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The Joys of motoring in Manchester.

50 second mark!?!? I think the mod's should change @zain611's avatar to an Orange high heeled shoe! 😄

Happy to report this has become a "thing I do like". After 2 months and a couple of email nudges the Council have actually sorted this out properly by removing the old damaged manhole frame and cover, replacing it with a new one (actually flush with the road surface!!), and reinstating the surrounding area to a decent standard. So credit where credit's due!😀

Matt, I have a 1.0 Focus estate 125 and although it's a big car it's pretty quick, only performance mod I made was installing a K&N air filter. It will do 85mph up hill in 3rd and gets there very quick much to the amazement frustration of some BMW Audi and Merc drivers...😀 Cruising in 6th at 70 on a motorway should be no problem at all. So there is definitely something wrong with your new purchase. It would be interesting to see what fault codes come up because I'd imagine there must be some in there. Only thing I can think of is maybe its still running on the original CAT at 80k and it's failing which would severely reduce performance? Definitely needs an obd2 reader to read any codes and look into IM readiness & live data to find out what's going on, hope you get it sorted soon.

I have a 2013 125 HP 1.0 ECOboost Hatchback and have also driven 1.0 ECOboost wagons a few times. The performance described by the topicstarter is definitely not normal. The 125 HP version of the 1.0 ECOboost usuallay has more power/torque than specified by Ford. 130+ HP / 200+ Nm of torque is no exception. With these figures the car should perform fine. My car accelerates to 180 KM/H (112 MPH) in 6th gear (fully legal on the German motorway) without any problem. Above this speed the car accelerates considerably slower. The highest speed I drove with this car is 210 KM/H (130 MPH). Regarding the electric coolant pump: Focus MK3 1.0 ECOboost vehicles that are produced before 05-05-2014 do only have the additional electric coolant pump if the car has a factory fitted towbar. In case a towbar is installed afterwards the additional electric coolant pump must also be retrofitted as instructed by Ford. Vehicles produced after 05-05-2014 do have the electric coolant pump as standard. If the car has a towbar (both factory fitted or fitted afterwards) the additional electric coolant pump must also be present. However a lack of knowledge about this subject is a well known reason why people install a towbar afterwards withoud installing the additional electric coolant pump. In this case it is important to check whether the car has the additional electric coolant pump or not.

Hi, Owned my White 2012 Focus Zetec S 2.0 for 4 years now, and i love it. I have just purchased (as a 2nd car) a Blue 2014 Fiesta Zetec S 1.0 Ecoboost (125), receiving it on the 31st August 2019.

Hi I've just bought my second ever ford a focus 1.8 zetec climate, got it at auction as a total whim and early days but it seems like a decent car.

Hey everyone, I've been a forum user for many years in the vag scene, I've just got rid of my audi and decided I'm going to convert, so I got myself a lovely sea grey mk3 mondeo St tdci, it has the usual saggy a××e syndrome and a couple of small car park dings on the passenger side as well as a crack in a side skirt but otherwise is a really clean well looked after motor, I got it on the 1st of August and have done the black eye headlights as well as blacked the chrome bits on the external parts of the fog lights, I intend to black all the chrome bits over time as I prefer a subtle look, weather hasn't been on my side of late, also fitted a parrot hands free and removed most of the towbar oh and fitted white leds where possible and done the fold on lock mirror mod too, I will upload some shots I took after the 1st of the 3 stage polish it was getting, stage 2 and 3 got postponed due to rain lol

The IC (cluster) will need re-programming. 2 problems are the odometer (mileage), and the immobiliser (PATS). The ECU and the IC are matched up for PATS, the key codes are effectively stored in both. Forscan on a Windows (or Linux) system can increase odometer readings, but can not decrease them, for security reasons. It can also re-program the PATS codes, but it is a fairly complex process. Changing both the ECU and the IC is not straightforward either, depending on your engine type, there may be some re-programming of the ECU needed (injector codes etc.). The year of the car and engine type are missing here. However before doing anything so drastic, it needs to be confirmed if the fault is in the IC. Most of the internet reports relate to the 2006 IC bad batch, outside this date IC faults are less common than wiring or connector faults. I am not at all clear what the current symptoms are. An IC fault will produce many DTCs, I had loads when mine went. Also the PATS LED will flash out a code if there is an immobiliser problem caused by the faulty IC. Resistance tests on the CAN bus can help determine if there is a fault in the wiring or in the IC.

Yeah hence why im doing it myself as i dont have a spare kidney to sell on ebay for it 😉 Cheers Stef.

The guides can say what they want, just think of how much it would cost you in labour if a professional garage had to tie up a lift to change your coolant.. let the system cool off if you have driven it before hand, more so important because you don’t want it all over yourself. Then it’s perfectly fine to fill the system, run it up to temp/bleed it and top up as required. I always check the system lsvel again when cold or advise the owner to do so if it’s leaving me before it cools.

Drain it and refill, doesn’t need over complicated. Preferably drain when cool to avoid scalding.

I have a waterproof fleece jacket given to me from work; I like to wear as it reminds people of "Breaking Bad" 😂 Doesn't swet you as much as a full acid suit. Eh; all views are my own opinion just putting that in there to keep It work compliant 😅

Hi, Yes that's correct but some aftermarket headunits now offer to display the rear camera while driving or on demand without having to put the car in reverse gear; In order to be able to use this feature aswell, If you wanted then you just need to put the camera Positive power to an ignition live instead. I missed that feature in my guide and my pioneer headunit offers the feature but I cant use it as my camera power comes from the reverse light Positive 🤷‍♂️

I don't like seeing this Connect van in a local transport yard. Reason for not liking? Brand new as can be seen by no number plates and a sticker in the driver's window with a vehicle dismantler's address on it! What looked like minor damage to the front N/S of the bumper and wing, headlight was loose as well.....but that was it. Obviously I couldn't see anything underneath but I couldn't imagine that a minor bump in transit would affect it. Seems a waste! I'll ask my son when he comes home, he works at the local Ford garage so may have some inside info. EDIT: Son says front chassis is bent! Hopefully someone will buy it as a Damaged/repairable.

I have made a quick diagram of how I understand it to be connected, please could someone confirm if this is correct? @shiwarrior @Lenny @

Hi Welcome

I suspect you'll have no choice other than to work through the whole list of PIDs on Forscan to see if any sound about right. I'm lead to believe that the DPF system essentially has a "counter" that's incremented every time you fill up with fuel and when you hit a certain figure the ECU treats the fluid/tank as empty. If the garage that previously refilled the fluid didn't reset the counter it could explain the current behaviour. Thankfully my 1.8 TDCi never had a DPF so it's not something I've had to worry about. It's definitely something you need to get sorted as a priority because DPFs don't take long to block if they can't regenerate when they need to (or at all).

I had a bushy head then and that black coat which I like to call a detailing coat (as the car detailing YouTuber I watch wears a similar coat) I always wear.

Keep on at them mate until you're happy. I had 18 months commuting from Barnsley to Milton Keynes via various hire cars (many of which were MK3.5 Focus) and can definitely vouch for the performance of the 1.0 125 BHP engine. Once it's running properly I'm sure you'll be well happy with the performance.

i haven't fitted mine yet, ill be doing it in a couple of weeks when i have the whole day spare i think its just positive and negative of the reversing light Should be on the guide

I do/did like watching how mattresses are made on Inside the Factory last night... Anyone else see it? I was amazed I'd got this old without knowing what's inside one!

Ford should make it that if you change the setting in Forscan it sounds like Joe Pasquale making engine noises.

Eventually got round to properly checking for leaks with vacuum pump and gauge and found a leak in the feed(suction?) side of the throttle control vacuum solenoid (the only bit I hadn't replaced of course), so just waiting on new one to turn up.

Wow. That's a hell of a wait. I've never been in the position to order a new car but my father in law ordered a new Peugeot 5008 and got it within 6 weeks which I thought was very reasonable.

Part of my work duties involve dealing with similar issues. A sunken/broken/noisy manhole cover is a common occurrence and can be either quite simply to deal with or an absolute nightmare. When a utility cover is broken or failing, the highway authority has to identify who it belongs to (sometimes obvious other times a complete pain in the rear) and then report it to the relevant owner to make them aware that it needs repairs (otherwise known as a Section 81 defective apparatus report). If a cover is deemed hazardous, there is a potentially a 2 hour window for a utility to attend and make safe BUT if the cover is completely missing then the attending highway inspector should put measures in place to make safe until such time as the relevant utility can attend to take over the site. A non-hazardous cover (noisy) has ultimately no specific timeframe from reporting the matter to being repaired. A utility may attend and inspect a cover within 5 or 10 days but a repair/replacement might take days, weeks or months (or even a year in one case I know of) to be completed. Certain utilities are better than others and without naming names, one telecom company can be both extremely rapid to down right forgetful (things lost in the system) where as the other telecom company will 'black over' a cover and do nothing for months until things become hazardous again and then rinse and repeat! Obviously highway authorities have their own covers for surface drainage and can be no better or worse in dealing with things. Without waffling on too much, if you do come across similar issues with damaged covers etc., report it via your local highway authorities website or call them directly if hazardous. I don't recommend third party sites like FixMyStreet as in my experience it is adds extra layers of admin in transposing details across different system platforms and is widely in accurate as I've found on many occasions. TLDR: Broken covers are bad!

LOL, oh, the impetuous nature of "I ordered it so I want it now"! Having not bought a new car for over 30 years, I'd forgotten how impatient you can get.🤣 You should bookmark this post so that in 2 years time, when something breaks/falls off, you can recall all that excitement of waiting for it to be built!

Ah, when I said continued on foot I wasn't going all the way into the centre. It's about 2.5 miles, which I suppose is a bit far for many people, particularly if loaded up with shopping. I've always done a lot of walking so my definition of "walkable" tends to be different to some. I do think this P&R is too near the centre - places like Cambridge, for example, have their P & R much further out which better keeps the traffic away from the centre. I don't use it myself to get into the city centre btw, if I want to do that the normal service bus stops right outside my door anyway, I use the P&R as it's a good starting point for several walks and saves an initial drag by a main road which is not very pleasant. A (fit) visitor from elsewhere however, might well decide to park up and walk into the city from there taking in various points of interest, my point is why should they face a potential penalty as opposed to someone who does the same thing on a bike?

Always a good result, cheap and pretty straight forward!

Be aware that the expected production date can change without any notification. If parts needed for options of the car that are not available because of part shortage or put on hold because of technical reasons the production date can be delayed for undefined time. There are several examples of people who had to wait over 8 months for delivery of their Focus MK4. Another thing that can delay the production date is the factory holiday. The factory is completely closed for a period of 3 weeks. This usually results in approximately a 3 to 4 weeks delay.

Check /replace air filter 1st job. Some say blanking the egr cures smoke level.. £3 on ebay for a plate tho' will eventually put on eml on later cars. But shld be enough to get thro' mot. Thoroughly check boost pipes for splits. If any tell-tale signs of oil on or around them this is a clue that there's a split. Get injectors tested by a proper diesel specialist. (not a garage) To cut costs remove and refit them yourself. Then it's approx £12+vat each. Price of refurbed injectors has come right down recently, check out pfjones ad on the net or ebay

Wheels out of balance all hunkydory now. Should of known better than to trust a car dealer to do a job properly 😩

Moral of this tale? mechanic mates vs. online posts: no contest!

Yeh it's for joining but thanks 😄

Depending on what engine you have it might be worth checking if there are any software updates for the pcm with ford first. Mine is a 2011 1.6 ti-vct engine and when I got it a couple of years ago it didn't feel as powerful as my old mk1 1.6 even though it was going up from 100hp to 125hp. I had issues with occasional stalling when pulling up at lights and the tickover was a bit random around 750 rpm. I read on here that the software update levelled off the tickover around 850rpm and after I had all modules updated it stopped the stalling problem and felt a lot more powerful. You will have to get it booked in at a ford dealer to get the updates done but you may be able to get the updates done as part of a ford service.

You meant circumference didn't you?

Big thank you to mastachaz for the new headlights, they're in and working 🙂 Those Vland lights remind me a lot of the Audi or the new Focus Mk 4 DRLs and it's nice to see an RS in red!

Just to confirm, the 100 size battery I bought has fitted fine in the 1.8's battery box. All it needed was a small spacer removing from the back of the battery box and a small bit of packing put under the upper battery clamp. It should last a bit better than the battery that came out!

Definitely a fuse. It's very common to blow the fuse when tinkering with interior lights, they seem particularly sensitive for some reason. Fuses don't always show clearly if they're gone, try a new one for sure. Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk

Thanks Gavin - interesting, hadn't thought of the cat as a potential cause. The dealer has booked it into a Ford garage next week so I'll have to wait til then, but thanks all for your replies - I'm not going to accept being told there's nothing wrong with it!

Hi Matt, I have a 2012 Titanium 1.0L Ecoboost 125ps estate and I can certainly confirm that what you have described is abnormal. Mine will cruise comfortably at the legal maximum in sixth and will accelerate from that if necessary for safe overtaking. This is still true with three people and a bootful of holiday luggage athough I do notice the extra load. I think your suspicions re. the turbo are probably well founded (by the way the turbo on this engine doesn't really 'kick in' because its a very small, light, high-speed unit so comes in quite progressively). It's unlikely to be the throttle as you said the cruise control couldn't maintain speed and this bypasses it when engaged. Did the garage not check for any stored codes? I was under the impression that models specified with a towbar automatically got the electric coolant pump but perhaps this was an aftermarket towbar. I would definitely keep pushing your case and don't get fobbed off.

Or you could consider purchasing a pair of good quality Faraday key pouches. They achieve the same result as the new sleeping key fobs at a fraction of the cost. A Sleeping Key fob will not transmit a signal until physically moved. However, although a Standard Key Fob transmits continually its signal will be blocked when enclosed in a good quality Faraday pouch.

Not if you've got the new motion detection fobs that they're coming out of the factory with . £72 each to upgrade at a dealer.

I've been travelling recently with a cool box plugged into the 12v socket. After a journey where I'd stopped a couple of times, which would have left the cool box running for up to an hour, I half noticed that the keyless entry wasn't working on anything other than the drivers door. I had expected start/stop to be probably non-functional, and it was, but hadn't twigged on the keyless entry until I saw this thread. After a reasonable journey without the cool box everything was back to normal, so it would seem that's it's sensitive to even a small drop in battery charge.

The codes don't stack up with the symptoms. P1260 Theft Detected - Vehicle Immobilized would prevent starting, not cause the malfunction error. The Instrument Cluster connector fault is very, very common for 2006 Foci, but less so for other years. Not sure what age the vehicle is, the profile says 2002, but the title says Mk2a (post 2008). Basic OBD2 readers are very poor at picking up the Ford specific codes that can accompany malfunction messages, and the AA readers may not be much better. Torque is usually quite good, but wireless CAN adapters are notorious for unreliability. The safest option is Forscan and a USB ELM327, but it needs a laptop or similar. There will be dozens of possible causes of the error light and message. The remote control and keyfob is not linked to the immobiliser logic. A separate part of the key (a PATS capsule) is read by the immobiliser. And the immobiliser will never activate while the car is in use, for safety reasons.

if it is the instrument cluster, I can say from doing it myself it is very easy to get out and quite easy to dismantle. And if you can't do fiddly fine soldering yourself, someone who can do that can do it less then 5 minutes if you hand them the circuit board out of the instrument cluster (eg if you have a local TV repair shop - do they still exist?) for a small amount of cash. and if you look at the pins on the circuit board with a magnifying glass before resoldering it might be possible to see the cracks in the soldering.(you can only see that when the circuit board is removed from the plastic surround as you need to see the reverse side, not the side with the connection pins sticking out.. But it could well be connectors in the wiring of the car - under bonnet, behind dashboard etc (my long thread mentions where they are). And thanks to TDCI peter for his assistance

I feel your pain, have a look at this thread which is about the problems on my brother's Focus mk2.5

Sounds like an immobiliser fault, likely to be caused by bad soldering in the dash cluster (speedo clocks), fairly common issue on the Mk2 although less frequent on the Mk2.5. If you have a Windows laptop I'd recommend Forscan over any generic OBD scanner.

I personally don't see why you're concerned about leaving people waiting at traffic lights when leaving the car in neutral...it only takes a second to press the clutch and go into first and by that time I'm already moving (albeit slowly) although I normally don't bother with the handbrake. It's certainly worth it in order to use the stop/start system. Mine has hill assist although it doesn't always work, on a steep hill I'd use the handbrake. I'm averaging 44mpg, a fair amount of my driving is country roads and driving at 30 in 4th.

Several points: a. Holding the car on the clutch will not do the clutch much good. b. I'm an ex police driver and, that being so, whenever I stop the car goes into neutral and the clutch is released. Police drivers are taught to look after the car. This allows the stop/start system to work and will save a fair amount of fuel. I have the same engine as you and get a regular 40 mpg driving practically 100% in a city centre. (Nottingham) c. Maximum torque on this engine is 1400 rpm and it will hold this throughout it's range so it is designed to run at low revs. d. Although the car has high gearing it will run happily in 4th at 30mph.