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I love our brainy crows that come on our back yard,we live on end house with fields and large trees so a few birds come but the last 3 weeks i have put a tub of water on our shed as well as having a bird bath. 3 massive crows get there bread and dip it in the bath to make it soft,sometime leave it and come back then eat it and go onto shed as deeper tub (3'') and drink and wash. Will have to have a word with them as they are starting on junk food now,french fries and bits of a beefburger as someone dropped some just outside on the road,keeps the pigeons away which is a great thing.

Like finally getting round to fitting reverse camera to my Mondeo that links into sync2 . Cost all of £8 . Result.

same here 👍

I don't like painting...... I especially don't like painting skirtings!

Morning all, im located in mid-wales and I recently bought a 2009 focus 1600 tdci facelift as a car for commuting, I'm very impressed, but would like to learn how to get the creature comforts and gadgets in/on it as wecover a lot of miles together ! I'm a keen amateur at best so I'll need some advice. Thanks for reading.

I put a lovely exhaust trim on mine, plus a lovely set of plastic wheel trims LOL

Like a lot of people it seems, I had trouble with the radiator/cooling fan not operating on my S Max. Presumably this also applies to the Galaxy mk3 and the Mondeo. I have now fixed the problem and thought it would be helpful to share what I know as there is little information that I found when searching the internet, some of which is incorrect. I am an electronics/software engineer by trade and so for my own curiosity as much as anything I wanted to find out how the fan operates..... Attached to the cooling fan housing is a speed controller in a small metal box. Some forum posts refer to this as a relay box, which is incorrect. It is driven by a PWM signal - to those who don't know what that is, it is a continuous series of pulses that change width dependant on the speed required. There are three wires going to the fan controller, a permanent 12V feed (Red), a ground (Black) and a pink wire. The pink wire is the control (PWM) wire. There are two wires that come out of the other end of the speed controller and connect to the fan. The powertrain control module (PCM) in the wheel arch drives the PWM signal on the pink wire. So how do you tell if the fan should be on? The signal on the pink wire appears to be an open-collector drive - a bit technical but basically means that you probably won’t be able to measure a signal unless it is plugged in to the fan speed controller at the time. This is also how the PCM detects a fan fault. The speed controller has an internal pull-up resistor between the pink wire and 12V (Measures about 2700 ohms). When the fan is connected, the PCM module can see the 12V on the pink wire, so when the fan is disconnected, the 12V disappears from the pink wire and the PCM can detect a fault. If you have a voltmeter - when connected between ground and the pink wire you should see 12V (or whatever the battery voltage is) when the fan is off and a lower voltage when the fan is on. The actual voltage will depend on how fast the fan should be going and the type of voltmeter but it will probably be around 4V at full speed. I believe there are two ways to force the fan to come on. The first is to disconnect the engine temperature sensor - however I did not try this as I was not sure where it was. The second method (that I used) is to turn the aircon on full - when the aircon is on the cooling fan should come on full speed. This will only happen though when the engine is running as the aircon pump has to be engaged. If you just want to test the fan itself works, you can disconnect the 2 pin connector from the output of the fan controller and connect them to 12V and GND. I did this by also removing the 3 pin connector and using the red and black connections on their to link across to the fan connector. So what was wrong with my fan ? I had what appears to be a common problem of the pink control wire being broken/corroded in the wiring loom. The following is a description of a right hand drive, I don't know if the engine layout is different for a LHD. The PCM module is located in the passenger (near) side wheel arch. You need to remove the wheel and arch liner to get at it (Mine has the protective cover over the connectors with a shear bolt which I don't have tools to remove). You don’t have to take the wheel/liner off but I found it gave me better access to the loom. The wiring loom from the PCM goes through the arch and at about 6 inches in to the engine bay (pretty much under the bottom radiator hose) part of the loom goes up to the top. This bit of the loom is cable tied to the inner wing. This contains the pink control wire which then goes across to the fan controller. My pink wire was broken/corroded at the point the loom separates in the bottom of the bay. There are two reasons for this. The first is that the cable firstly bends to the left and then is bent back on itself to go the wheel arch and taped up so that there is too tight a bend in the wire. The second reason is that this join is below the washer fluid bottle and water dribbles down into the join which over time corrodes the wire. What I learnt when fixing the problem: It is much easier to access from the bottom of the engine bay. I started trying to un-tape the loom from the top (After removing the air filter box). After removing the wheel arch liner, I discovered it was much easier to access from the bottom and removing the liner gives you more room to manoeuvre your arms. You will have to remove a fair amount of tape and some conduit from the loom to work out which wire it is but there are only a couple of pink wires in that part of the loom and I think only one that has a tight bend. I cut out the bent/corroded piece of wire and replaced it. I have read on some forums that any fault codes need to be reset before the fan will work again. I didn’t reset my code (P145C, Fan System Component A) and it worked anyway. The attached pictures show 1) A picture of the PWM signal on the pink wire viewed on an oscilloscope. This is with the fan full on. 2) a picture of the wiring loom from above after removing tape/conduit - This taken with the air intake box removed. 3) The small section of wire that I removed and the break/corrosion in the middle 4) A view of the PCM module inside the wheel arch with the liner removed 5) A picture of the wiring loom from below with the pink wire cut out Hopefully all of this info will be useful to someone……

Well had a nice long weekend so decided to have a go at all the swirls covering every inch of the paintwork - great for a 500 miles car 😞 guess it was 500 miles back and forth through a car wash? Got a lot of the defects out (85 - 90%) then applied EX-P sealant, removed all wheels to seal insides and outers and applied the decals bought from DMB Tyres dressed with Megs endurance gel, black trim protected with Aerospace 303 Trying to find some gloss black mirror covers if anyone knows where to buy them?

Completed the cam belt change today on the 1.4 tdci doner car had a few swearing moments. But was the best feeling when it started first time. Bliss. Thankyou so much for this guide just saved me over 400 quid took me about 6 hours in total doing alot of breaking off for dinner, drinks and searching for parts. Bought a 12mm drill bit for the flywheel and grinded it down but still wouldnt fit as I realised some same size drill bits have different size shafts 😂 (wasted 5er) also broke my grinder disk so couldn't cut anything else down to size lol. Luckily after some searching found a bolt that fit so snug. Got soaked in coolant Haha. But I'm now wiser and more confident to tackle the 1.6zs tdci. Cheers guys 👍

The rear brakes do something like 15% of the overall braking force. Even if you are using them all the time and heating them, you wont gain much. That being said, it does look a lot better than drums, especially once you paint them red to get an extra 5hp each side.

That's what's known as bambi mode. There are codes out there to configure it in the BCM with Forscan but they don't work (as yet) on Focus 4 (I've tried). Maybe soon someone will sort it out. I don't think I'd be messing around with the wiring on a brand new car, Ford love to not pay out if they don't have to

👍 thanks, will do.

@iantt had to put your old profile picture in my university degree group chat on WhatsApp 😂

brilliant, thanks

Here’s how the boot of the car looks now. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

When I had my check at 12 months it wasn't recorded in the service book because it doesn't count as an actual service, which is not due until 2 years/18,000 miles. I do have the bill of course, though as has been discussed on other threads, I have never found, come trade in time, any dealer to take the slightest interest in anything other than the service book being stamped at the specified intervals (or, for some makes, the online service record being up to date).

Hi Bannko could I also please have the Sync 2 satnav info, pretty please?

I'll get a plug in fan in there 😂😂

They said the sniffer could detect a slight leak inside the car. But then they said that about the condenser but the leak wasn't there

I've gone with AutoAid this year, £48 Nationwide recovery & Home start (essential when you're a DIY mechanic on your local street). Had to use them as well (when the EGR shut down completely 😄 ) . No complaints!

I have a Mk7.5 Fiesta 16 plate. Although you can see the reflections if you look, I don't find them in any way distracting whilst driving. You have to be focusing on objects quite close to your car before the reflections come into focus. In normal everyday driving you should be looking well ahead up the road by a good few hundred metres or more, if you are doing that then you won't see the reflections. If you are staring at the back of the car 50 metres in front, you are not driving correctly or following too closely.

Well replacing the switch has resolved my issue and boot is now opening, this is how I did it... Removed the two handle covers on the back of the boot lit and unscrewed the two Philips screws behind each one... I found there are 6 nuts holding the outer boot handle on the car so you need to remove these but be careful not to lose them behind the metal... Back on the outside of the boot the plastic should now just pull away, you should then be able to push our the button, pull the cable and swap... I gave it all a little clean behind there, I tested it worked and then reassembled in reverse order, tested a few more times and all is well again!

Not a massive update today but new lights all round, ceuk led dipped and fogs alone with hi beam and chrome indicators but going to get the same super bright led indicators as I had on the RS also changed the number plate lights, all interior lights, fitted a Tune+ oil breather oil cap same as the rs one I had to stop crankcase pressure building and release pressure from the stock pcv system so less oil in the intake, also fitted a NB styling bonnet lifter not to happy with the bonnet gaps but will adjust when I have time done the reverse bulbs to leds as well, fitted a throttle pedal spacer so I can heal and toe again make so mad down shifts happen not really too much else to report, for both catch cans coming to fit next week some time and a short colour coded Ariel from paint modz and that’s all for now.. will see where this one takes us

I have a dash mat which reduces the glare significantly. Still not perfect though

Guess it all depends if you're content to continue with Ford service after one year. We've always been happy with our usual dealer so kept our Fords with them and got the cover. With other makes it depends. SEAT do a similar thing with breakdown but not thrilled with the service/prices there so moved the Mrs's Mii to the local garage when the warranty expired and added breakdown to her insurance.

Another one! There do seem to be a lot of us on here, but then I've been told it does mainly affect intelligent people😀 - but really it's no joke, particularly when you get people dismissing it as "just a headache". Mine seemed to be mainly stress-related, though as mentioned above glare also seemed a trigger. I started really suffering about the same time as my 'O' level course, then continued through college and work, though oddly as I climbed higher up the greasy pole it seemed to lessen, getting a bit older by then as well, of course. Interesting what you say about the blood pressure, Martin. My incidence/severity has dropped again since 60 when I was told I have a heart condition and put on beta-blockers. I've discussed with my GP/consultant whether this could partly be responsible for the reduction in migraines and they said it could well be. And another sorry from me for diverting off topic!

That's a fact though, its not just your opinion...

I've just got a space saver for my ST which has the Bo play sub. I specd the variable boot floor and it just about fits under so I have both under my boot floor. You could probably make a second boot floor to go over it if you wanted to do the same.

Tried this this afternoon. The first photo is with a standard iphone and the second is with the same phone with a polarizing sunglasses lens over the camera lens.

Hi Welcome

If he’s run the wire between the grommet and bulkhead, that’s a fire waiting to happen! The grommet is there to protect the wire from chaffing on metal edges as well as keeping fumes and water out. Don’t do this! Small nick (even use a suitable screwdriver - gives a nice round hole) through a safe part of the grommet, then lube the wire with washing liquid and poke through. It looks a nightmare to get to but actually once you see it it’s not too bad. Easier to go from inside out.

this explains the rear door wire molex connector why mine only had 1, looks like they all only use 1 block connector not 2(grey and black block connectors) like the front doors. some mondeo mk4 wire looms on ebay show this too. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FORD-FOCUS-MK3-REAR-DOOR-WIRING-LOOM-PASSENGER-LEFT-NEARSIDE-NSR-2011-2015-/173243972285?hash=item2856253abd%3Ag%3ANF4AAOSwQGZaviVm&nma=true&si=KKw%2FnrDMTvXXg6vBEaClN8c1F9M%3D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557

I'm not too happy about receiving a solid ash wooden height chart which on the website has no holes in the centre And well here is the item received with four 6mm holes in the centre. I've now ordered four brass mirror screws which have flat bronze caps to disguise the screws.

Don't like seeing a loved one gravely ill and close to passing away 😢😭