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#1 Lenny

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Posted 20 April 2013 - 06:48 PM

Hi all,
I 100% recommend if fitting an EGR Blanking plate; that you fit a stainless steel one,
Alluminum plates break through over time with terrible results.

Stainless steel blanking plates are top job a fit and forget item.
Here is a reliable supplier of stainless steel laser cut egr blanking plates.
http://www.ebay.ie/i...S-/170912771190

This guide is now available to download in pdf format making it eaier to print or share,
See link to download:
http://www.fordowner...dci-engine-pdf/

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Tools Required:
16mm Socket
5/16 Socket
8mm Socket
13/32 Socket (only if engine cover fitted)
T30 Torx screw driver
T20 Torx screw driver

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Time to fit : 02:15 from start to finish, perhaps quicker if you were not stopping to take pictures or search for the required tools since you guys now have a list lol

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The next step is extremly difficult if you don't know how,
But its very simple once you know how; and you will know how to
After you watch this short video from dodge, all wiper arms remove the same way and this dodge wiper removal video video explains it best.

. http://m.youtube.com...?&desktop_uri=/

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Clips removal using flat screwdriver to slide from panel.

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Once unclipped;
Lift the panel free from place and store in a safe place until returning to the car.

Next step is to remove the panel beneath

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also remove the brake fluid resivour from this panel and ensure to place it in an upright position in the engine bay until returning to the panel.

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Store all screws in a cup and place it somewhere safe until returning to the car.

When screws are removed from the panel;
Lift upwards on the front and gently pull backwards to release from the clips that grip it at the rear:

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when removed:
Store in a safe place until replacing on the car

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Now all of these panels are removed, you can gain comfortable access to the rear of the engine,

Your next question may be "where is the EGR Valve located?"

Here are 3 images taken from the front engine bay and leading you to the rear right side of the 1.6TDCi / 1.6HDi engine where the EGR valve joins to the block.

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This round headed barcoded electonic valve is THE EGR!!

This cylinder in the image below is the egr valve cooler,
Helps to cool the exhaust gases that are being sent to the valve for re-entry to the combustion chamber.

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Now to fit the EGR blanking plate;
You first need to loosten the nut on the EGR Cooler tank

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Followed by loosening the two extreemly long EGR Valve bolts.

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Once the nut on the "EGR Cooler"
And
The 2 bolts on the "EGR Valve" have been made loose you can gently pull the EGR Valve from the engine block,
This is a case of trial pulling
Followed by further loosening of the nut/bolts until you have enough space to slide in the plate.

See in the image below this text:
The gap beginning to appear when gently pulling on the EGR valve after loosening

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Their is a gasket seal on between the engine block and egr valve flange,
I kept the gasket on the engine block side; when inserting the blanking plate,

So the gasket now seals the engine block to the egr blanking plate,
This is best for a good seal.

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Now to slide in the blanking plate from the right side of the engine
In to the left.

Very easy,
Just hook on to the top bolt
And
Let the blanking plate swing down; it will hook in to the lower bolt itself.

Just push firmly to the left to ensure it is centre in the valve,
Also ensure the gasket seal is between the engine block and the blanking plate.

Prior to tightening the 2 bolts on the EGR valve back up
Followed by the nut on the egr cooler.

Here is the blanking plate fitted:

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Now to replace the panels

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Ensure the seals are free from dirt
Also check the top panel under the windscreen,
It has a C shaped end that fits the bottom of the windscreen in to the panel for a tight seal.

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..
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All back togeather
You will notice boost comes a lot quicker and increased torque lower down in the rev range,
Exhaust noise is a little louder (just a little)
Engine idle is quieter
Exhaust smoke doesn't exist
Your induction system now takes in clean air only
No carbon in your induction
Less engine oil contamination

All of the above are from my personal experience since fitting,

Other things such as increased MPG have yet to be saw but I'll keep you all updated.
Great surprise with the reduced lag in 1st and 2nd Gear though.

Well worth every penny and more!

By far the best modification on the car to date.

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#2 Lenny

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Posted 20 April 2013 - 07:29 PM

This guide should be the same for fiesta owners with 1.4TDCi or 1.6TDCi engine.

#3 Bladerunner

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Posted 21 April 2013 - 07:30 PM

Hi Lenny, very good staged info on fitting the plate.

Not looking good on changing the Fiesta now as there may be work issues looming, never mind its a great car but lacking in low down grunt.

It stands to reason that any engine that re-breathes its own products of combustion cannot run very well.

Ok, when you fitted the plate did you not have to alter or have altered any electrics such as sensors -lambda, mapping etc.

What happens to the egr valve when you disconnect it , does it have to stay in place or did you remove it.

Will it pass the mot test with this done or do you have to temporarily replace fro the test?

I have the 95 bhp in my Fiesta, has yours got a variable vane turbo or is it the same as my set up but mapped different.

Lots of questions Lenny but I am sure you have researched all of this.

Cheers

Martin.



#4 salsheikh

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Posted 21 April 2013 - 07:38 PM

nice comprehensive guide Lenny  - you are a legend!



#5 Lenny

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Posted 21 April 2013 - 08:50 PM

Hi Lenny, very good staged info on fitting the plate.
Not looking good on changing the Fiesta now as there may be work issues looming, never mind its a great car but lacking in low down grunt.
It stands to reason that any engine that re-breathes its own products of combustion cannot run very well.
Ok, when you fitted the plate did you not have to alter or have altered any electrics such as sensors -lambda, mapping etc.
What happens to the egr valve when you disconnect it , does it have to stay in place or did you remove it.
Will it pass the mot test with this done or do you have to temporarily replace fro the test?
I have the 95 bhp in my Fiesta, has yours got a variable vane turbo or is it the same as my set up but mapped different.
Lots of questions Lenny but I am sure you have researched all of this.
Cheers
Martin.

Hi Martin,
I have the exact same engine and turbo in my focus as you do in your fiesta,
My focus was 90bhp but I've fitted a few things such as a 2.5" dpf back exhaust, Green Induction filter and remapped to 125bhp :)

The EGR stayes in place and everything functions as normal,
The EGR valve still opens and closes via the ecu.

But when it opens; nothing happens because the plate blocks the flow,
Resulting in clean uncontaminated air flowing in to the combustion.

The emissions will be lower now since the combustion only burns once; gases will be more diluted with oxygen prior to exiting the exhaust,

Absolutly no error on screen,
And if error should appear it can easily be cleared using any elm327 self diagnostic tool from ebay.

Low end torque is greatly improved, even when overtaking you feel an instant smooth flow rather than sinking the boot and waiting for the rush to come.

All parts stay in place on the car,
The plate fits in to the existing set up and will help keep your oil cleaner for longer aswell as help prevent turbo failure and egr failure.
Do not fit an alloy plate as they burn through.
Purchase a stainless steel plate as linked above, less than 5 pounds really gives a lot in return,
I was shocked to feel a low end power increase from this simple modification alone which I fitted mainly to help reduce the risk of turbo failure caused by carbon build up in the oil feed pipe.

For maximum low end torque without remapping,
I recommend blanking the EGR and fitting a direct replacement induction filter from either Green Cotton or K&N
See my Guide here for fitting a Green Cotton Induction Filter aswell as Discount Code :
http://www.fordowner...fitting-guide/"

#6 Bladerunner

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Posted 21 April 2013 - 09:11 PM

Hi Lenny, thanks for the prompt reply.

I have followed your link to ebay and ordered a blanking plate.

Ok then, it looks as though I ought to revert to my initial purchase plan and make the Fiesta a keeper.

It makes perfect sense to stop the crud going back into the engine, valves etc as soon as possible, its now done 26,600 mls - bought with 8,500 last May.

I have been thinking of the option to re-map or fit a tuning box from TDi tuning.

Never done this before, our Volvo is standard but has plenty of go, previous Skoda Octavia was the same.

Of couse the same cannot be said for the Fiesta.

I have already suffered fuel in oil warning light (flushed and new oil).

So I will have to get it sorted asap.

What company did your re-map, have they places over here as it were.

Thanks

Martin.



#7 Lenny

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Posted 21 April 2013 - 09:43 PM

Hi Lenny,
What company did your re-map, have they places over here as it were.
Thanks
Martin.

Hi mate,
The EGR blanking will help prolong the life of your engine,
The fuel in oil light is usually activated by the DPF regeneration,
It cleans itself using fuel,oil and in some early models eloys fluid.
It then dumps it in to the oil and alerts you "ow em theirs fuel in the oil"
So ford then change the oil which removes the carbon etc.

Long distance driving can help reduce the chance of the DPF regenerating itself,
If driven until the engine is hot,
Once hot take it on the motorway at 80mph in 4th gear for 5 minutes
This will increase the exhaust temperature and help the dpf to clear pasively instead of it going through what's called "forced regeneration"

Anyways fitting the blanking plate will increase back pressure too,
So the pressure blowing through your dpf will slightly increase helping to pasively clear it too.

I got the car remapped at souhan exhausts in trim co.meath, they are a family run business so only the one place they own since 1967 or somthing, I bought the exhaust from piper in essex and had it shipped over, souhan's specialise in custom exhaust fabrication so I figured they would be the best guys to have fit the exhaust in the event in needed welding etc.
They offered a remap service where they scan the ECU file,
Then email the file to a company in Germaney,
They reconfigure the file,
And email it back to souhan's who upload it to the car,
The standard remap give it 115hp 268Nm Torque.
He said in respect of the 2.5" exhaust and induction it would be 125bhp 297Nm Torque.
I've had it done since july last year and up to last month when I fitted 18's I was getting 68mpg after remap.

#8 b1g_dav3

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Posted 21 April 2013 - 09:56 PM

Does it throw any fault codes at all on the Fiesta's?



#9 Lenny

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Posted 21 April 2013 - 10:18 PM

Does it throw any fault codes at all on the Fiesta's?

As far as I'm aware it doesn't mate,
I've not had any warnings or errors on my 2010 1.6TDCi DV6 DPF focus,
The EGR still goes through the self test mode "series of clicks" after the engine has stopped.
So the ecu hasn't deteced anything is different,
I've done 297miles since fitting last Thursday evening.

#10 Bladerunner

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Posted 22 April 2013 - 06:08 AM

Hi Lenny, 

The fuel in oil light came on during an 'extra rapid' run own the M6 mostly in the fast lane-28mls approx. so I expect the engine was very hot, this appears contrary to what should happen with the dpf! when I think back the throttle was to the floor part of the journey, every one of the 5 days commute to work it gets a good blast up and back on the M6 almost 60 mls. -70-80 mph which probably means a true 65-75 is this not enough for a re-gen.

Angel tune have a re-map with 117bhp, and 54nm more  torque which is the part which makes the difference in my mind.

They come to you for a cost of £275 inc vat.

This sounds reasonable for the increases mentioned along with promised better low down drivability.

They also offer dpf removal, has anyone you know had this done.

Cheers

Martin.



#11 Lenny

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Posted 22 April 2013 - 09:30 AM

Hi Lenny, 
Angel tune have a re-map with 117bhp, and 54nm more  torque which is the part which makes the difference in my mind.
They come to you for a cost of £275 inc vat.
This sounds reasonable for the increases mentioned along with promised better low down drivability.
They also offer dpf removal, has anyone you know had this done.
Cheers
Martin.

That is strange I would have assumed the miles your doing would clear the dpf,
The remap is great value and if you drive normaly after remap it will save you fuel because you don't need to push as hard to get speed up.more power than a 1.6 petrol focus and cheaper to run,

Regarding DPF removal

Image2317.jpg

I don't know anyone who has had DPF removal done but the guys who fitted my exhaust offerd to remove it and fit a straight pipe,
However non visual inspection this would fail an MOT as it would be clear the DPF was removed.
I'm more in favour of removing the DPF,
Cutting it open on the weld line,
Removing the internals resulting in an empty chaimber,
Then re-weld the line
Re-fit to the car with all standard pipes and sensors.
Then perform DPF electronic delete.

Results will be the same "No DPF" but will appear stock and pass all inspections.
I'm considering having it done later in the year myself,
I'm now thinking;
Instead of butchering the existing dirty dpf and paying mehanic labour for the complete job,
I could purchase a cheap aftermarket dpf from e-bay and bring it to a panel beaters or iron works specialist to cut open and remove the clean internals,
Then bring the empty dpf to the exhaust place and have the existing unit swapped for the empty unit along with electronic delete,
Then if ever caught out with emissions,
We still have a genuine ford DPF in storage to fit on to the car.

#12 JohnDavis100

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Posted 04 May 2013 - 04:41 AM

Hi guys
Great post,followed the step by step and blanked off the egr of my Focus TDCI LX 2006. I had the red light appearing and it was kicking into limp mode,so I thought I would try this as the cheapest fix.
The car drive great for the first 10 miles,before the yellow engine management light appeared and then it appeared to occasionally go a bit flat through the gears,then spring back into life.
I took to my local garage and they plugged it in it showed a code of P420F I believe,which I think means egr stuck closed? They cleared it,the car drove fine again (also it may be in my mind,but the car developed a sort of pinking or ticking noise before the fault was cleared) and then last night,the yellow light reappeared.
Any advice would be appreciated

Thanks
John

#13 Lenny

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Posted 04 May 2013 - 09:44 AM

Hi guys
Great post,followed the step by step and blanked off the egr of my Focus TDCI LX 2006. I had the red light appearing and it was kicking into limp mode,so I thought I would try this as the cheapest fix.
The car drive great for the first 10 miles,before the yellow engine management light appeared and then it appeared to occasionally go a bit flat through the gears,then spring back into life.
I took to my local garage and they plugged it in it showed a code of P420F I believe,which I think means egr stuck closed? They cleared it,the car drove fine again (also it may be in my mind,but the car developed a sort of pinking or ticking noise before the fault was cleared) and then last night,the yellow light reappeared.
Any advice would be appreciated
Thanks
John


Hi John,
The pinking/ticking noise you hear is your EGR valve
On every diesel when you turn off the engine you will hear this series of clicks,
This is the EGR valve opening and closing performing self test mode,

Blanking your EGR in any case is positive,
Since its been in operation for so long you may like to use some EGR cleaner on the system too.
Also when you blank your EGR it can throw up the error from time to time,
The easiest and cheapest way to solve this is to purchase an ELM327 Diagnostic scanner
You can then view and clear the error yourself.
The ELM327 can also be modified to activate various features on your ford by following Preee's Guide:
http://www.fordowner...nd-ff2-program/

#14 JohnDavis100

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Posted 04 May 2013 - 02:15 PM

Thanks Lenny
Should I take the egr off and clean it with a bit of carb cleaner then put back together?
Just to clarify,the ticking noise is when I am driving or is it just that the exhaust note is slightly louder and Diesel engine noises are more apparent ??

Thanks again
John

#15 Lenny

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Posted 05 May 2013 - 10:10 AM

Thanks Lenny
Should I take the egr off and clean it with a bit of carb cleaner then put back together?
Just to clarify,the ticking noise is when I am driving or is it just that the exhaust note is slightly louder and Diesel engine noises are more apparent ??
Thanks again
John

Hi John,
The ticking I'm refering to; happens when the engine has just been turned off,
The egr valve will perform a series of clicks (self test mode) if you stop the car and don't hear these clicks,
That is the day your egr valve is stuck either open or closed,
But when blanked you never need to worry.

Regarding cleaning,
I've never cleaned the egr system before but I would clean the section leading inwards from the blanking plate,
As their is no reason to clean the section leading up to the blanking plate as it won't ever get in to your engine.

After fitting the blanking plate,
The engine is a bit louder due to increased pressiure because some exhaust fumes are no longer recirculating back in to combustion they are 100% expelled through the exhaust,
This helps spin your turbo faster at low RPM
Which reduices the lag,

I didn't experience any other additional ticking while driving excluding the standard diesel tone.
Hope this helps some what mate.

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