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I agree about the haggling, if they can sell at 20% lower than the first price then why not advertise at the lower price. I have to say though, I do enjoy haggling. I’ll haggle on anything if I think I can get a better price, you’d be surprised where you can haggle. For example I bought 4 suitcases from Debenhams last month and managed to get 15% off the total bill just for asking lol, the wife normally walks away when I go to the till 😂 My theory on inflated prices isn’t that for every 1 person that haggles there are at least 20 who will pay full price, so it makes financial sense for a company to do it. Home insurance, as with most policies/contracts is easy to beat if you play the system a little. Some offers are for ‘new’ customers only, so put the policy in your name and then the wife’s name the following year which means she is technically a ‘new’ customer 😉. Also, one of my previous cars had tinted windows that were done after I bought the car so were classed as a modification, this increased the policy by £50. I took the policy out without declaring them and the next day rang up and said I was getting them done, I was charged a £13 admin fee to have them covered and that was it.

Hey! I happen to like the way my 2014 looks thank you very much! Lol! Actually I prefer the front of the pfl but the back of the fl version...

Update ! Project mountune has started. Mountune gear gaitor with some modiification. Handbrake gaitor with yellow strip & stitching. Armrest with yellow stitch. Just leaves door card trims. Which is a bigger job Yunii

It's possible one of the cells has shorted internally. That would cause the alternator to sense a low voltage and pump lots of current in to try to charge it, resulting in overcharging and excessive gassing.

Does the bonnet key work in the door lock? If so then it'll be the ignition lock barrel that's been changed. If you want keys that will work in all lock barrels you need to take Stoney's advice and get it sorted by an auto locksmith.

That's true, still worth bearing in mind. Cheaper is not always better, though

I'm quite happy to hear others have the same issue, hopefully someone finds a fix for this which I can present to the dealer. I also found that it is the storage compartment on the door, for me it is only at the passengers door though. It is really annoying indeed, you pay a lot of extra money for a B&O system and then the car starts rattling... Even at low volumes, and my bass slider is nicely in the middle so it's not that I'm abusing the speakers. :-) A quick fix for the time being: place a t-shirt, scarf or anything soft in the storage compartment in the door. Make sure it fits secure and pretty tight, it will give enough pressure and damping to prevent the rattling from happening. It is a car with a lot of rattles and squeaks though... which is kind of sad as the rest of the car is so much better than the previous Fiesta. When I drive in the sun after the car was in the shade the panoramic roof starts to rattle (the springs for the wind shield). It's not so annoying as the rattle from the door however. Let's hope the dealer can fix your issues, I will be going back to them soon as well to hopefully get this fixed.

Good morning guys n gals. Names Damien. Got my little run around recently. Ford Fiesta Flame 1.4. It'll do what I need I hope.

Thanks - Just took it to a gearbox specialist for diagnosis who said the main input shaft bearing bearing is going. I'll look for another gearbox as a repair is too expensive! Thanks you for your help.

I like the idea but in reality it doesn’t look good, it seems to have a really poor finish and looks like the edges are bumpy. Almost looks likes it’s been made out of modelling clay. If the edges where smoother and the face was smooth rather than having the rings on it then it would look loads better, just my opinion though. I think the text and lettering looks great though, I don’t think I would change that. very jealous you have a 3D printer by the way

Skyinsurance

The discounts you can get close the gap somewhat. The finance is often very competitive which also offsets some of the difference unless you have the cash for a used one. There are pros and cons each way. I like being able to get the exact specifications I'm after, and with cars like the ST, not worrying about how it's been driven by the previous owner(s) I've bought two 6 month old cars and two factory orders so far with my third on order. For me, the difference wasn't that great. A lot of people end up comparing their saving to the RRP.

Yes prone to corrosion on the mount.

check the connections for oxidisation, sometimes a wee rub and some electrical contact cleaner can do wonders.

looks bad for a car of that age. the right hand retaining strap nut in the pic looks quite corroded like it might break the stud away when trying to undo it. when you get the car back make sure it's not been left broken. the corrosion looks like it has been caused by battery acid or battery acid fumes. That make me wonder if the battery has actually been damaged (prematurely brought to the end of it's life) by overcharging. Note sure what else would cause it to get like that.

Hello Mr J4rbo, I hope it's still okay to necro-reply in this thread. I had basically the same issue in my Mondeo Titanium Mk4 2008 (2.0 tdci if that matters), so I decided to try your advice and.... that worked! So as a contribution to the thread that saved me a headache, list of tools I used: for step 1 from the original recipe: torx T20 (long-ish one, 8 cm was minimum) and 7mm socket for step 2: torx T10, then obviously small philips screwdriver for step 4. I had to spend some time in Bunnings trying to find the set with correct sizes, so hopefully that'll save someone a minute or two. Thanks again, @J4rbo!

Update ! Completed fitting the focus St headlining . Also added submarine light in the rear by taking feed from front. Took me around 3 hrs but fairly easy but faffy . A little know how is essential. Lot of multiplugs to plug back in. I'm absolutely delighted .pics dont do justice. Looks awesome. Yunii

+1 for clutch slip. It is a bit hard to see from the VId, but it looks like the rpm rises appreciably before the speed really changes much. At 3500rpm, the torque from the engine may be starting to drop off a bit, especially if airways are a bit clogged due to age & mileage, so it holds at that level. I am a bit surprised it does not do it in 5th / 6th, usually clutch slip is worse in higher gears, try it starting from the same initial rpm, maybe on a bit of a hill to give it more work to do. But don't hold it too long, if it is slipping it will heat up very quickly. Clutches usually smell pretty bad when they get too hot, which is another clue to look for.

Looks like clutch slip probably too much power for your clutch

What was the reason for changing all those parts? Or was it just guess work? Were the parts fitted by a garage? my only experience with these engines (having owned mine for 7+ years) is that white smoke on cold start was down to worn injectors. This would clear after 2-minutes of idling and the car would perform flawlessly for the rest of the day. I know of guys who have fitted injectors to engines which need coding but they never have and they have never had any issues but I’m going to ask anyway, have your new injectors been coded to the ecu?

I would be thinking there is a glowplug problem. I don't know how easy it is to get to them. I would be checking the connectors on them to see if all connected. Also checking there is voltage to each of them when turning ignition on when engine cold, and also maybe taking the connector of each one and checking the resistance/ continuity of each glow plug. It sounds strange for there to be no fault codes stored if it goes into limp mode. You can easily get a code reader for under £20 (A ford modified one with an extra switch added) and free software to read codes yourself. Of the type where you use phone or laptop to view the results. I use a usb one to my laptop. The software is better if you use a laptop than a phone . Example https://tunnelrat-electronics.fwscart.com/ this company has been recommended loads of times on fordownersclub forums, mine came from here. I am not saying they are the cheapest but I preferred to get one on a recomendation than chance a cheaper one

i once had a granada with central locking, not key fob, but turn key in drivers door lock to lock / unlock all doors. It had same kind of problem you describe (except using key, not key fob) in that one of the rear doors was troublesome. I took the interior door panel off that rear door and oiled all the bits around the locking /latch mechanism and it was fine after that. The solenoid was not moving the connected parts far enough as they had got stiff. It was older than yours, maybe 10 years old at the time. If I had your car with the problem you have I would be removing the door trim so you can see what happens inside the door as the solenoid clunks and see if it needs oil , adjusting, bending or whatever

Funny how they can offer a part refund straight away! Tell them to ram it! Refund the full lot. Open a paypal dispute too just to be annoying for them.

How did you get on@focused87 did you like the car when you saw it? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Thanks, this one is almost 3 years old but still feels solid and tight and I’m hoping it stays that way for many years to come. Good luck with the test drive and I hope this turns out to be the one for you