8 minutes ago, wali110 said:

by getting a jump again from the other Fiesta.

You do know that ANY car will do for a jump start ?

9 hours ago, unofix said:

You do know that ANY car will do for a jump start ?

Saying that, a larger battery, generally fitted to larger cars, would do a better job if they have access to one of those.

10 hours ago, unofix said:

You do know that ANY car will do for a jump start ?

yes of course haha, I have had many fiestas in the past and my Brother also drives one. He's got the 09 1.4 petrol which is more reliable than my ecoboost. I have been having to borrow his car many times since getting the ecoboost.

But thanks for the advice 👍

I am still at work and will start working on the Car again and just wanted to ask if it is normal for my coolant reservoir tank to sound and behave like a washing machine when I press the start button on the Dash (not starting car), it may just be the water circulating I suppose ?

12 minutes ago, wali110 said:

I am still at work and will start working on the Car again and just wanted to ask if it is normal for my coolant reservoir tank to sound and behave like a washing machine when I press the start button on the Dash (not starting car), it may just be the water circulating I suppose ?

There is an electronic coolant pump on the 1.0 EcoBoost (unlike most engines). 

But it shouldn't be running just by switching the ignition on.  Something has gone wrong there, though that's probably not your biggest concern at the moment.

1 hour ago, TomsFocus said:

There is an electronic coolant pump on the 1.0 EcoBoost (unlike most engines). 

But it shouldn't be running just by switching the ignition on.  Something has gone wrong there, though that's probably not your biggest concern at the moment.

ah okay that makes sense, I will try to check it after this problem is sorted hopefully. 

Thank you for your help.

I have managed to perform a BCM self test which came back as fine.

I am just trying to remove the old starter and having trouble in removing the 10mm Bolt that sits underneath.

I tried a heat gun, a spanner, socket wrench and my dewalt drill but may now have to either buy an impact wrench or get it towed to my local Garage which im trying to avoid.

Im not sure which imact wrench to go for yet but will have a look around, if anyone has any recommendations then please feel free to share.

Thanks all and I will keep you all updated.

If the bolt head is in good condition, why not just use some penetrating fluid, a decent quality socket and a breaker bar (or use the double spanner technique).

 

 

In case you don't know this, Don't use 12-point sockets, you'll run the risk of rounding the bolt off. Instead, invest in a set of 6-sided impact sockets.

yes thank you for all your advice I really appreciate it.

I recharged my dewalt drill and learned about the highesr torque settings and managed to get it off.

I bench tested the Starter Motor and it is working fine without any problems so im back to square one.

Anymore suggestions as I checked all fuses, relays, done a Can bus test, checked the obd codes and now checked the starter.

Will I have to send the ecu off to be tested or may there be another thing to check first ?

Thanks again for all of your help and support with this I really appreciate it.

When testing a Starter off the car it often spins and looks ok because it has no Load to try to turn and is freewheeling so to speak, so a failing one can still turn sometimes.

When it was on the car if you connected Positive of your Voltmeter to the to the Small Terminal on the Starter and the Negative to Earth and got someone to try to start, did you get 12 Volts on the Meter?.

28 minutes ago, wali110 said:

I recharged my dewalt drill and learned about the highesr torque settings and managed to get it off

That must be some drill to remove a nut/bolt that didn't respond to spanners.

The reason why it failed to run whilist on the car is because I couldn't get bigger Leads onto the ignition terminal so used a smaller cable. Having used the bigger cable when bench testing it fired it up straight away.

I am now trying to remove the ECU to sent off to get tested but not able to get the Leads off due to some security cage covering the connections.

Does anyone know if there is any easier way of getting it removed other than using a Grinder which I saw being used in a Video to remove it ?

6 minutes ago, wali110 said:

The reason why it failed to run whilist on the car is because I couldn't get bigger Leads onto the ignition terminal so used a smaller cable. Having used the bigger cable when bench testing it fired it up straight away.

I would disagree with that, the Ignition Terminal only takes a small amount of power and if the Cable was very small it would just overheat/flap about/melt the Insulation.

Is this ECU removal guide any use?

 

4 hours ago, Tizer said:

I would disagree with that, the Ignition Terminal only takes a small amount of power and if the Cable was very small it would just overheat/flap about/melt the Insulation.

that's what I tought too, I used one of them small wires with the crocodile clips on and no response but with the bigger lead it worked fine.

2 hours ago, nicam49 said:

Is this ECU removal guide any use?

 

thanks but the protecrive shield is different on mine.

There isn't an easy way to remove the security bolt...it wouldn't be very secure if there was.

I used a Dremel on mine, like a very small grinder.

Is the PCM part of the ECU on that model, on my '02 Mondeo they're a separate item.

3 hours ago, TomsFocus said:

There isn't an easy way to remove the security bolt...it wouldn't be very secure if there was.

I used a Dremel on mine, like a very small grinder.

yes makes sense.

I've just connected a bigger lead to the starter while on the car and the car is now cranking but not starting.

I suppose the ecu is not activating the fuel pump so impossible to bypass the ecu to get it starting ?

theres several security bolts and I may have to remove them all.

Anyone know someone good in repairing ecu's in the west midlands ?

 

 

5 hours ago, wali110 said:

I suppose the ecu is not activating the fuel pump so impossible to bypass the ecu to get it starting ?

If you suspect that there is a Fuel Pump problem then it is easy to check. Open up FORScan, go to Dashboard or Table, look in the PCM for PID's for Fuel Rail Pressure, there may be Actual and Desired ones, plus any other Fuel related PID's press Play and try to start the car again. 

I would also bring up the PID for RPM, if the PCM is not getting a signal that the Engine is turning over then it will never start.

Also because you had a Fault Code for the Throttle, it would be wise to bring up the PID's for Accelerator Pedal and Throttle (different things) and see what FORScan says when you press the Accelerator.

There may be other relevant PID's that you can check, you would need to scroll through then to see if any were relevant. 

Once @Tizer's suggestions are done i.e. you have all the PIDs set up and recorded during cranking and with ignition on, is it worth doing the Easy Start test i.e see if the engine will start with an alternative fuel source.
Then you know it is basically sound, especially if all the PIDs especially fuel pressure (as said) look OK?
Also check there is a spark at the plugs and its strength.

Thanks for all the input.

 

I have managed to do some self tests which all came back as okay.

I do not believe the fuel pump to be at fault but rather the ECU perhaps ?

I am considering in getting the ECU repaired or cloned but have been informed by an ecu company that they do not believe my ecu to be damaged as I am able to read my obd codes.

I am sure that the ecu can still be damaged and cause starting issues even though I am able to read obd codes.

I have managed to get a runaround replacement car for now and advertised the fieata for sale as spares for 1/4 of what I paid for it.

I may still consider sending the ecu off to get repaired or cloned if the car does not sell anytime soon.

Thank you to everyone for all of your help and support in trying to getting it repaired.

Happy New Year 🥳

I had a Crank but no start issue on an 06 Focus.
It turned out to be a wiring fault in the instrument cluster preventing the immobiliser disarming.

The can-bus resistance was ok on a static test but I had to desolder, clean and resolder the board to bring it back to life, noise on the bus maybe.

I am not implying this is your situation but was wondering if Forscan can check the immobililser status  before you crank it over?

 

Is this the point you remember you have AA home-start :)

 

That's interesting, I never knew the Instrument Cluster can prevent the immobilizer from starting.

I am not sure if Forscan would allow me to check the immobilizer, usually a warning mag comes up if it is the immobilizer.

AA already towed me Home from work because of this problem and were not able to find the fault.

An Ecu repair place said my ecu was okay as I am able to read codes from my Obd port, I am not sure how true that is.

Thanks for your suggestions and I will keep you updated.