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  1. Mark-UK

    Mark-UK

    True Ford Enthusiast


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    YOG

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  3. alexp999

    alexp999

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  4. StewartHarris

    StewartHarris

    Budding Enthusiast


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Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation on 08/10/2020 in all areas

  1. You really only need to remove loose, flaky rust particles, as the rust converter needs something to convert. Any bare-metal parts, I would first give a coating containg zinc. I used Bilt Hamber Electrox, available in aerosol and tins, and contains in excess of 93% pure zinc: https://www.bilthamber.com/corrosion-protection-and-rust-treatments/electrox You can then follow up with whatever you want. As a belt and braces (not strictly necessary, but Bilt Hamber said it wouldn't do any harm), I first went over the Electrox and rust converter (Bilt Hamber Hydrate 80, in my case) areas with Hammerite No. 1 Rust Beater. I finished off all the underbody and wheel arches with a few coats of Dynax-UB under-body anti-corrosion wax, and sprayed the cavities with Dynax S50 aerosols. Hammerite No. 1 Rust Beater: https://www.hammerite.co.uk/product/no-1-rust-beater/ All other products by Bilt Hamber: https://www.bilthamber.com/corrosion-protection-and-rust-treatments/
    2 points
  2. Updates are rolling out in the US for 3.4 and their equivalent of F9 (119) at the moment. So updates are being released, hopefully not long before EU cars get the go ahead.
    2 points
  3. Latest update from a Ford case manager "In regards to knowing if there is a new update coming soon, I have chased this up and we have not got a firm release date but have been advised that an update will be made available in August. In regards to raising your complaint further, I will be sure to note down you email and make sure it is fedback to the correct people in the business to be reviewed. Is there anything else I can assist with in regards to this matter? I will look to arrange further contact on Thursday 13th August latest to advise on the next steps, .... " I've been feeding back to Ford CRC & the case managers many points which have been made by myself & others - my latest response to them is below..... "Could you please clarify whether the updates due in August will be for SYNC & Maps - or just maps or just SYNC. Also could you clarify the versions to which SYNC and/or maps will be updated to ? As you've outlined in your mail, I'd be very grateful if you could feedback the points I have made in several emails including - a visible plan/schedule for up to date maps & updates to manage customer expectations. I'm sure many tech savvy customers would be prepared to use files if they were to be made available even if the Ford formal update process was lagging behind e.g. see the cyanlabs front end. - on the Ford update web pages - the words don't match Ford actions/promises thus giving customers false expectations & inaccurate information . - the lack of updates & the lack of information/concern from Ford has upset long standing customers. Surely Ford doesn't want to lose customer loyalty ? I wonder how Ford compares with other manufacturers in this area ? Is Ford in danger of receiving 'bad press' & thus loss of market share ? - inaccurate information on out of date maps could cause Health & Safety issues - I have suggested that Ford consider making free traffic updates available as recompense - BUT for me the best news would be that Ford has got its act together & a reliable & timely process for updates is now in place & Ford can publish this."
    2 points
  4. They are for holding a Warning Safety Triangle
    1 point
  5. The zinc Primer is meant to be the best way to go to combat the rust. I done alot of reading up when I had my mk2 and the method you are using should work well.
    1 point
  6. Update- wasnt even my ***** car it was a neighbours! live and learn
    1 point
  7. Update on my issue from last week about the fine for no insurance, caused by my error in providing the reg number. I paid the fine today. When I got the letter in with the original charge, my only two options were to pay it and it goes away, or if I refuse the fine I have to go to court to fight it, and if I lose I can end up with a criminal conviction. I was planning to just explain my mistake and show that I had paid for insurance, but made a genuine error, and hope for some sympathy. However the risk of getting in front of a judge and them just taking the view that whether it was a mistake or not is irrelevant - technically the bike wasn’t insured. If I was to end up with a conviction for it it would be far more painful than paying £150 fine. Costly mistake but the lesser of two evils! I have learned a lesson for sure.
    1 point
  8. Just an update, I have had the car of the road for a few days now, I have the rear axel out and plain to paint it up as well. In regards to the underside of the car I have strip any rust back to the bare metal and any any real bad bits I plan to use some Kurust on that area. I also have a tin of Red Oxide primer with zinc I was going to paint over the bare metal areas then too cost with Hammerite smooth. Then in the top when that's dried well I plan to underseal the entire underside and arches and then wax oil inside the cavities in a months time. I used to know a fella many years ago who restored mini's and used the red oxide on top of any weld repairs on the floors. He has since unfortunately passed away so at the time I didn't question to much about how the work help up years later but from what I did see of older restorations it seems to have help up very well. Anybody here used this type of method? I think I would fell better of I sealed the bare metal with a primer ect instead of just firing on the underseal/oil ect.
    1 point
  9. Are you trying it at home? If so it should work. I downloaded the *pro* version of the app. You keep your finger on the start button and a blue outline starts to run around the outside of the button. One it completes the circle it'll send the message to start the car. I looked into it when i got mine, it will only work if the car has wi-fi access, either via the wi-fi from the house or via the in built modem. I'm too tight to pay for a vodafone contract just for the car so it only works when the car is at the house.
    1 point
  10. Cheers, I have a tool, it makes it way easier. I'll look for stands I think or even ramps as I may give a clean whilst I'm in there. Ive managed the rest of the engine so it would be rude not to.
    1 point
  11. Good to hear it. 2 years ago, I called the police after seeing a very distressed labrador in a small car where the idiot of a driver hadn't even cracked a window! I was seconds away from actually smashing the drivers window myself with some nearby builders rubble when I saw the police car. The woman who eventually emerged from the shopping center was furious at them as I waited to see what happened. They actually used some black magic to open the door activating the alarm! I'm really glad they turned up as I wasn't looking forward to breaking a window (those days are long behind me LOL)
    1 point
  12. Thanks to Typhoon and Mark, both of whom pointed out the obscurely obvious solution to my problem - adjust the Nav voice volume while she's speaking. That works! Obvious, because there is a certain amount of logic in that - obscure, because I couldn't find that vital information anywhere in either the manual that came with the car, or its digital counterpart from the web. That may be because the manual seems to be designed to cover so many different model and option variants that it would be impossible to include everything a driver might want to know. Perhaps Ford should put more effort into making their user manuals less wide-ranging, and more specific to model and option variants. Some hope, I'm sure. Anyway, I am grateful for the information provided. Bravo! I suppose I might have stumbled across that solution by accident one day, but that's unlikely, because I had all but written off using the MFG Navigation system, because what she said had been unintelligible. P.S. Are there any other voices available? - I've not seen any reference to that option in the Menu. I'll admit that when I'm driving I prefer not to be nagged by a woman about where I should be going.
    1 point
  13. Only problem is that with modern tyre compounds ,wear patterns in tread and carcase shape can become permanent after relatively low mileages so that when wheels are moved around changes to roadholding/stability and tyre noise can be noticed . This is probably why some manufacturers don't recommend moving wheels around anymore.
    1 point
  14. I read an article recendtly describing how to set up the phone to control google maps from siri. Haven't tried it yet. https://ios.gadgethacks.com/how-to/use-google-maps-waze-with-siri-instead-apple-maps-0192301/
    1 point
  15. Hence, the 'as said' bit LOL 🤣
    1 point
  16. SUCCESS! Fitted a new fan and controller from the local ECP, who astoundingly had one in stock for my rare car, and it all works perfectly. i also tested the new fan with both the old controllers and it all worked, so the fan motor was the root issue (see the video I posted earlier where the same was true, it’s just that in my case spraying it out with air didn’t sort it....I needed a new one). I have put everything back together including plenty of insulation tape around the loom I had inspected. My wife is especially happy to have aircon in the current hot weather. Feels fantastic to have beaten this gremlin! My Advice for others is: if your aircon is working fine when driving at speed but not at low speed (or parked), the likely culprit is the Radiator cooling fan motor. This is especially true if the fan turns briefly when you turn the car on, then refuses to come on again. I suspect the car was detecting resistance (or not getting the fan speed desired), then shutting down the fan in case continuing its operation might cause a fire. This would be further confirmed if a scan of the car with a workshop grade scanner reveals a P0480 code (cheap scanners won’t see the code). Hopefully this saves someone else a lot of the annoyance i have had!
    1 point
  17. That's the solution, as soon as there a Nav instruction, turn the volume to the desired level it will remain at this level permanently . The issue is timing as it must be done while there is an announcement on going.
    1 point
  18. On my focus when you hear the navigation voice just turn the volume up or down on the fascia panel.
    1 point
  19. Sorry the cluster repair did not fix this. Next, I would look at the BCM it is not uncommon for these to get water damage on the board from a drip from the HVAC
    1 point
  20. Now I know the S-Max is a truly terrible car and the world will be a better place with them all crushed but in case someone else needs to prolong the agony of owning one due to kids in car seats or moving loads of stuff etc here's how I saved mine. Crashdata.co.uk can reflash the airbag module or copy the settings to a spare for £70. You may get lucky with a £20 spare from eBay. Very easy to swap, located below the handbrake. It's a failsafe system is if the warning lights not on it should be good. Cartronix fixed the cluster for £350. Needed a new LCD panel. Cluster took about 10mins to remove. So £400 all in, a fifth the cost of a Ford repair Mark Sent from my Moto G (5) using Tapatalk
    1 point
  21. Further to my post on 13 July, where having taken the tailgate trim off, I could see that the release motor was not moving the Bowden cable enough to spring the lock, I ordered a new release motor from FordParts UK (www.fordpartsuk.com). I have just fitted the new motor - very easy just two bolts and the wiring connector, and it works perfectly.
    1 point




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