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Mk3 Tdci 2.0 Power Drops Away Rapidly When Driving Hard...


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#1 ydrol

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Posted 08 February 2014 - 07:10 PM

Hi, had a recent issue with a dead battery. That's fixed now, but the car has developed another fault which I think is unrelated?

 

When I accelerate hard in 1st or 2nd, the power drops away rapidly. Earlier than it usually does, And it feels like its generally lacking a bit of power. (I've already had the blanking plate done etc)

At one point I'm pretty sure the engine switched off (stalled I suppose) as I was pulling away hard, I couldn't wait long enough to confirm it had stalled so I just cycled the ignition and carried on driving.

 

Also at another time on the motorway, I gave it some welly, and was in 6th gear at 90mph, (just treying to understand the symtoms), and power dropped a little and the coil light started flashing. This went away the next time I started the car (which happened to be the stall just above).

 

I guess I should get the fault read but it's intemittent and goes away when the ignition is switched off.

Anyone recognise these symtoms?

 

I can drive the car sensibly and it seems OK apart for when I try to accelerate hard (and sometimes thats useful)



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#2 FOCA

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Posted 08 February 2014 - 09:48 PM

Get the codes read or better still, invest in a code reader - this can save you a lot of money/ hassle in the long run

 

You don't say what kind of Mondeo TDCI you have (VNT/ pnumatic or electronic actuator etc etc)  

 

What is happening is that when you "boot" it the ECU is detecting something wrong and backs off the power to protect the engine  

 

I don't have enough information to make a diagnosis, but, for example, if there is a cooling fault, and the engine overheats when driven hard, the ECU detects this and backs off the power  

 

Or, if there is a boost control fault (eg, sticky vanes causing exessive boost) the ECU detects this exessive boost and backs off the power - to protect the engine

 

When the car is driven gently the engine may not heat up enough to overheat or there is not enough pressure in the turbo to cause exessive boost 

 

The fault code(s) will help pin down the problem

 

A faulty sensor of faulty injectors could cause similar problems - thats why you need your codes - if you go to a "diesel specialist" or main dealer they love taking your money off you and replacing the injectors for ££££££££££s- even if it was something else all along    



#3 ydrol

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Posted 08 February 2014 - 11:00 PM

Thanks for the quick reply...

 

Get the codes read or better still, invest in a code reader - this can save you a lot of money/ hassle in the long run

 

You don't say what kind of Mondeo TDCI you have (VNT/ pnumatic or electronic actuator etc etc)  

Like the Ford ones here? or is universal better

I'm not sure which model I have. I'll check, just know its a 2.0 TDCI Ghia X



#4 FOCA

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Posted 08 February 2014 - 11:21 PM

If you have an early (pre 2004) Mk3, it may be OBD1 (not OBD11), best to stick to the F-Super or a Bluefin handset, as they work with OBD1, some of the other readers may not work with OBD1 or have the Ford - specific protocols

 

A TDCI 130 may have al sorts of configurations (different turbos/ injectors/manifolds/EGRs etc etc) Ghia X is just a trim level

 

If you post some pics up of your engine bay i could tell you     



#5 ydrol

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Posted 09 February 2014 - 11:06 AM

Ifs def an 2003 model (no DPF) I'll post some pics soon as ...



#6 FOCA

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Posted 09 February 2014 - 09:13 PM

Ifs def an 2003 model (no DPF) I'll post some pics soon as ...

We all know it does not have a DPF, a DPF on a mk3 Mondeo (2000-2007, 2.0L,2.2L, all power outputs,  trim levels) is as rare as hens' teeth, they have a passive cat     

 

Good news is it is a Euro3, so the EGR can be Blanked with no problems (solid, stainless plate)

 

It won't have an Elecrronic turbo actuator or the later type of electric EGR valve - its liable to have a pnumatic VNT, (i have seen fixed vane ones too, but rare) some early models have a rear EGR, and a different inlet manifold,  there are different injectors, the early Delphi ones can be a real pain (coding, etc)      

 

its Pre OBD11 standard, so you will need an OBD1 compatible code reader (with the Ford protocols) even a garage or main Ford dealer may not realise the compatability issues and may wonder why their fancy, expensive reader does not work (not surprising if you've been following car forums like this one, though!) - to my knowledge, only the F-super or the Bluefin handset is compatible



#7 ydrol

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Posted 10 February 2014 - 04:38 PM

Thanks  I'll look around for an OBD1 compatible reader now.

 

20140210_151935.jpg

 

Its been blanked already FWIW



#8 FOCA

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Posted 10 February 2014 - 11:12 PM

Yes, you can see the pnumatic actuator of the VNT turbo at the back, it has a front-mounted pnumatic EGR,with the inlet manifold inlet on the left-  best to check its a solid blanking plate if done by the previous owner, because the ones with a hole are useless, stainless steel is best because aluminium can melt through with the heat from the exhaust, and mild steel can rust through, the EGR valve housing and inlet manifold can get gunged up from the carbon from the EGR valve - cleaning it up can really help the cars' performance/ economy (may not be what is causing your problems, though)

 

As previously mentioned, the VNT vanes (Variable Nozzle Turbo AKA variable vane) can stick causing lack of boost control (too much boost/ too little boost/ boost at wrong time) the VNT mech is built into the exhaust manifold, it can be difficult and/or expensive to fix, but the good news is there is no electronic avtuator (even more expensive than the pnumatic on to repaor/ replace)

 

Just waiting to see what fau;lt codes pop up!     



#9 ydrol

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Posted 28 February 2014 - 09:51 AM

Hi, thanks for your help so far. I've been doing some research on what code reader to get, but just getting confused (not difficult!).  Some people say ODB1 some say ODB2!

 

I have a 53 plate 2.0 TDCI Ghia X Mondeo. According to RAC Data check when I bought it.  99% sure its TDCI 130bhp. A post on another forum says :

"Mondeo 95/115hp TDDI/TDCI from 2000>2003 LX/GL/Ghia are not obd2
Mondeo 115/130hp TDDI/TDCI from 2002>2007 Ghia-X/Titanium Spec are as thay use a diffrent wire loom

there is a bit of a cross over between the cars but all made after 2003 should be obd2"
 

They could be wrong? So it looks like 2003 Ghia X might be ODB2? (It has leather seats and fake wooden steering wheel). I'm after something for as little as possible. Max budget £60. What do I want? Shall I take a photo of my connector (whereever that is?), I'm happy doing the PC/Windows side of things :)

Also see posts by stokesd3 here ?

Also its a 53 plate - first registered on 30th Jan 2004, so it might be one of the later models that is ODB2 compliant? I understand the newoer scanners are cheaper?

I'd rather take a punt on a £20 scanner before splashing out on a Ford Specific ODB1 ? Probably answered my own question!!



#10 FOCA

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Posted 28 February 2014 - 01:47 PM

Hi, thanks for your help so far. I've been doing some research on what code reader to get, but just getting confused (not difficult!).  Some people say ODB1 some say ODB2!

 

I have a 53 plate 2.0 TDCI Ghia X Mondeo. According to RAC Data check when I bought it.  99% sure its TDCI 130bhp. A post on another forum says :

"Mondeo 95/115hp TDDI/TDCI from 2000>2003 LX/GL/Ghia are not obd2
Mondeo 115/130hp TDDI/TDCI from 2002>2007 Ghia-X/Titanium Spec are as thay use a diffrent wire loom

there is a bit of a cross over between the cars but all made after 2003 should be obd2"
 

They could be wrong? So it looks like 2003 Ghia X might be ODB2? (It has leather seats and fake wooden steering wheel). I'm after something for as little as possible. Max budget £60. What do I want? Shall I take a photo of my connector (whereever that is?), I'm happy doing the PC/Windows side of things :)

Also see posts by stokesd3 here ?

Also its a 53 plate - first registered on 30th Jan 2004, so it might be one of the later models that is ODB2 compliant? I understand the newoer scanners are cheaper?

I'd rather take a punt on a £20 scanner before splashing out on a Ford Specific ODB1 ? Probably answered my own question!!

After 2004 All diesels sold in the UK had to be OBD2 (OBDII) compliant, before that it was a bit "hit and miss"  

 

The actual plug/ socket is the same, but an OBD2 compatible reader will not work on your car if it is OBD1 (even if it has the Ford protocols)

 

Dont worry about what is written on other forums/ websites, anybody can write anything - it does not mean it is correct

 

You can pick up a secondhand Bluefin handset on ebay that has had the (re)map used on it, for the early Ford Mondeo mk3 diesels (2000-2007) - it has all the Ford Protocols and is OBD1 compliant, the F-super also works on OBD1 and has the Ford protocols - it costs around £25  

 

Edit - The Bluefin model "BF-05 - FORD-T Ford Mondeo" has the Ford proticols, and is OBD1 and OBD2 compliant  



#11 ydrol

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Posted 28 February 2014 - 02:04 PM

Thanks so this F Super   / also here ?



#12 BigD

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Posted 28 February 2014 - 02:17 PM

I have an F-Super, it's pretty good.  The only downer is that it can be a pain to set up initially as you need to tell the software which COM port the F-super is plugged into.  It doesn't auto-detect it for some reason.  The instructions that come with the software explain how to do this, though.

 

I recently had the turbo done on mine.  The F-Super found code P132B, and a mate did it for me (he's a mechanic) for £200.  A very good price considering it took him most of a Saturday (between Christmas and New Year last year) to do it.



#13 FOCA

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Posted 28 February 2014 - 02:17 PM

Thanks so this F Super   / also here ?

Yes, the price has come down recently. Note Windows 8 drivers are not mentioned, only XP, Vista and 7,(on the Amazon one, can't see any mention of drivers on the other link) some may only come with XP drivers, i suppose you could get drivers online, i have a 2002 Mondeo (OBD1) i just use my Bluefin so i don't nood to mess about with laptops/ software etc, i keep it in the glove compartment but i might pick up an F-super at that price, as it has a bit more functionality than the Bluefin  



#14 BigD

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Posted 28 February 2014 - 02:24 PM

I use my F-Super with Windows 8.  I can't remember what drivers I used, but it does work.



#15 ydrol

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Posted 28 February 2014 - 03:27 PM

Thanks chaps! Ordered from FleaBay! Now to deal with the leaking doors! Sigh ...



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