19 minutes ago, TomsFocus said:

If that is true then it's specific to this engine.  I haven't heard of that before.

The camshaft pulleys are exactly double the size of the crankshaft pulley.  So it takes two crank rotations to bring the cams one full circle. 

13 turns must be about lining up the extra gear on these (with white marks).  But it would have to be an even number to make cam & crank sync.  So must be 12 or 14 rather than 13.  I'll do some research on this myself now.  Maybe @iantt can tell us what we're missing here.

 

 

basically what i did with the belt on is rotate crank so everything lines up and everything did apart from exhaust cam, so pinned inlet cam locked crank, took belt of and rotated exhaust cam but was sitting around a tooth or 2 out, put pressure on exhaust cam (had to hold it until put pin in) And that was everything timed! Put some marks on so i can do the 14 turns, turned crank and when turning crank it turned once then after locked! The minute u lock everything up again and pull the pins, Inlet timing hole stays but exhaust timing hole jumps backwards 

2 minutes ago, custom driver said:

basically what i did with the belt on is rotate crank so everything lines up and everything did apart from exhaust cam, so pinned inlet cam locked crank, took belt of and rotated exhaust cam but was sitting around a tooth or 2 out, put pressure on exhaust cam (had to hold it until put pin in) And that was everything timed! Put some marks on so i can do the 14 turns, turned crank and when turning crank it turned once then after locked! The minute u lock everything up again and pull the pins, Inlet timing hole stays but exhaust timing hole jumps backwards 

Yeah, I've read that several times but couldn't work out what had happened.  I have done belts on other engines where the cam only stays in time when the pin is in place, so didn't think any of it. 

However, knowing what we know now, that could mean one or more cam lobes have spun on the exhaust cam.  The pressure coming back through it is one of the valve springs pushing against it.

So if that is the case, then you might get away with just a new cam case now.  I still don't really believe that the cam lobes are weaker than the rocker arms but may be proven wrong on that.

10 minutes ago, TomsFocus said:

Yeah, I've read that several times but couldn't work out what had happened.  I have done belts on other engines where the cam only stays in time when the pin is in place, so didn't think any of it. 

However, knowing what we know now, that could mean one or more cam lobes have spun on the exhaust cam.  The pressure coming back through it is one of the valve springs pushing against it.

So if that is the case, then you might get away with just a new cam case now.  I still don't really believe that the cam lobes are weaker than the rocker arms but may be proven wrong on that.

Gonna do what u said mate and see if they line up with each other first and go from there, would u throw 16 rockers on just replace that side and make everything new? 

43 minutes ago, custom driver said:

would u throw 16 rockers on just replace that side and make everything new? 

That should give you peace of mind if you can afford to do it.

2 hours ago, TomsFocus said:

That should give you peace of mind if you can afford to do it.

Rite so had a look over rockers, rockers all seem to be the same hight, done few pics and video see what you think 

3 hours ago, TomsFocus said:

That should give you peace of mind if you can afford to do it.

Tried to attach the videos but wont let me for some reason 

2 minutes ago, custom driver said:

Tried to attach the videos but wont let me for some reason 

Videos can't be uploaded directly.  Would need to upload to YouTube and then link over here.

If you say they're all the same height then I trust your judgement on that.

Just now, TomsFocus said:

Videos can't be uploaded directly.  Would need to upload to YouTube and then link over here.

If you say they're all the same height then I trust your judgement on that.

Not got youtube mate, its the cam lobes i wanted show u and a cam noise i wanted point out, can i fire them over to an email? 

3 hours ago, TomsFocus said:

Videos can't be uploaded directly.  Would need to upload to YouTube and then link over here.

If you say they're all the same height then I trust your judgement on that.

Think i've found the issue mate, timed mine up and a lad has sent me a pic of a brand new 1 I've put them in same position and look at the area i've circled  

11 hours ago, custom driver said:

Think i've found the issue mate, timed mine up and a lad has sent me a pic of a brand new 1 I've put them in same position and look at the area i've circled  

That does look like one issue, but isn't the one pushing the pulley back as those lobes are still up inside the case I think?

If you're going to test it with the cams in time then you're looking for at least one lobe slightly downwards, outside of the cam case.  That will be the one getting pushed back by the valve spring when timed up.

2 hours ago, TomsFocus said:

That does look like one issue, but isn't the one pushing the pulley back as those lobes are still up inside the case I think?

If you're going to test it with the cams in time then you're looking for at least one lobe slightly downwards, outside of the cam case.  That will be the one getting pushed back by the valve spring when timed up.

When u say downwards what u mean outside cam case? also there is slight play when you wiggle the cam 

17 minutes ago, custom driver said:

When u say downwards what u mean outside cam case? also there is slight play when you wiggle the cam 

Think of the cam case being fitted.  The cam lobes press on top of the rockers only when they are pointing downwards.  That would be outside of the case, instead of being up inside the closed part of the case.

Can you take a picture across the whole case from the pulley end exactly the same direction as the new one?  We can see the lobes should be facing Right Right Up Up Down Down Left Left from the pulley with the timing pin in.  Seeing the whole thing should make it easier to work out whether any have spun.

4 minutes ago, TomsFocus said:

Think of the cam case being fitted.  The cam lobes press on top of the rockers only when they are pointing downwards.  That would be outside of the case, instead of being up inside the closed part of the case.

Can you take a picture across the whole case from the pulley end exactly the same direction as the new one?  We can see the lobes should be facing Right Right Up Up Down Down Left Left from the pulley with the timing pin in.  Seeing the whole thing should make it easier to work out whether any have spun.

I pinned the timing holes and was just looking at the lobes and there was couple facing different angles then the new 1, where can i purchase them from? don't fancy paying £700 if i'm honest hahah also what oil do i ned to pre oil them 

21 minutes ago, custom driver said:

I pinned the timing holes and was just looking at the lobes and there was couple facing different angles then the new 1, where can i purchase them from? don't fancy paying £700 if i'm honest hahah also what oil do i ned to pre oil them 

That sounds fairly conclusive then!

You won't find a brand new cam case for less than £500 tbh.  There are a few options on ebay.  Personally I'd find an ebay store where all parts could be bought together - cam case, cam case gasket, vac pump, vac pump gasket, etc, then send them a message and ask if they'll do any discount for buying multiple items.

Part number should be 2207275 - but that might have been superseded as I don't have access to the newest catalogues.

Looks like the genuine Ford part is under £500 right now with a discount code.  (Send them a message to confirm it fits with your reg).

Genuine Ford Camshaft Housing Carrier & Cam Kit 2.0 EcoBlue 2016-Onwards 2648544 | eBay UK

 

Any engine assembly lube should be fine to rebuild, so whatever you can get quickest is probably best.  Couple of options here but you might be able to pick some up locally.

Permatex 81950 Ultra Slick Engine Build Assembly Lube Bearing Cam 4fl oz 118ml | eBay UK

Lucas Oil Engine Assembly Lube A1560 118ml - High-Performance Rebuild Lubricant 49807101527 | eBay UK

 

19 minutes ago, TomsFocus said:

That sounds fairly conclusive then!

You won't find a brand new cam case for less than £500 tbh.  There are a few options on ebay.  Personally I'd find an ebay store where all parts could be bought together - cam case, cam case gasket, vac pump, vac pump gasket, etc, then send them a message and ask if they'll do any discount for buying multiple items.

Part number should be 2207275 - but that might have been superseded as I don't have access to the newest catalogues.

Looks like the genuine Ford part is under £500 right now with a discount code.  (Send them a message to confirm it fits with your reg).

Genuine Ford Camshaft Housing Carrier & Cam Kit 2.0 EcoBlue 2016-Onwards 2648544 | eBay UK

 

Any engine assembly lube should be fine to rebuild, so whatever you can get quickest is probably best.  Couple of options here but you might be able to pick some up locally.

Permatex 81950 Ultra Slick Engine Build Assembly Lube Bearing Cam 4fl oz 118ml | eBay UK

Lucas Oil Engine Assembly Lube A1560 118ml - High-Performance Rebuild Lubricant 49807101527 | eBay UK

 

Thanks for that, there was an issue with my cam case the 1 i have does not have injector top rubber seals but the ones i looked at do, when i given my reg to ford or someone they given me a digram and it says that i need top seals but i was running mine years with out its strange 

15 minutes ago, custom driver said:

Thanks for that, there was an issue with my cam case the 1 i have does not have injector top rubber seals but the ones i looked at do, when i given my reg to ford or someone they given me a digram and it says that i need top seals but i was running mine years with out its strange 

That's probably why the part number is different now.  They do upgrade parts through production, then only sell the newer version after that.

They might have had problems with injectors getting seized if damp was getting down the side of them on early models.  That's the only reason I can think of for adding a rubber seal there.

1 minute ago, TomsFocus said:

That's probably why the part number is different now.  They do upgrade parts through production, then only sell the newer version after that.

They might have had problems with injectors getting seized if damp was getting down the side of them on early models.  That's the only reason I can think of for adding a rubber seal there.

Been looking on ebay and there is some cheap ones but don't say ford on side not sure if to risk it, cheap 1 for reason but buy cheap sometimes means wont last long 

28 minutes ago, TomsFocus said:

That's probably why the part number is different now.  They do upgrade parts through production, then only sell the newer version after that.

They might have had problems with injectors getting seized if damp was getting down the side of them on early models.  That's the only reason I can think of for adding a rubber seal there.

Do i need cam lube aswell as assembly lube? or can i use permatex everywhere

22 minutes ago, custom driver said:

Do i need cam lube aswell as assembly lube? or can i use permatex everywhere

Should be fine to use that on the cams and any other metal to metal moving parts.

(But usual caveat, feel free to double check with a proper engine builder).

 

Also just remembered you'll need some sealant for the belt cover if you don't already have that.

2 minutes ago, TomsFocus said:

Should be fine to use that on the cams and any other metal to metal moving parts.

(But usual caveat, feel free to double check with a proper engine builder).

 

Also just remembered you'll need some sealant for the belt cover if you don't already have that.

Ordered the cam case £479 from lyme engine builders, then ordered the gasket, i’ve got the sealant for the timing cover got everything else apart from rockers just trying find most best prices, also you know the lubicating holes what do i put in them normal engine oil or lube

36 minutes ago, TomsFocus said:

Should be fine to use that on the cams and any other metal to metal moving parts.

(But usual caveat, feel free to double check with a proper engine builder).

 

Also just remembered you'll need some sealant for the belt cover if you don't already have that.

I’m trying to find the rockers but i dunno who to trust, Chinese some of the places are any recommendations 

39 minutes ago, custom driver said:

Ordered the cam case £479 from lyme engine builders, then ordered the gasket, i’ve got the sealant for the timing cover got everything else apart from rockers just trying find most best prices, also you know the lubicating holes what do i put in them normal engine oil or lube

I wouldn't put anything inside oil holes, oil will come through those quickly enough.  Just engine lube on any metal parts that will rub together.

 

9 minutes ago, custom driver said:

I’m trying to find the rockers but i dunno who to trust, Chinese some of the places are any recommendations 

I don't have any recommendations from experience unfortunately.

I would trust TPUK to supply decent parts so would expect these to be good but they aren't cheap.

https://ebay.us/m/d2wvMV

1 minute ago, TomsFocus said:

I wouldn't put anything inside oil holes, oil will come through those quickly enough.  Just engine lube on any metal parts that will rub together.

 

I don't have any recommendations from experience unfortunately.

I would trust TPUK to supply decent parts so would expect these to be good but they aren't cheap.

https://ebay.us/m/d2wvMV

would u trust Chinese ones?

Just now, custom driver said:

would u trust Chinese ones?

Generally no.

Unless they are being supplied by a reliable engine shop.

11 minutes ago, TomsFocus said:

Generally no.

Unless they are being supplied by a reliable engine shop.

 

11 minutes ago, TomsFocus said:

Generally no.

Unless they are being supplied by a reliable engine shop.

i’ve just rang that place u mentioned they are oem not genuine