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Mondeo Mk3 2.0 TDCI 130BHP, Injector issues.. knowledge required

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  • Author

Issue with getting them new would be ford charge an arm and leg but ill see what i can find. Mines got the clips that clip round the back of the injector im assuming the revised version.

The plastics have become brittle over time so i will definately be trying to buy new first.



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  • Koolkuts1
    Koolkuts1

    Thats the plan, Really appreciate all your help and will be updating this with my findings / the fix when it comes to it.

  • TomsFocus
    TomsFocus

    I'd change your mechanics tbh. White smoke can be all sorts...burning coolant, excess fuel, but in this case I'd suggest burning oil from the turbo exhaust seal.  Oil only burns blue if it goes t

  • TomsFocus
    TomsFocus

    Turbo's do wear out over time - I've blown 3 of them so far!    I'd also be wary of braided lines - are they definitely the correct internal diameter for example... I'd suggest it's the exhaust s

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If you don't already know, you can find part numbers (called Finis codes) for your car from www.catcar.info and once you've got the finis code, then do an Internet or ebay search with 'Ford (finis code)' for helpful results. 

just enter your vin and you'll find the correct parts for your car's specific build

And yes, you're better of buying the leak-off pipes new.  With knowing  the finis code, you can often find NOS bargains on ebay

Looks like it's this finis code:   1233556

Hello,

You need to go to a garage and have an injector fuel test, which tells you how much the injectors are producing, You will probably find No3 and No4 are over fuelling. Then fit Jaguar injectors in which ever ones are at fault. Injectors are expensive, but I got a set from a place at Doncaster for £25 second hand, it cured my Mondeo, also fit a new fuel filter, I got one from British Diesel made in the UK. Finally fill your tank with top grade Shell Diesel, not the cheap stuff and clear the system out.   

  • Author
On 3/8/2021 at 12:44 PM, nicam49 said:

If you don't already know, you can find part numbers (called Finis codes) for your car from www.catcar.info and once you've got the finis code, then do an Internet or ebay search with 'Ford (finis code)' for helpful results. 

just enter your vin and you'll find the correct parts for your car's specific build

And yes, you're better of buying the leak-off pipes new.  With knowing  the finis code, you can often find NOS bargains on ebay

Looks like it's this finis code:   1233556

I appreciate this thankyou so much.

 

10 hours ago, 007 Mondeo said:

Hello,

You need to go to a garage and have an injector fuel test, which tells you how much the injectors are producing, You will probably find No3 and No4 are over fuelling. Then fit Jaguar injectors in which ever ones are at fault. Injectors are expensive, but I got a set from a place at Doncaster for £25 second hand, it cured my Mondeo, also fit a new fuel filter, I got one from British Diesel made in the UK. Finally fill your tank with top grade Shell Diesel, not the cheap stuff and clear the system out.   

Hello, 

I appreciate your reply however I have already done the leak off test myself, Fitted 4 new injectors and had it running / driving. I am now updating this thread with my experience and any information that someone with a simmilar problem can turn to. 

 

 

For those following I'm still waiting on the tool to code the injectors in and will update when its arrived and I've coded them in. 

  • Author

Hello, 

Sorry its been so long since I've updated but been having a real issue with the car.

It's had all 4 injectors fitted, Fuel filter changed.. I fitted new injector seals because mine were leaking into the oil so new seals and oil / oil filter. I've coded all injectors and yet it still won't run properly. I primed the fuel system and i can get it running with a bit of wd and a jump start but then it needs constant revs to keep going and still eventually the injectors rattle and it cuts out. 

Now i have cracked off all the fuel lines and made sure it's getting fuel to the injectors and triple checked all work but its still not playing ball. 

What am i missing? Is it just a airlock I need to get out or is it something bigger don't want to keep forcing it to run if it's causing more damage. 

Had the rocker cover off and checked cams but theyre all fine too just thought its worth a check while doing injector seals. 

Thought i'd add the engines getting enough air and i can't find any split pipes or faults with the exhaust. The engine doesn't sound healthy when running so either compression or fuel from what I can see. It seems to have enough compression to run but fuel is intermittent, Could this be a faulty pump however i'm not getting any codes for low rail pressure ect.. 

If you unplug the IMV* and injectors (electrical connectors) and monitor frp (fuel rail pressure) while cranking the engine, if the pump is good you should see >1000 bar. Mind you, mine's worn and only gives 850 bar, but it runs well but with the occasional fault code and eml.    *=inlet metering valve on rear of pump

  • Author
21 minutes ago, nicam49 said:

If you unplug the IMV* and injectors (electrical connectors) and monitor frp (fuel rail pressure) while cranking the engine, if the pump is good you should see >1000 bar. Mind you, mine's worn and only gives 850 bar, but it runs well but with the occasional fault code and eml.    *=inlet metering valve on rear of pump

Is this something I can do on ForScan? If its not the pump what else should i be looking for?

 

EDIT: I would expect mine to be down a little as its getting close to 200k now. 

A family friend suggested maybe it's just airlocks cutting it out and a bump start might get fuel running through again but i thought just getting it running at all would help with this. When it's about to die the injectors rattle again but when it starts they're fine it's just running lumpy like multiple misfires. I've checked for codes but none stored.

I 'think' you can monitor live data in forscan... It's certainly clever enough..it should allow you to display a graph of live data or a  saved  version on the computer. Have you looked at the leakoff connectors.. are they securely seated in the injectors and are the O rings in good condition? You can buy replacements from Ford. Let me know if you need the part number. The pump puts a negative pressure on the leakoff pipes so that if any air can leak in you do get a lot of grief. I hope you didn't fill the fuel filter thro' the centre spout! 

  • Author

Filter was filled by the IN, spout same as center one but on the edge, i have checked the leak off and they are all securely fitted, the o-rings seem brand new all round no blemishes or nics that will cause a leak. 

Ill get the fuel data up next time im with it. Anything else i should be chasing? I can get it running with a jump start and WD but only for 30-40secs before it sputters then dies 

Beware of both jump starting and using that stuff up the inlet, 'cos both are reputed to cause the timing chain to jump. If I find any info on how to live monitor with Forscan, I'll post it up, unless someone else beats me to it... 

  • Author
1 hour ago, nicam49 said:

Beware of both jump starting and using that stuff up the inlet, 'cos both are reputed to cause the timing chain to jump. If I find any info on how to live monitor with Forscan, I'll post it up, unless someone else beats me to it... 

Yeah im being quite careful with it dont like using it but just a thought incase i had an airlock in the system, give it a little boost to run it through. After a couple runs would have thought any airlock would have cleared now so going to check the injector loom and pump with whatever software works best. Ill have a mess about on forscan and update if i can find a way for live data otherwise let you know how i got around it.

When it runs, does it respond to the throttle? What colour is the cam sensor.... Black ones are known to be dodgy and the replacment for them is a grey one. 

  • Author
1 hour ago, nicam49 said:

When it runs, does it respond to the throttle? What colour is the cam sensor.... Black ones are known to be dodgy and the replacment for them is a grey one. 

When it runs the throttle response is fine and it will rev up as high as you want, Will run for about 30 seconds lumpy can probably push it to a mintue if i play with the throttle but eventually stalls out. Seems like all signs of a airlock in the fuel system but i would have thought it would clear by now with a bit of running. I've had it running about 5 times. I'll check the colour of the cam sensor next time i'm with it. Had it plugged in and no codes are showing.

  • Author

Hello all, changed this because of my mistake. The fuel rail pressure reports back at 800-1000kpa where as the desired fuel rail pressure is reporting back as 29500kpa. The injectors are reporting simmilar getting around 5kpa and the desired is close to 60kpa.

Ill add an image of the live data when i get home but this seems like a possible dead pump. I will report that the battery was still low but was connected to another car for the boost in voltage. Got it on charge now and will be back sometime in the week to try with a charged battery. 

Ive done my best to be kind on the starter only turning it over for short bursts ect but it seems to be on its way out too so im trying to stop cranking unless i really need to now.

Have you rectified the broken leak off pipe yet? A temporary repair doesn't work... Trust me on that - if the clip is broken then you need a new set preferably the later type that doesn't use those clips that slide over the top of the injector body. 

  • Author

Mine are ones that wrap around the body, not any that slide over the top, I've got a part on the way but still waiting on delivery. Because it's this type the pipe fits sung and should be enough to get it running and would only expect issues when the fuel system is under higher load. If i am honest the fit on the leak off pipe that has the broken clip seems a better fit then any other. Following my fuel pressures being careful about how much more time i invest into this car as it's not worth it to me to replace the fuel pump. 

I've added the image of the fuel readings.

163151357_1079038419248748_4996634304473027471_n.jpg

You need to disconnect the IMV and injectors to live monitor the frp whilst cranking to do  that  pump test. (just seen your update that units are in kpa!) A pump that deliveres 800 bar minimum is still good enough to start and run the engine, it  just means you'll get problems when driving fast.  Low pressure can be can be due to an injector being stuck,  You can get them tested for around £12+vat  each if you remove them and take them to your local Delphi specialist... I'd wait for that replacement leak off pipe set. If you've got one of those fuel hand pump things, then when the car cuts out, connect it onto the fuel filter OUT spout and see if it draws any fuel or if it appears to be empty. If you haven't got one, don't bother buying one from Halfords, Machine Mart or Laser,  'cos they all aren't diesel poroof and the one way valve fails. I got mine from a diesel specialist after wasting my money on those other ones... btw, when I changed my pump, before connecting up the injectors, I purged the system by connecting the pipes from the common rail to some tubing into some plastic bottles, then cranked the engine a few times until fuel entered the bottles, and was surprised how LITTLE fuel came out.... so don't judge what you're seeing as not being OK.... wait till you've changed that leak off pipe.  Also, to save the battery, pull the large yellow 60amp fuse, F8, it feeds the glowplugs for 30seconds everytime you turn the ignition on! Can really affect battery life when you're trying to troubleshoot. 

  • Author

Had the fuse out the whole time, plugged it back in when i was trying to get it to start as there was a code. I do think a bad battey is causing alot of faults here not needed so going to wait till it's all charged and see if theres any change. 

Forgot to mention when i read the codes this morning before touching anything else it reported a short on injector 4, Cleared them and have not been able to get it back so not sure what thats about but the majority of codes I'm getting are linked to a dead battery. 

All injectors came out of a healthy running car and the owner had them leakoff tested. It could still be possible they are faulty so I will look into getting them to a Delphi specialist for testing if a charged battery and the pump test reports back well. 

Must apologise if the data is not very useful never used forscan before and all your valuable information left my head when I got to it at 6am, Working around other peoples schedules at the moment as transport and can't have the car here as I live in a set of flats with on street parking not the best place to be working on the car.

The leakoff pipe set has been followed up on and should be with me in the next couple days. 

Thank you for all your help, my first diesel and I'm not that mechanically minded. 

  • Author
On 3/18/2021 at 4:47 PM, nicam49 said:

 

Back to the car today noticed all 4 injectors are seated as cylinder 1 the highest and cylinder 4 the lowest is this normal? Only a few mm difference but do they need reseating?

  • Author

Finished with it today. Couldnt get it running at all all signs of a broke pump. Bleed it but still no avail, wont get enough fuel pressure. Thinking its scrap time already cost way more then its worth to me.

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