ST, you will need to be getting 170bhp because the Focus is much heavier. Should have gone for a car with a turbo on if you want to easily tune.

It sounds to me like a DPF. Issue probably if a desil. If not a desil am unsure but very common issues with these cars. Not cheap either. @60/1000 depending. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

I do like stopping at a pedestrian crossing to let a couple of teenage/young 20s females cross and getting a wave, the young boy in the car coming the other way who didn't stop for them got the finger!!!

The advert across the bottom of this thread

Thought Id post up a few pics after a clean this afternoon 😊

the 1.8 petrol then? don't think there was a 1.8 tdci with 124HP. if its a petrol you wnt want to be touching the EGR. Emissions might be a problem :) Generally speaking, the car is a solid car, just watch for rust on the front arch, it looks like you have mud flaps which will greatly help this. The car is super noisy (road noise, wind noise) so don't be thinking its perfect. Don't know how old it is but it might be worth having the control arm bushes checked out, depending on age and miles there is the clutch and timing belt. check for uneven tyre wear (rears should be a little lower on the inside). Other than that, The absolute first thing I changed was the bonnet lock, I had the wee plastic bit replaced with a better design which will save you no end of trouble should the original one pop out of place. Oh check in the boot wheel well for obvious signs of water ingress (some focus mk2s had issues with the seals around the boot hinge.

NICE Welcome to the forum

depends an awful lot on what engine it is. Nice looking car though :) I wish I had gone for the ZS Body Kit.

Welcome to FOC. This forum is just for introductions, please post in the Escort Forum, so you can get the best help.