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I read the whole of this thread getting worried that the handbrake would not come on or that the car would roll off down a hill never to be seen again...but I have never read such a long thread about a non problem. I can't remember the last time I needed to hold the car to start on a hill, maybe because its a manual diesel you can find the bite point while holding don the foot brake. When I want the hand brake to come on I just apply it, whether an old style ratchet handle or a new style electronic button, but mostly just park it in gear and it holds itself. Went out to my Mk4 yesterday and saw that I have been driving around with auto-hold deactivated, never even noticed and when I switched it on it worked exactly just as it should. Then switched it off again as I decided I don't have any use for it as explained above.

Out with the old, in with the new. So I picked up my new Focus today. Got rid of the old workhorse, Focus 2.0 Zetec S. It had a hard life, 112k miles, gearbox on the way out, rust on the wheel arch getting worse. So decided to move on. I couldn't resist this ST. Im delighted with it. Bring on the next few years of motoring with this. Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk

Nice one. Cracking pics too! 👍🏼

I have domestic LEDs all over my home with an expected life cycle of 50,000 hours. I still seem to replace them at similar intervals to old fashioned tungsten!

That was The Finance Guy who got the Meguiar's kit 😉

It's great to be part of the club

Wanted to say thanks to all of you. Will be contacting both the insurance company and the repair shop hoping to get it fixed asap Thanks alot!

Very nice in the silver and an easy colour to keep clean going by experience 😁

Nice! Look forward to the new thread

I went round and had a look at my mate’s A3 today. My handheld obd scanner didn’t even find a code which is weird! I told my mate I’m not paying £40 to get VAG software until I’ve got an RS6.... He mentioned the brakes were scraping but I reckon that’s just because of the mad corrosion on the discs from it being sat so long. Pads were fine. Pin might have been binding up? I thought the abs light would be a faulty wheel speed sensor, but there’s also a power steering warning light. Weird. Also it didn’t look like there was ANY brake fluid in the reservoir. In general, due to how much of a nightmare it is looking at VAG cars compared to Fords (just because of familiarity probably) I told him to take it to a garage and get it scanned proper. If there is a faulty wheel speed sensor I wouldn’t be keen on doing that job for him anyway so might as well get it booked in.

Baby steps, haha. [emoji1787] Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk

Apparently they should hit the UK in the next day or so. Pretty when quick considering what’s going on in the world! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Tell them to hurry up 😂

Looks cracking mate! I’m rocking a 14 plate pre face lift! It’s an absolute joy to drive and really practical considering! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Hi all, I guess this will be the final update on kiddo, well she was classed as a cat b, so no chance of getting her back on the road, so considering she was parked up, I am uber confident that he was doing more than 30mph. Bought her back, nearly finished stripping her, so theres plenty of the mods are absolutely fine, only lost o/s front wheel, shock, brake line, n/s rear wheel, o/s headlight and fog grill. Well that is the bad news, the good news is that we now have a replacement Allow me to introduce Foster, a highly optioned 2016 titanium x 1.5tdci. So I guess I should start a new thread for the new car. See you all on the thread. Thanks all

I've got a 19 plate ST line X, it has the adaptive LEDs, you'll know you have LEDs just by opening the bonnet and looking to see if there is a silver topped control box bolted to the side of the headlamp housing.

Oh silly me 🙈. You guys got lucky. Want to drive my car. Haven't been driving much due to no places to go to since lockdown. Started looking at some consultancy jobs. Looks a little overwhelming to me but not bad. Good salary in it also

Sync 3.0 to 3.4 update guide. note this is not supported by Ford but is possible https://cyanlabs.net/tutorials/update-ford-sync-3-2-2-3-0-to-version-3-4-all-years-3-4-19200/

Not many updates recently, weather been hit and miss so limited opportunities to play. But booked in for the roof and a couple of other areas to be painted by Robbo in a week or so. Otherwise, sorted out some flaking issues on the rear spoiler. 1 good summer's day to paint in the garden, turned out mint after a flat and polish. ???????

I do like being given this Auto Glym Kit for free, Just been to a small family gathering for my girlfriends mother, Asked girlfriends brother in-law if he had any scratch remover to get some marks off the sisters car, got talking about I've been more into car detailing this year than photography, then he whips out this kit, He gets them with a new Audi and he's been getting new ones for years, he had at least 3 kits never used. Only 2 problems, I'm a brand fan boy and I've been stocking up with Turtle Wax products, and it annoys me it comes with a sponge not a wash mitt (not that I'll use it, but seems odd with a kit worth about £100)

I'm no expert Clive. Not sure what it does. I found out by trial and error. It works though.

There you go @TomsFocus First put two folders on your desktop. One for the original music (I called mine ‘car music’) and the other for the ‘normalised’ music. Copy the music from your card into the ‘car music’ folder. Download ‘Audacity’ it’s free software from https://www.audacityteam.org/ Run the program and click on ‘File’ – Open Navigate to your desktop and the ‘car music’ folder and click on the first piece of music. Once the file has opened hit Control A which will select the music. Along the top of the window you will see ‘Effect’ click on that and you will get a drop down menu, Click on ‘Normalise’ Set the Normalise maximum amplitude to -2 (minus two) and make sure there is a tick against it. Also put a tick against ‘Remove DC offset. Click OK. Click on File – Export – Export as MP3 Click on Save Click on OK Save in the ‘car music’ folder. Click on File – Close – No Go to the next piece of music and repeat the process. The software will save the two folders and will always look to open in ‘car music’ and save to ‘normalised’ music It’s a lot quicker to do than it is to explain it. I did 100 files this afternoon.

Yeah I use ddg too. Blocks all the trackers.

Just seen this thread even though it's as old as a Model T! I have posted this before, but for anyone that stumbled on here via a google search, if you own a vintage Mk2 (2005) with no fancy added extras, you can still smarten her up with some DRLs. I installed LEDs on the front 'fog light' grills, with a built in 'halo'. They come on automatically with my ignition, and I also have the facility to switch either the central LED or halo off independently (because I can LOL)

I experimented a lot with MK3/MK3.5 instrument clusters and the different MK3/MK3.5 software versions. The MK3 and MK3.5 Level 3 (full color) instrument clusters are technically 100% identical. The only differences are the hardware and software version numbers. Because of the different hardware version number it is not possible to update the MK3 instrument cluster to MK3.5 software using the Ford IDS or FDRS diagnostic systems. The only way to load the correct MK3.5 software files (the MK3.5 software consists of 3 different software files) onto an MK3 instrument cluster is by selecting the correct software files manually. There are only a few diagnostic systems that are capable to do this. The best / most reliable ways to do this are currently the Russian UCDS diagnostic system or the (highly experimental) Forscan Beta Test version 2.4.0 in combination with a Ford VCM2 diagnostic interface. It is not recommended to update the instrument cluster software using the FoCCCus software in combination with an ELM327 interface. Updating the software of a Level 3 instrument cluster using the FoCCCus software and a high quality ELM327 interface takes a very long time. At the maximum supported Baudrate of 500.000 Kbps the update procedure takes approximately between 12 and 16 Hours. I found this method only to be successful when performed on the bench outside the vehicle. When installing MK3.5 instrument cluster software onto an MK3 instrument cluster the parking sensors sound will no longer work. On vehicles with Active Park Assist both the visual and sound will no longer work during automatic parking. This can only be solved by upgrading to the MK3.5 PAM module (in case of Active Park Assist this also requires 2 additional parking sensors). Next to this the interior/instrument backlight dimming function will no longer work correctly if the instrument cluster is not configured correctly. Also be aware that most of the additional MK3.5 instrument cluster settings will not work on a Focus MK3. After a few weeks I decided to go back to the latest version of the MK3 instrument cluster software. I discovered that I barely used the digital speedometer and dual trip computer. It was definitely not worth the loss of parking sensors sound and the loss of both the visual and sound of the Active Park Assist system.

I don't like having no broadband connection from around 10am. Ended up watching Homes Under The Hammer AND Bargain Hunt... Now it's 7.30pm, still not connected and I'm having to ***** again without any social media or Spotify. (Posting this via 4g at 1p per MB with data saver switched on lol). Down detector shows many other people having the same issue so all we can do is wait. Just got to hope it's back on by tomorrow! (Edit...ok, who's going to be offended by the word p00p!?)