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2011 fiesta not starting

Featured Replies

Hi everyone, could do with a bit of help with my daughters fiesta

2011 fiesta 1.4 diesel on trying to start, starter turns over a few times the screeches a bit, sounds like starter is retracting,

apply direct current to starter and it turns over perfectly.

No codes stored

No current to injectors on starting

All relays and fuzes checked

Removed battery and checked and cleaned up all ground wires

Next lead I'm told to follow is to remove clocks and have them checked

Anyone any other ideas that we might have missed, thanks for reading.



Any water under the battery or around 

Any water under the battery or around 

  • Author
2 hours ago, kry21 said:

Any water under the battery or around 

Not a lot but there was a little, I've attached some data from forscan as I got to go to car this eve it's at a friends house.

There was quite a few codes, first time using forscan so hopefully I got it right.

 

 

fiesta log 2-11-23.txt

6 hours ago, Marty71 said:

2011 fiesta 1.4 diesel

That is almost certainly the infamous dry solder joint fault of the Instrument Cluster which is especially common on the Fiesta of the 2010 - 2012 age range.

Use FORScan and clear all the codes. Then re-run a scan and see what codes come back. Give the dashboard a good couple of "thumps" with your hand above where the instrument cluster is. I expect you will see faults change and/or DTC's will appear.

Instrument cluster repair and refurbishment is around £90 and typically takes 3 days. There are many companies advertising the service on eBay and other places. @rd457 offers a repair service.

  • Author

Thanks so much for the reply, I had removed the cluster and waiting for a friend to contact a local guy who does this work so hopefully that will work, I will report back and let you know how it goes.

 

Many thanks :thumbsup:

 

4 minutes ago, Marty71 said:

to contact a local guy who does this work

Ah!!

Just realised your in southern Ireland.

If you have a problem getting it repaired then @StephenFord knows a repair company in NI if that is of any help.

I hate to contradict unofix, but I'm actually not so confident that this will be the common cracked cluster joint problem. I've only handled one Mk7 Fiesta cluster, a 2010 vintage, but it's solder joints were immaculate, no sign of cracking at all, which makes me believe that this type is unaffected by that problem.

Just to be certain this vehicle has the type of cluster that I think it does, here's a pic:

type5-example.thumb.jpg.ac8dfa39d67e8183519a18e1e91b75fc.jpg

Here's a view of the main wiring connector pins of the unit I looked (where the cracks always occur on other models) - absolutely pristine:

IMG_20230523_190635.thumb.jpg.e6a1a38ec7cf41c66976cacb52542b06.jpg

One is obviously a very low sample rate though, so by all means have it checked out if you wish. If it does have cracked joints, or some other problem, I'd be very interested to know the details / see pics if possible.

6 minutes ago, rd457 said:

One is obviously a very low sample rate though, so by all means have it checked out if you wish. If it does have cracked joints, or some other problem, I'd be very interested to know the details / see pics if possible.

You may well be right which could mean this is a BCM issue which would be a lot worse 😕

Let's hope the OP keeps us updated 👍

10 hours ago, unofix said:

Ah!!

Just realised your in southern Ireland.

If you have a problem getting it repaired then @StephenFord knows a repair company in NI if that is of any help.

If you do decide to get cluster repaired, and want to keep it, 'on the island', these guys did mine, excellent, not expensive, and very quick turnaround...

https://www.hobsonelectronics.com/

  • Author
9 hours ago, rd457 said:

I hate to contradict unofix, but I'm actually not so confident that this will be the common cracked cluster joint problem. I've only handled one Mk7 Fiesta cluster, a 2010 vintage, but it's solder joints were immaculate, no sign of cracking at all, which makes me believe that this type is unaffected by that problem.

Just to be certain this vehicle has the type of cluster that I think it does, here's a pic:

type5-example.thumb.jpg.ac8dfa39d67e8183519a18e1e91b75fc.jpg

Here's a view of the main wiring connector pins of the unit I looked (where the cracks always occur on other models) - absolutely pristine:

One is obviously a very low sample rate though, so by all means have it checked out if you wish. If it does have cracked joints, or some other problem, I'd be very interested to know the details / see pics if possible.

Yes that it the same cluster,  I might as well get it checked to be sure, so after inspection if the cluster is ok what's my next step?

 

Thanks again for taking the time to respond.

 

4 hours ago, Marty71 said:

I might as well get it checked to be sure, so after inspection if the cluster is ok what's my next step?

The fact there are so many DTC's and a good number of them are "Ux xxx" communication errors then you have to be looking at places in the car where many or all of the circuits pass through. The number one place to look is the instrument cluster, followed very closely by the Body Control Module (BCM).

Wait and see what happens after the IC has been checked/refurbished before jumping in to checking the BCM.

  • Author

So the cluster has been checked and it's fine, the guy mentioned this gen fiesta had a relay and fuze issue (pcm and tcm fuzes and relays) that makes it seem like an immob issue.

Just to note which I may not have mentioned before, about 3 weeks prior to car stopping permanently it had this issue for about 15 mins then went on as normal, thought at the time it might have been starter on the way out at the time but on inspection it was fine.

Won't get to car till saturday to have another go, I'll put the IC back in and go over all the wiring and fuzes again.

So where to now once I refit IC?

 

Anyone got a wiring diagram for this model please?

 

 

Do another code scan with Forscan first, see what codes appear.

  • Author

Hi lads, bit of a story with this car but hopefully getting somewhere.

Got the IC back which the guy said was 99% ok but he did do a little work on as he wasn't quite happy with it.

So fitted back into car, cleared codes, replaced all old fuzes just in case and car started and I drove it home.

So later that day car again wouldn't start, the immobliser light kept flashing, found a blown fuze and had a B10BD code -additional fault circuit open and fuze kept blowing.

By accident I heard some buzzing while sat in car and traced it to the elec mirror switch, so set it to off, cleared codes and car started.

Now I did adjust the mirrors for myself to drive the car home so next question is does the wiring for the elec mirrors have any relationship to the immobiliser/central locking etc that would have caused the B10BD-additional fault circuit open that possibly caused this new immob issue, possibly bad switch shorted to ground or am I off track with that.

Next thing I'll try is to disconnect the mirror switch as it's loose and def not workin properly and see how it goes.

Thoughts welcome 🙂

 

  • Author

So after all the time put into cleaning up earth connections getting the IC inspected we're back to having a non starting car again.

Still have this code- B10BD-additional fault circuit open.

Can anyone shed any light on it for me?

 

2 hours ago, Marty71 said:

Still have this code- B10BD-additional fault circuit open

Does the steering wheel have multi-function switches on it ? If so are they all working ?

  • Author
1 hour ago, unofix said:

Does the steering wheel have multi-function switches on it ? If so are they all working ?

Yes, and no they are not working and have not been for over a year, I believe the clock spring needs to be replaced.

I'll just order it and see what happens once fitted, nothing to loose at this point as I was gonna do it at some point anyway. 

46 minutes ago, Marty71 said:

I believe the clock spring needs to be replaced.

Well there's a strange coincidence !!

I've just had the same fault on a Transit and the fault is the clock spring. Error B10BD:13 unable to set the date and time on the clock and intermittent, no crank, no start. It was a 50/50 call as to whether it was the switch pack or the clock spring and since we had a 'spare' identical Transit we first swapped the switch pack but no luck with that. No idea why that is causing intermittent no start other than perhaps causing a canbus fault.

Think you need to try replacing the clock spring and see what happens.

  • Author
1 hour ago, unofix said:

Well there's a strange coincidence !!

I've just had the same fault on a Transit and the fault is the clock spring. Error B10BD:13 unable to set the date and time on the clock and intermittent, no crank, no start. It was a 50/50 call as to whether it was the switch pack or the clock spring and since we had a 'spare' identical Transit we first swapped the switch pack but no luck with that.

Think you need to try replacing the clock spring and see what happens.

Any airbag or crash fault codes?

 

10 minutes ago, Marty71 said:

Any airbag or crash fault codes?

No, only the one DTC

dtc.JPG

  • Author

Interesting, found the below ref ford codes but strange car ran for ages with clock spring not working.

 

FORD Steering errors

U3000 Steering Wheel Control Module Malfunction

U3001 Incorrect shutdown of control device. The cause of the problem may be the firmware of the microprocessor module

B10BD Malfunction of multi-function switch. Most likely, we are talking about a device mounted on the steering wheel. It is necessary to check the connection of the switch to the network

B1342 Internal malfunction of the steering system block First of all, it is required to check and clean the contacts on the module connector

C1099 Failure of the electric motor of the steering system. The motor is subject to diagnosis and replacement in the event of a breakdown. The reason may be that the drive has poor contact with the network

C1306 Incorrect steering angle detection. The cause of problem C1306 may consist in the sensor and the control module.

C102D Steering rack mechanical failure. The user must visually diagnose the unit for damage.

U0131 Lack of communication with the microprocessor control unit of the power steering system (Power Steering). With error 0131, contact verification on the module is required.

  • 2 weeks later...
  • Author

So back again with no good news, fitted new clockspring and steering wheel controls now work but still no start. 

This morning I disconnected the crank sensor to test and car behaved like it should and cut power to starter almost instantly. 

I connected with forscan and no codes, see pic attached, forscan can't see car cranking and what's the deal with the throttle position sensor voltage? , totally stuck on this. 

 

 

IMG_20231125_104423.jpg

  • 2 weeks later...
  • Author

Update: Another day of trying to get this car started so disconnected fuel lines to/from filter for a sec to check there was diesel in lines 2 mins later car started without hesitation, kept it running for a bit and noticed injector 3 with a slight fuel leak, switched off and on several times this eve will try again tomorrow.

Will change injector seal when I get a chance and maybe fuel filter

So, possible causes of non start- airlock somewhere? injector trouble?

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