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Immobiliser malfunction


Nkaz
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Hello there just wondering if anyone has been in a similar situation and knows a fix, my 2016 fiesta 1.0 mk7 was in a front end collision and it cut off straight away after being hit, having repaired the car and replaced airbags the lot, the car won’t start up and it says immobiliser malfunction service now, I had lost the keys whilst I was out so got new key made and programmed and still won’t work have replaced ecu and still same issue, checked with a diagnostic tool and it says lost communication with ECM/PCM and the code is U0100. Is there anything that I’m missing that could be an obvious reason why the car won’t turn over the dash works and everything is fine just won’t turn over and actually start. Also when fully twisting key in ignition the mileage trip counter goes to - - - - - instead of the numbers I’ve used 3 different batteries so I know it’s not the battery at fault. 
thank you in advance 

95ABB03A-663C-4174-BDD7-263C28036958.jpeg

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7 hours ago, Nkaz said:

I’ve used 3 different batteries so I know it’s not the battery at fault.

I can confirm that it is not the batteries in the key that are causing the problem. The immobiliser is passive and so you can take the battery out the key and not even bother with it.

The key has two independent functions (a) the passive transponder chip. This is what the ignition reads to check the key is valid. (b) The active transmitter which uses the battery for the remote locking/unlocking of the doors, and has nothing to do with starting the car.

Have you programmed both parts of the key functions in to the car ?

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Is there any front end harness damage, caused by the impact, that has been missed and not repaired?

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13 hours ago, Nkaz said:

I had lost the keys whilst I was out so got new key made and programmed and still won’t work

As Unofix has pointed out. It looks like the ECU is not programmed to recognise the immobiliser transponder in the new key.

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It’s a standard bladed key I have made not a remote key. The key been programmed to the car and I meant I’ve changed the car battery not the key battery as I’ve heard the car battery can cause a lot of hassle on these.

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It’s a standard bladed key I have made not a remote key. The key been programmed to the car and I meant I’ve changed the car battery not the key battery as I’ve heard the car battery can cause a lot of hassle on these. There was slight damage on the headlight wiring when the headlight was pushed in but all the wires that had a kink or bend or any damage have been checked and fixed. The original ecu had the key paired to that one and it had not done anything I am yet to programme the new ecu to the car and reprogram the keys but when I had bought the ecu the bloke had said it would not need programming it’s simply plug and play 

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 There was slight damage on the headlight wiring when the headlight was pushed in but all the wires that had a kink or bend or any damage have been checked and fixed. 

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I'm amazed that on a 2016 car you don't have a remote keyfob. I've not seen a metal key used to open a door lock for years.

Who, or how was the new keys programmed in to the car ?

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1 hour ago, Nkaz said:

I meant I’ve changed the car battery not the key battery as I’ve heard the car battery can cause a lot of hassle on these.

You changed the car battery 3 times !!!!

Those poor Dolphins, I expect you will be getting a call from Greta, she is going to be extremely annoyed 😠 

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The diagnostic tool in the photo that’s in the original post was the tool he used he also had a small remote thing that he placed the chip inside which then programmed to the car I used standard blade as he said it’ll take him a month to get the remote keys which was just too long for me and everyone else was too busy to come out so he was only choice. By changed I meant used the battery out of different cars that I knew worked and tried but was the same issue just to keep Greta happy and not Make another speech. 

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I was going to get a new remote key made but thought if the key wasn’t the issue I’d leave it until I got the car sorted, I was thinking in getting a whole new ecu kit for it but don’t want the same issue so any ideas what to do in this situation?

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Why do you want to replace the ECU ?

I'm not convinced that the key is actually programmed in to the car.

The best diagnostic software to use is FORScan and it is almost a Ford dealership level. That said, around 2013 Ford changed the way in which keys could be programmed in to the car and FORScan no longer has that function for newer cars. Some auto locksmiths can clone existing keys (not something that I personally like) but in order to do that you need to have a working key.

Of course a Ford workshop can easily programme a new key in to the car which maybe be your best option. I expect you will have to tow it there but if all is well you can start the engine and drive it home.

FORScan download for free: https://forscan.org/download.html

Connecting cable 'vLinker FS' : https://www.obd2shop.co.uk/wholesale/vgate-vlinker-fs-elm327-for-ford.html?gclid=CjwKCAjwmJeYBhAwEiwAXlg0AWVBSg8DkxUCrLbpbemaTRqI0MRnSqr_7AUeu927hzvGZkUXWHeyoRoCDa4QAvD_BwE

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21 hours ago, Nkaz said:

checked with a diagnostic tool and it says lost communication with ECM/PCM and the code is U0100.

+1 for using Forscan.

The problem with the display you showed is that it does not identify where the DTCs were. Most of the main electronics modules (loads of them on newer cars) can generate DTCs. Since the complaint is: "cannot communicate with the ECM", then it is unlikely the DTC is in the ECM. More likely it is in the BCM or the IC. So it could be a problem with the CAN bus wiring and connectors rather than keys or the ECM. But a fuller diagnosis is needed first.

Forscan might help, But - Usually it needs to connect to the ECM first, so if the ECM is duff, or the bus wiring from the diagnostic connector to ECM is broken, then it will probably not connect at all. But that is still information, narrowing down the problem. If it were just a de-programmed key problem, it would connect and report relevant DTCs.

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the crash data has been reset from the DTCs above, and the reason I wanted to change the ecu was because was told by a mechanic that whenever he’s dealt with Fords that have been in collisions he’s changed the full ecu kit each time and that’s the only thing I hadn’t done, I will check to see if the keys have been properly programmed to the car, by using forscan I will not be able to program the keys so would Ford be the best option to program that key 

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On 8/25/2022 at 12:17 AM, Nkaz said:

This may give you more information on the DTCs in the file attached 

The most striking thing there is the number of Lost Communication errors.

BCM with ABS & both door modules.

RCM with ECM (=PCM or ECU), and invalid data from IPC.

IPC with ECM & ABS

PSCM with both ABS and ECM

IPC with ECM & ABS

The ECM is not reported, maybe Delphi could not locate or talk to it.

If these are one off errors, so that when cleared they do not soon return, then they can be ignored as some result of the impact or subsequent work. But if they keep coming back they are very important.

If the IPC can not talk to the ECM, then the PATS activation fault may well be a result of that. Normally PATS is shared between two (at least) modules for security, it seems that here it is the IPC and the ECM, just like in the Mk2 Focus. It means that quickly changing one module will not defeat PATS. Usually key related problems give a more specific DTC.

I assume you have tried clearing the codes. If the lost communication errors return, then they need to be traced & fixed first. It may not be a faulty ECM. On many other Fords, connection problems in the CAN buses have been as common as muck. I have no wiring info. on a 2016 Fiesta, so cannot say what CAN buses go to each module, what order they are in and where the connectors are. But the 60 ohms resistance test on the diagnostic socket can still be applied as that is a fundamental part of the CAN bus spec. And due to OBD specification and the huge number of diagnostic systems that expect it, the diagnostic connector must almost certainly go to the ECM, from pins 6 &14. So with ignition off, 60 ohms between those pins indicates an intact bus from end to end. 120ohms is a broken bus. Any reading much different from 60 indicates some sort of connection problem.

Also I guess you have checked all fuses in all fuse boxes, especially any marked as being related to the ECM or IPC. If not, it is well worth carefully checking them.

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Just checked ports 6 and 14 and it seems to be fluctuating starting from 80 going Upto 148 can’t attach the video for it as it won’t let me, I’ve got a whole new ecu kit to  rule that one out so I know it won’t be that 

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1 hour ago, Nkaz said:

fluctuating starting from 80 going Upto 148

It should be sitting 'rock solid' at 60 ohms.

Looks like you have a fault with the canbus wiring or either of the 'end of line' modules.

Quick check. Unplug the BCM and see what the resistance value is. Then reconnect the BCM and disconnect the Instrument cluster and again recheck the resistance. That will narrow the fault down to half of the canbus system.

Have you got the full Ford wiring schematic for your car ?

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i will do that check now and no I do not have the wiring schematic I will try and find it 

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The car now starts but does not crank over it struggles then cuts out there was a loose connection at the bottom of passenger footwell, it says ‘engine service now’ the engine has had a full service including glow plugs and all belts done and replaced 

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Fiesta wiring schematics:-

On 8/31/2022 at 8:03 PM, unofix said:

Wiring schematics for Fiesta

Mk7 - 2012 onwards

2017 - 2020

2020 - 2021

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1TZZeRYoX_6lTXN_tS6ZfEuN2dHhdt6SR/view?usp=sharing, https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ghvIf0WBn6SYTqdf2biBR9qs3kPwb4Zs/view?usp=sharing, https://drive.google.com/file/d/1qalYB5510zbnJfwtpTsbyYiFK2U3HUgB/view?usp=sharing

 

I will leave these available until 8th Sept 2022 for anyone who may have a need of them.

 

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1 hour ago, Nkaz said:

‘engine service now’

That's Ford just trying to confuse everyone. The message is extremely misleading and actually means "Engine Broken. Needs garage help"

It has absolutely nothing to do with servicing the car.

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thank you for all your help, got the car cranking now it just won’t idle I think could be the fuel pump, is there inertia switch inside the restraint module I know it’s not a physical thing on the 2016 fiestas or am I wrong and is the only way to fix the fuel cut off switch to get the RCM and send it off to get reset ?

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Mk7 Fiesta fuel shut-off reset procedure - 

1. Switch ignition off.
2. Press the brake pedal and turn key to start position (cranking attempt).
3. Remove your foot from the brake pedal and switch ignition off.
4. Switch ignition on again to re-enable the fuel system

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  • 4 weeks later...

After a long wait and swapping over of different parts the can’t still won’t hold its Idle it starts up then dies instantly I can’t upload the video on here I have taken which doesn’t help 

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