Hi all I have stumbled across a problem with my ford focus 1.5 ecoblue the engine turns over fine and fuel gets all the way to the fuel pressure line but nothing is coming out of any of the 4 the injectors they are completely dry. I have run forscan on it and no fault codes apart from u3003 battery voltage which I believe was caused by the engine being cranked over a few times so battery back on charge. Does anyone know what fuse or relay powers these injectors as the mechanic advised he sees a signal to the injectors but no power. He also said all fuses have been checked. Any help would be much appreciated 

Bring up RPM in Live Data in FORScan and check that it is not showing zero when the Engine is being cranked.

It is probably not this but if there is no signal from the Crankshaft Position Sensor then the Injectors will not fire and it will cost you nothing to check.

Hi thank you for taking the time to reply. I will get them to check this ASAP and let you know the results. 👍

Also just an added bit of information the garage also said when trying to get the engine to run off easy start it fires up for a few seconds then shuts down immediately like someone turned the engine off 

There isn't a fuse or relay for injectors.  They are controlled and powered directly by the PCM.

Crank sensor is a good idea.  Also the immobiliser can stop injectors firing, though there isn't a 'theft alert' shown in those fault codes.  Is the steering lock releasing when you press the clutch?  Have you tried pressing both clutch & brake to start?

Hi there I will be honest I have not tried starting with both the brake and clutch down just the clutch but can certainly ask the garage to give it a try. Yes the steering lock releases. I have already passed the info about the crank sensor. I will pass this on also. If any of these work I will advise accordingly as this mag also help someone else with similar issues. Thanks again for all the help

Have you checked fuel is getting to the top of the injectors? That will rule out a fuel rail blockage. Also I do believe there should be a pid to see if the injectors are being commanded to fire you can check while you are cranking.

Hi yes fuel is getting to the top of the injectors with plenty of pressure as when the garage did that test they said diesel came out with plenty of pressure. Never heard of the PID or how to test this will try to look it up though thanks

I have passed all the information on to the garage awaiting to see if anything manages to get it started. I have also looked up this PID on YouTube very interesting things can be done with Forscan thanks for this also

Crank sensor has been ordered to rule out this possibility. Garage seem to believe the ecu is damaged because all 4 Injectors fail to spray any fuel at all they are all completely dry. It also will not run for more than a few secs on easy start and I am assuming because it's a diesel there is no fuel cut off switch on these cars ?

If the injectors won't fire, then the engine won't keep running after the EasyStart has been used up.

That does rule out the battery/starter motor at least.  It doesn't rule out the crank sensor yet, as that may not be registering the correct speed in the ECU.  Needs to see over 300rpm in order to fire the injectors iirc.

These do use an electric tank fuel pump, so there may be a fuel cut off.  Although it's part of the ECU software now, not a separate button.  However, if you've got high fuel pressure in the rail when cranking, then that is not the fault.  I would also expect to see a warning for 'crash detected' or similar on the dash.

Must admit I'm not convinced the rail pressure is high enough.  If the garage just loosened one of the nuts to see if diesel squirted out that's not a very precise test.  Needs to be over 200bar while cranking iirc.

24 minutes ago, TomsFocus said:

Must admit I'm not convinced the rail pressure is high enough.  If the garage just loosened one of the nuts to see if diesel squirted out that's not a very precise test.  Needs to be over 200bar while cranking

My money's on the high pressure fuel pump 👍

Ok I will go back today and use forscan to check the rail pressure whilst it's being cranked over and see what pressure it's producing if it's not producing over 200bar then do I order a high pressure fuel pump? I just would have thought the ecu would have thrown up a fault code related to something but nothing just low voltage faults when the battery starts to loose it's charge from being cranked over. Crank sensor should be here on Thursday also ford say non available off the shelf. Also regarding the easy start they don't stop spraying it just turns off after a few seconds like someone switched off the ignition 

8 minutes ago, Renegade- said:

if it's not producing over 200bar then do I order a high pressure fuel pump?

No, check the crank sensor is working and no faults with the immobiliser system, as suggested

17 minutes ago, Renegade- said:

I will go back today and use forscan to check the rail pressure whilst it's being cranked

Also bring up the PID for RPM, if the Crank Sensor is not working Live Data on FORScan will show zero, if it shows 2 or 300 RPM then it is working.

Hopefully you will get your money back for the new Crank Sensor if the old one is ok.

Ok I will try that today when I head down to the garage later after work. Not done this before with Forscan but I am sure I can find something online to point me in the right direction. Regarding the immobiliser the car remote opens and closes the door there are no immobiliser faults and no warning messages on the dash either.

24 minutes ago, Renegade- said:

Not done this before with Forscan but I am sure I can find something online to point me in the right direction.

Have a read here, it is not as difficult as it looks when you have FORScan connected.    https://forscan.org/documentation_13.html

Edit - Read the bit from Dashboard onwards. 

57 minutes ago, Renegade- said:

Also regarding the easy start they don't stop spraying it just turns off after a few seconds like someone switched off the ignition 

The whole car turns off?  Or the engine stalls but dash lights and ignition still on?

If the engine stalls while it's still getting EasyStart then the throttle plate is probably closing.  You can unplug the throttle body while testing, it should be open as default.

As others have said, next step is using Forscan to check the RPM and fuel rail pressure.  As well as doing a full scan for faults.

The immobiliser part is separate from remote locking despite both being fitted inside the same keyfob.  But I would expect a dash message if it was an immobiliser fault.

Ok thank you to all who have looked into this issue for me. I am very grateful and will implement the tests later today and provide the feedback with screen shots to aid. Also the ignition stays on just trying to give an example of how the car cuts out after a few seconds of the engine running (can see how that's a bad example) hopefully my reply clarifies it just stops running regardless that they are still spraying easy start

51 minutes ago, Tizer said:

Have a read here, it is not as difficult as it looks when you have FORScan connected.    https://forscan.org/documentation_13.html

Edit - Read the bit from Dashboard onwards. 

Thanks for this very helpful 

When you you are looking at live Data in FORScan bring as well as the RPM bring up Fuel Rail Pressure and there may be a few Fuel related ones as well. One of them might be the Fuel Pump Duty Cycle, I would expect that to be quite high when cranking while the car tries to build up pressure. 

The PID's you can see vary from car to car.

Also all the PID's you need should be in the PCM Module.

14 minutes ago, Tizer said:

When you you are looking at live Data in FORScan bring as well as the RPM bring up Fuel Rail Pressure and there may be a few Fuel related ones as well. One of them might be the Fuel Pump Duty Cycle, I would expect that to be quite high when cranking while the car tries to build up pressure. 

The PID's you can see vary from car to car.

Also all the PID's you need should be in the PCM Module.

Thank you this is helpful to know as once I am there will be trying to figure this stuff out. 

3 hours ago, TomsFocus said:

The whole car turns off?  Or the engine stalls but dash lights and ignition still on?

If the engine stalls while it's still getting EasyStart then the throttle plate is probably closing.  You can unplug the throttle body while testing, it should be open as default.

As others have said, next step is using Forscan to check the RPM and fuel rail pressure.  As well as doing a full scan for faults.

The immobiliser part is separate from remote locking despite both being fitted inside the same keyfob.  But I would expect a dash message if it was an immobiliser fault.

Hi just a quick update tha garage said they have had it running on easy start but did not tell me they did as you mentioned disconnected plug to throttle body and used a screw driver to keep it open then they said it runs just fine. Issue still remains non of the 4 injectors spray any fuel so I will have to still do the tests as described but I cannot today as the garage says they are busy with other vehicles and possibly tomorrow I can do the tests 

That is strange and I was going to suggest that if the Crank Sensor was ok, you could easily check the Throttle Valve position with FORScan, there should be a PID for it, but I did not want to overload you with too much information. A closed Throttle Valve will not allow the Engine to run.

The normal operation of it is that when running it is open to varying degrees to control the amount of EGR and DPF Regeneration. When the Engine is switched off it fully closes for a few seconds to kill the Engine then quickly does a open and close cycle to shake off any crud then parks itself fully open ready for the next restart.

It is strange that from what you have been told it is defaulting to fully closed when trying to start the car. 

11 minutes ago, Tizer said:

That is strange and I was going to suggest that if the Crank Sensor was ok, you could easily check the Throttle Valve position with FORScan, there should be a PID for it, but I did not want to overload you with too much information. A closed Throttle Valve will not allow the Engine to run.

The normal operation of it is that when running it is open to varying degrees to control the amount of EGR and DPF Regeneration. When the Engine is switched off it fully closes for a few seconds to kill the Engine then quickly does a open and close cycle to shake off any crud then parks itself fully open ready for the next restart.

It is strange that from what you have been told it is defaulting to fully closed when trying to start the car. 

Ok yes that's correct as you said by default it's open but the garage said they unplugged it and then used a screwdriver to keep it open at which this point when they said it started on the easy start and ran fine