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Blank key blade arrived and I got it cut - all that’s left is to verify that both keys will work, and then it’s off to program the IC with FORScan. Fingers crossed it works!

Last week I was tempted to trade in my 16 year old mk.1 Focus 1.6 Ghia for a 2012 Focus 1 litre ecoboost. I've changed jobs recently and I drive a lot further now. Unsure how long I could reasonably expect my old Focus to carry on putting up with the 500 miles a week, although to be fair it was very reliable, but anyway I took the plunge. I had heard good things about these tiny 3 cylinder ecoboost engines. I have to admit, it also occurred to me that if I could get the 68mpg claimed then I could make about a third of the monthly bank loan payment in petrol savings alone. Firstly, just let me say I love the new car. Its great. Wouldn't change it for the world. At long last I have a DAB radio and my iPhone is now integrated - no more headsets or earpieces for me. But, having just finished the first tankful, I can tell you I only averaged 50.3 mpg. Still, that's a huge improvement on a 16 year old 1.6 that managed 43 mpg. A good 90% of the driving I do is at 60-70 mph on the M5 and A303. Motorwats are fine but you have to reach them first, from your house! Annoyingly, every journey has stops and starts and hills are inevitable. Unless you live in a parallel universe designed by Escher in which every journey is only downhill, you are doomed to failure. What on earth do you have to do to get anywhere close to the extra-urban figure quoted?

Hi guys, my names Simon I’ve got 60 plate Zetec S fiesta. Had it for 18 months now and not done much to it really apart from wind deflectors but I’m starting to make changes to it now, I’ve got it booked in to get the alloys refurbed next week and the colour changed to gloss black, I’ve ordered the Asian style grill and chrome fog lights surrounds, so I’m looking for hints and tips to help make my car look better! Thanks

A amendment to my previous post, I just did the same journey as above today ...almost, the above journey mpg was what showed on the computer thingy was above 65 mpg. This time I topped the tank up to the first click and zeroed the trip meter, got to my destination 197 miles away later and topped the tank up to first click again, fuel consumption worked out at 58 mpg. That was a mix of motorway, dual carriageway and A roads speeds ranging mostly from 60 - 70 mph and cruise control wherever possible. So average mpg on dashboard computer is not accurate but not too far off. Hope that helps.

Thanks for all replies up to now everyone. I am waiting for a scrappy in Doncaster to get back to me. He has a 5 door Fiesta Ghia 2007 advertised on ebay, same year as mine and advertises it as power fold mirrors Fiesta for breaking. Iv told him i want the osf loom and he has given a price of £30. Im just waiting for a reply on how he wants paying so i can order it. For the past couple of days my windows totally stopped working even after wiggling the connector at the hinge and my air con needs a recharge so cant use it. I'v been roasting! The aircon recharge will be done at ATS next week for £34.99 with Groupon voucher. Anyway, today after work i checked the electric window fuse and its ok. Then i opened the connector at the hinge to check if i had bent the the connector pins whilst trying to get power to the the windows by wiggling and pushing on the connector itself, as this usually worked temporarily before, but not anymore. Could not see anything broken or bent so i sprayed both connection ends with carburetor cleaner. After this dried off, i used wd40 and reconnected. Lo and behold everything working as before but i know its temporary. Still have to replace the whole loom with a decent one of the same.

And she’s alive! The replacement fob was a bit iffy at first and didn’t seem to program when programming additional ignition keys with FORScan. However, after erasing all keys and initializing the car with FORScan, she starts back up just fine - just like all those months ago before she first broke! I checked for any DTCs after everything fired up, and it’s completely clear. Now my only question is this - the mileage is about 15k higher than it should be, and the car is currently missing its bonnet lock as it’s broken and I’n waiting for a new one. Would either of these cause a fail or advisory in the MOT?

Hi Mike, i too have the Focus 1.0 ECOBOOST 2017 MODEL. Love it to bits after driving diesel for a good ten years. most of my driving is short town runs i dont use the stop/start but get 38-42 mpg around town and on a long run i managed to see 55mpg on the cars gauge so can say im happy with this figure as its on a par with the 1.6 tdci cmax i had before. i have made just one mod a k & n type filter in the standard airbox which has smoothed out the jerking at low revs in traffic. i do try to use the car sensibly but the traffic light rush hour cant help with fuel consumption ?? i too had looked into a new diesel Focus but feel the petrol is a bit cleaner for city driving.the petrol 1.0 is amazing as you say drives like a 2 litre without guzzling fuel. it does seem to be happy doing the low revs high gear driving mode just try ignore the gear change indicator and enjoy the drive !

Quiet country roads with speed limits of 30,40,50 on a 14 mile drive to work and it can be done. I do manage 68mpg (showing 70mpg on trip computer) Your milage is better suited to a diesel to be fair.

Mine is a zetec S not an ST by the way. Got about 20mpg

They shouldn't be that rare, the Ghia's were 5 door with one touch windows and powerfold mirrors, just unusual to have that on a Zetec. Part number for 5dr with deadlocks, one touch and powerfold looks to be F1501781. £96 delivered from Hendys https://www.hendyeshop.co.uk/wire-assy---jumper-f1501781-35753-p.asp Also worth checking the price at fordpartsuk or Rates Ford on ebay. The don't list them so need to message them. If you want to go used, look for Mk6 Ghias being broken for parts on ebay, Gumtree and marketplace and ask if the seller would check the loom part number and sell it separately from the door.

Mountune claim that torque is increased from 200 to 214Nm. As the Ford brochure states 170Nm for the 125 and 180Nm for the 140, I guess Mountune must be referring to the overboost figure. Given the difficulty we had on the "Early Impressions" thread in finding road test figures for the old and new 140, I doubt that we'll ever find a proper performance comparison which would certainly be interesting. My own gut feeling is that the lower gearing on the 140 might have more effect than the extra 15ps, so the claimed 14Nm torque increase may go some way to offset this.

looks like you have done a great job on the cover fella and will transform the engine bay a treat

Tbh I never managed to time a good 0-60 with mine. Standard mine was 8.7 or something like that. I would imagine low 6 with a good launch.

Looks like a temp sensor if I'm looking at the right info here..https://ford.7zap.com/en/car/39/no/26/1562/15611/68177/ Click on the labels and it will take you to the Finis number. Assuming you can get to it with a flame, try heating it up with a blow torch first before trying to undo it.

The pressure sensor is usually attached to the side of the battery box. You don't have one in that pic. Sooty tail pipe is normal for a non-DPF diesel. With a DPF the tail pipe stays (reasonably) clean. Going on the above info I'd say you don't have a DPF on your car.

Car is running fine! power is back and running smooth. Turbo hose not connected, intake hoses loose, engine temp sensor fault (cleared and not returned) Soot load pressure 2.95, force regen ok, soot load pressure now 0.29. So there you go! Seems that the previous garage where messing around with the car and made matters way worse than they were before.

Yes they are a straight swap. I fitted mk2.5 ST seats to my mk2

Many moons ago we had a Rover 25. The wiring loom broke that went through to the boot door which controlled the lock and wiper etc. Several wires had either broken or were In a sad state. I had to pull as much through as I could, chop the bad part out and solder a patch wire in, sealing the join with heatshrink tubing. That was the only way to fix the problem then. The hardest part was getting the rubber gaitor back in the right place, took a lot of persuading. Lasted the life of the car, it was the leaky head gasket that forced us to move it on. Chop and patch maybe your best option?

It takes literally seconds to remove a door. It takes ages to remove the loom from the door. You'd have to pay the scrappy an extra half hour or so labour for the loom alone. Do they not make repair kits for these? It was a common issue on the 306s and they'd sell a new plug with a few inches of wire. Lots of soldering but wasn't an expensive part.

Only experience I've had with the door is changing the window regulator. Do you hear it click a few times when you lock it? I know the doors unlock if ones open and you try locking the car. Check that all the wires are out the way that they aren't getting caught by the window. If it is a loom try getting one off a ghia model as those I'm sure all came with power folding mirrors.

I think @zain611 and @zagobir have had good results from scrap yards, they may be able to recommend a couple to try?

I can’t understand why they won’t sell the loom without the door, it’s a PITA though. How much would a whole door set you back? Ideally you would stumble across a similar car with OSF damage making the door useless but the loom good. It sounds unlikely that it’s going to be anything other than the loom, purely because you can remedy it by manipulating the area where the loom runs. If you could get to each end of the loom you could try a mm on it and check continuity. If you can find a suitable loom that is too long then that’s probably going to be the easiest thing, couple of cable ties and some 3M stick on cable holders to hold the wire out of harms way and you should be in business. Ring around national scrappies, can’t see p&p being a massive outlay

If you are any good with a soldering iron you can do a repair job, if not go to a crappie and get a new loom Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

It’s a common issue mate, the wires in the channel will have been getting pinched and have probably now either snapped or been stripped and are causing a short Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Ive just noticed the thread title. My bad, didnt realise it was about the Docklands Light Railway.