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Lights on dash flash while driving

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  • Author

Another update not good

 

Driving home this evening at 10PM at night both my headlights blew on the carriageway lucky I had full beam to get me to a service station. 

 

This fault is getting very dangerous now I may have to take the car off the road unfortunately 😕



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    StephenFord

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  • Author

Ok another update

 

I was sitting in my car setting up a phone mount and I had the heat blowing on number one and noticed the car was tripping and flashing the dash lights. 

 

So I took off fascia plate and removed the radio and the plug that controls the (A/C) and (RECIRCULATING) button I removed that plug and switched on the blower again and the car hasn't tripped once!

I have now drove home and car hasn't tripped once so I want to know we're does those wires go to? 

 

However when I'm sitting idle and turn the steering Sharp enough it trips the car so maybe the power steering pump is on its way out? 

The electro-hydraulic PAS pump takes a huge amount of power.  The fact your bulbs popped yesterday as well suggests that the voltage isn't being regulated safely in your car.

  • Author
26 minutes ago, TomsFocus said:

The electro-hydraulic PAS pump takes a huge amount of power.  The fact your bulbs popped yesterday as well suggests that the voltage isn't being regulated safely in your car.

What regulates the power? 

39 minutes ago, Jcwutang92 said:

What regulates the power? 

The voltage regulator in the alternator.  Electronically controlled by the PCM.

  • Author
3 hours ago, TomsFocus said:

The voltage regulator in the alternator.  Electronically controlled by the PCM.

Hmm 🤔 you may be into something every electric thing I use the power fluctuates for a slight second and then back some maybe yes the power is not being regulated correctly I will check 

  • 1 month later...
  • Author

Update.

 

I changed the alternator and issue is still here. 

I will check GEM and replace it too.

Does it need reprogramming?

15 minutes ago, Jcwutang92 said:

Update.

 

I changed the alternator and issue is still here. 

I will check GEM and replace it too.

Does it need reprogramming?

On Mk2 it needs reprogramming. They copy an paste some data from the old to the replacement.

Keep us updated!

  • Author
4 minutes ago, ntelas said:

On Mk2 it needs reprogramming. They copy an paste some data from the old to the replacement.

Keep us updated!

Ok no worries man thanks. 

 

I will keep you guys updated. 

Removed and refitted?  Or just removed?

PCM isn't getting the PATS signal, so there's a broken connection somewhere.

  • Author
Just now, TomsFocus said:

Removed and refitted?  Or just removed?

PCM isn't getting the PATS signal, so there's a broken connection somewhere.

Sorry I took it off to check for corrosion etc and refitted it's showing

 

Engine malfunction

Transmission malfunction

And doesn't show the mileage etc 

DTC dash codes are in that video

I litterly drove an hour home and just got home and decided to work on it and now car won't start.

I wonder if the connections aren't seated properly?

6 minutes ago, Jcwutang92 said:

I wonder if the connections aren't seated properly?

Hopefully it's just that.

For anyone else, we'd be suggesting the classic cluster solder issue.

  • Author
Just now, TomsFocus said:

Hopefully it's just that.

For anyone else, we'd be suggesting the classic cluster solder issue.

I hope it's that because I got it resoldered already 

7 minutes ago, Jcwutang92 said:

I hope it's that because I got it resoldered already 

I know. :sad:

While you've got the plug apart, it might be worth checking all of the pins to make sure none of them are loose.  I have had a connection issue like this before where a female pin was just slightly too wide and making a poor connection.  Easy fix if you can find it, just need to squeeze the pins back together with needle nose pliers, very difficult to spot when they're all held in a multiplug though.  

  • Author
4 minutes ago, TomsFocus said:

I know. :sad:

While you've got the plug apart, it might be worth checking all of the pins to make sure none of them are loose.  I have had a connection issue like this before where a female pin was just slightly too wide and making a poor connection.  Easy fix if you can find it, just need to squeeze the pins back together with needle nose pliers, very difficult to spot when they're all held in a multiplug though.  

I'm going to try keep reseating it a few times and then try what you said thanks man not what I need before work tomorrow car was away all week getting a new alternator and steering rack 😔

  • Author

So turns out it wasn't seated properly but still no start 😔

Is this the car with all those ‘U’ codes? Have you checked the resistance on the can busses?

guys on here can tell you how, never done it myself.

  • Author
Just now, RL123 said:

Is this the car with all those ‘U’ codes? Have you checked the resistance on the can busses?

guys on here can tell you how, never done it myself.

Haven't checked them wouldn't know what to check 

  • Author

Got it going thank goodness!

 

One of the pins was bent slightly so bent it straight again and took off the red piece on the bottom of the connector and she fired straight up! 

Phew! 

  • Author

Ok update:

 

I'm going to jynx myself but I maybe have fixed this flashing issue unintentionally with the C90 connector last week. Ever since I have removed that C90 connector and got the car started again the car hasn't flashed and lights etc as I was explaining at the start of this thread. 

So maybe whoever is having the issue I have complained about maybe take a look at the C90 connector on your car but beware look at what happened me so proceed with caution. 

  • 1 month later...
  • Author

@ntelas did you have any luck? 

1 minute ago, Jcwutang92 said:

@ntelas did you have any luck? 

It hasn't done it for months. It only did once around 3 months ago and that was it. The lcd screen still flickers as it did though. 
 

I don't know if it's the lower temperatures that made it stop(summer ended) or it was something I moved. For sure though I had removed and resitted the big connector(c90?) and this was I believe around the end of summer.
 

For now I'm keeping my fingers crossed it doesn't come back around summer with the higher temps.

  • Author
Just now, ntelas said:

It hasn't done it for months. It only did once around 3 months ago and that was it. The lcd screen still flickers as it did though. 
 

I don't know if it's the lower temperatures that made it stop(summer ended) or it was something I moved. For sure though I had removed and resitted the big connector(c90?) and this was I believe around the end of summer.
 

For now I'm keeping my fingers crossed it doesn't come back around summer with the higher temps.

Well that's good at least it's not doing it for you now especially in winter. Glad to hear it! All good for me too 😃

Just now, Jcwutang92 said:

Well that's good at least it's not doing it for you now especially in winter. Glad to hear it! All good for me too 😃

What makes me skeptical is that I have this other issue with the temperatures. On days where it reaches 35*C+, suddenly all my speakers work. I haven't heard them since the summer also. Only the from right plays normally. I have the balance set to 5L to hear the left correctly balanced and that depends on the day. All electricians told me the speakers are blown but I don't believe them. I heard them play crystal clear when it was 35 degrees outside. It's a cable somewhere.

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