Can anyone shed any light on how to adjust the exhaust cam timing?  When the belts on it turns fine but trying turn it by hand it it’s to tight to turn

By hand do you mean with a spanner on the camshaft or actually with your hand

Regarding your last post about the camshafts lining up.

I have never done one personally but I believe you must first line up the crankshaft gear to the diesel pump until the 2 rectangle timing marks align. At which point your 2 cam pins should be close to going in. Without the belt on you can use a spanner to turn the camshafts into the correct position

58 minutes ago, Braadd said:

By hand do you mean with a spanner on the camshaft or actually with your hand

Yes i need to line up the exhaust cam, belt is of, How do u turn it to line it up as no belt on, tried with me hand but it’s not happening, with the belt on it all turns good 

2.0 EcoBlue camshafts don't have a nut for a spanner.

There is a special tool to rotate them.

If you don't have the tool then you'll just have to work out a bodge to rotate them.

1 hour ago, TomsFocus said:

2.0 EcoBlue camshafts don't have a nut for a spanner.

There is a special tool to rotate them.

If you don't have the tool then you'll just have to work out a bodge to rotate them.

So u just rotate the cams then? some people are saying keep rotate crank? Then some are saying use grips on the cams to turn or use a tool

52 minutes ago, custom driver said:

So u just rotate the cams then? some people are saying keep rotate crank? Then some are saying use grips on the cams to turn or use a tool

Yes the cams just rotate.

If the crank is locked at TDC then the cams won't rotate fully because the valves will hit pistons and lock the engine.  If you set the crank to half way then the cams can rotate fully.

I'm not sure how you'd attach grips cam pulley without risking damage but that would be one way to do it.  The proper tool for these just goes over the top and has a nut in the centre, so they can then be turned like old-style cams using a spanner on that nut.

38 minutes ago, TomsFocus said:

Yes the cams just rotate.

If the crank is locked at TDC then the cams won't rotate fully because the valves will hit pistons and lock the engine.  If you set the crank to half way then the cams can rotate fully.

I'm not sure how you'd attach grips cam pulley without risking damage but that would be one way to do it.  The proper tool for these just goes over the top and has a nut in the centre, so they can then be turned like old-style cams using a spanner on that nut.

when u say set the crank to half way what and how u mean? Its lined up on marks crank locking tool in place, so i cant turn the cams then with the crank locked so do i turn the crank half of turn then turn the cams?

Just now, custom driver said:

when u say set the crank to half way what and how u mean? Its lined up on marks crank locking tool in place, so i cant turn the cams then with the crank locked so do i turn the crank half of turn then turn the cams?

When you lock the crank in place, two of the pistons are right at the top.  That means the valves physically can't open.  So the cams won't turn far.

Best option now is to unlock the crank and rotate that half a turn.  That way all pistons will be half way up, leaving space for all valves to open.  Then rotate the cams and lock them in place.  Then rotate the crank back to the lock position after the cams are locked in place.

4 minutes ago, TomsFocus said:

When you lock the crank in place, two of the pistons are right at the top.  That means the valves physically can't open.  So the cams won't turn far.

Best option now is to unlock the crank and rotate that half a turn.  That way all pistons will be half way up, leaving space for all valves to open.  Then rotate the cams and lock them in place.  Then rotate the crank back to the lock position after the cams are locked in place.

Thanks mate will try that now, is it ok to turn the crank backwards to half of turn after lining the cams up? 

1 minute ago, custom driver said:

Thanks mate will try that now, is it ok to turn the crank backwards to half of turn after lining the cams up? 

Yes.  But as it's exactly half, you can just turn it forward by half a turn anyway, pistons will end up in the same place turning half back or forwards.

2 minutes ago, TomsFocus said:

Yes.  But as it's exactly half, you can just turn it forward by half a turn anyway, pistons will end up in the same place turning half back or forwards.

Okay gonna give it a try now, so once i've allowed space the cams should just move by hands? 

6 minutes ago, custom driver said:

Thanks mate will try that now, is it ok to turn the crank backwards to half of turn after lining the cams up? 

Wait!  It's not half a turn on the crank, it's quarter turn.  My mistake, sorry.

Half a turn would mean the other two pistons were at the top, so no help for this.

 

Honestly I don't think you'll turn the cams by hand without some sort of tool.  The valve springs are very strong.

3 minutes ago, TomsFocus said:

Wait!  It's not half a turn on the crank, it's quarter turn.  My mistake, sorry.

Half a turn would mean the other two pistons were at the top, so no help for this.

 

Honestly I don't think you'll turn the cams by hand without some sort of tool.  The valve springs are very strong.

Will i need to unpin the other cam whats lined up or should that be ok 

Just now, custom driver said:

Will i need to unpin the other cam whats lined up or should that be ok 

As the cams were already close in this case it's probably ok.

You'll soon know if the pistons hit any open valves when you rotate the crank.  (Won't do any damage by hand, just turn it back the other way if that does happen.)

2 minutes ago, TomsFocus said:

As the cams were already close in this case it's probably ok.

You'll soon know if the pistons hit any open valves when you rotate the crank.  (Won't do any damage by hand, just turn it back the other way if that does happen.)

 

16 minutes ago, custom driver said:

That is further out than I remembered.  Some valves are probably open but I don't know which and I don't know how far.

It doesn't really matter though.  The crank should be always be easy to turn, so if that gets hard then you know pistons are touching a valve.  The cams will always be more difficult to turn due to the valve springs, so bit more difficult to tell on cams.

2 minutes ago, TomsFocus said:

That is further out than I remembered.  Some valves are probably open but I don't know which and I don't know how far.

It doesn't really matter though.  The crank should be always be easy to turn, so if that gets hard then you know pistons are touching a valve.  The cams will always be more difficult to turn due to the valve springs, so bit more difficult to tell on cams.

 

4 minutes ago, TomsFocus said:

That is further out than I remembered.  Some valves are probably open but I don't know which and I don't know how far.

It doesn't really matter though.  The crank should be always be easy to turn, so if that gets hard then you know pistons are touching a valve.  The cams will always be more difficult to turn due to the valve springs, so bit more difficult to tell on cams.

Ive managed do turn the cam and lock it in place but soon as you pull the pin it springs back out away from the hoke?? 

Just now, custom driver said:

Ive managed do turn the cam and lock it in place but soon as you pull the pin it springs back out away from the hoke?? 

hole

2 minutes ago, custom driver said:

Ive managed do turn the cam and lock it in place but soon as you pull the pin it springs back out away from the hoke?? 

Yeah that's fine.  It just means a valve is slightly open so there's valve spring pressure on it when locked.

Once you lock the crank and put the belt on, turn over by hand and you should see that it all rotates without locking and then all lines up again after two rotations.  (You will still feel the springs jerking it forward so don't expect it to be totally smooth).

3 minutes ago, TomsFocus said:

Yeah that's fine.  It just means a valve is slightly open so there's valve spring pressure on it when locked.

Once you lock the crank and put the belt on, turn over by hand and you should see that it all rotates without locking and then all lines up again after two rotations.  (You will still feel the springs jerking it forward so don't expect it to be totally smooth).

But the other cam sits there with out pin in, but soon as u remove the pin in exhaust it springs a tooth back or forwards? Ill take your word for it ill put belt on then and see if it lines up  

1 hour ago, TomsFocus said:

Yeah that's fine.  It just means a valve is slightly open so there's valve spring pressure on it when locked.

Once you lock the crank and put the belt on, turn over by hand and you should see that it all rotates without locking and then all lines up again after two rotations.  (You will still feel the springs jerking it forward so don't expect it to be totally smooth).

Timed it all up put belt on released tensioner went for turn it to see if everything lines up it gets 2 turns and wont turn no more 🤦🤦🤦😡 

Just now, custom driver said:

Timed it all up put belt on released tensioner went for turn it to see if everything lines up it gets 2 turns and wont turn no more 🤦🤦🤦😡 

 

1 hour ago, TomsFocus said:

Yeah that's fine.  It just means a valve is slightly open so there's valve spring pressure on it when locked.

Once you lock the crank and put the belt on, turn over by hand and you should see that it all rotates without locking and then all lines up again after two rotations.  (You will still feel the springs jerking it forward so don't expect it to be totally smooth).

 

15 minutes ago, custom driver said:

Timed it all up put belt on released tensioner went for turn it to see if everything lines up it gets 2 turns and wont turn no more 🤦🤦🤦😡 

Is it all lined up again now?  Just won't turn any further?

I can't see how that would even be possible but will keep thinking.