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If it were me (and I've been in that position), I would seek out the services of a local independent auto locksmith who will have the appropriate equipment to supply and program a working key fob. It will cost more than buying an AliExpress one, but at least you know it will work and be stress free. I would budget about €80 or so...

I don't know the answer to your question but if you just had an advisory for light misting then I personally would not change it unless it obviously was not doing its job. I had light misting on one of mine, I cleaned it and it has not shown any signs of leaking since and that was a long time ago.

God loves a trier 👍 but even he would question your life choices 🤣

Yes, do yourself a favour and forget about the 'feature'. Ford only introduced it to get through some tighter emissions certification. Nothing more than a gimmick, and destroying the planet by getting folk to throw out perfectly serviceable batteries in the vain hope of getting it to work. Other opinions are available...

They are simply a guide to show where the slot is in the dark, activated when no CD inserted, and your headlights are on...

While out for a walk this morning, I was passed by an Audi RS 3 at the point he was changing down with a cacophony of pops, fa*rts and bangs. I suspected naughty remap and pipe, but the thing I liked was the registration: R53YOB! Very appropriate!😀

I personally strongly disagree on that point, but I think individuals are entitled to their own views, unless of course you live in Scotland 🤣

That's why I knew the answer 🤣

They indicate whether side 1 or side 2 of the CD is playing.

At 2014 you are due a belt change anyway

Hopefully, after 13 years, the coolant level has remained constant

What we need is a search system that actually works and has some decent filters. Do we know anyone on the forum that knows about IT stuff ? 😉

Just wanna say thanks to all those that helped and especially TomsFocus with the diagram! Would have been lost without that. I will remain a member of this forums as its bl**dy brilliant with people who know what they are talking about!!!. This is why you do not need social media and old skool proper forums matter! Keep up the good work. I just drove to my dentist in the next city. Main roads 50+ felt the bonnet when I arrived. Cold! Drove back opened hood touched the cloth (no jokes about touching cloth 💩💩💩💩 but probably went through that with the fire!!! 🤣😂🤣😂😕) and the cloth was warm to the touch. Couldnt be happier... Again really appreciate your help and above all your patience! ❤️ Samantha

Thanks. Yes, that should be the electro-hydraulic system. There is a module and a few sensors in the pump assy, so it should flag fault codes if there are any electrical issues with it. They may only be picked up using Ford level diagnostics though. I would recommend a fault code check using Forscan first. The next cheapest & easiest test you can do is checking the steering angle sensor via live diagnostics. Very simple sensor, it should be 0 with the wheel at the top, and +/-90 degress with the the wheel quarter turned for example. Assuming that's fine, I'd look at the fluid in the reservoir. See if it's the wrong colour or if there's obvious contamination in it. If the fluid looks ok, I'd probably try a replacement pump first. Only cost around £60 for a good used part on ebay and easy to change. If it still doesn't work, then you're only really left with the rack. But as that's a major job, I'd try the other things first.

update! FIXED by using best part of a whole tube of TigerSeal around all the panel joins on the rear driver side, boot mounting points and all the way along underneath the plastic roof runner. Also took the bumper off and redone the vent seals aswell for good measure. Its been almost two weeks and the carpet is still bone dry. Thank Fk!

**UPADTE** Knocking noise from the rear resolved by replacing the rear droplinks! They looked very crusty and I thought would be difficult to remove but actually turned out ok. No need for a hacksaw or nut splitters. The internal hex held up and was able to counterhold to remove the nuts. Thanks for the help!

when it happens again . . . .

Sadly, you clearly do not understand the issue. It doesn't 'right' itself. The solder that was used was lead free (to save the planet), which lasts for some years but then deteriorates and causes numerous electrical issues. Checking the solder by eye is useless as you'll need strong magnification to see the micro cracks. The ONLY cure is to remove the errant solder and replace with proper leaded solder. The 'banging' may get you home, but it's certainly not a fix!

You need to change your mindset. Getting '200 miles' is a useless bit of info. (As you have little idea of how much fuel you needed to achieve that) The only true measurement is MPG. I always brim my tank, set my odometer to zero, then do the same again next trip to the garage. This gives you an accurate ongoing statistic of what mileage you get...

There is a company that specialises in roof repair in Chester called Hoodtech run by a young guy called Charlie. All he does is soft tops and hard tops, manual and electric. Knows a lot about the Focus CC roof. https://hoodtech.co.uk/

I see what you did there 😉🤣

Just a quick ending to the thread, the fixings on Ebay at £3.25 are a perfect fit! No brainer at 32p/each as opposed to 'genuine' Ford at £5/each 🤣

I note it says this in that article: The engine oil in this particular engine had not been changed regularly and possibly not even been the correct specification oil.

By the time it shows symptoms, it's generally too late. That's why so many end up failing altogether. As it's 10 years old and very low mileage, I'd either get the belts done asap, or sell it and buy something without a wetbelt. The cost of wetbelt changes make these cars unviable for low mileage drivers.

Search Ebay for "Focus/C-Max Instrument cluster repair", remove cluster and send it off. Don't attempt to fit a replacement cluster, it's more hassle than it's worth. Don't waste your money taking it to a garage, just send the cluster off and it will be OK

Spam. Blocked.

Just be aware reflowing defective solder joints may last a little while but the leadfree solder used originally fails with age. the solder should be removed and replaced with conventional solder for a lasting repair.

This isn't the sort of thing you'll find aftermarket. The options are: Buy new from a Ford dealer. (Estimate £250+) Buy used from a breakers yard. (Must be plenty of Mk3's being scrapped by now) Have a hydraulic pipe shop make one up from scratch using your old one as a template.

With respect, they're all aware of the issue. What did you expect? An apology? Ain't gonna happen, that would automatically leave them legally wide open... They're a public company responsible to their shareholders, not a charity. Their aim is to make as much money as they possibly can. Not to offer 'special' discounts to customers... I've been in business for 40+ years, there's a line from offering customer service, and making a profit. Often customers expectations simply don't match the company they are dealing with - if that's the case, move on.

Looks like this.

My bad... I meant well 😁

Sometimes when streaming an ITVx show, I find you're locked into watching ads as it doesn't allow you to FF them 😕

You're just not giving them a fair chance. Where do you think the weasels from the Post Office work now ? 🤣

Just a suggestion, remove this clown, nobody has a good word to say about the service he provides.

Well I tried to get mine done every 5 years but the department of transport said no 🤣

Cheers Tom I'll keep that in mind when deciding, I have heard the 1.0 ecoboost has lots of issues so want to stay clear of that, not sure if any of the other petrol models are better. I am also looking at hyundai i30 so will compare everything and make a decision. (Last 4 cars have been ford's so probably will still be a ford 🤣)

Are you crazy ? Unless you are buying a Focus Mk4 Ecoboost 1.0 don't even think about it. No, and No. Just try using the forum search facility and looking at "Ecoboost" that should give you enough to read for at least 10 years.

There is in effect 3 parts to a key with remote functions. The metal key blade The remote locking/unlocking buttons (requires a small battery to work) The PATS immobiliser chip (no power required). The working key that you are using at the moment will have embedded in the plastic a transponder chip. If you purchase a remote style key with buttons then the metal key blade will require cutting which should not be too much of an issue. Using FORScan then it will be possible to programme the operation of the remote function for the lock/unlock of the doors. The problem arises with the need to programme the car to recognise the new PATS chip. Firstly it is common for keyfobs supplied from Aliexpress, eBay, Amazon to not include the immobiliser security chip. This must be purchased separately and fitted inside of the new key. The second problem is that the ability to programme the car for the new key using FORScan dose not work for any Ford built 2013 onwards. For older models it may still be possible.

I rarely use the forum search function as it's so poor. I have had success though in finding forum posts by simply using Google, and stipulating the FOC...

Hi, I've just joined the forum in anticipation of collecting a used Fiesta tomorrow. I've been a serial Ford used car owner since my late teens. I started by buying a dodgy Mk1 Escort Mexico replica, I wrote it off after a few weeks, stripped it, bought a used bodyshell and rebuilt it with the parts I could salvage while using proper sized brakes etc. this time round. I had that car for years until rust got the better of it. Next was a Mk2 Escort RS2000 Custom 'V' reg with Fishnet Recaro seats. It was a lovely car but it got stolen after 3 weeks! I couldn't bring myself to buy another RS2000 when I only saw lesser examples for sale, especially as their asking prices far outstripped the money I got from my insurance settlement. Not being inclined to get a FWD Escort, I next bought a Sierra XR4i. I had that car a number of years before it got stolen too, cue a visit from an insurance investigator. He was happy to conclude that I am not a serial fraudster and this time the pay out went on another Sierra, an XR4×4i. My first daughter came home from the maternity hospital in that car. By the time daughter number two arrived, The Sierra was traded against a Mk1 Mondeo V6 Ghia X, all very civilised with full leather upholstery and a CD player as well as a cassette player! By this time the Ford Cougar had been recently launched and the Mondeo was traded against an ex-Ford company registered V6 Cougar X with manual transmission. I drove many miles South, to Archer's of Ashby, to collect the car with the exact spec I was after. Archers had a number of ex-Ford Cougars to choose from and I remember seeing four or five Racing Pumas in their yard at the time too; one of which was taken for a test drive by a young couple while I was there. The fellow who was driving it came back grinning like a maniac and couldn't wait to sign up for it. I still have my Cougar, it will have been with me for 22 years next month. Unfortunately it failed its MOT last November with corrosion of the rear sub-frame being the primary culprit. My better half was never comfortable driving it and is looking forward to the Fiesta as the sensible alternative to her somewhat larger car. I talked her into her car and it is only fair that I let her talk me into mine. I look forward to gaining useful knowledge here and trust the Fiesta will be well behaved! Best regards.

LOUDER!!!

20 plate should be a Mk 4 so revised (chain cam) engine. Zetec is just a model name and has been for many years now. Afaik the only (very tenuous) connection with Lancia was they had a trademark on the name "Zeta", which Ford had to stop using hence "Zetec". The 3 pot ecoboosts are a completely different engine family.

It has a timing chain. All mk4 do as has been repeated many times on this forum. However it does have a wet oil pump belt which is due at the same interval and is the same difficulty to change as the wet belt.

Yes, I just have, and they said they could do it! Thank you!

There's a new series on BBC2 about the latest dig at Pompeii. Two episodes down but I'm sure you can get them on iPlayer. Genuinely amazing to see the similarities with today's world from 2000 years ago. Probably the only genuine snapshot of history in the world.

OK have tried my best it was very fiddly to do but what do you think here is the result?!!! 🤐🤨😐🤞

I am Lochie, old, and I fix cars as a hobby. I have a 2001 Ford Laser KQ here in Australia, not sure of the model name in the UK. It is basically a sound car, 151000KM. The paint clear coat had peeled (common in Australia) on the roof so sprayed it with white acrylic. Now cooler and it looks better.

Hi Kay, The 3 cylinder petrol engines in the Focus Mk 4 - both 1.0 and 1.5 - are of revised design using a chain cam drive rather than the "wet" timing belt of earlier versions which no doubt you have read about, so should be of similar reliability. These engines still have a belt driven oil pump and the belt requires changing at 150,000 miles or 10 years whichever comes first. This is an expensive job. Several owners on here have, like John, reported a good experience with this engine in the Mk 4 Focus. The engine is used in 200ps form in the Fiesta ST and I have seen no particular issues on ST forums, even on cars with 235 or 260bhp upgrades. One key thing is to ensure any prospective purchase has a full verifiable service history. Don't know what car you have now, but as John mentions, battery issues are common on most modern cars, not just Ford (you'll find lots of threads on here about that!😀).

Quite understandable. Far better not to get it changed now and just wait until it fails and then spend £6000 on a new engine in a few months time. 🤔

I can't recommend any specifically unfortunately. I'd just Google 'Reconditioned 2.0 TDCI engine' and see what comes up. There are plenty of used ones on ebay around £500-£750. That's the way I'd go personally. You will need to check your engine code first. (It's 4 digits on the logbook) I'd expect a reconditioned engine to be £1500+. If you have a trusted garage, they probably have regular contact with a local engine supplier.