Hi,

I am planning on changing my wheel hub assembly on my Ford Focus Mk2 1.6TDCi Titainum for a genuine Ford part (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Genuine-Ford-C-Max-Focus-MK2-Wheel-Hub-Assembly-1471854/272376345567?epid=1309760943&hash=item3f6ae533df:m:maQVsaI2rrohJk6DDcQ6Ubw).

I usually use the Haynes guide for my repairs, I have all the tools to do the job except for the 'Ford Special Tool 204-348 (https://fordspecialtools.service-solutions.com/en-US/Pages/ItemDetail.aspx?SKU=204-348) mentioned.

My question is that is it possible for me to carry out this repair without using this tool or is there a less expensive option on the market? Haynes remarks that they have found it impossible to carry out the repair without this tool...

From what I understand I use my bench press to remove the old bearing and then install the new one with the pressure being applied to the steering knuckle, NOT the new wheel hub assembly. Have other people had success in rigging up some kind of jig?

Thanks in advance for your help,

Stophen.

@stef123 done mines he used a tool to take it out and press it in really quick.

I have done a wheel bearing for the front of a Mk2 Focus but don't recognise the parts you refer to here. There were no Ford special tools used, just a bench fly press, some bodged bits and lots of force by two of us heaving on the press.

All I would say is this, stop and work out where you need to apply the force. When refitting the bearing you must only apply the force to the outer race which is usually a press fit into the hub. Pushing in the bearing by loading the inner race will result in early failure once installed. The load is transmitted through the ball race and is much greater than it is designed to take.

Best of luck,

ScaniaPBman.

Thanks @F0CUE & @ScaniaPBman for your thoughts.

I thought there may be a way around what Haynes says. So, what I need to do is make sure that I don't apply any pressure to the ball bearing area. If I was to apply pressure to the knuckle instead of the wheel hub assembly when refitting would that work?

I was going to use my bench press which is like this one: https://www.sgs-engineering.com/shbp10m-10-ton-h-frame-bench-hydraulic-press?gclid=EAIaIQobChMInPKFxuvB5gIVVeDtCh2R0g2nEAQYBCABEgLAo_D_BwE Hopefully it should be up to the job.

Cheers, Stophen.

This is the correct tool here https://www.amazon.co.uk/Mekanik-Bearing-Transit-Professional-Compatible/dp/B07RVBCD8F/ref=asc_df_B07RVBCD8F/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=344376548113&hvpos=1o7&hvnetw=g&hvrand=12773217137361509574&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1007321&hvtargid=pla-791183965377&psc=1

The bearings on the focus are 78mm, that kit says 82mm

Thank guys,

So that tool is for removing the hub by hand not using a press?

Cheers,

Chris.

 

Yes, it uses a threaded rod

Have a look here at this Youtube video

It shows the wheel bearing job using a professional kit similar to the one above.

There are several other videos there if you care to look.

ScaniaPBman

Hi @ScaniaPBman & @stef123,

Thanks for the help. I've trolled YouTube and came across several videos (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kKHomQrSSGg & https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NBCO0EAJA5Y) using a bench press similar to mine, so I think I will give that a try first.

As I understand Ford, for once has made things easier than on other models as the wheel hub assembly is in one piece and there aren't any circlips to remove - CAN SOMEONE CONFIRM THIS FOR ME?

So my plan is to remove the steering knuckle and place it on my bench press. I will then using a metal disc just small than the internal diameter of the knuckle and press out the old hub. I will then flip the knuckle over and install the complete new assemble using the same metal disc pressing down on the top of the assembly to make sure that force is only applied to the outside of the bearing (or I suppose I could use the old one to help alignment).

Four quick questions;

1. Would you guys suggest putting the new hub assemble in the freezer to aid installation, and if so for how long?

2. Should I lubricate the inside of the knuckle and the assemble, and if so with what?

3. What size diameter would be good as my metal disc for removing the old bearing?

4. Any other suggestions?

Thanks, Stophen.

UPDATE

I've just consulted Haynes and I think I understand what the special tool is for. It is to make sure that the space between the knuckle and the new assemble is correct. I think with taking some measurements before I remove anything (on both sides) and finding some metal off the appropriate thickness I will be able to replicate the tool. I have attached the page so please leave me your comments.

Bearing Removal.pdf

4 hours ago, Stophen said:

I will then flip the knuckle over and install the complete new assemble using the same metal disc pressing down on the top of the assembly to make sure that force is only applied to the outside of the bearing (or I suppose I could use the old one to help alignment).

I am not sure I understand 100% what the plan is, but as I see it, the problem is that the hub has a bigger diameter than the bearing outer race. This means that to apply pressure to push the bearing back in, a split ring is needed that can enclose the hub, and transfer the force to the outer race of the bearing. The ring must be split to go over the hub. This does not sound like a very easy tool to fabricate.

As far as I know (not very far, but I have had mine replaced, and have one of the old ones), the hub is always an integral part of the bearing as supplied on the MK2 Focus.

7 hours ago, Tdci-Peter said:

I am not sure I understand 100% what the plan is, but as I see it, the problem is that the hub has a bigger diameter than the bearing outer race. This means that to apply pressure to push the bearing back in, a split ring is needed that can enclose the hub, and transfer the force to the outer race of the bearing. The ring must be split to go over the hub. This does not sound like a very easy tool to fabricate.

It's coming back to me slowly.

I think we managed to do this pressing operation by taking an old brake disc and splitting it in half through the centre with an angle grinder.

Hope this helps.

ScaniaPBman.

Hi @ScaniaPBman & @Tdci-Peter,

Thanks for those comments and cutting down the brake disc sounds like genius!

After thinking about it I definitely need to follow the Haynes instructions and press it in as described. I went online and had a search for a similar tool to the Ford 204-348, loads were really expensive until I found this: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Sfeomi-Wheel-Bearing-Removal-Puller/dp/B082D25L8Y/ref=sr_1_10_sspa?crid=2CM2D8PHJVOYZ&keywords=gen2+wheel+bearing+tool+78mm&qid=1576912115&sprefix=78mm+wheel+bear%2Caps%2C151&sr=8-10-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyUThXTTAzVE1NQjBKJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMDc0OTk0MVdKTk1JRUE5WkQxQSZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNTQ5Mjc5MlBSNDdDRFlLQUE3MiZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2J0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

I realise it won't be great quality but way cheaper than asking Ford to do it (they wanted £185 per bearing). I will need to source a piece of metal tubing to support the split collar (Metal Supermarket should be able to help with this) but I think it might work, thoughts?

I also had another idea that if I can remove the old one it might just be easier to take it to a garage that specialises in these bearings and ask them to fit the new ones. I've found a place in Glasgow that does this, but they aren't open until Monday so I won't be able to get a price until then.

Cheers, Stophen.

2 hours ago, Stophen said:

I realise it won't be great quality but way cheaper than asking Ford to do it (they wanted £185 per bearing). I will need to source a piece of metal tubing to support the split collar (Metal Supermarket should be able to help with this) but I think it might work, thoughts?

I seem to recall looking at a kit like that. But both my bearings went in Winter (2016 & 2017), and I really did not feel up to the job in the cold & wet, so I paid about £220 per side for a good local garage to do the jobs. I knew from a friend that they had done this type of job before, and knew what they were doing. The bearings they used weren't the cheapest, they were about £90 each, the owner said he had experience (bad!) of cheaper bearings and would not be able to offer any warranty at all if he used them. An advantage of the DIY method may be that you can risk using cheaper bearings, if you have the kit to re-do them if they fail early.

One word of caution: The driveshafts were very well rusted in to the hubs on my car after 10-11 years out in the wet. It took a lot of hard work to get it all apart, I was informed!

Also, looking at the kit, I see split rings, what looks like support posts, and a complete ring. I guess it can be built into an assembly that fully encloses the hub, so an additional tube may not be needed. As you have a bench press, you may not need the central threaded rod.

I see that threaded rod as a potential weak part, it must take a lot of force to push that bearing in. It looks to me like the only thing holding the front wheels to the car is the friction on that bearing. The driveshaft bolts only secure the driveshaft to the hub, and the driveshafts are not really held in to the car. I think the CV joints are too big to fit through the knuckle, so that should stop the whole wheel, complete with driveshaft, from leaving the car and rolling off down the road! But it would still be undrivable if the bearing moved appreciably in the knuckle.

Hi @Tdci-Peter,

I know what you mean about the weather! I can handle it being cold but if it starts raining I'm out of there!

I'm planning on replacing the bearings with genuine Ford parts, I found them on eBay (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Genuine-Ford-C-Max-Focus-MK2-Wheel-Hub-Assembly-1471854/272376345567?epid=1309760943&hash=item3f6ae533df:m:maQVsaI2rrohJk6DDcQ6Ubw) for £70.99 so am happy with that!

If I use the kit I would probably only use the split collar and mount that on my bench press. I'm going to wait to get a quote for fitting and see what is best.

I think I will give it a go and at any point it becomes unmanageable I will refit what I've removed and take it to the garage.

I've got to remove a few ball joints (I hate these) and was thinking about buying a decent tool for that. Do you have any you would recommend, I found this was from Sykes-Pickavant: https://www.sykes-pickavant.com/products/suspension-tools/ball-joint-removal/463 It's a little expensive but if it does the job I'm ok with that.

Cheers, Stophen.

1 hour ago, Stophen said:

I found this was from Sykes-Pickavant

Sykes-Pickavant have a very good and long reputation, so it should be a tool that will last a lifetime!

As it happens, some while ago I picked up a very old and well used gear / bearing puller from a market stall, for a couple of quid. It still seems to work well, and it was only later I noticed the Sykes-Pickavant name on it! It is not a ball joint separator though, I could do with one of those.

I have seen much cheaper bearings on Ebay, but the quality may well be suspect. I don't like the design of it much, the forces on the balls and races must be enormous. Imagine hitting a pothole, on a bend, while braking. Well, perhaps best not to imagine it really, doesn't bear thinking what the forces are. However mine lasted about 150k miles (assuming they were original), so I guess it works ok. But those stresses do need quality products.

 

I have one just like that, the track rod end ball joint taper pops off. Careful you don't nick the rubber boot.

On my Focus the bottom suspension taper joint is too large for this tool but do not despair, getting it off is easy.

Undo the nut for the bottom taper and leave it on the thread one turn loose.

Get a long sturdy bar and place it through the bottom suspension arm so that you can get a separating load on the taper.

Have an assistant stand on the sturdy bar putting a good load to separate the taper.

Tap the side of the boss around the taper.

It will go without any trouble and the sturdy bar will drop an inch or so.

Job done.

ScaniaPBman.

Hi @ScaniaPBman,

Thanks for the tips!

In the last few years I’ve had the suspension arms of a number of times. Once to replace the whole unit and second to replace the actual ball joint on the arm (there was a lot of drilling involved).

I’ve used a fork so far but am defiantly thinking about upgrading to something a little less aggressive, especially for the other joints!

Cheers, Stophen.

UPDATE 30/12/2019:

Just a quick post to say that I found a great place in Glasgow who removed my old wheel hub assemblies and replaced them with new ones that I had bought.

The place is Wheelbearing Services Glasgow: http://www.wheelbearingservices.com/contact-us.html Great price and very quick service!

I was also very lucky as all the bolts, nuts and ball joints came off the steering knuckle without a fight!

Thanks to everyone who contributed!

Stophen.

On 12/19/2019 at 4:47 PM, stef123 said:

The bearings on the focus are 78mm, that kit says 82mm

I have mk2 1.8 tdci KKDA. I think i need the 78mm kit? 

Hi there I’ve got a Ford focus c max with a front wheel bearing gone what the right bearing and the right bearing tool kit thanks Scott 

On 1/31/2023 at 4:54 AM, Scott harris said:

Hi there I’ve got a Ford focus c max with a front wheel bearing gone what the right bearing and the right bearing tool kit thanks Scott 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/255617256487?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=Y-D8QI12SRu&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=cmrVhlhqQFC&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Sorry late reply Iv been in hospital.

16 minutes ago, Simmo80 said:

Sorry late reply

I wouldn't worry @Scott harris is a OPW.

Made one post 31st Jan and has not been back since. Those who don't complete their profile are mostly just passing through 🙄

10 minutes ago, unofix said:

I wouldn't worry @Scott harris is a OPW.

Made one post 31st Jan and has not been back since. Those who don't complete their profile are mostly just passing through 🙄

Don't think Iv completed mine yet. But defo been on here a bit. And try to help and share my experiences as much as possible. Although doing bigger jobs myself might be out the question for a while since coming out of hospital. Don't want to go on. So I'll just say, pneumonia, pleurisy, emphysema, blood clot.

Hope everyone is well.