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we should just have a simple cheap, very reliable petrol engine (2 or 3 cyl) with gear driven cams and super charger that's tuned for great NVH to suit a limited rev band. It would be almost noise free, give incredible economy and emissions and just run a generator, so vehicles are on electricity all the time... much like an i8 why have ANY need to run any engine in town, continually on off in traffic, and thus have no heater, no ac etc. because the battery is low or flat or the engine is off? I don't want stop start ever, you programme the journey and only have the motor fire if it was going to reach operating temp and run for greater than 15 minutes between 2000 to 3000 rpm. The biggest drain would be long motorway trips, but based on starting charge and duration (and if you pick a charge slot on the trip) it could do 80 mph all the way with a slow discharge of the battery to get even better mpg or leave it topped up for some city work at the other end etc. with the engine gently supporting limited battery abuse, the engine would do 20k on one oil change produce imperceptible emissions, and both it and the battery would last 20 years and not be wrecked inside 24 months of stop start or continual abuse at fast charging stations (that need to generate electricity in peak day time demand !!!) tractors should be banned / CVT should be banned / petrol only banned for new cars inside next 12 months / non plug in hybrids banned / petrol first battery second banned / 0 to 60 under 6 seconds banned / 0 to 60 > 10 seconds banned / > 130 banned ….better still get everyone walking & I'll use the roads appropriately for my 230bhp bike to do 4 seconds to 100 and 200 top end

Update to the original topic of the thread - just done an oil change there and reset the warning. Thanks all for your comments. Procedure for resetting the warning message: Press the start button without depressing clutch to switch on ignition. Press and hold the brake and accelerator pedal until "oil system reset in progress" shows up on the dash. Reset will take place and "oil system reset complete" will pop up.

I thought the oil for an Ecoboost 100 was 5/30 but, reading the handbook while waiting for my wife at the QMC this morning, discovered that it is actually 5/20.

Me neither. I usually do an extra oil change on all my vehicles midway through the service interval period anyway, so I have no issue doing this oil change now (in fact, I'm doing it today once I've been to get oil). My dad told me a long time ago "jug of oil is the cheapest mechanic there is", so I change the oil in both my cars and both my bikes every 6 months anyway. Sometimes longer on the pickup actually because it takes 9.8 litres!!

Thank you

https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=+M6+X+16MM+bolt&_sacat=0

Hi. @Bannko My searching has brought me here! Really hoping that there’s a chance you could provide me with information on how to add Sat Nav to my sync2 touch system on my 2015 C-Max. My current version is 3.08 and has information on the top right of the screen. I’m a complete novice so hoping it’s not too difficult. Thanks in advance

@Lenny just thought about the filter, don't think flexi would work as it needs the fixed pipework to actually hold the filter up.

It did, they had demos of the Mk4 at the dealer when I picked up my Fiesta ST in June 2018.

I think that the point of mhev is that it should comply with the government's ban on vehicles driven by only petrol or diesel whilst not adding significantly to the cost of the vehicle. On a long journey it isn't likely to save any fuel at all as it won't be doing anything. Around town it doesn't offer much more than a stop/start car in terms of fuel saving. If it will allow me to keep running a petrol vehicle it will be worth the small extra cost for the motor and battery that I didn't need.

In the experience i had i did the SYNC 3 software update in one go about 30 mins (this is the main OS update) The map update i did with engine on/off no USB in for a bit at times but it still went through eventually again this may be quicker with a newer quicker memory stick mine was a old spare one i had kicking arround. Each system was still available while the update processed (radio dab sat-nav ever-note didn't test everything but i wasn't hindered) as the unit wont apply the update until you turn engine off and on again (2 min wait between)

Yes it does. Did it myself on my old mk2. I have a full PDF guide for this in my link below my posts (view on a PC). Obviously a facelift radio is needed plus the oem mounting brackets and some self tapping screws. All listed in the guide. These are the brackets you need- https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F252764988774 Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk

From recollection yes. 99% of the time taken to do an update is just the time it takes to read and unpack the data from the USB stick and write it to the Sync's FLASH memory. The current navigation application is already running in RAM, so won't be affected until you do an ignition cycle, at which point the new application is loaded from FLASH into RAM and then it runs (The latter is what it does every ignition cycle and is fairly quick. i.e. 10's of seconds!)

Partly because I couldn't care less about the paint, the local cats will continue to ruin it far more than anyone else. But also because there aren't any empty spaces now. Too many cars and ignorant neighbours that can't park...we're meant to have one space each, yet most flats have 2 people with a car each now...and one flat even has 4 cars taking up 6 spaces between them. Further fuelling my hatred of other people... Honestly wish I could just move into the countryside away from people altogether.

Turned out to be a relay that needed replacing in the fuse box under the bonnet.

No surely Edd China is the cheapest mechanic - labour charge: £0ph!

@TomsFocus this is a good watch. Actually agree on his say about these TV shows increasing younger peoples expectations on their body appearance

i still cant see the point of mhev.

We've got the Adey Professional 2 which I chose because they seemed quite easy to clean (I got a plumber to fit it) and got good write-ups. I really don't know about flexipipe on it though 🤔 I seem to remember that they advise you to install it as near to the boiler as possible, and I think on the return to catch any bigger bits before it gets to the boiler. This video explains things a lot better than I ever could. 😉

Quick update, think I have sussed out where the bad cold start is coming from. The fuel lines under the airbox probably have a small split in there somewhere from where I was cleaning the injector connectors, air seeps into the pipes over night and then starts rough the next day. I'm waiting for ford to sell me the parts as they are on order. Will update when installed.

Have u checked the inner tie rod for play? Gearbox will be notchy when cold but check the oil level it can be accessed from the plastic box at the front just under the bumper passenger side any leaking oil would assume selector shaft seal.

The AC doesn't keep coming on if you set it properly. Set the climate to Eco, don't hit the 'max demist' button and don't set it to windscreen only. The AC should stay off then. However you are right that the SS wont work if the AC is trying to lower the temperature, once the desired temp is reached and it doesn't need the compressor running to maintain then the SS can cut in if other parameters are also met. If you haven't reached 25mph on a journey I doubt the battery would have been able to recharge sufficiently since starting to allow the SS to work. If you're regularly doing short, slow journeys then the SS won't work much. Personally I found it worked a few times every journey on my 2012 Focus and the same on my current 2012 Golf, depends massively on the type of driving you do.

Did you ever resolve this issue? what was the outcome? Thanks

Very common, switch off the WiFi updates feature.

Ford does not support retrofitting of optional functions. Do not expect any support from Ford. Retrofitting of the reverse camera on the Focus MK4 requires reverse engineering at both hardware (parts/wiring) and software level. At this moment there is very little information available. If you want to retrofit the original reverse camera you either have to do the reverse engineering yourself or wait untill someone else does the reverse engineering.

Thanks guys! Bulb changed and aok.