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Focus Mk3 2011 - heater pipe leak

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I have a 2011 1.6 Focus. There is a leak from the joint in one of the heater pipes as it goes along the left side of the driver's footwell into the engine compartment. It turns out the O ring at this joint is prone to failure and Ford can no longer replace it. Instead it appears they have changed the heater matrix so that a whole new matrix is required with pipes that don't have the joint. I imagine this is because of repeated failures of the O ring.

Has anyone else had this problem? If so how did Ford deal with it? Is there an alternative source of the O rings.

Many thanks

  • 1 year later...


  • Replies 61
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  • heaterclps
    heaterclps

    I have just done the fix as per "Fusemans" photos on a 2012 cmax. Saved £800 for a new heater matrix from ford... 22 MM heater hosed needed. I managed to get hold of a fairly flexible heater hose

  • Here's a pic of the fix - hope it helps someone else

  • Dadofjoanna
    Dadofjoanna

    My daughter too had this problem. Her local Ford dealer quoted £1184 + £50 diagnosis. After seeing this article we had the car transported to Parents town - Kenilworth, and the local (Excellent) Crack

Posted Images

Yep! I have this problem as of Sunday took it to a garage and was told the same, they are trying to replace the pipe with a flexi pipe, but Ford have quoted £1000 for the new heater matrix install.... 2011 ford focus as well 

  • Author

Here's a pic of the fix - hope it helps someone else

IMG_5634.JPG

  • 1 month later...

Hi, did the fix work?  Mine also needs doing, and I can feel the water coming out through the plastic join in the lower pipe.

Car is a 2013 so of course no warranty.

Thanks!

  • 4 weeks later...

How did you get the rubber pipes over the alluminium ones? 

  • 2 months later...
On 3/28/2017 at 9:21 PM, fuseman said:

Here's a pic of the fix - hope it helps someone else

IMG_5634.JPG

Hi

 

I realise this is an old post but any idea what diameter hosing you used?

 

After buying 6 genuine Ford o rings and 4 Ford genuine plastic clips i am now going to perform this fix but could do with understanding what size hose was used. Not sure whether to go with a 32mm diameter as i believe the 2 ends of each pipe are raised

  • 2 months later...

ok its 24th oct 2017 and i have just had this happen to my focus ecoboost took it to lookers ford sheffield and they fixed it for 140 quid two new clamps and o rings after first garage i went to told me i needed a new matrix installed for 900

  • 2 months later...

Has the above ‘ mod ‘ held up and kept the leak at bay fuseman?

Have got the same issue with our 2011 1.6 Ecoboost and thinking this is going to be better than faffing about with new clips and O rings etc especially as I doubt there is enough room to pull the pipes apart to fit the new rings only to find that it may not be a long term solution.

Ok so an update 😀

Managed to source new clips and O rings from Ford today and went down the route of just replacing on a like for like basis. 

Found the relevant hoses under the bonnet and put some pipe cramps on to minimise loss of coolant then just undid the old clips,pulled the alloy pipes apart and removed old O rings. There was a slight tear in one of the O rings which I guess over time caused the leak.

Then it was a case of carefully installing the new O rings to the heater matrix side of the alloy pipes,wiping a small amount of lubricant ( I used car shampoo ) to the male end of the matrix pipes and pushing back togetherans installing the new clips. Remove pipe clamps from engine Bay Area,check levels and start engine to check that the leak has gone!  Ta da,all good,so let’s see how long it lasts!

The part numbers are as follows:

Clips 1454337

O rings 1342708

Parts cost circa £14

 

 

  • 1 month later...

My daughter too had this problem. Her local Ford dealer quoted £1184 + £50 diagnosis. After seeing this article we had the car transported to Parents town - Kenilworth, and the local (Excellent) Crackley garage repaired for £115 as per this article. They did also quote £700 for the replacement matrix but its the joints that had failed.

Great fix.

  • 2 months later...

Flatfour would there be enough room to move the pipes and fit rubber hose like in the picture above ?

  • 2 weeks later...
On 28/03/2017 at 9:21 PM, fuseman said:

Here's a pic of the fix - hope it helps someone else

IMG_5634.JPG

How easy was this to do i have same issue did you drain all coolant was there enough movement to push hoses on

On 30/12/2017 at 8:35 PM, Flatfour said:

Ok so an update 😀

Managed to source new clips and O rings from Ford today and went down the route of just replacing on a like for like basis. 

Found the relevant hoses under the bonnet and put some pipe cramps on to minimise loss of coolant then just undid the old clips,pulled the alloy pipes apart and removed old O rings. There was a slight tear in one of the O rings which I guess over time caused the leak.

Then it was a case of carefully installing the new O rings to the heater matrix side of the alloy pipes,wiping a small amount of lubricant ( I used car shampoo ) to the male end of the matrix pipes and pushing back togetherans installing the new clips. Remove pipe clamps from engine Bay Area,check levels and start engine to check that the leak has gone!  Ta da,all good,so let’s see how long it lasts!

The part numbers are as follows:

Clips 1454337

O rings 1342708

Parts cost circa £14

 

 

Arent these the part numbers for the mk2? As i cant find them on ford system for mk3

  • 5 weeks later...

A huge Thank you to Joanna.

I too had the same problem. The garage I normally use couldn`t do this repair & I was horrified at a potential dealership repair of £1100 plus for a new heater matrix.   

On seeing this post, I contacted Crackley Garage, Kenilworth, who did the same repair  as mentioned in Joanna`s post for £151 .

James was polite & knowledgeable , repairing my car the day after I inquired. 

For any Warwickshire & Midland Folk, I can`t recommend this Garage highly enough. 

It`s been 2 weeks now, some fair mileage done & the repair is sound. 

I will be returning to Crackley Garage  in the future for my servicing,MOT & any repairs needed.

I have no previous connection to the garage,  am just a delighted customer.  ( Focus Estate 2011 1.6 petrol )

Edited by K .B.
My original was confusing

  • 5 months later...
On 12/30/2017 at 8:35 PM, Flatfour said:

Ok so an update 😀

Managed to source new clips and O rings from Ford today and went down the route of just replacing on a like for like basis. 

Found the relevant hoses under the bonnet and put some pipe cramps on to minimise loss of coolant then just undid the old clips,pulled the alloy pipes apart and removed old O rings. There was a slight tear in one of the O rings which I guess over time caused the leak.

Then it was a case of carefully installing the new O rings to the heater matrix side of the alloy pipes,wiping a small amount of lubricant ( I used car shampoo ) to the male end of the matrix pipes and pushing back togetherans installing the new clips. Remove pipe clamps from engine Bay Area,check levels and start engine to check that the leak has gone!  Ta da,all good,so let’s see how long it lasts!

The part numbers are as follows:

Clips 1454337

O rings 1342708

Parts cost circa £14

 

 

I’ve got the same problem on the same car. Did the clips work?

 

ps thank you for the post and part numbers. 

  • 4 months later...

I have just done the fix as per "Fusemans" photos on a 2012 cmax. Saved £800 for a new heater matrix from ford...

22 MM heater hosed needed. I managed to get hold of a fairly flexible heater hose.I also put the hose in hot water for 5 mins  to make it softer and easier to fit.

Don't even think of using 19 mm hose too small to get over the tube at the heater matrix end.

I used the hose clamps to block off the heater hose in the engine bay. Saved draining and then bleeding the cooling system.

I cut the heater hose into 2 x  50mm pieces.

Top one first.Push the heater hose onto the pipes coming from the engine.Put two hose clamps on the rubber hose and tighten one up so you can use the aluminum pipe to push the heater hose over the heater matrix. Adjust the heater hose into the right position. Don't tighten the clamps yet.

For the bottom pipe , put one clamp over the heater matrix end  and leave it there.Push the heater hose on to the pipe from the engine and tighten the clamp enough to hold the heater hose in place while pushing it over the heater matrix tube.

Get all the heater hoses sitting  properly and tight the clamps.

There is enough flex in the pipes to makes this a reasonable easy job.It was easier than I thought it would be.

I did try the this with new ford clamps and o rings and the clamps broke when fitting them.

  • 1 month later...

Hi guys, I've got a focus 12 plate (not sure if its mk2 or 3) having the same problem for some months now, I did mess with it a little, tried passing the pipes a little and it seems to have stopped (or just leaking slowly) the leg space of the driver side does not seem to be any longer wet. however, i would still like to replace the rings and clamp.

 

Any one have a video on how to get the the rings, which part of the dash do i have to take out.

 

and would anyone know where i get right clips?

 

Thanks

  • 1 month later...

I have just attempted this on my Mk3. I can't get the o-ring inside the female part of the pipe. The o-ring seems too big? It is also odd that when I took the pipe off, there wasn't an old o-ring?

Happy to pay someone to come and fit this ****** thing!

Right, I used my phone on reverse camera and I found an old o-ring sat inside the female part. I now have a new o-ring in place and a new clamp on it!!

I'm not sure why, but the clamp is much tighter one way around than the other. If I go with the looser way, the clamp clip sits nice and flush. If I sit it on the tighter way around the clip is not flush. Any ideas? I prefer the tight way, but the fact the clip isn't flush slightly concerns me.

 

  • 2 weeks later...

We have just had the same problem tried o rings and clips very tight squeeze wasn’t happy so in the end used the over pipe method with hose clips all working great 

  • 3 weeks later...
I have just done the fix as per "Fusemans" photos on a 2012 cmax. Saved £800 for a new heater matrix from ford...
22 MM heater hosed needed. I managed to get hold of a fairly flexible heater hose.I also put the hose in hot water for 5 mins  to make it softer and easier to fit.
Don't even think of using 19 mm hose too small to get over the tube at the heater matrix end.
I used the hose clamps to block off the heater hose in the engine bay. Saved draining and then bleeding the cooling system.
I cut the heater hose into 2 x  50mm pieces.
Top one first.Push the heater hose onto the pipes coming from the engine.Put two hose clamps on the rubber hose and tighten one up so you can use the aluminum pipe to push the heater hose over the heater matrix. Adjust the heater hose into the right position. Don't tighten the clamps yet.
For the bottom pipe , put one clamp over the heater matrix end  and leave it there.Push the heater hose on to the pipe from the engine and tighten the clamp enough to hold the heater hose in place while pushing it over the heater matrix tube.
Get all the heater hoses sitting  properly and tight the clamps.
There is enough flex in the pipes to makes this a reasonable easy job.It was easier than I thought it would be.
I did try the this with new ford clamps and o rings and the clamps broke when fitting them.
Yeah i bought 19mm lol it was nightmare to get them on did it in the end but 22mm is the way forward.

Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk

  • 1 month later...

I recon I could do the job if I could get the damn side panel off first. Any advise or how to links would be appreciated.

 

On 4/1/2019 at 9:59 PM, heaterclps said:

I have just done the fix as per "Fusemans" photos on a 2012 cmax. Saved £800 for a new heater matrix from ford...

22 MM heater hosed needed. I managed to get hold of a fairly flexible heater hose.I also put the hose in hot water for 5 mins  to make it softer and easier to fit.

Don't even think of using 19 mm hose too small to get over the tube at the heater matrix end.

I used the hose clamps to block off the heater hose in the engine bay. Saved draining and then bleeding the cooling system.

I cut the heater hose into 2 x  50mm pieces.

Top one first.Push the heater hose onto the pipes coming from the engine.Put two hose clamps on the rubber hose and tighten one up so you can use the aluminum pipe to push the heater hose over the heater matrix. Adjust the heater hose into the right position. Don't tighten the clamps yet.

For the bottom pipe , put one clamp over the heater matrix end  and leave it there.Push the heater hose on to the pipe from the engine and tighten the clamp enough to hold the heater hose in place while pushing it over the heater matrix tube.

Get all the heater hoses sitting  properly and tight the clamps.

There is enough flex in the pipes to makes this a reasonable easy job.It was easier than I thought it would be.

I did try the this with new ford clamps and o rings and the clamps broke when fitting them.

 

Where all these people had a water leak ,I had boiling water spray on my foot while driving badly scalded my foot. 2005 Climate. Why is there access through the footwell from these pipes.

Got the same problem and a wet carpet got the side panel off and both are leaking, called Ford and they told me £1250 to sort out and a new heater... Not paying that lol has the rubber hose over the pile with jubilee clamps worked??? 

  • 2 weeks later...

I think this could be simpler. I removed the foam surrounding air con pipes & heater pipes in engine bay. I then pushed out   the plastic spacer between the air con & heater pipes towards footwell. This gives you room to withdraw engineside pipes into footwell and remove. With the extra space I then fed two pieces of 19mm hose through engine bulk head to the matrix pipes and secured with jubilee clips.In the engine bay I connected the 19mm hoses to the 21mm heater hoses using hose reducers, slicing off the two Ford plastic black & grey connectors. Secured them with jubilee clips. All done. Hope this Helps  (2005 Focus Climate).

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