Have you bought a code reader yet? You can easily check if the pump is supplying enough power with one, but I've never known a pump to clatter anyway. Also, injector #4 you say is ticking loudly ....thats not normal, if its jammed open then that can cause loss of fuel pressure and would explain the white smoke just before the engine stopped. If you ARE halfway through changing the fuel filter, then you must prime it by filling the IN spout, NOT the centre Out spout, else you will introduce unfiltered fuel into the pump, common rail and injectors... the filter is a 3 micron one-so the fuel is ultra-clean, it's very critical else the injectors will clog up, and you will have fun and games then. 

Will be doing filter this weekend, I have not got a code reader yet as do not have the finances to buy a decent one, this includes one for a laptop or android phone as i have neither. 

My main concern is putting too much money into a lost cause at this point. I have a garage nearby that have offered to diagnose the car but i need to get it running and to them, the battery is getting low from my EGR fix yesterday and I don't have a booster pack to use. Main issue with diagnosing this issue is not having the right tools or finances to buy said tools.

I can jump the battery from another car once i've changed the filter but don't want to be wasting time if it will make no difference. 

A failing injector could describe the smoke seen but i have not known them to cause clattering? As said the EGR was coked up but a clean and some gentle work on the plunger and it moved again. However this was stuck closed anyway so doubt it caused clattering from what i've read. 

The best way to describe the noise was like a bearing had exploded and based on the fact i was accelerating at the time I thought the turbo had blew but as said its perfectly fine. No side to side movement and nice easy spinning turbine with no oil in the turbine.

I am starting to think the noise was the pump bearings however when the car was revved after it stopped the clatter was from the engine bay if i remember correctly towards the battery side.

Double post i know but...

If the pump is failing will i still hear a whine when priming it / turning key till aux is on? 

I'm not even sure if diesel pumps work the same as petrol and I know a bit more about petrol then diesel.

The HP pump doesn't prime electronically, that's why it needs manually priming after a filter change.  So no noise expected with ignition on.

However, did you mention clatter before?  (Might be getting my threads muddled, I was thinking metallic scraping).  Metallic clatter is likely to be diesel knock.  It happens when there's diesel in the cylinder too early...so effectively the same as hitting the piston with a hammer as it's still on the way up.  That would point to either a stuck injector if just one, or a faulty crank sensor not knowing when to fire the injectors if all of them.

Best way to describe it was a bearing exploding, clatter was there when revving after it cut out. If its an injector surely it will start on 3 cylinders? I'm fairly certain injector 4 is at fault for some of these issues however i need to get it back running to get to the garage. 

I've managed to get my hands on a generic code reader, i know this is pretty much useless for ford codes but i'm hoping it can provide the answer to the no start either by clearing the codes or pointing me in a rough direction.

 

If you're having battery troubles, then here's a tip: pull out the LARGE yellow 60amp fuse, F8, from tne fusebox next to the battery. This feeds the glowplugs, so everytime you turn on tne ignition and are cranking, the glowplugs get energised for 30 seconds. Coupled with the starter motor, the battery gets  a hammering! You don't need the glowplugs for the engine to start, they're more for reducing  smoke.  You'll get more cranking amps, for longer. 

Note that there are 2 60 amp fuses, you want to pull the LARGE yellow one. There's a fusebox layout here:

https://www.fordwiki.co.uk/index.php/Fuse_%26_Relay_Information

I'll give that a go, i've actually never heard of that before. With a trouble starting issue wouldn't the glowplugs help?

I'm going to change the fuel filter and get some easy start in it this weekend soon as it fires up off to the garage for a proper diagnosis and new injector. 

Quick question whats peoples experiences with second hand injectors? All garages say they don't like it and would rather i buy new but i would not be replacing all 4 in that case as its a couple hundred £ for one.

I bought a set of second hand injectors that were rubbish.  They hadn't been stored correctly and were worse than I was replacing.  However, I sold several sets when I was breaking cars and never had any complaints or returns.  So just make sure they're from a trusted seller, or if possible disconnected and pulled from the engine on the day you buy them.

6 hours ago, TomsFocus said:

I bought a set of second hand injectors that were rubbish.  They hadn't been stored correctly and were worse than I was replacing.  However, I sold several sets when I was breaking cars and never had any complaints or returns.  So just make sure they're from a trusted seller, or if possible disconnected and pulled from the engine on the day you buy them.

Thats the plan, Really appreciate all your help and will be updating this with my findings / the fix when it comes to it.

Trouble is, garages don't have diesel test equipment, their policy is to swap till fixed, or you're broke (serious) better to take it  to a diesel specialist... even better is to try to fix it yourself. Don't be too quick to use easy start as it can result in jumped timing chain. If you like getting your hands dirty, why not whip off the cam cover and just check all the rocker bolts are tight-a loose one means a broken rocker cradle, which might explain the clattering. btw,  unless the temp is frosty, your diesel will start without help from the glowplugs. 

10 minutes ago, nicam49 said:

Trouble is, garages don't have diesel test equipment, their policy is to swap till fixed, or you're broke (serious) better to take it  to a diesel specialist... even better is to try to fix it yourself. Don't be too quick to use easy start as it can result in jumped timing chain. If you like getting your hands dirty, why not whip off the cam cover and just check all the rocker bolts are tight-a loose one means a broken rocker cradle, which might explain the clattering. btw,  unless the temp is frosty, your diesel will start without help from the glowplugs. 

fairly certain the cams are in good nic the engine is fairly solid.. i would replace injectors myself but don't have the coding tools and I am planning on being careful with easy start as I know diesels are not friendly with it. I'll whip out that relay if it will still start without help and give it some tinkering. The nearest diesel specialist to where the car is, is about 10 miles away so I'm looking at a £50 tow bill plus the £70 they have quoted just to look for the issue. 

Based on what I've experienced I expect injector on cylinder 4 is faulty.. It makes a loud ticking noise and sounds like the misfire is coming from that cylinder when i had it running. I'm a little concerned about the compression seen as it won't start anymore but as i said the engines always started first turn of the key and ran perfect before this incident so i don't see the compression suddenly dropping so drastically. From my experience an engine with low compression would turn over a few times first before starting. I've got a feeling the non-start is from it simply just not getting enough fuel through so I'm hoping just a tiny spray of easy start will give it that boost needed.

If you're prepared to give it a go, buy an injector removal socket, and change injector #4, you don't need to reprogram the 'new' one to see if the engine runs. 

20 minutes ago, nicam49 said:

If you're prepared to give it a go, buy an injector removal socket, and change injector #4, you don't need to reprogram the 'new' one to see if the engine runs. 

So will the injector still fire if its not coded in? It was my understanding the car ignores the injector while its not coded in ? Looking into it ive managed to get hold of a laptop what brand of link is recommended for the obd and can i code them on forscan?

Yes it will run with wrong codes! Might smoke a bit! I incorrectly coded 2 of my injectors (got cylinders #2 and #3 wrong way round ) and cars following me kept their distance + it failed mot on smoke test) but it'll run.  By far the best reader and cheap at around £20 is one from Tunnelrat electronics...have.look on their website and drop them a line if you aren't sure... Steve Elmer there always replies. And yes you can code your injectors with it to. 

There IS a way to do a leakoff test on a non-running engine,  here's a  link, but what it doesn't mention is that when you disconnect the leakoff pipes, you must cap them to prevent air getting into the fuel system, else you find the fuel system is full of air. When you buy a leakoff test kit or the connectors to make your own, they come with caps

https://talkford.com/community/topic/236048-leak-off-question/

 

Also, be aware that a leak-off test just  tells you that; it can pass that test and still be faulty in other ways. .. if you take them to a Delphi diesel centre they place them in a rig and do a full test for around  £10 + vat each.. (that's if you remove 'em yourself and take them in) 

4 hours ago, nicam49 said:

 

Leak off test confirmed my suspicions on injector 4. I have managed to get my hands on a set of st injectors. Mine are 504z based on what i've read these will fit but need mapping in will the engine run without a map or cause more issues?

 

Also got it running for long enough to do the test with easy start and some gentle throttle movement. Pretty much confirmed my fueling theory

I'd just replace the one for now. If you replace all 4, then do them one at a time, and run the engine between each one, else you will most probably have serious bleeding problems. (most do..) also if you change just the one, then you've only got one injector that has the wrong codes, (see what I mean) also, (just thought of this).. if any of your 'new' injectors happen to be faulty, and it does happen,  it'll get really confusing.                                       Good work, btw 👍

Bit of an issue already fitted all 4 and stupidly forgot about bleeding the system.. The engine ran fairly perfect for a whole 100 yards and cut out because an airlock in the system.

Got a bit carried away you could say.. Whats my best way at getting this air lock out?

Will do another leak off test but the injectors i managed to get were 601z and the ones I took out were 504z from what I read online it is best to change them as a set when changing code. I made sure they were taken from the engine that day and the seller provided two videos of the engine running almost flawlessly one from the same day and one from a couple days ago so I don't think they will be an issue. I've written down all the codes for each cylinder and ordered the coding tool to get them coded in. 

Little worried at how I'm going to get this airlock out now and if it means undoing all todays work.

I've read that to bleed them, cracking the injectors fuel lines until a fine mist of fuel is ejected while turning it over? Is it too late for this should this be the fix

Cracking CR injector nuts isn't ideal due to the pressures they run at, be very careful of your hands and eyes if you try it. 

In theory they should self bleed while cranking the starter as long as you have fuel up to the HP pump.

Don't crank tbe starter fir >30 secs at a time! The starter motor on these have a very delicate engage mechanism that breaks all too easily (I should know...) also don't be tempted to let the starter carry on cranking when the engine starts to 'catch' for the same reason.  Make sure the leakoff pipes are securely inserted in the injectors....this is where air gets onto the fuel system and causes an airlock. 

 

I allow the started to turn 3-4 times so roughly 15 secs at most to protect it.. The engine seems to be getting no fuel at all now so i am assuming it is an airlock preventing fuel reaching the injectors. I know the pressure can be extremely dangerous and most have suggested getting a rag over the open nut to help prevent this danger. The engine started first try when they were installed. Could there be a fault because the battery is almost dead? I had it connected to another car to start. A tiny spray of easy start had it try and start so that confirms an issue with fueling. 

When i had it running i left it to idle for around 5 mintues before a test drive it idled fairly smoothly considering it needs coding, when driving i got to 45 mph and thats where it cut and wouldn't start again? 

Is there an easier way to bleed it instead of cracking the nuts?

 

Also i must apologise for not taking your advise first im under a bit of a time restraint to get the car moving again as its not at my property so only get to work on it every now and again and the property owner wants their driveway space back.

Reread the replies and beleive ive found the issue.. one of the clips on leak off pipes broke, injector 1 i fitted the pipe tight but forgot to get a cable tie on it or anything in my haste. This is probably the fault letting air into the system.. i did check it was nice and snug fit when it cut out but slipped my mind thats the one without a clip. Ill get that sorted when i code them and update

Light at the end of the tunnel then... 🙂

You will need to resolve that leakoff pipe broken clip  issue permanently tho....🤔 

1 minute ago, nicam49 said:

Light at the end of the tunnel then... 🙂

You will need to resolve that leakoff pipe broken clip  issue permanently tho....🤔 

Just to get it running will play with cable ties but for a permanent fix will see if i can pick it up from a scrapyard, Should update by tuesday if all goes well otherwise i'll come back for your guys words of wisdom.

Just to let you know, there's 2 versions of the leakoff pipes. The earlier version you have to slide retainers over the tops of the injectors before you can secure the leakoff pipes, and the later improved type has leakoffs that secure around the back of the injector... so you really want the 2nd type, but breakers might be full of the older version  which is useless without those clips that slide over the top of the injector. Really better to buy  new.. unless you can guarantee getting the later type