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Yes, to be fair, unlike a lot of the other manufacturers Ford do distinguish the ST-Line by uprating the suspension etc (and generally make a pretty good job of it), so it isn't purely about looks. I just like the idea of a "sleeper" - say an ST that looked like a Titanium - but I guess I'm a bit weird in that respect ( most respects, says the Mrs😀) and the manufacturers understandably do what sells.

Haha, I saw this thread bumped to the top because of the recent comment. Then I saw @Lenny say he had the look and I got excited because I wanted it, now I see it’s from 2013 [emoji3525] Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Yep, fits straight out of box, no clips needed. You can twist off the ring that is held in place by the stock headlight bulb clip, fix the ring in the headlight and then just twist the LED bulb in it’s place. This is for the pre-facelift though, I don’t know how they would fit on facelift lights. If the bulb wouldn’t be visible = subject to easily be seen by the police during a check, I would hapilly use the 6000K version all the time. It’s very very usable for everyday driving.

{SOLVED] In case anyone else is interested this turned out to be quite straightforward. I needed: - a laptop - the Forscan software ( https://forscan.org/download.html ). I tried ELMConfig but the 'roughness' of the software made me very nervous. From other reports it would probably do the job perfectly well. - the modified ODB2 adapter recommended by James Simpson ( https://www.jamessimpson.co.uk/elmconfig-enable-ford-ecu-functions/ ) -> bbfly-BF32302 ELM327 ( https://www.amazon.co.uk/bbfly-BF32302-ELM327-modified-ELMconfig-Forscan/dp/B074JF6YNG/ref=as_li_ss_tl?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=SFVXZQ4E15NY8NW4MW43&linkCode=sl1&tag=jamesimp-21&linkId=123f982ef518526073c835c97f3081e4 ) (~£25) - Replacement steering wheel switches with the cruise control buttons (from eBay, Gala Motors) (~£75) - Wrench, to remove/replace the battery connection. - Flat-bladed screw-drivers to remove the air-bag from the steering wheel - Torx screwdriver to swap over the steering wheel switches. This model of Galaxy (UK, 2007, Zetec 2.0l Petrol) uses the 'Central Configuration' which meant that I had to use the 'Secondary Boot Loader' (SBL) which Forscan manages well and tells you what to do. Thanks to 'Central Configuration' I only had to change a single item to enable Cruise Control. I did this before swapping the steering wheel buttons with no problems. Once I put the switches on it 'just worked'TM. I hope that helps someone.

It's quite common over the years creating sleepers, Japanese Import Glanza with a UK Toyota Starlet body kit fitted was one I wanted as first car, Here's another good one on YouTube; there an episode where they take it on street dressed in wigs and walking sticks like two elderly people and smoke boy racers 😀

There is about to be a few; springs, radio, undertray, and I’m tinkering away with the paddle shifters. Will update as I do them

In your case, it would seem sensible (as I do), to secrete some money in your car for emergencies.

Yes, I preferred Zetec S also! In a way, all these "Line" things are cars that look sporty but aren't really. I prefer a car that doesn't look sporty but is. Best example was a lad I was at college with ( many moons ago now). He had a bog-standard looking grey Mini van, fitted with a tweaked Cooper S engine putting out about 95bhp (which was a lot then!). Gave a few people a surprise!😁

Many thanks for the guides, I will look at getting this done over Xmas and new year, sorry for the delay in replying.

I did not do the service but a friend did, everything looked fine, i will have another look in couple days. when i get a service i ask for the fuel filter as well. was going to check around the pipes today but omg its cold outside lol

Yeah, one of my relatives got her licence like that as well...she's always crashing into things even now, can't say it was a great idea tbh... 😮

Definitely agree with that 😂. Us guys probably are more efficient when shopping however don't know when it comes to food shopping. With me I like to walk around quickly and get what I need if I ever had to get the weeks food. My mum likes to walk around slowly and take her time looking in each Isle and getting over food that it takes just over 2 hours to leave the shop. For someone like me who likes to move around quickly it aggitates me that I'd go to the last Isle and get stuff like bread, éclairs, milk to try and save time. 😂

A buddy of mine has a 2013 Focus that's dropped it's engine last month and is sat at our local dealer awaiting a new engine. I spotted this thread a while ago and hunted it down again and emailed Mr Vine and asked what exactly he did so we could recreate the mods on the other side of the planet (England) with out having to ship him here to do the mods. Here is his reply: Hi James, Ben Gaffney’s car has now done 54000kms trouble free since the new engine was fitted and our coolant system changes were done. The changes to the coolant plumbing are relatively simple. First the flow of all the hot coolant from the cylinder head must flow through the radiator instead of the standard system where one pipe bypasses the radiator and the other flows through the radiator. The steel pipe going from the thermostat at the end of the head to the water pump needs to be cut and welded shut on the water pump end with the other end joined to the other pipe flowing into the radiator therefore forcing all hot coolant to be cooled in the radiator. The second change is the thermostat in the housing at the outgoing end of the head to be changed to one which opens at 170 degrees F. We used a local brand Tridon with the #TT518. Make sure you use an identical size double seat thermostat which fits exactly as the original. These engines self destruct because the exhaust manifold is inside the cylinder head instead of outside where its heat would escape into the air, combined with very high coolant temperature controls. All of this mechanical insanity is done to make the engine comply with EU emission rules which seem to me to be intentionally aimed at destroying the viability of the internal combustion engine. LONG LIVE BREXIT Yours in Motoring Mike Vine PS: If you wish you could post your email and my response on the internet to give the world an understanding of the problem and one way to fix it.# He also sent a diagram of the coolant flow from the 1.0 to accompany his description. It's attached to the post I also hunted down the Tridon thermostat part and its either of these on their site as they are identical, an email to them confirmed that they were just listed in two different categories. https://www.tridon.com.au/products/Tridon/35/479/thermostats-and-gaskets/528046/thermostat-high-flow/301076/TT518-170 https://www.tridon.com.au/products/Tridon/35/479/thermostats-and-gaskets/381955/thermostat/301076/TT518-170 They are available on ebay and there is probably other parts suppliers that have an identical part it's just a case of find and measure. We have NOT done the mods described here yet. If any one does do the mods please post your results! I would recommend measuring the existing thermostat to make sure it is the same dimensions as the original before purchasing one as we haven't at time of posting. Happy modding! J

I never noticed they were meant for projector lights. I've got Philips X-treme vision bulbs in, I've had Nightbreakers before and they don't last 5 minutes.

Autobeam (for low beams) is crap, return the ligths and get some Nightbreaker Lasers, or something similar.

Its been a long time, just to let you all know I finally got round to installing lights in my car. Completed a few months ago, just havent had the time to do it nor post on here. I would like to point out that although it looks purple the colour is actually blue, but still looks pretty cool in the photos B) . I did end up splicing into the overhead light, I actually worked out that there is a 2 negative feeds and a positive going up to the light. One of the negatives is always there and is used for when you use the switch to turn the light on and off, the other negative becomes live when you unlock the car or open any of the doors. So i therefore ran 2 wires down from the light, one spliced into the negative door feed the other spliced into the positive feed. I had them go into a 3 way switch along with a always live negative that I connected to the cars body. Therefore I have the choice to either have the lights come on automatically with the overhead light or switch it over so that the lights were always on. O and I added a dimmer switch so I can dim the brightness if I wanted too :) Thanks for all the advice everyone !