1 minute ago, TomsFocus said:

Are you using the laptop version of Forscan or a mobile version?  I've heard that the mobile one can't be used for programming.

I was using the phone version, went to the laptop version when I tried fiddling around with the programming the other day

2 minutes ago, TomsFocus said:

Well, it can't be driven now, so I don't see how it can get any worse!  

This is very very true lol

19 minutes ago, TomsFocus said:

Are you using the laptop version of Forscan or a mobile version?  I've heard that the mobile one can't be used for programming.

It will have to be the licensed FORScan version on a Windows laptop.

Models 2013 onwards can not have the immobiliser part of the key reprogrammed in to the car, but this should not be necessary when you swap the BCM as it does not hold the key information.

1 minute ago, unofix said:

It will have to be the licensed FORScan version on a Windows laptop.

Models 2013 onwards can not have the immobiliser part of the key reprogrammed in to the car, but this should not be necessary when you swap the BCM as it does not hold the key information.

So when I swap the BCM all I need to do is copy the Asbuilt data and the CCM, and the key should do itself? 

Yes 👍

I have just clocked something, my car is showing the error "Steering lock malfunction Stop Safely", however, every other instance of this error I've seen on the web shows "Steering lock malfunction Service Now". Could it be that the car thinks it is running? 

 

 

I also can't find any instances of my EXACT error codes showing up "B1026:94" and "B1026:12" in fords or anywhere in their manuals.

I've found a bit more info on the "94" code in the Landrover Freelander manual:

"Status messages are received from the SCL when SCL should be turned off"" "Carry out the pinpoint tests associated to this DTC using the manufacturer approved diagnostic system"

And more on the "12" code in the Jaguar XF workshop manual"

"Steering column lock ground circuit - short to power" "Refer to the electrical circuit diagrams and check steering column lock ground circuit for short to power"

 

 

Finally, there is another error code that we haven't even looked at "B11D1:86", which according to the Jaguar one is:

"LIN Bus header error; driver switchpack internal fault" "Refer to the electrical circuit diagrams and check the LIN Bus circuit between the driver door window switch and the door module. Check the connectors for integrity and security. Clear the DTC and retest. If the problem persists, renew the driver door window switch"

Although I have tested the driver door switches and they all work ok...

 

 

Also @unofix, I have no idea what a CAN bus is or how it works, but are you absolutely certain that the stop light switch has nothing to do with it as it appears to be in the same CAN bus as the ESCL LIN? (sorry if I'm talking nonsense)

I have also had errors pop up occasionally/rarely regarding "Start button illumination" which you can also see in the top right of the above CAN diagram. 

ALSO the interior light relay is connected to this, which share's the same fuse as the driver door switch pack of which I have an error with also

 

Sorry, I know this is a long winded post. 

I've attached the wiring diagram below, it's page 21. "START / CRANKING KV CONTROL"

Read this comment somewhere else "It was the crank sensor. This tells the ECU that the engine is turning and what it's exact postion is. The reason for the lights and radio problems was that the ECU outputs a signal on the CAN bus to BCM to the tell the vehicle electrics whether the engine is STOPED, CRANKING, or RUNNING."

Does my car think that it is running so isn't sending a signal on the CAN bus to the ESCL relay and the interior light relay? Hence why the message says "STOP SAFELY" and not the usual "SERVICE NOW"?

Focus 2011 Wiring.pdf

CANBUS is like a telephone wire.  It carries data between all the modules.  It's not just basic voltage on/off like conventional wires.

The steering lock disengages when the brake pedal switch is pressed (as long as it detects a keyless fob signal in range) so the pedal switch is definitely part of that circuit.  You can test the pedal switch on Forscan live data if you want.

You should also be able to test the crank position on Forscan live data.

That is an interesting thought about the car thinking it's running.  I thought the 'stop safely' message seemed unusual.  That may be a red herring though.

12 minutes ago, TomsFocus said:

CANBUS is like a telephone wire.  It carries data between all the modules.  It's not just basic voltage on/off like conventional wires.

The steering lock disengages when the brake pedal switch is pressed (as long as it detects a keyless fob signal in range) so the pedal switch is definitely part of that circuit.  You can test the pedal switch on Forscan live data if you want.

You should also be able to test the crank position on Forscan live data.

That is an interesting thought about the car thinking it's running.  I thought the 'stop safely' message seemed unusual.  That may be a red herring though.

Can you use forscan live data on the android version or does it need to be the PC version? Not used this feature before.

 

Hopefully I'm onto something 😂

7 minutes ago, TheDaman said:

Can you use forscan live data on the android version or does it need to be the PC version? Not used this feature before.

 

Hopefully I'm onto something 😂

You can use live data on the mobile app.

I'm almost certain I'm on to something here and can't believe I didn't check the B11D1:86-2F fault code before (driver switch pack). They're all connected to the same CANBUS (both the ESCL RELAY and the INTERIOR LIGHT RELAY.

At least I hope I'm onto something 😅 need to temper my expectations 

 

25 minutes ago, TheDaman said:

At least I hope I'm onto something ...

God I hope so, this drama is lengthier than a Peter Jackson movie LOL

2 hours ago, TomsFocus said:

You can use live data on the mobile app.

Can I also check the Clutch bot switch with this? I have a feeling this could be the culprit too.

3 hours ago, TheDaman said:

They're all connected to the same CANBUS

I sure hope so. All modules and devices are connected to the Canbus. By now I expect the battery State Of Charge (SOC) will be getting low and the car will start to disable things like the interior lights in order to save power. Have you checked the battery terminal voltage today with a multimeter ?

5 minutes ago, unofix said:

I sure hope so. All modules and devices are connected to the Canbus. By now I expect the battery State Of Charge (SOC) will be getting low and the car will start to disable things like the interior lights in order to save power. Have you check the battery terminal voltage today with a multimeter ?

Oh right, so even though that drawing shows that they are all connected and coming out of that CANBUS it doesn't mean that they are connected in terms of needing eachother to operate?

 

No I haven't checked today, will check when I'm home from work 😬

1 minute ago, TheDaman said:

so even though that drawing shows that they are all connected and coming out of that CANBUS it doesn't mean that they are connected in terms of needing eachother to operate?

As Tom put it, Canbus is just like a telephone network. It allows information to be passed between modules, for example the accelerator pedal can pass information about it's position to the throttle body over the network at the exact same time as the headlight sensor may be detecting its getting dark and sending a message over the Canbus telling the BCM to turn on the lights. To a large degree you can think of the BCM as the telephone exchange, information is constantly being sent and received by all devices connected to it, but each device will only pick up instructions that are intended for them.

1 hour ago, TheDaman said:

Can I also check the Clutch bot switch with this?

Yes.  There are two clutch switches so if it's not named clearly in the PID list then just check both together.

See below, one photo with both the clutch and brake pressed, one without.

Questions:

1) should the CPP be showing nearer to 12v rather than around 4v

2)should the brake switch parameter (in orange) also be on?

@unofix @TomsFocus admit it you guys, you're loving this thread 😂

@StephenFord do feel free to jump in at anytime !!

Perhaps you could recommend a good battery charger as the OP's must be quite low by now. A photo would be required of course 🤣

I hate this car 🙃

I think I know the answer to the clutch one, does anyone know the answer about the brake switch? I promise I'll leave you all alone after this 😂

1 hour ago, TheDaman said:

See below, one photo with both the clutch and brake pressed, one without.

Questions:

1) should the CPP be showing nearer to 12v rather than around 4v

2)should the brake switch parameter (in orange) also be on?

A lot of sensors work on 0-5v instead of 0-12v so that looks fine to me.

Not sure why you've got two seemingly identical options for brake switch.  I think there's only one pedal switch.  The other may be for the handbrake lever.

17 minutes ago, TomsFocus said:

A lot of sensors work on 0-5v instead of 0-12v so that looks fine to me.

Not sure why you've got two seemingly identical options for brake switch.  I think there's only one pedal switch.  The other may be for the handbrake lever.

Thanks for the reply, cars going in the bin 👍🏻

@unofix you can have the battery if you want 😂

I wonder if there’s two sensors in the brake switch and one of them is faulty - would certainly be a fail safe especially when it comes to disengaging cruise control. 

6 minutes ago, dontpannic said:

I wonder if there’s two sensors in the brake switch and one of them is faulty - would certainly be a fail safe especially when it comes to disengaging cruise control. 

This was my thinking too, I did test and the handbrake switch is a different option in the PID list so it's definitely not that.

Going to pick up another brake switch tomorrow just in case. Going to assume it's just money down the drain though 🙃

I'm not sure if I have my cable with me today to see if I can get the same data from the desktop version of Forscan and see if both switch sensor outputs trigger when pressing the brake.