it's just tight .. the tapers lockup with friction .. have another look at focue  video .. when theyre that tight i resort to hitting the side of the hub wher the ball joint enters

 

 

I have a metal pickle fork from euro. My ball joint are 18mm.  I've measured the fork and the gap between forks is 18-19 mm, but as u move down the forks to say halfway the gap only 16mm. I found this out as grease/dirt was only halfway to along the forks.  Is this why I'm having issues getting to joint off or should fork be made like this.

I popped into another local garage he said they simple to do only 4 bolts with the main issue is parting ball joint and 80 pound for both sides to fit. He was on about the ball joint thread going into the hub was a pinch fit and to part the ball joint pinch with a chisel. Maybe I being told rubbish for garage work, if it that hard getting out surely be that hard going back in. 

Thanks guys

there is a tutorial on this .. scroll down and click th pdf link

also lots of discussions on the topic

https://www.fordownersclub.com/forums/topic/74875-control-arm-replacement/#comment-521844

 

 

1 hour ago, madman said:

I popped into another local garage he said they simple to do only 4 bolts with the main issue is parting ball joint and 80 pound for both sides to fit. He was on about the ball joint thread going into the hub was a pinch fit and to part the ball joint pinch with a chisel. Maybe I being told rubbish for garage work, if it that hard getting out surely be that hard going back in. 

He's thinking about a different car.  Mk2 Focus's aren't setup with a pinch bolt there.

If your fork isn't going around the ball shaft, use it just on one prong like a chisel, but be extremely careful not to slip.

I'm going to try again to do the suspension arms again as didn't do them last time and now when I'm in driving 60mph the wheel is shimmering and think these could cause it.

I have fork so I'll try to use one side of it for ball joint as the fork is 18m and joint 18m but fork only fits halfway.

Do I need any other tools have new socket set and spanners.  Do I need wd40 or grease for my suspension arms.

Thanks guys much appreciated 👍

I've given up. Can't shift ball joint tried using 1 prong of pickle fork on the arm side as disc is on the other side and won't budge. 

If I got the whole suspension arm can't I whack the whole arm downwards out of ball joint.

Hi guys

I've managed to change drivers side wishbone I brought a ball splitter made things bit easier.

Now I'm on passengers side wishbone and none off the nuts will not move. I've sprayed WD 40 on them last night ready for today and still won't move, tried wd40, short wrench bar, spanner, and long wrench bar and nothing. Any ideas please, the steering wheel now slightly off center when driving

Hire a body builder?

Seriously, sounds like they've been buzzed up with an impact gun.  If a 3ft breaker bar won't shift them, you'll probably need an impact gun to do it.  Preferably air powered as I doubt a battery gun will have enough torque.

May need to have wheel alignment done after replacing wishbones to correct the steering centre.

I've now got wishbone off passengers side and I can't line up the bolts. On drivers side I put the two rear bolts in first then the big long front nut, tried same on passengers door no luck.  Please help.

3 minutes ago, madman said:

I've now got wishbone off passengers side and I can't line up the bolts. On drivers side I put the two rear bolts in first then the big long front nut, tried same on passengers door no luck.  Please help.

Try putting the front bolt in first?

Having a nightmare. I've now taken off the wishbone again. I had rear 2 bolts on couldn't line up the front bolt. So I took the wishbone off. 

What's the best way to put it back on thanks 

3 minutes ago, madman said:

Having a nightmare. I've now taken off the wishbone again. I had rear 2 bolts on couldn't line up the front bolt. So I took the wishbone off. 

What's the best way to put it back on thanks 

There isn't really a best way.  Just whatever works for you.  Keep persevering with it and it'll go in eventually.

(PS - I really don't envy you working on the car in this weather!)

Can't get bolts in. I've jacked up the hub, I hammered the bolt I've wiggled it. 

Yeah it's very hot.

 

Hi guys.

I replaced the driver's side wishbone arm and moved onto passengers side and was having a nightmare with the bolts being lined up. I tried all day to get it aligned and couldn't.  

I ended up calling a local mobile mechanic who's been round before he tried and couldn't do it either and he charged me 30 quid to try getting new one on and then he put my old wishbone back on and wheel.  Then he looked at the old one and the new one on top of each other and found that the long nut bush wasn't the same as the original it was out alignment, now I got a wonky steering wheel that's slightly out from replacing only drivers side wishbone arm until I get a replacement wishbone arm after I send this one back. 

Update on the passengers side I couldn't do it. I payed a mechanic as thought I was doing something wrong and he couldn't do it either. The long horizontal mounting bolt was few mill out and hitting the metal surrounding the screw thread hole . I've had to contact the seller for replacement.  

Now I have a replacement do I bother trying it again as I've looked on the date on arm and has same date manufacture may last year

Could you accurately measure the one on the car (without removing it) to check length against the new one?

How, it was the long horizontal nut before on the faulty one was few mil out. 

What measurements can I get from that.

Aftermarket parts cheaper then fords they wanted over 300 for pair 

I guess that's a 'no' then...

I can't imagine the same branded arm would be produced to a different spec within the same month.  So unless their quality control is horrific then it's probably the same.  If you can't take any useful measurements with it fitted then the only way to know would be to try fitting it.

I've just contacted the actual supplier of the part not the middle man from eBay the part not any recalls they sold 30 this month with no comebacks. 

All done. This wishbone went on bit easier little bit of struggle wiggling bolts in. 

Had a little test drive. Would u recommended getting it tracked. Looked at Halfords, front wheels 40 quid and 4 wheels 75 pound.

8 minutes ago, madman said:

All done. This wishbone went on bit easier little bit of struggle wiggling bolts in. 

Had a little test drive. Would u recommended getting it tracked. Looked at Halfords, front wheels 40 quid and 4 wheels 75 pound.

Yes, get all 4 wheels tracked as rear toe is adjustable on the Focus. 

Make sure rear wishbones don't need replacing otherwise you'll have to track it twice.

I'd recommend a Hunter machine if you can find one locally.

Is it possible to do your own tracking at home? Is there a way

1 hour ago, madman said:

Is it possible to do your own tracking at home? Is there a way

Technically yes, but it's not easy to get perfect.

You can create a string 'box' around the car at the height of the centre caps, then measure the distance from the string to the front and rear of each rim to determine whether the wheels are toeing in or out.

Or you can use a TrackAce kit like this. http://www.trackace.co.uk/

Honestly, I tried it once on a sloping gravel driveway and quickly realized I'd rather just pay for a professional job! 

Thanks everyone.

I looked at few videos got make a string box around your car and measure from rim to string 

Could u put a spirit level across a wheel to see if the wheel is straight. 

5 minutes ago, madman said:

Could u put a spirit level across a wheel to see if the wheel is straight. 

Only if you tip the car onto it's side first.